Artist's survey
Captain Packrat
Although I have done art on my computer, I've never really done any serious
work on paper. I've decided to try my paw at it, but I have no idea what
kind of art materials to use (I know there is an FAQ on art supplies, but
it wasn't much help.) I would like to ask you artists out there, both the
professional and amateur, to answer my survey for me. (The "Why?" questions
are optional)
1. What kind of pencils do you use? (i.e. 2B, HB, 4H, etc.)
(Why?)
2. What kind of technical pens do you use?
(Why?)
3. What kind of markers do you use?
(Why?)
4. What kind of colored pencils do you use?
(Why?)
5. Do you ever use crayons?
If so, what kind?
(Why?)
6. What other media do you use?
(Why?)
7. What do you prefer to use to color a picture?
(Why?)
8. What kind/brand of paper do you use?
(Why?)
9. Are there any brands or media that I should avoid?
(Why?)
Thank you for your time.
Captain Packrat
http://www.sandiego.sisna.com/captpakrat/
"Would ya' like to take a survey? Do you eat beans? Do you watch movies
staring George Wendt? Do you eat beans while watching George Wendt?...."
O. .O
==V==
Flinthoof Ponypal
Oooh! A survey! Neaters! Lessee here...got my #2 mouse all sharpened
up and ready to fill in these little circles for the answers.
>1. What kind of pencils do you use? (i.e. 2B, HB, 4H, etc.)
> (Why?)
Assuming we are talking about leaving a picture in greyscale pencils
only, I'd start out with a 2B and go from there. Then we'll go in and pick off
the details with 4H pencil and eraser shield. Shading is done with a 6B and a
rolled paper burnishing stub to help smooth out the textures. Then it's back
to the harder pencils again.
Normally now though I use a photoblue (non-reproducing blue pencil)
pencil to lay out my lines, then go back with ink. If it's pencil, I'll grab
my mechanical pencil with HB leads in it. If you use a mechanical pencil,
spend a few extra dollars and get something that really feels comfy in your
hand. For me that means a fat barrel and soft grip.
>2. What kind of technical pens do you use?
> (Why?)
Anything that leaves a permanent fine line without fading. I've used
high-end pens, but the cleaning and clogging of them is too much of a hassle
for me, especially if I'm at a con. I use the Micron Pigma new series (with
the purple lettering) that have very nice tips that won't mush down. Nice
heavy ink that doesn't fade in sunlight or erasing.
>
>3. What kind of markers do you use?
> (Why?)
>
Whatever it takes to get the job done. Prismacolor Scholar series are
among my favorites, since they are cheap and have very long brush tips. The
heavy barreled Prismas are too expensive for my blood right now, although they
offer a large number of colors. I'll check a marker at the store for three
factors before I buy it. 1) Tips offered. 2) How well it blends with other
colors or does it streak on itself? 3) Odor. Don't like to get dizzy while
using 'em.
>4. What kind of colored pencils do you use?
> (Why?)
>
Prismacolors exclusively. I've tried Brunzwheel (or whatever it's
called) and they are too soft and I break the leads easily. Prismacolors are
wax based and can be blended fairly sucessfully. Use the white as a blender.
And buy a good electric (battery) pencil sharpener.
>5. Do you ever use crayons?
> If so, what kind?
> (Why?)
Conte crayons or wax? I know Mel White uses conte crayons for quick
backgrounds with great success. It's something I may have to try myself
someday.
>
>6. What other media do you use?
> (Why?)
>
Whiteout. Believe it or not, I use it for highlights on hair and such
after the color or inks are down. Very useful, and I get it in the white out
pen dispensors. Keep an extra handy.
>7. What do you prefer to use to color a picture?
> (Why?)
>
Markers with colored pencil highlights and detailing. Quick splash of
color using the markers and pencils for shading and highlights.
>8. What kind/brand of paper do you use?
> (Why?)
Smooth plate finish. Plate finish because pencils work out nicer and
don't tear up the surface. Also less likely to blead with markers.
>9. Are there any brands or media that I should avoid?
> (Why?)
Not really. Every media has its own quirks and advantages, it's only
up to the artist to determine how to get the best results for the picture they
are attempting to render.
Now where is my mint?????
Captain Packrat
Flinthoof Ponypal wrote:
> Now where is my mint?????
(The big mouse tosses the horsie a mint truffle)
O. .O
==V==
Conrad Wong
In article <3184F5...@sisna.com>,
Captain Packrat <captp...@sisna.com> wrote:
>1. What kind of pencils do you use? (i.e. 2B, HB, 4H, etc.)
0.5mm mechanical pencil, HB lead. Get one that doesn't rattle. For me, it's
a lot more convenient and handy than a pencil that has to be sharpened, but
if you want to do pencil shading, you should use the regular wood pencils yes.
>2. What kind of technical pens do you use?
I have a set of Koh-i-noor rapidographs, but I've started using them less
and less (except for the 1 and 2 sizes which I still use for straight lines,
and the 00 size which I use for fine and constant-width lines), in favor of
a brush. (Windsor-Newton 1)
>3. What kind of markers do you use?
Design 2. An 84-pen set. They blend really well, especially with Prismacolor
pencils; I can use markers for tones first, then pencil-texture on top, and
then blend pencils with markers over that too, to smooth things out. But
even an 84-pen set just doesn't have all the ranges of colors that I would
like.
>4. What kind of colored pencils do you use?
Prismacolor. As above, they blend well. I would never color with solid
pencils alone again after markers, but the key to doing so is to burnish them
into the page, to create a solid color instead of grainy shading. (grainy
shading has its place but is less impressive and interesting) Also, these
pencils can be blended slightly using rubbing alcohol. (Design 2 markers are
alcohol based)
>5. Do you ever use crayons?
> If so, what kind?
Definitely not. Do you want people to say your art looks like crayon
scribbling... and to be right? };)
>6. What other media do you use?
Started toying with acrylics. Difficult medium to master, but offers a much
better color range. If only I could get the acrylics to stop drying up in
just a few hours on my palette...
>7. What do you prefer to use to color a picture?
Right now I'm best with drawing a rough draft in pencil, using a lightbox to
copy it onto another piece of bristol in color pencil outlines, then coloring
it with markers and pencils.
>8. What kind/brand of paper do you use?
Strathmore bristol, 2ply, acid-free. Smooth surface. The rough one bleeds
ink more.
>9. Are there any brands or media that I should avoid?
Stay away from discount bristol. It's usually not acid-free. Your picture
will yellow in a few years.
-- Lynx
--
| __|\ | Conrad "Lynx" Wong | |
| ._| _ : | 101 First Street, suite 554 | If you're happy and you |
| ( ' | Los Altos Hills, CA 94022 | know it, pet the cat! |
| -' ;". |-----------------------------------| If you're happy and you |
| ; "' ; | upstart feline miscreant at large | know it, then your cat |
| , | LY Go B Y++ L++ C++++ T++ A-- H+ | will really show it... |
| *purrrrrr* | S++ V+ F- Q+ PP+ B PA+ PL+++ | -- Brenda (*purr purr*) |
R'ykandar Korra'ti
In article <3184F5...@sisna.com> Captain Packrat <captp...@sisna.com> writes:
>1. What kind of pencils do you use? (i.e. 2B, HB, 4H, etc.) (Why?)
(Note that the quoted examples refer to a degree of hardness/darkness.)
Mechanical: Berol RapiDesign 0.3mm. I like that one because of the
rubberised casing which I find easy to hold and easier on the fingers than
some of the other ones I've played with. I like the 0.3mm better than the
0.5mm solely so my grounding pencils stay nice and light. (This helps
balance the B type lead I use, for lighter impact upon the paper.)
Wood/drawing: I used to use A.W. Faber Castells, but I've lately
been using... oh damn... Lumographs. There's supposed to be another word
in front of Lumograph, but I can't remember what it is. Anyway, the Castells
(green, common) have a habit of carrying impurities in their graphite, or
at least, graphite regions of unstable hardness. The Lumographs (blue,
also not rare) cost about the same and seem to behave better.
>2. What kind of technical pens do you use? (Why?)
Micron Pigmas. Only disposable technical pen I'll use, because it's the
only one I know of (so far) which uses pigment rather than dye.
>3. What kind of markers do you use? (Why?)
