Conversion File Types?
Dave C
Would like a reference on converting a PSP7 image (EPS) to CorelDRAW 7.0.
(CDR?). SInce PSP7 can't actually convert to a vector graphic I want to be
able to mange with CorelDRAW 7.0.
Would using XaraX be the same procedure.
TIA
Dave
Angela M. Cable
Try saving in PSP as an .emf or .wmf if Corel Draw will open that.
--
Angela M. Cable
http://www.neocognition.com
PSP Tutorial Links:
http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/Plains/9871/PSPlinks.html
5th Street Studio, free graphics, websets and more:
http://www.fortunecity.com/westwood/alaia/354/
BladePro Visual Archive:
http://www.crosswinds.net/~angeal/
Mike C.
> --
> Angela M. Cable
> http://www.neocognition.com
Angela, I went to your web site and I was impressed with your photography...
BUT... you need to work on the cropping of your photos... the little
thumbnails are much more interesting that most of the full sized images.
":^) ®
--
Mike C.
* Logo Design
* DHTML & GIF Animation
* Custom Graphics for YOUR Site!
Stop by and see if my skills and talents are up to your standards.
Site at: http://www.artistmike.com
NEW SITE at: http://www.mikeslogoland.com/
Email Mike at: mi...@artistmike.com
Angela M. Cable
>
> Angela M. Cable wrote on 05/16/2001 10:17 AM:
>
> > --
> > Angela M. Cable
> > http://www.neocognition.com
>
> Angela, I went to your web site and I was impressed with your photography...
>
> BUT... you need to work on the cropping of your photos... the little
> thumbnails are much more interesting that most of the full sized images.
>
> ":^) ®
Thanks, yeah, I noticed that the thumbs were better than the larger
image after I was "done", I've still got the original scans to go back
to and re-do, just a matter of finding the time to do it again. Did you
visit before or after I put up the Polaroid gallery? I just uploaded
that this afternoon and have some more work sitting here to be scanned.
The scans don't really do a good job of capturing the originals, the
transfer effect is very subtle, I think I need to bump *down* the dpi
I'm scanning at, but you can get an idea of the process from it. If it
looks like something you might want to try, let me know and I'll send
along some URLs, it's really a lot of fun to do :-)
--
Angela M. Cable
http://www.neocognition.com
PSP Tutorial Links:
Mike C.
> I think I need to bump *down* the dpi
> I'm scanning at, but you can get an idea of the process from it. If it
> looks like something you might want to try, let me know and I'll send
> along some URLs, it's really a lot of fun to do :-)
I am not quite sure what you mean by the "process" you are using.
I shoot with a digital camera, so there is no scanning of the print.
":^) ®
--
Mike C.
* Logo Design
* DHTML & GIF Animation
* Custom Graphics for YOUR Site!
Stop by and see if my skills and talents are up to your standards.
Site at: http://www.artistmike.com
NEW SITE at: http://www.mikeslogoland.com/
mailto:mi...@artistmike.com?Subject=Logo.Project
Angela M. Cable
>
> Angela M. Cable wrote on 05/16/2001 5:25 PM:
>
> > I think I need to bump *down* the dpi
> > I'm scanning at, but you can get an idea of the process from it. If it
> > looks like something you might want to try, let me know and I'll send
> > along some URLs, it's really a lot of fun to do :-)
>
> I am not quite sure what you mean by the "process" you are using.
>
> I shoot with a digital camera, so there is no scanning of the print.
>
> ":^) ®
I think I lost my train of thought while I was typing :-) Polaroid
Image Transfers use either an old 100 series Polaroid camera or an old
ProPack camera or slides and a color enlarger. Whichever is used, the
image needs to be exposed onto pack film (the peel apart kind), I'm
using type 669 both in a ProPack and with a Daylab color enlarger and
slides that I all ready have lying around. However you expose it, the
next step is to prematurely peel apart the film, throw the picture away,
slap the gooey part (negative) onto soaked and squeegeed watercolor
paper, wait, peel off, partially dry, agitate in a vinegar and water
"stop" bath, rinse and completely dry. With a digital camera, you'd
need to send a high resolution digital file to something like Photoworks
and have them make slides of the images for use in a Daylab. Probably
it would be easier to just lurk around a junk/thrift store and pick up
an old pack film camera for a couple of bucks, if you like the
technique, then you might want to consider getting an enlarger. There
are pros and cons to using either method...with a pack film camera, you
can't get too far from the house since you can't pull the film through
the developer rollers until you've got the receptor surface ready, you
need access to near boiling water as well; if you screw up during the
transfer process the image is lost forever; but, the images will be
completely original if they do turn out; and the color seems to be
somewhat more saturated with the camera. The Daylab, they're kind of
expensive even used at auction to purchase, I got mine for $150; the
color doesn't seem to me to be as vibrant as what's captured compared to
the camera images; if you make a mistake, though, all you have to do is
re-expose onto another piece of film; you also have access to color
filtration and exposure compensation controls; and once you've bought
the Daylab, you can then buy different sized bases for the thing to do
your own traditional color enlargements up to 8x10 from slides or
negatives using a chemical kit. The Daylab, BTW is a *daylight*
enlarger, you don't need a darkroom at all to use the thing, I'm using
mine in the kitchen.
You can also do emulsion transfers using either process, in this case
you're actually lifting off the color emulsion from the completely dried
film by soaking it in water, you then slip a piece of paper under the
floating emulsion, lift it out of the water and manipulate it as you
wish.
With either technique, once the thing's dry, you can go back with
Prismacolors, watercolor, pen and ink, pastel, whatever you want and
further modify the image.
Another technique you might find interesting is SX70 manipulation, the
cameras that take SX70 film are pretty easy to find in thrift stores, or
you can slightly modify a current 600 series or One Step camera to take
SX70 film. I haven't tried this yet, my brother's got an SX70 camera, I
just need to hunt him down to borrow it. Evidently the dyes that
actually make up the image remain kind of squishy for several hours
after the film pops out, what you can do is take various instruments
(orange cuticle stick, toothpick with cotton wrapped around it, anything
with a dull point or edge that won't cut through the plastic covering)
and use them to "draw" on the surface of the film causing the dyes to
shift around. Some of the stuff I've seen done with this method has a
very "Dali-esque" quality to it.
It's incredibly fun to do, and slightly addictive, I'm on my third pack
of film and just ordered two more from Adorama.com :-)
Mike C.
"Angela M. Cable" wrote:
> Another technique you might find interesting is SX70 manipulation, the
> cameras that take SX70 film are pretty easy to find in thrift stores, or
> you can slightly modify a current 600 series or One Step camera to take
> SX70 film. I haven't tried this yet, my brother's got an SX70 camera, I
> just need to hunt him down to borrow it. Evidently the dyes that
> actually make up the image remain kind of squishy for several hours
> after the film pops out, what you can do is take various instruments
> (orange cuticle stick, toothpick with cotton wrapped around it, anything
> with a dull point or edge that won't cut through the plastic covering)
> and use them to "draw" on the surface of the film causing the dyes to
> shift around. Some of the stuff I've seen done with this method has a
> very "Dali-esque" quality to it.
>
> It's incredibly fun to do, and slightly addictive, I'm on my third pack
> of film and just ordered two more from Adorama.com :-)
I have seen this type of effect done...I also remember a magazine
article on this effect. You can just push parts of the image
around with your finger and distort the image... sort of like a
digital image where you can push the pixels around.
Distort faces, making spiked hair...