Which blue ink is best? Aurora, Pelikan, Sheaffer
Ken Gibson
now. Should I try the Aurora, Pelikan, Sheaffer or other brand?
Ken Gibson
john cline ii
"Ken Gibson" wrote:
Yes. And Waterman and Parker Quink and Private Reserve....
And then why stop at blue? Try blue black, red, turquoise, purple,
heck, even ORANGE!
giggle
john cline ii who thinks trying is half the fun....
Olivier H. Mionnet
If so, you are not alone: see the following
quotation from www.pendemonium.com:
"Their [Aurora] line of fountain pen inks
consists of only two colors, but they are two
of the most vibrant and true colors we have
found thus far! The black is one of the
darkest, a true black and the blue is a rich,
deep royal blue."
However, feel free to try as much
brands/colors as you can.
Olivier
Ken Gibson wrote:
> I have used the Aurora black and like it very well. I need some blue ink
> now. Should I try the Aurora, Pelikan, Sheaffer or other brand?
>
> Ken Gibson
Christopher B Hamlin
>
> I have used the Aurora black and like it very well. I need some blue ink
> now. Should I try the Aurora, Pelikan, Sheaffer or other brand?
>
> Ken Gibson
My opinion: definitely try the Aurora.
ch
Joel
Quink is pretty much it, but it isn't very saturated. Private Reserve's Lake
Placid Blue looks to me to be about the best basic blue of the ones I have seen.
Now the question: I have heard many people say that Aurora Blue is the "truest
blue" or whatever--and the Waterman's Florida Blue is the best "basic" blue--I
don't get it . BOTH of these inks look purple to me . Not purple like Tanzenite
or other inks that are admittedly purple--I mean that they have a purple cast or
leaning. Definately not what I would think of as a basic, good BLUE. An
INTERESTING blue, perhaps, but not really blue.
Any thoughts?
so what
>Yes. And Waterman and Parker Quink and Private Reserve....
>
>And then why stop at blue? Try blue black, red, turquoise, purple,
>heck, even ORANGE!
>
>giggle
>
now, jc, the nice man was talking about ink, not *hair*!
hehehehehe!
satrap
considering orange and red stripes...
JOrth51
But, my favorite blue is...Parker Penman Sapphire. But, I commit one pen
(Parker 45) to it and it shall run blue forever.
Jason
remove 'nospam' for an e-mail reply
john cline ii
"JOrth51" wrote:
> Interesting. I agree that Waterman Florida Blue has a tinge of
purple to it.
> But, my favorite blue is...Parker Penman Sapphire. But, I commit one
pen
> (Parker 45) to it and it shall run blue forever.
But, unfortunately in your case, the Penman won't....
john cline ii who wonders how you feel about a nice Quink....
john cline ii
"so what" wrote :
> john cline eye-eye said:
>
> >Yes. And Waterman and Parker Quink and Private Reserve....
> >
> >And then why stop at blue? Try blue black, red, turquoise, purple,
> >heck, even ORANGE!
> >
> >giggle
> >
>
> now, jc, the nice man was talking about ink, not *hair*!
> hehehehehe!
Beware the Waterman. With its funky odour, in your hair (or anyone
else's!), I doubt it incites: "Gee, your hair smells terrific!"
john cline ii who is of a certain age.....
Olivier H. Mionnet
I like Aurora blue, my Aurora 88 P (not the "new" 88) likes it. That's all for both
of us.
Anybody knows the Pantone system, instead?
It could be possible to attribute the appropriate Pantone number to the ink colors?
That system could be not the appropriate one (as far as I know it was intended for
printing inks), but could be more accessible than other system to classificate ink
colors.
Many thanks in advance for an answer to the above question.
JOrth51
Good point, John. Unfortunately with the way Parkers dry out after lack of use,
I say that the 45 will run blue forever, because I doubt I'll ever clean the
dried Penman fully out of it :-)
Quink has it's place, and I like it in some of my pens, I like the "antique"
look it delivers. However Penman's what I go for when I want a more rich blue,
but ONLY in the 45.
I've started to gain an affinity for Sheaffer Skrip Blue. It seems more
saturated to me than before. Have they changed the formula?
john cline ii
"JOrth51" wrote in part:
> I've started to gain an affinity for Sheaffer Skrip Blue. It seems
more
> saturated to me than before. Have they changed the formula?
The esteemed Mr. Dubiel says no, but:
* it certainly does SMELL different, and
* I, too, have noticed a much deeper colour intensity than in the
past. I have not tried the "new" black....
john cline ii who wonders, anyone?
Fdu...@aol.com
I realize some folks like to spend their time sniffing ink. Others
sniff flowers, some sniff bycycle seats. (Sorry--Low blow, but too
darn easy to pass up. LOL) But I see no great difference in the smell
of Skrip. Yeah its a little different and I've explained possible
reasons before. At any rate, I can only pass on what Sheaffer says--its
the same stuff. Do I know it for a fact? No, but all Sheaffer people
say so. It does appear Sheaffer closed down their huge ink plant some
years ago and moved production, but again they insist its the same ink.
The old plant was one of the largest ink making facalities on earth and
had 100 times the capacity needed today. Older ink is often weaker just
due to age. Some extra faded ink pails with age due to the chroline in
all water which bleaches the color. Sheaffer and all good ink watch
chroline content carefully to reduce the problem, but there is still
some gradual fading over many decades with most ink. Lousy new ink may
fade from the chlroine in water in a few years--and thats been reported
with many brands of poor current ink which is another example of the
lack of QC with many inks today. Fading may be offset by evaporation of
the water base which strenghtens color--so the two may or may not
balance out. But in an air tight glass bottle the SLOW gradual chlorine
effect may win out--but I repeat its a very slight process taking many
years and decades and I've almost never seen any Skrip or Quink that was
so weak as to be unusable even if 75 years old. Light naturally can
also fade most any ink. Frank
Christopher B Hamlin
>
> Personally, I am not really worried about the tone the Aurora blue
> looks like.