If it's something disposable, I'll use "whatever." I've even used Kinko
highlighters. :-) If it's something more permanent... I'll try to use another
colouring agent, since markers are typically dye and hence not lightfast.
>4. What kind of colored pencils do you use? (Why?)
Berol Prismacolours, almost exlusively; I just like the way their
medium feels on paper. Others I've tried have typically felt scratchier.
>5. Do you ever use crayons?
Nope.
>6. What other media do you use?
I've had fun with oil pastels, but keep in mind those _are_ oil-based
and don't dry for a Very Long Time. Lovely colours, though.
Someone suggests using white-out for white highlights; I don't trust
that, and use Winsor and Newton Acrylic instead. It's actually _cheaper_
once you factor in all the drying-out problems one tends to have with
white-out. (Okay, all the drying-out problems _I_ tend to have with white-
out.)
>7. What do you prefer to use to color a picture?
Depends upon the piece.
>8. What kind/brand of paper do you use?
Whoo. That's another open question. Use whatever feels nice and works
well with the medium in question. And read the Art Materials FAQ to figure
out what kinds of paper to avoid. :-)
>9. Are there any brands or media that I should avoid?
"Student grade" is typically - though not always! - a synonym for
"crap." Be forewarned.
Markers generally are fugitive. Read the Art Materials FAQ for info
on permanence. (I've got to get version 1.21 done...!)
If you won't read the FAQ, at least read this: while Pilot Razor Point
pens are _lovely_ writing tools (I have one in front of me right now), DON'T
USE THEM FOR ART. Trust me on this one.
- R'ykandar.
--
R'ykandar Korra'ti | REFRACTIONS nr. 3: In Production
ra...@netcom.com | "STUPID, STUPID RAT CREATURES!"
Bev Clark/Steve Gallacci
>work on paper. I've decided to try my paw at it, but I have no idea what
>kind of art materials to use (I know there is an FAQ on art supplies, but
>it wasn't much help.) I would like to ask you artists out there, both the
>professional and amateur, to answer my survey for me. (The "Why?" questions
>are optional)
>
> (Why?)
good darks without a lot of pressure and can still be erased, the p205
because it is very durable.
>
>2. What kind of technical pens do you use?
> (Why?)
of spare parts and such for them.
>
>3. What kind of markers do you use?
> (Why?)
markers for some color work. They don't attack xerographic toner if I'm
colring a copy.
>4. What kind of colored pencils do you use?
> (Why?)
>5. Do you ever use crayons?
> If so, what kind?
> (Why?)
See 4.
>
>6. What other media do you use?
> (Why?)
Watercolor, acrylic, and oils for color or to paint an image, and often use
airbrush to get the color on the work.
>
>7. What do you prefer to use to color a picture?
> (Why?)
Watercolor is the most convieniant, but has some stability problems.
Acrylic is good too, but requires differnt techniques.
Oil make for some very nice effects and can be worked over time, but can
be frustrating in that it doesn't dry quicky when I need it to.
>8. What kind/brand of paper do you use?
> (Why?)
Cold press illustration board for most things. Solid, stable, doesn't
fuzz up too quickly if worked or erased, has a good "tooth". Simple high
rag typing or copy paper for sketches and odds and ends. It works.
Tygger
Captain Packrat (captp...@sisna.com) wrote:
: Although I have done art on my computer, I've never really done any serious
: work on paper. I've decided to try my paw at it, but I have no idea what
: kind of art materials to use (I know there is an FAQ on art supplies, but
: it wasn't much help.) I would like to ask you artists out there, both the
: professional and amateur, to answer my survey for me. (The "Why?" questions
: are optional)
*waves* Hey. Well, I'm kind of between amateur and pro...kinda semi-pro
in a sorta way. But I'll give it a shot.
: 1. What kind of pencils do you use? (i.e. 2B, HB, 4H, etc.)
: (Why?)
2H. I have a rather heavy hand and when I used darker, softer leads
there were darkish marks after I erased. I switched from HB up to 3H,
but that was a bit too light but settled on the 2H. It erases fairly
clean, IMHO, and leaves no darkish marks.
: 2. What kind of technical pens do you use?
: (Why?)
*heehees* Weeelll, after running the gamut from Microns to Rapidoliners
to Itoya Finepoint Systems to Rapidoliners, I'm right back to Micron's
again. Microns are a good pen, the only problem was the fading after I
erased, BUT, I've finally found the reason why. I have a tendency to use
a lot of lines in my construction and when I erased some of the ink came
up with the lead. Now that I've been using less lines and having a
lighter hand, the fading has reduced *noticeably*.
: 3. What kind of markers do you use?
: (Why?)
Design 2 and Trias. Design 2's I went to after using Prismacolour for a
few years. The pens didn't die as fast as Prismas. Hell, one time I had
brought a brand new still-in-the-shrinkwrap set only to have 90% of the
*&%$%^&(*-ing pens DEAD in the stand! It was after this that I started
to use Design 2's exclusively. One thing I *really* like about these
pens is the colour arrangement. In the large set, each colour has 5
tones: pale, light, regular, semi dark, dark. It's really easy to use in
shading. Prismas don't have that. The one thing to absolutely
*remember* with Design 2's is to not, repeat NOT, store them on on their
ends. This causes all the ink to soak into one nib over the other. I
have my set on its side. With the holders Design 2's come in, this is
fairly easy to do.
I use Trias, some colours anyway, for the largish areas I'm likely to
kill a marker on, like sky, ground, water. These have 3 nibs, extra
fine, fine, broad, and the NICE thing is this pen is *refillable*. I
have a black Tria that I use in my comic work and it's been real nice.
I'm on page 26 and before I got the Tria, I'd already killed off 4
Staedtler marsgraphic 3000's on the black areas.
: 4. What kind of colored pencils do you use?
: (Why?)
Prismacolour, though I'm considering changing to another brand but I want
to use up the set I have first. I started to use them only because my
then art coach, Terrie Smith, used them as well. They're nice, come in
many colours, but the problem that I've been running into is that the
coloured lead will break as I sharpen it. Sometimes they break deep in
the pencil and you don't know about it until you sharpen it.
: 5. Do you ever use crayons?
: If so, what kind?
: (Why?)
Nope.
: 6. What other media do you use?
: (Why?)
Sometimes I'll use a silver metallic pen on jewelry for the nice metallic
look.
: 7. What do you prefer to use to color a picture?
: (Why?)
Design 2 marker with colour pencil highlights. Marker is easier and
faster for me. Also, I've tendonitis which flares up badly when I use
colour pencil exclusively, so I stick to markers. When I do use only
coloured pencil, it takes me several days as opposed to the scant hours
with marker.
: 8. What kind/brand of paper do you use?
: (Why?)
Strathmore bristolboard, 100 pound, smooth surface. Again, it was the
brand my coach used and I just followed suit. I prefer the smooth
surface over the rough. There's less tooth to the board to catch the pen
tip.
: 9. Are there any brands or media that I should avoid?
: (Why?)
Yah, Sharpie pens, they go green. Razorpoints do as well. Expresso pens
go brown.
: Thank you for your time.
Yer welcome. Hope it helps.
-- Tygger
--
****************************************************************
tyg...@netcom.com
*****************************************************************
*sound of picking up rockets, then a full counter*
"No more rockets?! Grrr...now I've got to go kill something!"
Tygger on a late night Doom session going through Thy Flesh Consumed
Captain Packrat
R'ykandar Korra'ti wrote:
> If you won't read the FAQ
I did read the FAQ. I just wanted to know what other artists were using.
Captain Packrat
http://www.sandiego.sisna.com/captpakrat/
"Where do Trekkies go to work out? The He's Dead Gym!"
O. .O
==V==
MDLight
I'm in a posting mood so here goes! 8)
: 1. What kind of pencils do you use? (i.e. 2B, HB, 4H, etc.)
: (Why?)
A simple Pentel .05 mechanical pencil. I've tried all kinds of fancy art
pencils and such but I'm most comfortable (and happier) with the Pentel.
: 2. What kind of technical pens do you use?
: (Why?)
Rapidoliners!! (the ones with the replaceable cartridge) I HATE
Rapidographs! I always got the ink all over me when I refilled them (Art
school made me use them!! Argh!)
: 3. What kind of markers do you use?
: (Why?)
Prismacolor, because I'm comfortable with them, they don't give me a
headache (Fumes!) and I think they have the best colors.
