noob question on ink flow after cleaning
Billy Rhythm
group), but they couldn't help me!
:-)
I recenly got back into writing with a fountain pen. When in college,
I used to use a Parker, and really liked it. I lost it though, and
never really picked another one up. When I was promoted at my job, I
decided to celebrate with a Waterman Phileus. (I decided to skip Mont
Blanc due to the many sketchy reviews here.)
After I went through the included cartridge, I decide to have a go
with the converter and bottle ink. I should've looked up "Winsor and
Newton" before buying, though. It and the Phileus didn't seem to agree
with each other.
So now I'm back to the cartridge. I've given the pen a thorough
cleaning. I've given it a few good flicks into the waste basket. Ink
is coming out, but it's not writing like before. It almost feels like
the volume of ink has decreased. The pen now seems scratchier than
before--like enough ink isn't being transferred to the paper.
Is there anything else "easy" I should try?
TIA.
Bill
AKA Billy Rhythm
Maine USA
Brian Ketterling
> After I went through the included cartridge, I decide to have a go
> with the converter and bottle ink. I should've looked up "Winsor and
> Newton" before buying, though. It and the Phileus didn't seem to agree
> with each other.
Oooh... no, you probably shouldn't have put that artist's ink, or watercolor
paint, into your pen. :-P
> Ink
> is coming out, but it's not writing like before. It almost feels like
> the volume of ink has decreased. The pen now seems scratchier than
> before--like enough ink isn't being transferred to the paper.
There probably is a clog in the feed. You could try going back to the same
store, and see if they have Koh-I-Noor "Rapido-Eze" pen cleaner. That might
get it out. Get the kit with the rubber bulb, or the often-mentioned rubber
desoldering bulb at Radio Shack, so that you can use some pressure to help
blow out the clog (after a good, long soak).
Brian
--
Billy Rhythm
products-peoplepc.com> wrote:
> Billy Rhythm wrote:
> > After I went through the included cartridge, I decide to have a go
> Oooh... no, you probably shouldn't have put that artist's ink, or watercolor
> paint, into your pen. :-P
>
The awful part is I went to a store that sold both artists inks AND
fountain pen supplies. The box says it's suitable for fountain pens,
but I'm not agreeing!
>
> There probably is a clog in the feed. You could try going back to the same
> store, and see if they have Koh-I-Noor "Rapido-Eze" pen cleaner. That might
> get it out. Get the kit with the rubber bulb, or the often-mentioned rubber
> desoldering bulb at Radio Shack, so that you can use some pressure to help
> blow out the clog (after a good, long soak).
>
Thanks! I'll check it out. Soak in plain water no? Or perhaps a little
dish washing liquid?
Bill
Brian Ketterling
> The awful part is I went to a store that sold both artists inks AND
> fountain pen supplies. The box says it's suitable for fountain pens,
> but I'm not agreeing!
I guess we'll have to start watching out for that. Another brand of ink
came up for discussion lately, Daler Rowney's "Calli". The manufacturer,
apparently, says that it's suitable for fountain pens, but some dealer
websites say it's not. I'd be cautious, at least -- it's pigment-, rather
than dye-based, and contains acrylic vehicle to make it waterproof. By the
way, Daler Rowney says that if it dries in your pen, you can clean it out
with their airbrush cleaning fluid -- might be something to look into, if
Rapido-Eze doesn't work for you.
How is your Winsor & Newton ink labelled? I only have one bottle of their
ink around (an old one), and it says "suitable for brush or steel nibbed
pen". I definitely wouldn't put *it* in a fountain pen -- it's
metal-pigmented "gold" ink!
>> There probably is a clog in the feed. You could try going back to the
>> same store, and see if they have Koh-I-Noor "Rapido-Eze" pen cleaner.
>> That might get it out. Get the kit with the rubber bulb, or the
>> often-mentioned rubber desoldering bulb at Radio Shack, so that you can
>> use some pressure to help blow out the clog (after a good, long soak).
>>
>
> Thanks! I'll check it out. Soak in plain water no? Or perhaps a little
> dish washing liquid?
