R-85 losing 'home', playing wrong selection
Old School Al
I cleaned the optical switch and tried to adjust it per the manual. It
plays fine right after that for the remainder of the night and plays
the correct selection. Then once turned off and back on at a later
time it goes back to playing the wrong selections again and I adjust
it again and it's fine for the evening.
Any thoughts on what part might need to be replaced or what other
adjustment I could be missing?
Al
kreed
These do fail, become intermittent, and the only cure is replacement.
However, you could have something strange like fluctuating LED supply
voltage, bad earth on the receiver end etc.
My money would be on the optical device itself, or some temperature
sensitive component on the mech control board associated with reading
these signals (it might stabilise in the time you take to do the
adjustment as it "warms up" and might make you think that the
adjustment is what is fixing it). to prove this theory, leave the
machine on for 30 mins or so, and see if it comes good by itself.
if so, replace the IC (339?) that the opto receivers connect to
Alan Hood
Hi Al,
The R-85 jukebox was subject to dry joints (cold joints USA) on all of
the connection pins of the boards.
I would check these out from the power supply pcb onto the rest of the
boards.
You may find out that if you check the battery on the CCC that it will
be low (with the power off) it should be 2.4 volts DC.
Regards
Alan Hood (ami-man)
UK
--
Alan Hood
Old School Al
outcome.
I had reflowed the solder on the mech control board pins, but no joy.
I will do likewise on the other board and check the battery. Then move
on to to the other items you mentioned if no success there.
BTW, who do you suggest buying parts from for jukes of this vintage?
Al
Old School Al
it turned out to be the battery on the CCC. It_appeared_to be conneted
but upon closer inspection the negative lead was simply resting on the
battery so I soldered it on. Also reflowed board connectors while I
had it off. Also, checked the battery voltage and it was 2.5v. All
appears to be well now, thanks again.
On Jan 29, 4:49 am, Alan Hood <Alan.Hood.680f...@collectingbanter.com>
wrote:
kreed
> Thanks for the tips, guys. Finally got around to checking it out and
> it turned out to be the battery on the CCC. It_appeared_to be conneted
> but upon closer inspection the negative lead was simply resting on the
> battery so I soldered it on. Also reflowed board connectors while I
> had it off. Also, checked the battery voltage and it was 2.5v. All
> appears to be well now, thanks again.
>
If it is one of those black rectangular NI cad things, get rid of it
quick, or mount it on leads well away from the board
if you dont it will leak, corrode the tracks and you dont need that.
IF you MUST have it on the board, get a lithium 1/2 AA cell and mount
it on the board, making certain you use an 1n400x diode in series with
the battery. (this MUST be done, to reduce the 3v supply to 2.4 and
also to prevent the lithium from being recharged.
Lithium's dont seem to leak that I have seen
PCB + terminal ----------I<I----------+ lithium battery -
--------------- pcb - terminal
striped end / unstriped end
While I could be wrong, I would be concerned with a diagnosis of a
dead or missing battery as cause of this problem.
In my experience the juke will work fine without a battery (you will
just lose popularity stats and saved selection data at turn off, but
if its a t home you probably don't need this.).
The juke has low battery detection, and if activated, this should
cause the program to wipe the memory (in the 5101s) at turn-on.
Alan Hood
Old School Al;643107 Wrote:
> Thanks for the tips, guys. Finally got around to checking it out and
> it turned out to be the battery on the CCC. It_appeared_to be conneted
> but upon closer inspection the negative lead was simply resting on the
> battery so I soldered it on. Also reflowed board connectors while I
> had it off. Also, checked the battery voltage and it was 2.5v. All
> appears to be well now, thanks again.
>
> wrote:-
> Old School Al;642320 Wrote:
> I have this juke and recently it started to play the wrong
> selection.
> I cleaned the optical switch and tried to adjust it per the manual.
> It
> plays fine right after that for the remainder of the night and plays
> the correct selection. Then once turned off and back on at a later
> time it goes back to playing the wrong selections again and I adjust
> -
> Any thoughts on what part might need to be replaced or what other
> -
> Al-
>
> Hi Al,
>
> The R-85 jukebox was subject to dry joints (cold joints USA) on all
> of
> the connection pins of the boards.
> I would check these out from the power supply pcb onto the rest of
> the
> boards.
> You may find out that if you check the battery on the CCC that it
> will
> be low (with the power off) it should be 2.4 volts DC.
>
> Regards
> Alan Hood (ami-man)
> UK
>
> --
Hi Al,
Glad to hear that you have sorted out your jukebox.
I suggest that while you are in a fixing mode that you check out the
the Pricing Board (all lines of data go through this board) and the
Power supply for dry joints as well.
Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
--
Alan Hood
Old School Al
cylinder type) but there is no diode inline with it. Which end does
the diode go on and what end of the diode? I could not totally
understand the ASCII drawing.