: 4. What kind of colored pencils do you use?
: (Why?)
Prismacolor again, because I'm comfortable with them and they match up
colorwise with the markers.
: 5. Do you ever use crayons?
: If so, what kind?
: (Why?)
No.
: 6. What other media do you use?
: (Why?)
Not much else at the moment. I tried various painting mediums but always
made a mess of it, usually all over me! Painting takes time to master and
that's something I don't have much of these days.
: 7. What do you prefer to use to color a picture?
: (Why?)
Ink and markers.
: 8. What kind/brand of paper do you use?
: (Why?)
For final art pieces I use Canson Bristol, vellum surface, acid free. I
used to use Strathmore but found that the Canson has less bleed problems
when I marker heavily. I also use a Strathmore Recycled Sketch pad and
Canson Layout/Marker paper for sketches and rough ideas (every furry piece
I've ever done is drawn out in pencil in one of these two types of paper
pads.)
: 9. Are there any brands or media that I should avoid?
: (Why?)
Any paper that isn't acid free.
: Thank you for your time.
Welcome! 8)
Forever Drawing,
Michele Light
Richard J. Bartrop
On Mon, 29 Apr 1996, Captain Packrat wrote:
> Although I have done art on my computer, I've never really done any serious
> work on paper. I've decided to try my paw at it, but I have no idea what
> kind of art materials to use (I know there is an FAQ on art supplies, but
> it wasn't much help.) I would like to ask you artists out there, both the
> professional and amateur, to answer my survey for me. (The "Why?" questions
> are optional)
>
> 1. What kind of pencils do you use? (i.e. 2B, HB, 4H, etc.)
> (Why?)
I use a mechanical pencil, because I don't have to keep sharpenning it.
For sketching, I use HB leads, and for comic work, I use non-reproducible
blue leads, because it spares me the time it takes to erase the page, and
your inking is more visible.
> 2. What kind of technical pens do you use?
> (Why?)
I like the Staedler Mars pens, because they're refillable. The problem
with the prefilled ones is that you're at the mercy of whatever the
company decides to put in them. I use Rotring Artist Colour, because it
gives a very black line that that hardly ever bleeds. For inking, I like
to use a brush for things like fur and clothing. Lately, I've been
experimenting with dip pens. They give you the expressive quality of a
brush with a little more control.
> 3. What kind of markers do you use?
> (Why?)
I tend to avoid markers,because of the expense invloved in keeping a
decent colour palette, and because they bleed.
> 4. What kind of colored pencils do you use?
> (Why?)
I use Steadler Aqurelles, because they are water soluble. With a wet
brush, you can create interesting wash effects. However, I only use them
for detail work. Colouring large areas with a pencil is like scrubbing a
floor with a toothbrush
>
> 6. What other media do you use?
> (Why?)
I prefer to use a brush. For drawing fur, it can't be beat. For texture
offects, I sometimes use a paper towel or sponge dipped in ink, or an
airbrush at low pressure.
For three-dimensional work, I like to use Milliput epoxy putty. It works
like caly, and when it hardens, its strong enough to stand up to vigorous
carving and sanding.
> 7. What do you prefer to use to color a picture?
> (Why?)
I like Rotring Artist Colour, because its brilliant, yet permanent (I've
seen a sign done with Rotring sit in a south-facing store window for
several years, yet still looks good>. The colours are designed to be
mixed, so you can have a nearly infinite palette from a few basic
colours. I like to apply them with an airbrush (another plus to Rotring
is that it doesn't stick to frisket film like some other media), though
I'll ue a brush for detail work.
> 8. What kind/brand of paper do you use?
> (Why?) >
For comic art, I use 2-ply Strathmore Bristol, plate finish. For
airbrush work, I use illustration board, usually something with ome
tooth, so that I can use pencils.
9. Are there any brands or media that I should avoid? > (Why?)
Don't use markers, learn to use a brush. If you're going to make work
that is going to be around for a while, avoid Dr. Martin's watercolour.
I've had one piece done in Dr. Martin's literally vanish .
Above all, invest in quality media. It's hard to do good work if you
have to fight the material.
> Thank you for your time.
>
No problem
Richard Bartrop
writer/artist, "Zaibatsu Tears"
Grey on FurryMUCK
Captain Packrat
Tygger wrote:
>
> Captain Packrat (captp...@sisna.com) wrote:
>
> : 3. What kind of markers do you use?
> : (Why?)
>
> Design 2 and Trias. Design 2's I went to after using Prismacolour for a
> few years. The pens didn't die as fast as Prismas. Hell, one time I had
> brought a brand new still-in-the-shrinkwrap set only to have 90% of the
> *&%$%^&(*-ing pens DEAD in the stand! It was after this that I started
> to use Design 2's exclusively. One thing I *really* like about these
> pens is the colour arrangement. In the large set, each colour has 5
> tones: pale, light, regular, semi dark, dark. It's really easy to use in
> shading. Prismas don't have that. The one thing to absolutely
> *remember* with Design 2's is to not, repeat NOT, store them on on their
> ends. This causes all the ink to soak into one nib over the other. I
> have my set on its side. With the holders Design 2's come in, this is
> fairly easy to do.
(Captain scratches his head and looks rather confused)
I decided to buy a small (24) set of the Design 2 markers, and the little
do-hicky holder looks like it was made to stand the pens on end. (Not only
that, but thats the way they were in the box!) Although the individual pens
in the store are in a big rack that holds them horizontally, the little booklet
that came with the set shows them vertically!
Thanks for the info about the Prismacolors. I almost bought a set because
I'd heard so much about "Prismacolors". I didn't realize they made markers
AND pencils. You saved me a LOT of money.
Captain Packrat
http://www.sandiego.sisna.com/captpakrat/
I'm not ignorant. I just don't know what I'm doing! :)
O. .O
==V==
Jim Pigtain
In <3184F5...@sisna.com> Captain Packrat <captp...@sisna.com>
writes:
>
>Although I have done art on my computer, I've never really done any
serious
>work on paper. I've decided to try my paw at it, but I have no idea
what
>kind of art materials to use (I know there is an FAQ on art supplies,
but
>it wasn't much help.) I would like to ask you artists out there, both
the
>professional and amateur, to answer my survey for me. (The "Why?"
questions
>are optional)
>
>1. What kind of pencils do you use? (i.e. 2B, HB, 4H, etc.)
> (Why?)
I sketch with a 2H, usually, if I'm going to complete the piece in ink.
If it's going to be a finished pencil piece, I use usually a 2h, 2b and
an ebony black.
>2. What kind of technical pens do you use?
> (Why?)
I use Microns, 'cause they're cheap and easy. ;)
>3. What kind of markers do you use?
> (Why?)
Pantone
>4. What kind of colored pencils do you use?
> (Why?)
Prismacolor
>5. Do you ever use crayons?
> If so, what kind?
> (Why?)
Nope
>
>6. What other media do you use?
> (Why?)
I prefer using watercolor, but also do oils and acrylics, it all
depends on what kind of a look I'm going for.
>7. What do you prefer to use to color a picture?
> (Why?)
Watercolor, usually.
>
>8. What kind/brand of paper do you use?
> (Why?)
I use cold press illustration board. I prefer Cresent, but havn't
found it since I moved out to CA.
>9. Are there any brands or media that I should avoid?
> (Why?)
It's all what you prefer to use.
>
>Thank you for your time.
>
>
>Captain Packrat
>http://www.sandiego.sisna.com/captpakrat/
>
>"Would ya' like to take a survey? Do you eat beans? Do you watch
movies
>staring George Wendt? Do you eat beans while watching George
Wendt?...."
>
>O. .O
>==V==
--
\\\\Jim Pigtain\\\\or...@ix.netcom.com\\\\Vandringar on FM&FT\\\\\\\\
\Give me a view into the world of dreams, only then will I be happy\
\Anglagard\
Pelzig
Greets. Ed "Pelzig" Dyer, III entering into the survey. And without
further delay, away we go!