Soak it in the Rapido-Eze -- it's a pen-cleaning fluid. The kit includes a
bottle of Rapido-Eze and a rubber bulb, or you can use a bottle of
Rapido-Eze and Radio Shack's desoldering bulb, #64-2086 (remove the white
teflon tip).
Brian
--
Brian Ketterling
> And if all else fails you can pop the nib and section into an ultrasonic
> jewelry cleaner...
>
> BTW, never use any of these methods on a hard rubber pen as it will
> permanently discolor.
>
> In general, inks from fine art suppliers are not suitable for fountain
> pens.
All good advice!
> Usual suspects are... Higgins (india ink),...
Although Higgins does make "Fountain Pen India", a non-waterproof India ink
for fountain pens. I ran a fair amount through a Cross Solo Classic with no
clogging or flow problems at all, and no need for extra cleaning. I did
stop using it, because it wasn't a dense enough black for me.
Brian
--
Billy Rhythm
> ink around (an old one), and it says "suitable for brush or steel nibbed
> pen". I definitely wouldn't put *it* in a fountain pen -- it's
> metal-pigmented "gold" ink!
>
The bottle says:
Calligraphy Ink
For Fountain and Dip Pens
And, as a follow-up, things are fine this morning. The bulb syringe
idea gave me a thought. I'm not sure this is OSHA approved, but after
some more rinsing with cold water, I gave the flow tube a couple of
puffs of air. I just sorta, well [stammers], stuck my mouth on it and
gave it a little, um, blow. It still felt a little scratchy after
that, so I just left it for the weekend. This morning, when I started
writing, all was well again.
I also have 2 1/2 year old twin boys. We have several nasal aspirators
kicking around the house. I'm going to scare one up for the pen first
aid kit.
Thanks again, all. I'll contiue lurking. I'm really digging the
fountain pen feel, so I'm sure an upgrade is in my future. The Philius
is nice, but I'd like something with a little more heft. Who knows,
maybe something vintage is in my future.
Bill
Adam Funk
>> How is your Winsor & Newton ink labelled? I only have one bottle of their
>> ink around (an old one), and it says "suitable for brush or steel nibbed
>> pen". I definitely wouldn't put *it* in a fountain pen -- it's
>> metal-pigmented "gold" ink!
>
> The bottle says:
> Calligraphy Ink
> For Fountain and Dip Pens
I was under the impression (I think I heard this from someone in a
craft supply shop) that "calligraphy ink" was less viscous and
susceptible to clogging than normal fountain-pen ink.
Curtis L. Russell
wrote:
>I was under the impression (I think I heard this from someone in a
>craft supply shop) that "calligraphy ink" was less viscous and
>susceptible to clogging than normal fountain-pen ink.
I think it would depend on the specific caligraphy ink, which is part
of the problem. I've been at some stores where calligraphy isn't just
a section of one aisle, and there were inks, all called calligraphy
ink, for everything from brushes and dip pens to inks for fountain
pens and if you waited for the right salesperson, that one person
could tell you which was which. There was an India Ink with shellac
that was intended for brushes that I still have. The only thing
thicker called ink that I have seen is the Chinese brush ink that I
make from a block. I wouldn't put either in a fountain pen.
Buying fountain pen ink and putting it in a fountain pen has the
saving grace that if it doesn't work, I can reasonably demand that it
should. Somehow I feel that the same person at the local craft store
that told me that as far as they knew, ink was ink and should work in
a fountain pen will tell me, when I show up with a non-functioning FP,
that I obviously purchased ink meant for a brush or dip pen.
Curtis L. Russell
Odenton, MD (USA)
Just someone on two wheels...
Curtis L. Russell
<cur...@md-bicycling.org> wrote:
>I think it would depend on the specific caligraphy ink, which is part
>of the problem. I've been at some stores where calligraphy isn't just
>a section of one aisle, and there were inks, all called calligraphy
>ink, for everything from brushes and dip pens to inks for fountain
>pens and if you waited for the right salesperson, that one person
>could tell you which was which.
Which reminds me of the amusing part of the whole calligraphy ink
thing. We were there to buy a calligraphy set for my wife, who wanted
to give it a try. We bought a fairly nice set with multiple
calligraphy style dip pens and inks and the labels on the inks would
have you think that they were the most permanent thing ever made by
man. Except in the instructions they said that if you planned to use
the set to do envelopes for wedding invitations, you should buy one of
their envelope sprays or washes that prevented smudging in case of wet
weather or sweaty hands.