I will also reflow the pricing board. Since I don't use that (keep the
unit on test for free play) I ignored it but if you think that may
come into play I will.
Al
kreed
The pricing board is part of the switch matrix, while its unlikely to
cause problems, if values are changing due to dry joints, it could
cause problems elsewhere.
> Al
The diode goes in series with the battery.
disconnect the + terminal of the battery from the board, put the
striped end of the diode onto the + terminal of the board and the
unstriped terminal of the diode onto the + terminal of the battery.
The negative terminal of the battery is left connected to the board.
Note that this is done with 3v lithium batteries that we use here.
(will also reduce the 3v to 2.4).
In your case, if the battery is a lithium already and has 2.4v across
it, then it is probably ok to leave it as it is, but if it isn't a
rechargeable lithium (most aren't) the battery charging circuit should
be disabled.
For both type of ROWE AMI of CCC boards used in this model transistor
Q114 must be removed to achieve this. This is important as normal
lithium batteries are NOT meant to be recharged. While I havent tried
it, they may rupture or explode if charged.
Alan Hood
kreed;643146 Wrote:
> On Feb 9, 4:02*am, Old School Al kueste...@gmail.com wrote:-
> The battery I have on there appears to be a 1/2 lithium (small white
> cylinder type) but there is no diode inline with it. Which end does
> the diode go on and what end of the diode? I could not totally
> understand the ASCII drawing.
>
> I will also reflow the pricing board. Since I don't use that (keep
> the
> unit on test for free play) I ignored it but if you think that may
> come into play I will.
>
> The pricing board is part of the switch matrix, while its unlikely to
> cause problems, if values are changing due to dry joints, it could
> cause problems elsewhere.
> Al-
>
> The diode goes in series with the battery.
>
> disconnect the + terminal of the battery from the board, put the
> striped end of the diode onto the + terminal of the board and the
> unstriped terminal of the diode onto the + terminal of the battery.
> The negative terminal of the battery is left connected to the board.
> Note that this is done with 3v lithium batteries that we use here.
> (will also reduce the 3v to 2.4).
>
>
> In your case, if the battery is a lithium already and has 2.4v across
> it, then it is probably ok to leave it as it is, but if it isn't a
> rechargeable lithium (most aren't) the battery charging circuit should
> be disabled.
>
> For both type of ROWE AMI of CCC boards used in this model transistor
> Q114 must be removed to achieve this. This is important as normal
> lithium batteries are NOT meant to be recharged. While I havent tried
> it, they may rupture or explode if charged.
Hi Al,
Just get a Varta 2.4 volt rechagable cell and replace the old one you
had in circuit.
Old School Al
Turn the unit on and play a song, wroong selection plays. After a
couple wrong selections play it then starts playing the correct
selection. Sorta like it warmed up, I guess. Does this indicate a
certain part I should be focusing on?
Old School Al
unresolved. Done. :)
> > Al- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
Tony
I forget if that box has an led that flashes as it scans? If so, does
it flash when not working and scanning with the scan switch? Besides
that, the optic couplers often go bad so if it's intermittent, that
would be the first thing to change, assuming you checked the cables and
connections.
Tony
Old School Al
record.
I have a new optical switch on order and will see what this does for
me.
> Tony- Hide quoted text -
Tony
> LED does flash while the carousel is turning to select the next
> record.
>
> I have a new optical switch on order and will see what this does for
> me.
If you remove the opto board check the solder connections for cracks,
mainly where the pins for the cable attaches. And now that I think of
it, Rowe CCC boards (and all their circuit boards) are notorious for
cracked solder connections on all the plug pins.
Tony
Old School Al
in thread).
I have the new optical switch in there and things seems to be better
now.
Tony
> Yea, I had reflowed solder on all boards previously (see earlier posts
> in thread).
>
> I have the new optical switch in there and things seems to be better
> now.
Good to hear. Hope you got it.
kreed
All their boards are good for this. Re soldering is a must.
Replacing the pins in the 2.54mm plug housings they use is also
advisable.
Even though it is too late now you have bought the opto, for the info
of others on here,
the actual opto switch itself is available from Farnell for about
$12. (we bought in 50+ quantities at the time).
The part from our ROWE distributor including the bracket and harness
was over $100.
Old School Al
I checked that Farnell site and finding that part without a part
number would be difficult.
kreed
> I didn't pay $100 but a lot more than $12.
>
> I checked that Farnell site and finding that part without a part
> number would be difficult.
>
I can have a look for the number, should still have the bag with some
unused ones in there.
We don't use them now, pretty much all of our ROWE were converted
to digital . All the internals were junked except for the Amp, power
supply,
Central control computer, coin gear which were re-used in the digital
conversion.
Tony
I've used generic surplus ones for less than $1 that worked just fine.
It's been years so no I don't have the info for them anymore.
Actually one time in a bind, I cut and pulled the IR LED from a
different style U shaped sensor and used it to replace the led in the
original one.