1. What kind of pencils do you use?
** Of late, I've been using a General Pencil 2B "Semi-Hex, Drawing"
(almost sounds military <grin>). I don't like it as much as my
Ticonderoga 1ES "Ex-Soft" [ $1.25 for four of them ]. The 1ES leaves a
much softer line on my paper while the 2B left a much heavier line (and
impressions in the paper). But then, I tend to have a heavy hand. The
1ES erases alot easier too and doesn't leave little segments of lead on
the paper. Avoid 9H pencils. Suckers are like X-acto knives. Make good
darts too. :) For erasers, I use Pentel Hi-Polymers. Pedigree used to
make a similar one as well. The red and green ones tend to be abusive
to the paper and would streak it as well. To sharpen my pencils, I use
a officially licensed NFL football pencilsharpener.
2. What kind of technical pens do you use?
** Ooooooh...here is where I get the feeling the fireworks will start.
I use three pens, none of them technical at all. My general use, main
inking pen is the Pilot Razor Point (I can hear the hisses and boos now
<grin>). In the Art Materials FAQ, this pen is banned as the pen NOT to
use for art. Reasons sited are it's lack of permanence and it's
tendency to turn green (brown?) after a short time. For me, I've inked
with this pen for nearly four years. I have yet to have any picture
I've done turn green or brown. The Razor Point is a smooth pen which
lays down a good line and is a joy to wield. But the ink will run if it
is exposed to direct moisture. Perhaps it is the fact I do art ment for
photographic reproduction...my originals find themselves socked away in
a portfolio case once they are finished...so sunlight isn't a factor.
Maybe the paper I use. I dunno. But a great many artists shun the Pilot
Razor Point. I don't and buy five at a time. I use one up every six to
eight illos. My heavy hand tends to break down the head and it
fragments, sometimes leaving you with little itty-bitty parallel lines
to your main one. For fine detailing and other times I need a thin
line, I use a Pentel Microball. At one time, this pen would maintain
it's black even over white-out. But recent versions don't. Phooey. For
alot of black, I use the Sanford 20/20 pen (used by folks who have
trouble seeing). When new, this pen tends to flake and sends tiny ink
flecks about the paper. Best to break it in on a scratch sheet then use
it. But it is fast and lays down a dark black. All these pens can be
had at your drug store, price not exceeding $1.80.
3. What kind of markers do you use?
** Since I rarely do color illustrations, I really don't use markers.
However, I have, at times, used gray shade markers. My father had his
old set of various gray shades, the pens made by Fluoro Graphic. Open
these suckers up, you'd better do it in a well, WELL ventilated room.
Heavy duty olfactory warfare. Eventually, I used them up and bought the
Eberhard Faber Design2 art marker. The two shades I almost always used
where Gray 2 and Gray 4. Be advised that they don't always repro well.
Sometimes they do and it lends a little tone to the pic, other times it
gives a mottled appearence. I've pretty much replaced these markers
with Zip-a-Tone.
4. What kind of colored pencils do you use?
** Its been years since I last used pencils to color any illustration
with. But when I was doing it, I used Pedigree brand.
5. Do you ever use crayons?
** Easy one. Sure haven't.
6. What other media do you use?
** At one time, I messed around with water colors, even cel painting.
Tough going and so I settled on the tried-and-true pen&ink.
7. What do you prefer to use to color a picture?
** Humm...the pencils were nice as long as you could maintain a even
pressure. If not, it got ugly. Bill Fortier though used a interesting
technique when he was doing his sketches. He'd wet his finger and rub
the pencil (I've only seen him do this with lead pencils), causing it
to difuse and thin out, making the area have a gray tone to it. He'd
even do it so as to create highlights. I've messed around with it but
can't match him. :)
8. What kind/brand of paper do you use?
** My paper is by Duro, a medium surface sketch paper. Size is 12" X
18" as I almost always work in a 10" X 15" area. It comes in a spiral
bound, total sheet count of 32. I'm sure it isn't the best paper
around, but it works very well with my pens of choice.
9. Are there any brands or media that I should avoid?
** Erk...hummmm...avoid the "multi-use" liquid paper. Doesn't work
worth a hoot. Brands I use Ticonderoga Ultra! pen and the Pentel
Fine-Point. I've used other pens but sadly, the were junk and got
canned long ago. The FAQ is good for the "what to avoids."
Thats my arsenal!
TCASF,
Ed "Pelzig" Dyer
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Ed "Pelzig" Dyer: Furry/Anime Illustrator, Furzine Editor, and Small
Press Publisher of Knechtschaft Studio. Portfolios, commissions, and
fur fanzines Viktoria's Secret and Furlined for the fur fan! Check out
our homepage at
http://tau-ceti.isc-br.com/furry-stuff/pelzig/pelzig.html (hugs, Kal!)
BILL FORTIER
In article <4m6j38$5...@ux.accesscom.net>, pel...@mailhost.accesscom.net
(Pelzig) writes:
>7. What do you prefer to use to color a picture?
>** Humm...the pencils were nice as long as you could maintain a even
>pressure. If not, it got ugly. Bill Fortier though used a interesting
>technique when he was doing his sketches. He'd wet his finger and rub
NYET! No wet! Ick!
>the pencil (I've only seen him do this with lead pencils), causing it
>to difuse and thin out, making the area have a gray tone to it. He'd
>even do it so as to create highlights.
Eraser make highlights.
Mark Freid
On Mon, 29 Apr 1996 18:36:45 GMT, ly...@netcom.com (Conrad Wong) wrote:
>In article <3184F5...@sisna.com>,
>Captain Packrat <captp...@sisna.com> wrote:
>>1. What kind of pencils do you use? (i.e. 2B, HB, 4H, etc.)
Any good quality HB Mechanical Pencil
and HB or 2B Pentalic Woodless pencils.
>>2. What kind of technical pens do you use?
Micron Pigmas & Staedtler pigment liners. Most recently the
Staedtlers, because I like the color and they don't bend as easily.
However, some people have found that the Staetlers frey.
>>3. What kind of markers do you use?
>
Design 2. I used to use Tombos but they dont tend to last long.
The designs are alcohol based, (i think). the Tombos are watercolor.
>
>>4. What kind of colored pencils do you use?
>
Prismacolor
>
>>5. Do you ever use crayons?
>> If so, what kind?
Crayons?
>>6. What other media do you use?
>
In non-furry artwork, I love using charcoal. Don't ask why, I just
like the look of it. Though, I use the wood-based (brittle) ones, as
opposed to the hard block ones.
I also do much of my inking with brushes. This is a pretty recent
thing, but I like them. only the small ones, though.
>
>>7. What do you prefer to use to color a picture?
I make a high-quality print, then it depends. mostly color pencils,
now. they are a bit easier to work with than markers.
>>8. What kind/brand of paper do you use?
>
Acid-free Strathmore bristol for finished drawings
Acid-free Strathmore 400 series (60 lb) for sketching
>>9. Are there any brands or media that I should avoid?
>
Standard office supply fare. don't use office black markers. (sharpies
/ Marksalot) and don't use non-acid free paper. If you are going to
store original drawings, use the higher-quality sleeves. some will
cause the ink to come off after a few years (like card holders in your
wallet) Also, I would reccommend waterproof ink.
-Mark
=============================================
Mark Freid ("Canuss") Wolf, Cartoonist, Loony
=============================================
Web: http://www.av.qnet.com/~canuss
Email: can...@qnet.com
wo...@worldnet.att.net
"Canuss" on GEnie's Beastie Board & FurryMUCK!
==============================================
Scott Whitmore
Hiya! firstly, My name isn't Scott Whitmore, It's Genesis Cook. I
just use Scott's account now for all my internetting :> You may have
heard of me, you may not have, I've been published here and there, and
I thought I'd give the survey a go....
Captain Packrat (captp...@sisna.com) wrote:
: 1. What kind of pencils do you use? (i.e. 2B, HB, 4H, etc.)
: (Why?)
I use two brands of pencils. When I start a picture I use non photo blue
for the sketchy bits, I'm not the cleanest penciler in the world, so I use
a seperate color on the rougher bits of my work. After the preliminary
penciling is done with I then go to actual graphite. I've found there's
not too much difference between one type of graphite and another, but I
usually use mechanical pencils, because they're always sharp. When I've
finished my roughs with non photo blue, I use the pencil to clean it up
a bit and try and figure out what I want it to look like when I ink it.
: 2. What kind of technical pens do you use?
: (Why?)
Once again, usually a tec pen is a tec pen is a tec pen... I use the
staedtler marsmagno tec pens just because they're usually the least
expensive in the market. They're supposed to be disposable... but I've
found out how to channel ink inside and refill them. It's a tad messy
but cheaper than buying a new pen.
