Bettie Page and the fate of pleasure in America by Margaret Talbot 09-08-1997 in The New Republic
Bettie Page: The Life of a Pin-Up Legend by Karen Essex and James L. Swanson (General Publishing Group, 288 pp., $40)
Poor glutted smirking us. We live in an age when pop culture is our history and history is our flea market. Kitsch never dies; it lacks the gravity to die; it just circles back, with a new price tag and a hopeful air. It turns out that no junk is junky enough to be consigned to the obsolescence for which it was intended--not fake fur or Formica, not Russ Meyer or Ed Wood, not Esquivel or Abba. We do not lament the passing of things that were meant to last; we lament the passing of things that were meant not to last. We refuse to be robbed of a past by a culture of transience. It is our lot, therefore, to be overrun, or to overrun ourselves, with the schlock not only of today, but of two, three, four decades past. Oblivion, it seems, is worse than vulgarity. And so we claim ephemera for posterity. There are technological explanations for this phenomenon, and economic ones, too. The Internet, with its capacity for linking up thousands of otherwise furtive fans and collectors, for bringing everybody and everything in from the periphery to the center, for infinitely replicating shards and shards of trivia, has accelerated the redemption of kitsch. So has the CD, for which it seems that there never was a minor composer or a justly neglected performance or a girl group too obscure or a lounge act too goofy. Consider only the Capitol CD series with such self-consciously retro titles as "Bongo Land," "Ultra- Lounge" and "Bossanovaville," risibly awful music brought proudly and brilliantly back. The shorter the history, the more relentless the recycling. (It was American popular music that invented the concept of "instant gold.") Or consider Nick-at-Nite-type cable TV, with its endless appetite for content as familiar and as soothing as the wallpaper in our childhood bedrooms. But behind these material facts is a sensibility, an attitude toward the past, and toward collecting, that might be described as ironic preservationism. Ironic preservationism differs from its straight counterpart--the world of genealogy and heritage movements and lovingly restored country houses--in that it resurrects objects not for their beauty or their craftsmanship or the lasting superiority of their forms or materials, but for the very inverse of these qualities: their cheesiness, their triviality, their banality, their disposability. It differs, too, from earlier preservationist movements in that the appeal of an object does not lie in the way that time has made it recondite. For the ironic preservationist, mystery holds no attraction. The more crudely legible an artifact, the better. An original poster for Reefer Madness, or Faster, Pussycat, Kill, Kill, is a great find partly because it is so undemanding of the mind or the sensibility, so unashamedly garish, so naked of pretension.
The ironic preservationist is ironic because he is preserving what was made to be forgotten. The danger for such a collector is that he begins to see the past as a congeries of gags, a grab bag of "novelty items" (a term of art, in the world of American kitsch, like the term "collectibles"), a freak show. He believes in regress, but he is not what you would call conservative; he is trying instead to recapture the impermanence of yesteryear. Of course, this is impossible, and so the precious artifacts are merely fetishized. In the tackiness of the B-movies and the third-rate torch songs of the '50s and '60s, he finds innocence. (Nobody in the '50s and '60s did.)
