BANGALORE: The US recession story is well on its way to Indian shores. The 
$9 billion domestic garment export industry, already reeling under an 
appreciating rupee and allegations of labour rights violations, is now being 
hit by a slowdown in the US market, as consumer spend on clothing remains 
sluggish in the run up to peak Christmas season sales.
In the past few weeks, several major retailers like Wal-Mart, Gap and Target 
have said that they were not expecting the festive season rush to be the 
same as every year. Some of them have warned of the bleak scenario 
continuing well into next year.
According to sources, this could see some of these biggest fashion retailers 
reducing their sourcing exposure to Indian vendors by 15-20% by value in the 
current financial year. The list of American retailers limiting their 
shipments may also include Abercrombie & Fitch, DKNY and Philip Van Heusen 
(PVH), according to an industry source.
India's garment export sector, which according to Apparel Exports Promotion 
Council data reported 7% growth by value in FY07, is most likely to return 
flat figures for the current fiscal, industry observers added.
The $15 billion Gap Inc, marketers of brands like Banana Republic, Old Navy 
and the namesake flagship, is expected to lower its sourcing from the Indian 
sub-continent, which reportedly topped $1 billion in the previous calendar 
year.
If sources are to be believed, Gap's shipments from the sub-continent, 
including Sri Lanka and Bangladesh, during the calendar year 2007 would be 
down to $700-750 million as it struggles with consumer footfalls in stores 
across US. ET could not contact a Gap Inc representative in India despite 
repeated efforts.
A senior executive at the Rs 950 crore Gokaldas Exports, the largest 
domestic garment exporter, said the company will take a hit of at least $15 
million (Rs 60-80 crore) in its annualised topline revenue on account of Gap 
alone.
"In the last fiscal, Gap contributed 50% of our revenue. We see it drop by 
almost 10% in the current financial year as Gap places smaller orders and 
will not fully absorb the impact of appreciating rupee," a company official 
said.
Gokaldas Exports, in which private equity Blackstone is a majority 
stakeholder, is the biggest vendor to Gap Inc in India. Sources said, Gap, 
which works with around 200 small-to-large vendors in this part of the 
world, has been scaling down orders across the spectrum for many of its 
brands, with the probable exception of Old Navy, as it is facing market 
place fatigue even after a recent operational rejig.
The shipments to the US are also slowing down as many domestic vendors are 
looking to re-negotiate price with their clients on the back of a soaring 
rupee, which has whittled down the margins rather precariously. It is 
believed that several US brands have refused to absorb the rupee impact and 
are placing smaller orders citing a slow down. The volume-driven American 
market accounts for almost 50% of country's garment exports that is likely 
to remain flat in terms of value growth during FY08.
The industry observers claimed that the recession feeling appeared more real 
with chains like Wal-Mart kicking off festive season discounts well in 
advance this year. "Wal-Mart, which goes in for discounting from December 
first week, has started it almost three weeks in advance this year," said an 
exporter, who did not want to be identified. Wal-Mart's apparel sourcing 
from India is estimated at around $400-450 million, sources added.
The US slow down fears are hitting India at a time when high-end European 
brands like Diesel and Hugo Boss may be expanding their sourcing from India. 
The latest fashion icons in Los Angeles like 7 For All Mankind and True 
Religion, continue to source most of its apparels from US and the remaining 
from Europe.
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