I do not ink with Tec pens tho for the most part. I've found that the
Micron pigma pens and the Staedtler marsgraphic pigma pens to be very
nice. You can get a lot more line weight variation out of them.
But don't think that you MUST ink with a pigma pen, or a brush, or
a tec pen. It jes' ain't so. You should fiddle around in as many
inking mediums as you see fit. Markers, tec pens, pigmas, brushes,
ballpoint, felt tip, fountain pens... maybe even twigs dipped in ink
(Hey... I know of folks that do!). Play around, there's no standard
to inking...
: 3. What kind of markers do you use?
: (Why?)
Prismacolor makes some nice markers... but they're just so bloody
expensive! Also unless you have an extremely steady hand, there's
no way you can color a picture and get a completely solid layer
of color with a marker. It's a good idea to try watercolor markers
if you can get your hands on them tho. There's no "special" brand
of marker that colors better than any other brand... just try and make
sure you get something a bit better than what you find in the school
supply section of your groccery store.. and never ever buy scented
markers ;>
: 4. What kind of colored pencils do you use?
: (Why?)
Prismacolor pencils. I also use watercolor colored pencils as well.
Prismacolor pencils offer a nice solid layer of color when you use
them. And watercolor pencils add another fun touch to the medium.
: 5. Do you ever use crayons?
: If so, what kind?
: (Why?)
No.. although I believe Taral Wayne uses them for his coloring. He's
quite good at it as well...
: 6. What other media do you use?
: (Why?)
Lessee... colored inks, watercolors... I make cels on occasion as well.
I think it'd good to stretch your legs in different mediums, that way you're
more prone to find what you like. I mentioned colored pencils above, but
I use them a bit differently than some. My teachers, Ashtoreth and
Zjonni Perchauski taught me how to use turpentine on colored pencils, the
turp breaks down the wax and makes the picture look more like a watercolor
painting. The coloring is a great deal more smooth that way.
: 7. What do you prefer to use to color a picture?
: (Why?)
That's a tie between watercolors and colored pencil/turpentine. An example
of my watercolor art can be found on avatar under the name of "mouse.jpg".
An example of my colored pencil/turpentine art can also be found there
under "seahorse.jpg".
I like these mediums because they're extremely smooth, allowing for very
delicate variations in light and color, even texture.
: 8. What kind/brand of paper do you use?
: (Why?)
I use bristol is it's a watercolor picture, or just a big important project
that I want to look nice. But I'll often raid office Depot and buy a block
of cardstock paper. There's a brand called "wausau papers" that's pretty
reasonable. It comes in smooth or textured... not as thick as bristol, but
still pretty good for doodly projects.
: 9. Are there any brands or media that I should avoid?
: (Why?)
Pensticks.. there's a brand of pen called a penstick. Avoid like the plague,
they bleed and turn green in six months. be wary of thin paper, it's
prone to rip or fold when you're trying to erase.... avoid the pink erasers,
they don't work all that well. Try and get a nice "plastic" eraser. they're
these white little thingymabobs.
Hope I've been able ta help!
-Genesis Eve Cook
R'ykandar Korra'ti
In article <urielDq...@netcom.com> ur...@netcom.com (Scott Whitmore) writes:
>Hiya! firstly, My name isn't Scott Whitmore, It's Genesis Cook. ...
>avoid the pink erasers, they don't work all that well. Try and get a nice
>"plastic" eraser. they're these white little thingymabobs.
company. First thing to pull me away from my beloved kneeded erasers. (I
now use both, depending upon the circumstances.)
R'ykandar Korra'ti
Ex Pelzig:
>** Ooooooh...here is where I get the feeling the fireworks will start.
>My general use, main inking pen is the Pilot Razor Point (I can hear the
>hisses and boos now <grin>).
That's not a hiss you hear, that's a wince.
>In the Art Materials FAQ, this pen is banned as the pen NOT to
>use for art. Reasons sited are it's lack of permanence and it's
>tendency to turn green (brown?) after a short time.
Well, they'll fade. And I have samples to demonstrate this. ("Short"
meaning "<5-8 years," not "3-4 months... tho' I have seen that, too, with
other pens...)
>I have yet to have any picture I've done turn green or brown.
It'll just fade first. As it fades, it'll shift sometimes. But
mostly they'll fade.
>The Razor Point is a smooth pen which
>lays down a good line and is a joy to wield.
I fully agree - that's why I warn against it _specifically_. The
damn things are seductive - they feel nice, they have nice ink flow,
etc. There are other pens that are _much_ worse from a fading standpoint,
but people don't use them because they're not fun to draw with. These
_are_, which is the problem... :-}
>My originals find themselves socked away in
>a portfolio case once they are finished...so sunlight isn't a factor.
<goes over to filing cabinet and pulls out 4-year-old notes taken
at work>
I have some old notes I took at a technical meeting. Like always, I
used pilot razor points. (I have one right beside my keyboard.) I just
threw out some even older ones (four years plus a few months). The wording
is no longer black. It's grey. It'll get more grey over time.
Please at least consider switching if you care about this... it isn't
an abstract situation for me, I've seen it... Micron Pigmas don't cost much
more, even. ($1.55 at the local bookstore...)
>However, I have, at times, used gray shade markers. My father had his
>old set of various gray shades, the pens made by Fluoro Graphic. Open
>these suckers up, you'd better do it in a well, WELL ventilated room.
>Heavy duty olfactory warfare. Eventually, I used them up and bought the
>Eberhard Faber Design2 art marker.
Whoo. Probably Xylene. People don't use it much anymore, 'cause it
causes cancer. (You're safe enough if you do indeed follow the "well-
ventilated" rule... or just don't use 'em much...)
>The two shades I almost always used
>where Gray 2 and Gray 4. Be advised that they don't always repro well.
This is the case at any time one attempts to repro grays with a non-
screened and non-full-tone duplication system - like most photocopiers.
(Some B&W photocopiers have screening capability; most colour copiers will
do a lovely job of reproducing greyscale.)
>I've pretty much replaced these markers with Zip-a-Tone.
Note that there are multiple grades of Zip-a-Tone; some are copier-
safe, others aren't, requiring higher resolution for proper reproduction
than most B&W copiers can deliver.
Chris Whalen
> 1. What kind of pencils do you use? (i.e. 2B, HB, 4H, etc.)
The F pencils. They're about right for me, neither too hard nor too
soft. You'll find F right between the H and B pencils.
> 2. What kind of technical pens do you use?
Refillable Rapidographs with nib sizes .25-.50, Pigma Micron pens,
fountain pens, and brushes. Depends on what kinds of lines I want to make
in the drawing.
> 3. What kind of markers do you use?
Unless Pigmas count as a kind of marker, I don't think I use any...
> 4. What kind of colored pencils do you use?
I've got some Spectracolor pencils that I've used occasionally. I'll be
using them soon to color a drawing of two lovebirds, one a dutch blue and
the other a peachface.
> 5. Do you ever use crayons?
> If so, what kind?
Crayons? They're a bit too waxy and thick for delicate coloring, aren't they?
> 6. What other media do you use?
Lots of Pelican White-out...Koh-I-Noor pen cleaning kit, and Higgins Pen
Cleaner. The cleaning kit has a handy bulb for getting stubborn
Rapidograph pen nibs started.
> 7. What do you prefer to use to color a picture?
Watercolor, coloring pencils. I don't color too often. I also did some
oils, acrylics, and airbrushing a long time ago. Again, it depends on the
drawing. I've also used fabric paints, to paint a jacket.
> 8. What kind/brand of paper do you use?
Acid-free smooth bristol board -- it's strong enough to be handled and
photocopied. It takes inks and white-outs fairly well. I store my art in
acid-free tracing paper cut and sewed on one end for a pad-like storage
device.
> 9. Are there any brands or media that I should avoid?
Paper that is not acid-free.
I had this one pen, an Alvin Tech-Liner Drawing Pen, that turned a drawing
green within two months, and stained several pages front and back green
too. Talk about toxic ink. It's a wonder that it was sold in a art
supply store.
It's best to not try strange pens -- only use india ink or pens that are
guaranteed to not fade or change color, or are at least approved by fellow
artists.
Regards,
Chris Whalen
Roz Gibson
>1. What kind of pencils do you use? (i.e. 2B, HB, 4H, etc.)