>
> I like Aurora blue, my Aurora 88 P (not the "new" 88) likes it.
> That's all for both of us.
Yes, same for me, that's why I recommended it earlier. But
then I thought that maybe someone would want a better idea
of what it looks like beforehand.
>
> Anybody knows the Pantone system, instead?
>
> It could be possible to attribute the appropriate Pantone number to the ink colors?
>
> That system could be not the appropriate one (as far as I know it was intended for
> printing inks), but could be more accessible than other system to classificate ink
> colors.
>
> Many thanks in advance for an answer to the above question.
>
Can't answer that one, but I was in a jewelry store recently and
saw some stones that turned out to be synthetic Tanzanite. They
were a really dark blue (the jeweler called them purple) and looked
a LOT like Aurora Blue.
Chris Hamlin
rjg
>> Anybody knows the Pantone system, instead?
>>
I don't, what is it?
TIA
Olivier H. Mionnet
about a system to classify colours.
I am really intrigued by the "Ink Sampler" (I am saving money for it, and for "Da Book",
of course), and I believe that this is the only appropriate way to classify fountain pen
inks.
In my opinion, the best possible definition for the color of the Skrip Jet Black ink is
(ceteris paribus): Skrip Jet Black.
However, I was told that there are several systems to classify colors, being the
"Pantone" the most widespread one, aimed to classify printing inks: every colour is
identified by a number, just provide two different typographer with the number of the
color you need and they will print the same color.
But I am not a typographer, and I don't know the way such a classification works (and if
it could works with our inks: so, the question).
Olivier
Olivier H. Mionnet
Olivier
Fdu...@aol.com
>
> However, I was told that there are several systems to classify colors, being the
> "Pantone" the most widespread one, aimed to classify printing inks: every colour is
> identified by a number, just provide two different typographer with the number of the
> color you need and they will print the same color.
> But I am not a typographer, and I don't know the way such a classification works (and if
> it could works with our inks: so, the question).
>
I guarantee there is not now nor can they ever be a system that works
with founatin pen inks. Simply because no fountain pen ink on earth
either then or now has anywhere near the lab quality control of color
shades of master dyes and high quality printing inks. In my 20 years in
the ink and dye industry I held the title of "master colorist" for about
5 years and saw dozens of standards for color come and go. Pantone is
perhaps the most popular but is still one system of many. None are
totally reliable, and many colors remain miles off their stated
standard. Remember color temperture also applies--i.e the color temp of
a computer monitor screen will have CONSIDERABLE effect on its colors.
At any rate I never heard of any liquid ink (as oposed to printing inks
or dyes) that even attempted to apply itself to any standard. No
fountain pen ink has even been made under lab conditions--as I've said
before, its basically colored water. Sure a given ink may be made from
a set receipe that gives a certain color--but that color will vary
WIDELY, esp if measured under lab conditions--i.e with a spectrometer
for example. Bottom line--as I've also said so many times--this isn't
rocket science. Some may want to upgrade pens/inks to that level--but
tell that to the low waged guy dumping the dye by the (perhaps not so
clean) coffee cup full into the vat of (perhaps not well filtered) water
with a cigrettee dangling from his lips. ...and maybe a few ashes go
into the mix as well. ...and the vat wasn't cleaned that well from the
last batch which may have been a different color ink. No fountain pen
ink is checked for color stability from batch to batch other than a
simple glance by a written or swabbed line by a low level worker. So
with all respect to those that want standards---this is laughable from a
scientific standpoint where colors must be electronically matched under
at least 7 or more different lighting conditions (sunlight, flor, tung,
cloudy day, mercury, etc...) and also human eye matched by at least two
certified colorists who must agree. No fountain pen company has ever
employed a certified colorist as far as I know--and I'd give 10 to one
odds no one ever will. In short--color remains an opinion and ink,
although absurdly overpriced is cheap enough that its even more absurd
to ask--"Gee I need to know exactly what the color is like before I
spend the money?" Simply buy it to find out. Frank
pete_...@my-deja.com
"Ken Gibson" <kgi...@home.com> wrote:
> I have used the Aurora black and like it very well. I need some blue ink
> now. Should I try the Aurora, Pelikan, Sheaffer or other brand?
>
> Ken Gibson
>
>
much of a purple component as the Aurora or the washed out quality of the
sheaffer. Try Yard-O-Led blue. It's a very cool light blue but not
turquoise like Waterman south sea blue. Delta's Venezia and Omas'
Bernini blue are also good colors. The YOL may be a little light, but
perhaps adding a drop or 2 of black would give it better depth. Penman
Sapphire has always been my favorite shade, but it's becoming more and
more scarce. It is decidedly blue with a hint of turquoise.
-Pete
--
Visit the best pen store on the web!
http://www.finepensonline.com
or call 1-800-987-PENS (7367)
M-F 10-5 or email ser...@finepensonline.com
Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Before you buy.
Olivier H. Mionnet
your authoritative answer reinforces my opinion about the "Ink Sampler" (it fits better our
needs).
Thank you again.
Olivier.
Fdu...@aol.com wrote:
> I guarantee there is not now nor can they ever be a system that works
> with founatin pen inks....