Can't believe the labels...
Brian Ketterling
> And, as a follow-up, things are fine this morning. The bulb syringe
> idea gave me a thought. I'm not sure this is OSHA approved, but after
> some more rinsing with cold water, I gave the flow tube a couple of
> puffs of air. I just sorta, well [stammers], stuck my mouth on it and
> gave it a little, um, blow.
"You know how to whistle, don't you?"
If that technique can nail a monkey in a tree with a blowdart, it should be
fine for a balky pen :) .
> It still felt a little scratchy after
> that, so I just left it for the weekend. This morning, when I started
> writing, all was well again.
Good deal. The vehicle in the ink must not have had time to really set.
> The Philius
> is nice, but I'd like something with a little more heft. Who knows,
> maybe something vintage is in my future.
Or for a new pen, maybe lacquered brass?
Brian
--
Adam Funk
> I think it would depend on the specific caligraphy ink, which is part
> of the problem. I've been at some stores where calligraphy isn't just
> a section of one aisle, and there were inks, all called calligraphy
> ink, for everything from brushes and dip pens to inks for fountain
> pens and if you waited for the right salesperson, that one person
> could tell you which was which. There was an India Ink with shellac
> that was intended for brushes that I still have. The only thing
> thicker called ink that I have seen is the Chinese brush ink that I
> make from a block. I wouldn't put either in a fountain pen.
Neither would I! There's also something in the UK called "Registrar's
Ink", which is used for writing in church marriage registers (for
example). I think it's supposed to react with the paper so that it's
completely indelible without destroying the paper. I saw a bottle in
a specialist legal stationer's shop once --- it was labelled for dip
pens only, and specifically marked as unsuitable for fountain pens.
The "calligraphy ink" I have is one of Windsor & Newton's brown ones.
It works fine in a particular Waterman pen that I bought in 1990 and
that has *never* jammed! Unfortunately the cap is now a loose fit so
it's not suitable to carry around.
Semolina Pilchard
> Neither would I! There's also something in the UK called "Registrar's
> Ink", which is used for writing in church marriage registers (for
> example). I think it's supposed to react with the paper so that it's
> completely indelible without destroying the paper. I saw a bottle in
> a specialist legal stationer's shop once --- it was labelled for dip
> pens only, and specifically marked as unsuitable for fountain pens.
Diamine make a "Registrar's Ink". Despite being an iron gall based ink
it's recommended for use in fountain pens. I've used it and it does no
harm provided you flush the pen once in a while.
I was a registrar for many years and the ink issued to us - which they
insisted we use to the exclusion of anything else - was Parker Quink
Permanent Black. It did seem to be pretty permanent but that was at least
partly due to the quality of the paper used for registers and extracts.
Registration - in Scotland at least - is now computer-based, though there
may be a small office or two that still completes entries by pen. I held
the registers for my area back to 1855. The older entries were in
wonderful copperplate which I envied but could not hope to emulate.
--
Sem
Adam Funk
> to give it a try. We bought a fairly nice set with multiple
> calligraphy style dip pens and inks and the labels on the inks would
> have you think that they were the most permanent thing ever made by
> man. Except in the instructions they said that if you planned to use
> the set to do envelopes for wedding invitations, you should buy one of
> their envelope sprays or washes that prevented smudging in case of wet
> weather or sweaty hands.
Is there any ink that's both suitable for fountain pens and resistant
to rain and wet hands?
Adam Funk
>> Is there any ink that's both suitable for fountain pens and resistant
>> to rain and wet hands?
>
> There is no waterproof fountain pen ink. The ink has to remain soluble
> in water or it would solidify and block the feed channels.
I carefully avoided saying "waterproof"! Is it correct to say that
ink for fountain pens must be water-based?
> That being said different fountain pen inks are more or less resistant
> to water and sun damage. Dr. Greg Clark tested and rated many many inks
> (in many many colors) and published his results in his Ink Book, a
> fantastic reference that is sadly no longer being produced.
How old is this book? Would the information still be relevant? (Not
that it even shows up on abebooks.com!)