I usually use a mechanical pencil with 2B lead. Sometimes
use a regualr 4B or 6B pencil.
> (Why?)
> Mechanical pencil becuz it don't need sharpening.
>2. What kind of technical pens do you use?
Koh-i-noor. 7 point sizes, .25 thru 4.0
> (Why?)
Becuase I was given the set as a Christmas gift, and
have used them ever since.
>
>3. What kind of markers do you use?
Berol Prismacolor
> (Why?)
> It's what everyone else uses. And every art store
carries them.
>4. What kind of colored pencils do you use?
Berol Prismacolor
> (Why?)
Because an EXTREMELY nice fan :) gave me a 96 pencil set.
>
>5. Do you ever use crayons?
nope
> If so, what kind?
> (Why?)
>
>6. What other media do you use?
Sometimes I use airbrush with watercolor or ink dyes. I use
acrylics to do animation-style cels. I use Higgin's Black Magic
ink and Letraset Letratone Sheets for my comics. (They're expensive
as a M*****F**** too)
> (Why?)
I have some experience working with watercolors/ airbrush looks cool/
it's too expensive to self-publish color comics.
>
>7. What do you prefer to use to color a picture?
The above mentioned materials. Usually the markers.
> (Why?)
Because I know how to use them!!! (duh)
>
>8. What kind/brand of paper do you use?
Strathmore Bristol board, usually.
> (Why?)
Because its there.
>
>9. Are there any brands or media that I should avoid?
The markers that cause brain damage if you breathe
them too long.
> (Why?)
> Well, it should be obvious....
MDLight
I wouldn't write off Prismacolor markers so fast. I've never had one die
before it's time, and believe me I've killed off many of them in the past
few years! Try to purchase them for a store that had a nice turnover rate
so you don't buy old markers, I've seen stores that are trying to move
really ancient supplies. Maybe this is why the markers in question went
bad.
My experience with Design markers on the other hand has been anything but
smooth. 8P I worked with them for almost a year before I found the
Prismas.
Try purchasing one of each marker and see for yourself which works best
for you. Everyone has different needs.
Forever Drawing,
Michele Light
Scott Whitmore
R'ykandar Korra'ti (ra...@netcom.com) wrote:
: The brand I've found most common is Staedtler Mars Plastic. German
: company. First thing to pull me away from my beloved kneeded erasers. (I
: now use both, depending upon the circumstances.)
: - R'ykandar.
My roomie has a kneaded eraser... I sculpted it into a bunny. Hee!
-Genesis Eve Cook
Christopher V. Berdoz
>>1. What kind of pencils do you use? (i.e. 2B, HB, 4H, etc.)
>> (Why?)
Cheap mechanical pencils, 5 for $1. You can't beat 'em. Why?
They don't get dull and so line quality is consistent and
highly legible. Plus, you've got a whole lot of them, so if
you lose one while drawing (you know, you're sitting there
drawing, you put down your pencil, do something, and it
disappears into nothingness when you tur back to get it),
you can just pick up another and go back to Dimension-X to get
the one you just lost later.
But go ahead and use a pencil if you want.
For normal work, any pencil will do. The 2B, HB, etc. I
generally think is for finished complex pencil illustrations,
where you can combine different gradations for a marbly look.
>>2. What kind of technical pens do you use?
>> (Why?)
Micron Pigmas, just because. Oh yeah, I use a cheap Pentech
DOTS pen, sometimes.
>>3. What kind of markers do you use?
>> (Why?)
Do not use markers. Markers are horrible. If you want to fill
something in, use a brush or brush pen. There are markers you
can use that do not show streaks, are refillable, and show up
wonderfully on paper, but they are expensive, and I do not know
what they are called. JW Kennedy has a large set of these, and
they look absolutely gorgeous. JW, where are you?
>>4. What kind of colored pencils do you use?
>> (Why?)
Prismacolor, because one day my illustration teacher said "go
out and get colored pencils for this class" and I went to the art
store and this was the only brand available, and they only had
one package of them left.
I recommend getting the cheap-o Prang brand white and black color
pencils, because they are softer, and that helps me personally.
>>5. Do you ever use crayons?
>> If so, what kind?
No, but there are some really expensive crayons at specialty
stores that look cool that you might want to look into.
>>6. What other media do you use?
>> (Why?)
A brush. Loew-Cornell, # somethin' (I forgot) and black ink.
Don't want to dip a brush? Do what I do, shake the bottle, tap
it (to pop bubbles inside that might splatter onto you upon
opening), take off the lid, and dip the brush into that (if the
lid has the absorbent stuff lining it's insides). It's a lot
easier than dipping. Brushes rule - I don't care what anyone
says, they are awesome! I use the brush exclusively now and
my latest illos have come out quickly and beautifully.
Might use a brushpen every now and then, mostly for filling.
I find that Marvy 1100 don't fray badly and are excellent to
use even after they run out of ink, just dip it in new ink. The
Sakura sumi-brush is great for filling in large areas, and the
fat end also responds well to dipping when it runs out of ink.
Marvys are cheap as all, too.
When I did commissions at CFE, I was using a Sakura something,
I forget. They fray easily but have a lot of ink. Those still
haven't run out. Sakura Micro 02? I dunno, something like that.
>>7. What do you prefer to use to color a picture?
>> (Why?)
-Colored pencils, but you have to lightly smear white pastel on
your surface. In fact, I suggest doing this for most dry
media. OR you can use a soft white color pencil. This is
generally just if you don't want that stipply, rough look that
colored pencils have.
-Oil Pastels, too. Nice texture, and you can scrape it off if
you make a mistake.
-Color Pastels, if you are impatient and do not mind a mess.
Nice, easy-to-make color gradations.
I experiment with them all, and I'm going to learn how to paint
on animation cels soon.
One thing you can do with most Prismacolors is take a brush and
normal water to them and get a watercolory look. Found this
out from a library book.
>>8. What kind/brand of paper do you use?
>> (Why?)
Anything archival. Sketch pads, no preference for brand,
whatever's cheapest and long-lasting.
It also depends on what you are doing. Rougher textures are
better for coloring, smooth textures for inking. 11x17 Bristol board
is good for inking, expecially if you want to do work for comic
books. The front of the package will tell you what the paper
is best suited for. It's easy: don't buy watercolor paper for
inking projects, typing paper for acrylic paint - see?
>>9. Are there any brands or media that I should avoid?
>> (Why?)
-Penstix. They turn green within a few days, then fade away
into brownness.
-ANY brushes sold in packages or 2 or more. Buy them
individually, ask the art store personnel for help for which
media you want to use. *Trust me on this*
-Anything that says "laundry pen", "acid based", "toxic", or
"smells like gasoline" on the package. Some color pastels are
actually toxic (no joke, I have a set that says so on the box),
but if used properly, they won't damage your brain too badly.
CB
--
*-------------------------------------------------------*
|Chris Berdoz, furry artist | Commissions available. Ask|
|cde...@cabell.vcu.edu | for info on free samples. |
*-------------------------------------------------------*
| My catalog now available! Get your copy today! |
*-------------------------------------------------------*
Michael J. Rider
In article <urielDq...@netcom.com>, ur...@netcom.com (Scott Whitmore)
wrote:
Mine always ended up looking like snakes. =)
--
____________________________ |\ /|
/ Michael J. Rider / :o o:
/ AKA: Richard #926 /________oOOo_==( ^ )==_oOOo__________
/ jag...@warwick.net / ' /
/ Jason_Jaguar on FurryMUCK / Hey, what's going on up here? /
---------------------------- /
/ Brain> Pinky, are you pondering what I'm pondering? /
/ Pinky> Uh, I think so, Brain, but where will we find a /
/ duck and a hose at this hour? /
-------------------------------------------------------------
bob...@phish.nether.net
: : The brand I've found most common is Staedtler Mars Plastic. German
: : company. First thing to pull me away from my beloved kneeded erasers. (I
: : now use both, depending upon the circumstances.)
: : - R'ykandar.
: My roomie has a kneaded eraser... I sculpted it into a bunny. Hee!
: -Genesis Eve Cook
That's evil, Gen.*smile* I like it.
-Bobcat
Richard Chandler
While not an artist, I thought I might mention a few of the things I use.