The ironic preservationist is not indifferent to history so much as addled by it. In part his attitude is a rejection of the discontinuities of consumer culture, the swift passing of the latest thing. By honoring all this negligible stuff, he asserts his mastery over the acceleration of the past. The "new and improved" are a joke to him. (He will enjoy them later.) The more fads and entertainments the culture produces, the more stubbornly he clings to those of earlier decades for stability. The usual explanation for historic preservation movements is that, in a throwaway society, people will hunger for something that lasts, for an object made with some care and to some kind of serious accepted aesthetic standard, and intended for some kind of posterity. But what if you determine to make the throwaway itself endure? To make it outlive the use-by date that capitalism stamps in ghostly ink on every pop cultural creation? Now that is a victory! As the British historian Raphael Samuel writes, describing the more mainstream phenomenon of retro-chic, the idea is not to "deceive anyone into a hallucinatory sense of oneness with the past, but on the contrary [to cultivate] an air of ironic detachment and distance. Retrochic ... involves not an obsession with past but an indifference to it: only when history has ceased to matter can it be treated as a sport." There is some truth to this argument, but it is a little unfair. The motives of the ironic preservationist are complicated. There is tenderness in his inanity. He wants access to a kind of purity: the purity of pure schlock. Like Frank O'Hara, he longs to be "at least as alive as the vulgar." He is often more sentimental than cool. Sometimes the ironic preservationist exalts the kitsch of the past--his Yma Sumac records, his velvet paintings, his pulp novels--because it is bizarre or amusing, sometimes because it reminds him, humbly, of something that's missing from the time in which he must live now. And so it is with the lubricious dreamworld of Bettie Page. =46rom 1950 to 1957, Bettie Page was America' s underground pin-up queen, the secret crush of thousands of men who married young and wondered what they had missed. Her career as an erotic icon took her from moderately saucy beach blanket shots (the stuff of calendars hung discreetly in the garage) to mail-order stag films with sadomasochistic themes and titles such as Captive Jungle Girl (the stuff of congressional investigations). It took her from a time in porn history when nearly nude pictures of nearly pretty girls in static cheesecake poses were still scandalous enough to pack an erotic charge to a time in which psychosexual motifs such as fetishism and domination were increasingly mass-marketed and porn was supposed to tell a story (with a beginning, a middle and a climax). She started out posing nude or in homemade bikinis, frolicking in the Long Island surf for the benefit of amateur "camera clubs"--hobbyists, shutterbugs and geeks who took pictures for their personal use and so were not bound by the obscenity laws that limited nudity in men's publications of the day. From there, she did cheerful photo spreads for magazines such as Wink and Tattler and Eyeful; Dare and Bold and Peek; Art Photography and Modern Sunbathing. And finally, in what Bettie Page's fans call her "Dark Angel" period, she did a noirish series of photos and silent film loops shot in New York by a genially sleazy stag photographer named Irving Klaw and his devoted sister Paula. Bettie and the other Klaw models, all women, usually wore the distinctive, thickly armatured underwear of the '50s--appropriately called foundation garments--and high, high heels as black and glistening as wet asphalt. Sometimes they performed burlesque shimmies, sometimes they donned leather corsets and gloves and brandished whips and hairbrushes, sometimes they trussed one another up. As in all s&m, props played a vital role and were lavished with beady-eyed attention. The settings were always delightfully low-rent; the action slow, deliberate, exaggerated. Since no men appear in the films--to include men would have been to guarantee an obscenity conviction--these short films sometimes suggest a sort of lesbian theme park, an underground network of tacky motels where you could always find tough babes playing cards in their underwear, smoking cigarettes in their underwear, menacing one another with hairbrushes in their underwear, rolling around on shag rugs in their underwear. In each of these guises, Bettie Page looked much the same. She always wore her dark hair long and loose, with pageboy bangs, which gave her a modern, intelligent look. In almost any decade, this particular hairstyle--straight hair and bangs, the bob or a variation on it-- seems to grant its wearers a purchase on modernity. (Think of how contemporary Louise Brooks appears next to other stars of the 1920s.) Partly by virtue of its association with the flapper, the straight- hair-and-bangs style has long signified free-thinking, self-possession and a crisp, unromantic Bohemianism. Bettie Page was nearly always well-toned and smooth-skinned, with a flattering all-over tan. But she had a body that was unusual among sex goddesses then and now in that it was lovely in a plausible way--neither as impossibly sinewy as a contemporary fashion model's nor as busty as Mansfield's or Monroe' s. It was, above all, a body in which she always managed to look supremely at ease. She seemed as comfortable as a pre-adolescent girl, though with her full breasts, and the womanly pooch of her slightly convex tummy, she hardly looked the gamine.
We know all this about Bettie Page not only, or even primarily, because she was so fervently admired in her brief heyday. Those first admirers tended to keep their obsession to themselves. We know it because she is so fervently admired today, the object of a cult that has done nothing to
...