> The few times I address an envelope with a fountain pen I spray some
> artist's fixative on after the ink dries. "Few" because my handwriting
> is so horrible I'm ashamed to show it in public.
I'm in the same predicament but I've been trying to improve it (not
much success yet though).
> FWIW I use Schmincke "Aeropump Pastell-Fixativ" because it has no
> aerosol propellant.
That's interesting, thanks.
mz
> On 2007-02-14, j. fabian wrote:
>
>>> Is there any ink that's both suitable for fountain pens and resistant
>>> to rain and wet hands?
>> There is no waterproof fountain pen ink. The ink has to remain soluble
>> in water or it would solidify and block the feed channels.
>
> I carefully avoided saying "waterproof"! Is it correct to say that
> ink for fountain pens must be water-based?
>
Noodler's makes a truly waterproof ink. It is water based and reacts
with celluloid to form a chemical bond. That makes it waterproof on
paper and your cotton shirts. Look for their bulletproof inks.
>
>> That being said different fountain pen inks are more or less resistant
>> to water and sun damage. Dr. Greg Clark tested and rated many many inks
>> (in many many colors) and published his results in his Ink Book, a
>> fantastic reference that is sadly no longer being produced.
>
> How old is this book? Would the information still be relevant? (Not
> that it even shows up on abebooks.com!)
>
Greg's book just went into it's final production. It's
self-published. Check www.inksampler.com to see if any are left.
>
>> FWIW I use Schmincke "Aeropump Pastell-Fixativ" because it has no
>> aerosol propellant.
>
> That's interesting, thanks.
From my experience, a fixative is unnecessary for mail. Some
letters sent and received have had addresses smeared from
precipitation but none have been illegible.
HTH,
Mark Z.
Curtis L. Russell
<mz@dislikes_spam_very_much.infomagic.net> wrote:
> From my experience, a fixative is unnecessary for mail. Some
>letters sent and received have had addresses smeared from
>precipitation but none have been illegible.
I think we can leave a different standard for wedding invitaitons. I
also received an invitation to an event that had a handwritten
envelope and a wax seal - placed inside a slightly larger computer
addressed envelope. (I couldn't afford to go, BTW - the price matched
the invitation.)
And the seal was still a bit smushed. I'm guessing the U.S. Post
Office and their modern equipment are less than tradition friendly.
Juhapekka Tolvanen
Adam Funk <a24...@yahoo.com> writes:
> Is there any ink that's both suitable for fountain pens and resistant
> to rain and wet hands?
If that's all you need, there are many possibilities, but at least
Pelikan Fount India may be one of the most safe of them. I have had it
in my Pelikan Steno from summer 2005 and that pen still works fine.
If you want your writing to be fraud-proof, too, you'd better get one
of those so called "bullet-proof" inks by Noodler's Ink. It reacts with
cellulose so that it binds to its fibers. It is not possible to remove
that ink from paper without destroying the paper itself.
--
Juhapekka "naula" Tolvanen * * http colon slash slash iki dot fi slash juhtolv
"Sex ist ein Schlacht. Liebe ist Krieg. Wollt ihr das Bett in Flammen sehen?
Wollt ihr in Haut und Haaren untergehen? Ihr wollt doch auch den Dolch ins
Laken stecken. Ihr wollt doch auch das Blut vom Degen lecken." Rammstein
Adam Funk
>> Is there any ink that's both suitable for fountain pens and resistant
>> to rain and wet hands?
>
> If that's all you need, there are many possibilities, but at least
> Pelikan Fount India may be one of the most safe of them. I have had it
> in my Pelikan Steno from summer 2005 and that pen still works fine.
>
> If you want your writing to be fraud-proof, too, you'd better get one
> of those so called "bullet-proof" inks by Noodler's Ink. It reacts with
> cellulose so that it binds to its fibers. It is not possible to remove
> that ink from paper without destroying the paper itself.
Interesting, thanks.
The Visitor
mz wrote:
> Noodler's makes a truly waterproof ink. It is water based and reacts
> with celluloid to form a chemical bond. That makes it waterproof on
> paper and your cotton shirts. Look for their bulletproof inks.
>
Here is a link for any who may not know.
John