I always find I have to do some touch up to the copies people send me for
Gallery. Some people have copiers that can't carry areas of solid black,
for example, leaving you with snowy areas. Or even worse, they fold their
copies and the toner flecks off.
For the large areas, I use a simple Marks-A-Lot. It's very black, but it
bleeds. However, it doesn't dissolve the toner, and because I'm so used
to it, I can get very close to the edge of a black area without screwing
it up. You'd be amazed at how small an area I can hit with that big flat
chisel point. Not everyone would be willing to take a big fat marker to a
Terrie Smith pic, but I can. :-)
For really tight areas, like re-creating cracked lines, a fine point
Uniball works, but you have to REALLY be careful because the ink is thin.
Which brings me to my next tool....
Pentel, the manufacturers of the Pure Evil Incarnate Pen (aka the Sharpie)
make a very nifty white-out pen that is like a 2.0 mm tech pen. I prefer
the oblong shaped model. It gives you so much more control than a brush.
Some caution is needed because it reacts with certain toners, requiring a
second coat. I'd be in heaven if they've make one with the water-based
white out for copies. Be sure to use scratch paper to clear the point
frequently.
Finally, I'm often called upon to take a peice and cut it out in order to
center it, or just to leave off a mass of copier artifacts that would take
forever to white out. When sticking it to another sheet, I use 3M Spray
Mount. This is the permanent artist's mount adhesive (And there's a dozen
cans in the supply cabinet!). It's a godsend. Of course, you need to be
precise and have a good eye to place things straight. Practice helps.
There was a time when I didn't have access to a copier that would print on
the cover stock, so every Gallery cover was made by painstakingly gluing a
sheet of 8.5 x 11" paper to an equal sized sheet of cardstock with spray
adhesive. Try getting that flat, with no wrinkles and overhangs! Thank
god the print run was only 60-80 back then!
Um, I also use Scotch 217 Black Masking tape, Stanley Bostich heavy duty
staplers (severly modified) and Vice Grip 7R pliers (slightly modified)
for binding Gallery. The 7R pliers are good because they have a section
of the jaw that isn't serrated, so it can crush the staples flat without
marring the paper. The staplers (3) have been cut off of their bases and
mounted in a jig I use to square off and clamp the books. One of these
days I may even make a metal jig using compressed air or something to
operate them. :-)
And then there's the $2 Pakistani straight razor I use to trim the tape.
For some reason ordinary single edge razor blades give me the willies.
--
On the Internet, nobody knows you're a dog... but they can tell right
off the bat if you're an idiot! -- Me
<a href="http://www.teleport.com/~mauser/"> Gallery Web Page </a>
Mail to <mau...@teleport.com> forwarded to <mau...@claris.com>
R'ykandar Korra'ti
>R'ykandar Korra'ti (ra...@netcom.com) wrote:
>: The brand I've found most common is Staedtler Mars Plastic. German
>: company. First thing to pull me away from my beloved kneeded erasers. (I
>: now use both, depending upon the circumstances.)
that was one of the many things I'd sculpt mine into)... probably the dippiest
thing I never made with one was a d3 for a gaming session once... :-)
Mr D P Round
I hope you won't mind if I re-post this. I found it on an archive
somewhere and it had me in stiches. Without further ado how to do
furry art Astoreth's way:
In article <sleeper-03...@141.212.64.127> sle...@engin.umich.edu (Vince Krause) writes:
> Howdy all! My question is mostly aimed at Greywolf, but I would like
>input from all sources.
>
> -How do you draw furries?
My furries are chunky enough to draw with a fork, though you should
use a spoon.
> Okay, that's pretty vague. Let me try...
>
> -What materials (pen/paper/etc) do you use?
I usually carve out the rough sketch with four-inch nails on a sheet
of roofing tin, then when I've got the basic form out, I rub in the
tone with a hunk of anthracite coal. It can be very grating on the
nerves for some, which keeps fanboys from looking over my shoulder as
I draw, and for those like Eric Blumrich, Zjonni, and myself, who
listen to really abrasive music like Einsturzende Neubauten, Laibach,
and the Bee Gees, it obviates the need to wear headphones with loud
music while we draw.
> -What models do you use for furries?
I usually buy a quart tub of cottage cheese (large curd; small curd
gives too much of a polished look and loses the appearance of
spontaneity), and dump it out on a big plate and stare at it for a
half hour or so until I see something in it. For more elaborate pieces
I build an armature out of thin sticks of celery, or for very fine
detail I use bits of crackers. Spoons and forks make excellent pole
arms. Garnish with parsely and radish, serves four.
> -How much and what kind of training have you had?
"Aaaaaarmy training, sir!" ARMY TRAINING SIR!
> -Etc, etc, etc.
I don't know if I can really thoroughly explain what it is to be an
"artist" in the limited space here, but I can tell you about one
groundbreaking, epiphanal experience that I had. I was preparing
myself to draw a piece I did called "Aristheron and Aristrides Sing
70's Gold," and I'd gone down into the Pit to prepare myself
physically and mentally. For three days I ate nothing but bread and
water (oh, and Celentano ravioli and Classico sauce, and some desserts
I'd gotten at the bakery department of the grocery store, and maybe a
little wine, but not *good* wine); I ingested approximately 15cc of
Strontane, an industrial-strength mutagen normally used for causing
cellular disruption in cattle so that the meat looks richer and
tastier, and this was diluted with about 50 SweetTarts. I was strapped
to a table, a chain looped around my penis and scrotum and connected
to the winch of a Briggs & Stratton backhoe, and an oscillating
sprinkler occasionally sprayed me with a 2% solution of generic
topical mutagen, LSD and DMSO, so that every seven seconds I'd get
this brilliant burst of sensation like I was watching "Yellow
Submarine" in 3D. Terence McKenna was supervising the procedure,
wearing a foil-lined raincoat, of course, and he made me listen to the
"Atom Heart" compilation for three hours until my bone structure had
changed enough to give me a noticable muzzle. I was writhing on the
table in a mixture of incredible agony and psychedelic exultation, and
in that very moment that the sensations peaked, Terence leaned over
and he said "Chirp." Just that one word. Chirp. And I don't want to
forget this, I never want to forget this... it hit me, like a shot,
from a diamond, a diamond bullet shot through my forehead... and I
thought, my God, the genius of that, the will... and through my haze
of pain and transmogrification, I opened my now-slitted eyes and said
to him, "Hey buddy, did you just see a real bright light?"
I hope this helps.
> Creative, constructive feedback is hoped for 8-)
>
>Vince Krause
>
> "I don't think we're in Northern Wisconsin any more." Yakko Warner
--Ashtoreth
---
****** David Round - EMail ro...@sees.bangor.ac.uk ******
*****These are my own views, I represent nobody (Well maybe myself)*****
***********I guarantee nothing - Particularly the spelling**************
sola...@eden.com
Captain Packrat <captp...@sisna.com> wrote:
>1. What kind of pencils do you use? (i.e. 2B, HB, 4H, etc.)
Rexel-Cumberlands. Personally, I prefer to use a harder lead (usually 4H
or 6H) when laying down the initial construction lines, because they erase
much more cleanly than soft leads. Then, I use a 2H or a HB to fill out
the details.
>2. What kind of technical pens do you use?
Just a plain old Pilot Explorer finepoint. :)
>3. What kind of markers do you use?
For black lines, I use a Tria Illustrator brushpen. They're pricey, but
worth it - they lay down nice, clean lines, and personally I find their
brushpen a little easier to control than other brushpens because the nib is
a little firmer and doesn't bend as easily.
For color work - Berol Prismacolors, for the moment; I'm sure there's
better ones out there, but I've only just recently gotten into
colored-marker work and I had an opportunity to pick these up cheap. :)
>4. What kind of colored pencils do you use?
Berol Prismacolors, primarily, because they have the widest color selection
of any brand I've found so far. Rexel-Cumberland also makes a nice set,
and I use a few of those since they have some colors that the Prismacolors
don't.
>5. Do you ever use crayons?
> If so, what kind?
Not as such, although I do have a set of Berol Prismacolor "color sticks"
which are vaguely crayon-like but are made of the same material as the
inside of the colored pencils. Useful for coloring large areas quickly,
but unfortunately they have a very limited color selection. (In fact, I'm
not even sure they still sell these; I haven't seen them in a while.)
>6. What other media do you use?