> Bettie Page and the fate of pleasure in America > by Margaret Talbot > 09-08-1997 in The New Republic
> Bettie Page: The Life of a Pin-Up Legend > by Karen Essex and James L. Swanson > (General Publishing Group, 288 pp., $40)
> Poor glutted smirking us. We live in an age when pop culture is our > history and history is our flea market. Kitsch never dies; it lacks the > gravity to die; it just circles back, with a new price tag and a hopeful > air. It turns out that no junk is junky enough to be consigned to the > obsolescence for which it was intended--not fake fur or Formica, not > Russ Meyer or Ed Wood, not Esquivel or Abba. We do not lament the > passing of things that were meant to last; we lament the passing of > things that were meant not to last. We refuse to be robbed of a past by > a culture of transience. It is our lot, therefore, to be overrun, or to > overrun ourselves, with the schlock not only of today, but of two, > three, four decades past. Oblivion, it seems, is worse than vulgarity. > And so we claim ephemera for posterity. There are technological > explanations for this phenomenon, and economic ones, too. The Internet, > with its capacity for linking up thousands of otherwise furtive fans and > collectors, for bringing everybody and everything in from the periphery > to the center, for infinitely replicating shards and shards of trivia, > has accelerated the redemption of kitsch. So has the CD, for which it > seems that there never was a minor composer or a justly neglected > performance or a girl group too obscure or a lounge act too goofy. > Consider only the Capitol CD series with such self-consciously retro > titles as "Bongo Land," "Ultra- Lounge" and "Bossanovaville," risibly > awful music brought proudly and brilliantly back. The shorter the > history, the more relentless the recycling. (It was American popular > music that invented the concept of "instant gold.") Or consider > Nick-at-Nite-type cable TV, with its endless appetite for content as > familiar and as soothing as the wallpaper in our childhood bedrooms. But > behind these material facts is a sensibility, an attitude toward the > past, and toward collecting, that might be described as ironic > preservationism. Ironic preservationism differs from its straight > counterpart--the world of genealogy and heritage movements and lovingly > restored country houses--in that it resurrects objects not for their > beauty or their craftsmanship or the lasting superiority of their forms > or materials, but for the very inverse of these qualities: their > cheesiness, their triviality, their banality, their disposability. It > differs, too, from earlier preservationist movements in that the appeal > of an object does not lie in the way that time has made it recondite. > For the ironic preservationist, mystery holds no attraction. The more > crudely legible an artifact, the better. An original poster for Reefer > Madness, or Faster, Pussycat, Kill, Kill, is a great find partly because > it is so undemanding of the mind or the sensibility, so unashamedly > garish, so naked of pretension.
> The ironic preservationist is ironic because he is preserving what > was made to be forgotten. The > danger for such a collector is that he begins to see the past as a > congeries of gags, a grab bag of > "novelty items" (a term of art, in the world of American kitsch, > like the term "collectibles"), a freak > show. He believes in regress, but he is not what you would call > conservative; he is trying instead > to recapture the impermanence of yesteryear. Of course, this is > impossible, and so the precious > artifacts are merely fetishized. In the tackiness of the B-movies > and the third-rate torch songs of > the '50s and '60s, he finds innocence. (Nobody in the '50s and '60s > did.)
> The ironic preservationist is not indifferent to history so much as > addled by it. In part his attitude > is a rejection of the discontinuities of consumer culture, the > swift passing of the latest thing. By > honoring all this negligible stuff, he asserts his mastery over the > acceleration of the past. The "new > and improved" are a joke to him. (He will enjoy them later.) The > more fads and entertainments > the culture produces, the more stubbornly he clings to those of > earlier decades for stability. The > usual explanation for historic preservation movements is that, in a > throwaway society, people will > hunger for something that lasts, for an object made with some care > and to some kind of serious > accepted aesthetic standard, and intended for some kind of > posterity. But what if you determine > to make the throwaway itself endure? To make it outlive the use-by > date that capitalism stamps in > ghostly ink on every pop cultural creation? Now that is a victory! > As the British historian Raphael > Samuel writes, describing the more mainstream phenomenon of > retro-chic, the idea is not to > "deceive anyone into a hallucinatory sense of oneness with the > past, but on the contrary [to > cultivate] an air of ironic detachment and distance. Retrochic ... > involves not an obsession with > past but an indifference to it: only when history has ceased to > matter can it be treated as a sport." > There is some truth to this argument, but it is a little unfair. > The motives of the ironic > preservationist are complicated. There is tenderness in his > inanity. He wants access to a kind of > purity: the purity of pure schlock. Like Frank O'Hara, he longs to > be "at least as alive as the > vulgar." He is often more sentimental than cool. Sometimes the > ironic preservationist exalts the > kitsch of the past--his Yma Sumac records, his velvet paintings, > his pulp novels--because it is > bizarre or amusing, sometimes because it reminds him, humbly, of > something that's missing from > the time in which he must live now. And so it is with the > lubricious dreamworld of Bettie Page. > =46rom 1950 to 1957, Bettie Page was America' s underground pin-up > queen, the secret crush > of thousands of men who married young and wondered what they had > missed. Her career as an > erotic icon took her from moderately saucy beach blanket shots (the > stuff of calendars hung > discreetly in the garage) to mail-order stag films with > sadomasochistic themes and titles such as > Captive Jungle Girl (the stuff of congressional investigations). It > took her from a time in porn > history when nearly nude pictures of nearly pretty girls in static > cheesecake poses were still > scandalous enough to pack an erotic charge to a time in which > psychosexual motifs such as > fetishism and domination were increasingly mass-marketed and porn > was supposed to tell a story > (with a beginning, a middle and a climax). She started out posing > nude or in homemade bikinis, > frolicking in the Long Island surf for the benefit of amateur > "camera clubs"--hobbyists, > shutterbugs and geeks who took pictures for their personal use and > so were not bound by the > obscenity laws that limited nudity in men's publications of the > day. From there, she did cheerful > photo spreads for magazines such as Wink and Tattler and Eyeful; > Dare and Bold and Peek; Art > Photography and Modern Sunbathing. And finally, in what Bettie > Page's fans call her "Dark > Angel" period, she did a noirish series of photos and silent film > loops shot in New York by a > genially sleazy stag photographer named Irving Klaw and his devoted > sister Paula. Bettie and the > other Klaw models, all women, usually wore the distinctive, thickly > armatured underwear of the > '50s--appropriately called foundation garments--and high, high > heels as black and glistening as > wet asphalt. Sometimes they performed burlesque shimmies, sometimes > they donned leather > corsets and gloves and brandished whips and hairbrushes, sometimes > they trussed one another > up. As in all s&m, props played a vital role and were lavished with > beady-eyed attention. The > settings were always delightfully low-rent; the action slow, > deliberate, exaggerated. Since no men > appear in the films--to include men would have been to guarantee an > obscenity conviction--these > short films sometimes suggest a sort of lesbian theme park, an > underground network of tacky > motels where you could always find tough babes playing cards in > their underwear, smoking > cigarettes in their underwear, menacing one another with > hairbrushes in their underwear, rolling > around on shag rugs in their underwear. In each of these guises, > Bettie Page looked much the > same. She always wore her dark hair long and loose, with pageboy > bangs, which gave her a > modern, intelligent look. In almost any decade, this particular > hairstyle--straight hair and bangs, > the bob or a variation on it-- seems to grant its wearers a > purchase on modernity. (Think of how > contemporary Louise Brooks appears next to other stars of the > 1920s.) Partly by virtue of its > association with the flapper, the straight- hair-and-bangs style > has long signified free-thinking, > self-possession and a crisp, unromantic Bohemianism. Bettie Page > was nearly always well-toned > and smooth-skinned, with a flattering all-over tan. But she had a > body that was unusual among > sex goddesses then and now in that it was lovely in a plausible > way--neither as impossibly sinewy > as a contemporary fashion model's nor as busty as Mansfield's or > Monroe' s. It was, above all, a > body in which she always managed to look supremely at ease. She > seemed as comfortable as a > pre-adolescent
> > Bettie Page and the fate of pleasure in America > > by Margaret Talbot > > 09-08-1997 in The New Republic
> > Bettie Page: The Life of a Pin-Up Legend > > by Karen Essex and James L. Swanson > > (General Publishing Group, 288 pp., $40)
> > Poor glutted smirking us. We live in an age when pop culture is our > > history and history is our flea market. Kitsch never dies; it lacks the > > gravity to die; it just circles back, with a new price tag and a hopeful > > air. It turns out that no junk is junky enough to be consigned to the > > obsolescence for which it was intended--not fake fur or Formica, not > > Russ Meyer or Ed Wood, not Esquivel or Abba. We do not lament the > > passing of things that were meant to last; we lament the passing of > > things that were meant not to last. We refuse to be robbed of a past by > > a culture of transience. It is our lot, therefore, to be overrun, or to > > overrun ourselves, with the schlock not only of today, but of two, > > three, four decades past. Oblivion, it seems, is worse than vulgarity. > > And so we claim ephemera for posterity. There are technological > > explanations for this phenomenon, and economic ones, too. The Internet, > > with its capacity for linking up thousands of otherwise furtive fans and > > collectors, for bringing everybody and everything in from the periphery > > to the center, for infinitely replicating shards and shards of trivia, > > has accelerated the redemption of kitsch. So has the CD, for which it > > seems that there never was a minor composer or a justly neglected > > performance or a girl group too obscure or a lounge act too goofy. > > Consider only the Capitol CD series with such self-consciously retro > > titles as "Bongo Land," "Ultra- Lounge" and "Bossanovaville," risibly > > awful music brought proudly and brilliantly back. The shorter the > > history, the more relentless the recycling. (It was American popular > > music that invented the concept of "instant gold.") Or consider > > Nick-at-Nite-type cable TV, with its endless appetite for content as > > familiar and as soothing as the wallpaper in our childhood bedrooms. But > > behind these material facts is a sensibility, an attitude toward the > > past, and toward collecting, that might be described as ironic > > preservationism. Ironic preservationism differs from its straight > > counterpart--the world of genealogy and heritage movements and lovingly > > restored country houses--in that it resurrects objects not for their > > beauty or their craftsmanship or the lasting superiority of their forms > > or materials, but for the very inverse of these qualities: their > > cheesiness, their triviality, their banality, their disposability. It > > differs, too, from earlier preservationist movements in that the appeal > > of an object does not lie in the way that time has made it recondite. > > For the ironic preservationist, mystery holds no attraction. The more > > crudely legible an artifact, the better. An original poster for Reefer > > Madness, or Faster, Pussycat, Kill, Kill, is a great find partly because > > it is so undemanding of the mind or the sensibility, so unashamedly > > garish, so naked of pretension.
> > The ironic preservationist is ironic because he is preserving what > > was made to be forgotten. The > > danger for such a collector is that he begins to see the past as a > > congeries of gags, a grab bag of > > "novelty items" (a term of art, in the world of American kitsch, > > like the term "collectibles"), a freak > > show. He believes in regress, but he is not what you would call > > conservative; he is trying instead > > to recapture the impermanence of yesteryear. Of course, this is > > impossible, and so the precious > > artifacts are merely fetishized. In the tackiness of the B-movies > > and the third-rate torch songs of > > the '50s and '60s, he finds innocence. (Nobody in the '50s and '60s > > did.)