I've done a couple of pieces using acrylics on gessoed masonite that came
out interestingly - after sealing them with a layer of clearcoat, they have
a nice "glazed tile" look to them.
I've messed with oil pastels from time to time... They have their good and
bad points. They lay down a thick, solid coating of color on the paper,
will color over just about anything, and the colors are pretty permanent...
_unfortunately_, they smudge easily, they're hard to "fix" (I've found it
can take up to a half-dozen coatings of fixative), and so far I haven't
found an art shop that sells them individually, rather than in sets...
Colored ink can be used for interesting effects, also, but their
lightfastness is suspect...
>7. What do you prefer to use to color a picture?
I'd have to say I use the colored pencils more than anything else... but
I'm a mixed-media kind of guy; I've been known to combine several different
media in one piece of artwork. (Background painted in colored inks or
markers, with the foreground character in colored pencils or oil pastel,
for instance.)
>8. What kind/brand of paper do you use?
For finished works, it depends on the media... for pencil or black-ink
line-art work, I tend to stick with your basic Strathmore Drawing or Sketch
bond paper. For colored inks, I find Strathmore Watercolor paper works
well - that, and Bristol, also work well for mixed-media drawings involving
"wet" media like that.
>9. Are there any brands or media that I should avoid?
Avoid Parker refillable pens - the ink takes forever to dry, and you're
virtually guaranteed to smudge your drawing.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
"New Year's Eve, 1999...
Earth runs out of time..."
DR. WHO is coming to the FOX network on Tuesday, May 14th, 7PM CDT/MDT, 8PM EDT/PDT
(and also to the BBC, naturally, on May 27th)
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
sola...@eden.com (Gary Akins jr.)
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
P.M.
Well, I prefer to use .5 and .7 mm mechanical pencils for making the
lines of my cartoons. However, I am too in love with bright computer coloring
to use anything but various paint programs for coloring the toons.
This can be frustrating at times though. It seems like my best work is
doodled into my text books where it is all but unscannable ;)
Then I sit down with my nice .5 mm's and can't draw worth a damn.
Ah well. I still get so,me decent final drafts with a little extra effort.
I use tech pens so rarely that I cant recall the brand name! Marsmagna or
something like that. Disposables. I sometimes use Tombow drawing pencils
for when I want a really hard lead that will do fine lines for along time
without need for sharpening. But usually I prefer the mechanical ones.
I use just plain notepad paper, cause I scan all my finished works anyway
so the original paper and the originals themselves I usually just throw away
after transforming the toons into computer art.
Lately, I can make about 60$ a month selling this stuff to furryfans, but
thanks to my dependence on the computer platform will probably never bother
trying to sell at a con. Though I do have anice color printer for hard copies.
In which I use hammermill inkjet paper. Its weird though how original art can
just be massproduced endlessly once it becomes computer art. Maybe this
seems to cheapen it, but the quality is higher than one could do without
transperancies and paints of one's own. Anyway, thats about it. I think the
computer art approach to furry art is best suited to cartoons. Solid colors
work better with them. Anwyay, its up to you what media you wanna use, but if
you are into realistic stuff, I would reccomend sticking to paper and canvas.
Harvey White
ly...@netcom.com (Conrad Wong) wrote:
>In article <3184F5...@sisna.com>,
>Captain Packrat <captp...@sisna.com> wrote:
<snip>
>>6. What other media do you use?
>Started toying with acrylics. Difficult medium to master, but offers a much
>better color range. If only I could get the acrylics to stop drying up in
>just a few hours on my palette...
You know that retarder can be used to make the acrylics dry over a
longer time? Supposedly as long as oil paint.
<snip>
>-- Lynx
>--
>| __|\ | Conrad "Lynx" Wong | |
>| ._| _ : | 101 First Street, suite 554 | If you're happy and you |
>| ( ' | Los Altos Hills, CA 94022 | know it, pet the cat! |
>| -' ;". |-----------------------------------| If you're happy and you |
>| ; "' ; | upstart feline miscreant at large | know it, then your cat |
>| , | LY Go B Y++ L++ C++++ T++ A-- H+ | will really show it... |
>| *purrrrrr* | S++ V+ F- Q+ PP+ B PA+ PL+++ | -- Brenda (*purr purr*) |
Harvey
***
I just read minds,
I don't explain them
***
Tygger
Christopher V. Berdoz (cde...@cabell.vcu.edu) wrote:
: >>3. What kind of markers do you use?
: >> (Why?)
: Do not use markers. Markers are horrible. If you want to fill
: something in, use a brush or brush pen. There are markers you
: can use that do not show streaks, are refillable, and show up
: wonderfully on paper, but they are expensive, and I do not know
: what they are called. JW Kennedy has a large set of these, and
: they look absolutely gorgeous. JW, where are you?
Those sound like Pantone Trias. They have three nibs and are
refillable. I've gotten them for about little over $4 a pen, BUT, I feel
they're worth it.
--Tygger
--
****************************************************************
tyg...@netcom.com
*****************************************************************
"AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA!!!!!!!!"
--Tygger on level 30: Icon Of Sin, Doom II as the computer crashes.
Derek Wildstar
I lost the original poster's e-mail address, but here are my answers:
>1. What kind of pencils do you use? (i.e. 2B, HB, 4H, etc.)
I prefer Staetler/Mars Lumograph pencils, H (for light stuff) and
3B (when I want something darker). I'll _use_ just about anything,
though - making marks on paper with a stick of wood and carbon is
pretty low-tech).
Scotty's Maxim applies here: "The more they overtake the plumbing, the
easier it is to stop up the works!". I've never had a wooden pencil
jam or refuse to feed leads halfway through a project. :-)
> (Why?)
I prefer wooden pencils because you can do a lot more with them
(in terms of shading and effects) than you can with mechanicals
(that generally draw only one kind of line). I also don't mind
keeping a sharpener handy.
I've done a bit of drafting (though it's been a while ago, now), and
my preferences are opposite for technical drawings, where consistent
line weight is very important. Mechanicals pencils are very good
at that, and I prefer them for technical drawing.
>2. What kind of technical pens do you use?
Staetler/Mars MarsMatic700 series, #000 through #2 (.25 through .5).
> (Why?)
These are the pens I learned to use for technical drawing (drafting),
so I've stuck with them for art, because I know how to use them and
how to care for them (and besides, they're better pens than the
Koh-i-Nor Repidographs).
I also use Staetler/Mars disposable technical pens, for when I don't
>3. What kind of markers do you use?
I don't.
> (Why?)
>4. What kind of colored pencils do you use?
Berol Prismacolor
> (Why?)
Because they are a lot of fun to work with, and produce great results.
(They are a little expensive, though).
>5. Do you ever use crayons?
No.
> If so, what kind?
> (Why?)
>6. What other media do you use?
I use brush-pens, both the Micron Pigma kind, and the sumi brush
sticks (I use the nice ones, from Sakura). I've also been
experimenting with Stateler/Mars Aquarel watercolor-pencils.
> (Why?)
I use the brush-pens because inking with a regular brush is a
pain (and given my habit of knocking over things, dangerous too).
The Aquarel colors looked like a nifty toy, so I got the smallest
set to play with; I've been generally pleased with the results.
>7. What do you prefer to use to color a picture?
The Prismacolor pencils.
> (Why?)
Because that's the only color that I'm really comfortable with (and
it's easy, and produces good results).
>8. What kind/brand of paper do you use?
Depending one what I'm doing, I use either Pearl's Bristol Vellum or
Paris Bleedproof paper for Pens.
> (Why?)
I use the Parl-brand bristol because it's not expensive, and has a
nice all-purpose surface that works well with pencil, ink, and the
colored pencils. The Bleedproof paper is great for pen-and-ink work,
but not so good for the Prismacolors, so I se it for things that
will get inked but not colored.
>9. Are there any brands or media that I should avoid?
As you (might) be able to tell, I really like Staetler/Mars brand
products, but that's mainly becuase I was already familiar with
them from drafting work. Also from my technical drawing experience,
I believe in getting top-quality stuff, because in the long run the
cheaper tools are going to be more trouble than the money you saved
is worth.
--- Guy "wildstar" Garnett
wild...@io.com -------------------------------------- Kane on FurryMUCK
Visit my virtual sketchbook and homepage at http://www.io.com/~wildstar/
--------------- Doodler of Furries and Other Fun Stuff -----------------