> > The ironic preservationist is not indifferent to history so much as > > addled by it. In part his attitude > > is a rejection of the discontinuities of consumer culture, the > > swift passing of the latest thing. By > > honoring all this negligible stuff, he asserts his mastery over the > > acceleration of the past. The "new > > and improved" are a joke to him. (He will enjoy them later.) The > > more fads and entertainments > > the culture produces, the more stubbornly he clings to those of > > earlier decades for stability. The > > usual explanation for historic preservation movements is that, in a > > throwaway society, people will > > hunger for something that lasts, for an object made with some care > > and to some kind of serious > > accepted aesthetic standard, and intended for some kind of > > posterity. But what if you determine > > to make the throwaway itself endure? To make it outlive the use-by > > date that capitalism stamps in > > ghostly ink on every pop cultural creation? Now that is a victory! > > As the British historian Raphael > > Samuel writes, describing the more mainstream phenomenon of > > retro-chic, the idea is not to > > "deceive anyone into a hallucinatory sense of oneness with the > > past, but on the contrary [to > > cultivate] an air of ironic detachment and distance. Retrochic ... > > involves not an obsession with > > past but an indifference to it: only when history has ceased to > > matter can it be treated as a sport." > > There is some truth to this argument, but it is a little unfair. > > The motives of the ironic > > preservationist are complicated. There is tenderness in his > > inanity. He wants access to a kind of > > purity: the purity of pure schlock. Like Frank O'Hara, he longs to > > be "at least as alive as the > > vulgar." He is often more sentimental than cool. Sometimes the > > ironic preservationist exalts the > > kitsch of the past--his Yma Sumac records, his velvet paintings, > > his pulp novels--because it is > > bizarre or amusing, sometimes because it reminds him, humbly, of > > something that's missing from > > the time in which he must live now. And so it is with the > > lubricious dreamworld of Bettie Page. > > =46rom 1950 to 1957, Bettie Page was America' s underground pin-up > > queen, the secret crush > > of thousands of men who married young and wondered what they had > > missed. Her career as an > > erotic icon took her from moderately saucy beach blanket shots (the > > stuff of calendars hung > > discreetly in the garage) to mail-order stag films with > > sadomasochistic themes and titles such as > > Captive Jungle Girl (the stuff of congressional investigations). It > > took her from a time in porn > > history when nearly nude pictures of nearly pretty girls in static > > cheesecake poses were still > > scandalous enough to pack an erotic charge to a time in which > > psychosexual motifs such as > > fetishism and domination were increasingly mass-marketed and porn > > was supposed to tell a story > > (with a beginning, a middle and a climax). She started out posing > > nude or in homemade bikinis, > > frolicking in the Long Island surf for the benefit of amateur > > "camera clubs"--hobbyists, > > shutterbugs and geeks who took pictures for their personal use and > > so were not bound by the > > obscenity laws that limited nudity in men's publications of the > > day. From there, she did cheerful > > photo spreads for magazines such as Wink and Tattler and Eyeful; > > Dare and Bold and Peek; Art > > Photography and Modern Sunbathing. And finally, in what Bettie > > Page's fans call her "Dark > > Angel" period, she did a noirish series of photos and silent film > > loops shot in New York by a > > genially sleazy stag photographer named Irving Klaw and his devoted > > sister Paula. Bettie and the > > other Klaw models, all women, usually wore the distinctive, thickly > > armatured underwear of the > > '50s--appropriately called foundation garments--and high, high > > heels as black and glistening as > > wet asphalt. Sometimes they performed burlesque shimmies, sometimes > > they donned leather > > corsets and gloves and brandished whips and hairbrushes, sometimes > > they trussed one another > > up. As in all s&m, props played a vital role and were lavished with > > beady-eyed attention. The > > settings were always delightfully low-rent; the action slow, > > deliberate, exaggerated. Since no men > > appear in the films--to include men would have been to guarantee an > > obscenity conviction--these > > short films sometimes suggest a sort of lesbian theme park, an > > underground network of tacky > > motels where you could always find tough babes playing cards in > > their underwear, smoking > > cigarettes in their underwear, menacing one another with > > hairbrushes in their underwear, rolling > > around on shag rugs in their underwear. In each of these guises, > > Bettie Page looked much the > > same. She always wore her dark hair long and loose, with pageboy > > bangs, which gave her a > > modern, intelligent look. In almost any decade, this particular > > hairstyle--straight hair and bangs, > > the bob or a variation on it-- seems to grant its wearers a > > purchase on modernity. (Think of how > > contemporary Louise Brooks appears next to other stars of the > > 1920s.) Partly by virtue of its > > association with the flapper, the straight- hair-and-bangs style > > has long signified free-thinking, > > self-possession and a crisp, unromantic
newsgroup wrote: > Bettie Page and the fate of pleasure in America > by Margaret Talbot > 09-08-1997 in The New Republic
> Bettie Page: The Life of a Pin-Up Legend > by Karen Essex and James L. Swanson > (General Publishing Group, 288 pp., $40)
> Poor glutted smirking us. We live in an age when pop culture is our > history and history is our flea market. Kitsch never dies; it lacks the > gravity to die; it just circles back, with a new price tag and a hopeful > air. It turns out that no junk is junky enough to be consigned to the > obsolescence for which it was intended--not fake fur or Formica, not > Russ Meyer or Ed Wood, not Esquivel or Abba. We do not lament the > passing of things that were meant to last; we lament the passing of > things that were meant not to last. We refuse to be robbed of a past by > a culture of transience. It is our lot, therefore, to be overrun, or to > overrun ourselves, with the schlock not only of today, but of two, > three, four decades past. Oblivion, it seems, is worse than vulgarity. > And so we claim ephemera for posterity. There are technological > explanations for this phenomenon, and economic ones, too. The Internet, > with its capacity for linking up thousands of otherwise furtive fans and > collectors, for bringing everybody and everything in from the periphery > to the center, for infinitely replicating shards and shards of trivia, > has accelerated the redemption of kitsch. So has the CD, for which it > seems that there never was a minor composer or a justly neglected > performance or a girl group too obscure or a lounge act too goofy. > Consider only the Capitol CD series with such self-consciously retro > titles as "Bongo Land," "Ultra- Lounge" and "Bossanovaville," risibly > awful music brought proudly and brilliantly back. The shorter the > history, the more relentless the recycling. (It was American popular > music that invented the concept of "instant gold.") Or consider > Nick-at-Nite-type cable TV, with its endless appetite for content as > familiar and as soothing as the wallpaper in our childhood bedrooms. But > behind these material facts is a sensibility, an attitude toward the > past, and toward collecting, that might be described as ironic > preservationism. Ironic preservationism differs from its straight > counterpart--the world of genealogy and heritage movements and lovingly > restored country houses--in that it resurrects objects not for their > beauty or their craftsmanship or the lasting superiority of their forms > or materials, but for the very inverse of these qualities: their > cheesiness, their triviality, their banality, their disposability. It > differs, too, from earlier preservationist movements in that the appeal > of an object does not lie in the way that time has made it recondite. > For the ironic preservationist, mystery holds no attraction. The more > crudely legible an artifact, the better. An original poster for Reefer > Madness, or Faster, Pussycat, Kill, Kill, is a great find partly because > it is so undemanding of the mind or the sensibility, so unashamedly > garish, so naked of pretension.
> The ironic preservationist is ironic because he is preserving what > was made to be forgotten. The > danger for such a collector is that he begins to see the past as a > congeries of gags, a grab bag of > "novelty items" (a term of art, in the world of American kitsch, > like the term "collectibles"), a freak > show. He believes in regress, but he is not what you would call > conservative; he is trying instead > to recapture the impermanence of yesteryear. Of course, this is > impossible, and so the precious > artifacts are merely fetishized. In the tackiness of the B-movies > and the third-rate torch songs of > the '50s and '60s, he finds innocence. (Nobody in the '50s and '60s > did.)
> The ironic preservationist is not indifferent to history so much as > addled by it. In part his attitude > is a rejection of the discontinuities of consumer culture, the > swift passing of the latest thing. By > honoring all this negligible stuff, he asserts his mastery over the > acceleration of the past. The "new > and improved" are a joke to him. (He will enjoy them later.) The > more fads and entertainments > the culture produces, the more stubbornly he clings to those of > earlier decades for stability. The > usual explanation for historic preservation movements is that, in a > throwaway society, people will > hunger for something that lasts, for an object made with some care > and to some kind of serious > accepted aesthetic standard, and intended for some kind of > posterity. But what if you determine > to make the throwaway itself endure? To make it outlive the use-by > date that capitalism stamps in > ghostly ink on every pop cultural creation? Now that is a victory! > As the British historian Raphael > Samuel writes, describing the more mainstream phenomenon of > retro-chic, the idea is not to > "deceive anyone into a hallucinatory sense of oneness with the > past, but on the contrary [to > cultivate] an air of ironic detachment and distance. Retrochic ... > involves not an obsession with > past but an indifference to it: only when history has ceased to > matter can it be treated as a sport." > There is some truth to this argument, but it is a little unfair. > The motives of the ironic > preservationist are complicated. There is tenderness in his > inanity. He wants access to a kind of > purity: the purity of pure schlock. Like Frank O'Hara, he longs to > be "at least as alive as the > vulgar." He is often more sentimental than cool. Sometimes the > ironic preservationist exalts the > kitsch of the past--his Yma Sumac records, his velvet paintings, > his pulp novels--because it is > bizarre or amusing, sometimes because it reminds him, humbly, of > something that's missing from > the time in which he must live now. And so it is with the > lubricious dreamworld of Bettie Page. > =46rom 1950 to 1957, Bettie Page was America' s underground pin-up > queen, the secret crush > of thousands of men who married young and wondered what they had > missed. Her career as an > erotic icon took her from moderately saucy beach blanket shots (the > stuff of calendars hung > discreetly in the garage) to mail-order stag films with > sadomasochistic themes and titles such as > Captive Jungle Girl (the stuff of congressional investigations). It > took her from a time in porn > history when nearly nude pictures of nearly pretty girls in static > cheesecake poses were still > scandalous enough to pack an erotic charge to a time in which > psychosexual motifs such as > fetishism and domination were increasingly mass-marketed and porn > was supposed to tell a story > (with a beginning, a middle and a climax). She started out posing > nude or in homemade bikinis, > frolicking in the Long Island surf for the benefit of amateur > "camera clubs"--hobbyists, > shutterbugs and geeks who took pictures for their personal use and > so were not bound by the > obscenity laws that limited nudity in men's publications of the > day. From there, she did cheerful > photo spreads for magazines such as Wink and Tattler and Eyeful; > Dare and Bold and Peek; Art > Photography and Modern Sunbathing. And finally, in what Bettie > Page's fans call her "Dark > Angel" period, she did a noirish series of photos and silent film > loops shot in New York by a > genially sleazy stag photographer named Irving Klaw and his devoted > sister Paula. Bettie and the > other Klaw models, all women, usually wore the distinctive, thickly > armatured underwear of the > '50s--appropriately called foundation garments--and high, high > heels as black and glistening as > wet asphalt. Sometimes they performed burlesque shimmies, sometimes > they donned leather > corsets and gloves and brandished whips and hairbrushes, sometimes > they trussed one another > up. As in all s&m, props played a vital role and were lavished with > beady-eyed attention. The > settings were always delightfully low-rent; the action slow, > deliberate, exaggerated. Since no men > appear in the films--to include men would have been to guarantee an > obscenity conviction--these > short films sometimes suggest a sort of lesbian theme park, an > underground network of tacky > motels where you could always find tough babes playing cards in > their underwear, smoking > cigarettes in their underwear, menacing one another with > hairbrushes in their underwear, rolling > around on shag rugs in their underwear. In each of these guises, > Bettie Page looked much the > same. She always wore her dark hair long and loose, with pageboy > bangs, which gave her a > modern, intelligent look. In almost any decade, this particular > hairstyle--straight hair and bangs, > the bob or a variation on it-- seems to grant its wearers a > purchase on modernity. (Think of how > contemporary Louise Brooks appears next to other stars of the > 1920s.) Partly by virtue of its > association with the flapper, the straight- hair-and-bangs style > has long signified free-thinking, > self-possession and a crisp, unromantic Bohemianism. Bettie Page > was nearly always well-toned > and smooth-skinned, with a flattering all-over tan. But she had a > body that was unusual among > sex goddesses then and now in that it was lovely in a plausible > way--neither as impossibly sinewy > as a contemporary fashion model's nor as busty as Mansfield's or > Monroe' s. It was, above all, a > body in which she