Hi Bob,
The jukebox if need be can be transported on its back, however you need
to lock everthing down. Loook on your friends manual fo a guide how to
do this it should be similar. If any of the boards can not be locked
down then take them out of the jukebox.
You can get a manual or manuals from www.victoryglass.com
60-1126 SPECIAL OFFER: purchase both R-273 and R-329 for
$59.95
60-1125 AY100 and AY160 Series - Trouble Shooting Guide, R-329, 54
pages
$27.50
60-1124 AY100 and AY160/IO Service and parts manual, R273, 186 pages
$39.50
Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
--
Alan Hood
At the left and right side of the mech , it will be floating on springs.
Snug those bolts down but don't over do it. Make sure to remove all
records also. I think that's about it but it's been awhile since I was
inside one.
> Oh, the seller also said the amp was rebuilt and speakers were
> replaced.
Hopefully he meant "reconed" and not "replaced". The chances of him
buying replacement speakers that will sound good in that cabinet is slim
to none and it may not ever sound as good as it once did. If it becomes
an issue I'm sure the originals can be found, and reconed if needed.
Maybe ask him if he saved the originals?
Mechanism looks for the record but doesn't place it in the
> head.
If the unit next to the amp, the receiver, hasn't been rebuilt, it will
need it. There are other possible problems but before it burns up a
transformer, rebuild the receiver first if it's not done
Machine looks real good and has new glass and medallions. Just
> need to repaint the sides and then line it as the originals had. Is
> painting the lines on the sides a good way to do this or are there
> side panels with the white lines available? Sorry for the long post
> but had lots of questions. Thanks for any help you can provide.
> Bob
The best AY paint job I've seen was to repair and paint the sides white
first, then tape and spray the black. I don't know why the guy did it
this way but it looked brand new, maybe better than new! And you will
need a real paint sprayer, not spray cans.
If you must lay it down, I recommend taking the mechanism out of it
first. It's not hard, you'll need a 1/4" nutdriver to open the back
access panel. First, from the front, remove the records, and use a wad
of foam or newspaper or some blue painter's masking tape to keep the
tonearm from flapping about. Unscrew the retaining screws for the rear
upper panel, swing it up on the hinge and use the attached retaining
strap to keep it up. Unplug the two fat cables that go down through the
hole in the cabinet from the selection receiver (the plugs are in the
bottom cabinet). Pull the two retaining pins in the slide rails under
the mech. Slide the mech carefully part-way out the back, then you'll
need to move the Masonite cover over the cable hole so you can withdraw
the cables. Once everything is free and clear, carefully extract the
mechanism the rest of the way, then you can set it (always upright!) on
a blanket or some such cushion in your van. One reasonably strong
person can carry this, it's more awkward than heavy, but plan your route
first, so you don't trip! Two people may be better, one to look for
catching cables and such, and help with carrying. Button the back
access panel back up, make SURE the bottom door with the amp/selection
receiver locks securely...it is heavy, and you do NOT want it to swing
open when you tilt the cabinet back (or try to set it up when you get
back home). When you get to your destination, before doing anything
else, take the opportunity while it is on its back to service the
casters. Clean off the mop strings and other gunk, and lube them with
some oil, both the axle and the shank that goes up into the cabinet.
Nothing is worse than fighting with a juke that will not roll where you
want it to go.
Tightening the four bolts in the spring mounts at the corners of the
mechanism bed is necessary if you are going to transport the juke
standing up, since it will keep the mech from bouncing into your glass
dome, but it is not sufficient for laying the juke on its back. The
reason is that those four bolts do nothing to secure the traveling part
of the mechanism from coming off its tracks, and banging up the
traveling contact block for the Tormat, or bending the arm that it rides
on. You probably don't have the special long wing-headed bolt that was
used to go up from the bottom cabinet into the bottom of the mechanism
when it was originally shipped, anyway. Nobody has those, they were
probably tossed when the juke was first set up new. Really, if you must
lay it down, take out the mech.
A friend has an older Seeburg and has a manual
> with it. The playing mechanism looks very similar so this should help
> me. Also, the seller has no manual for it. I've looked on ebay and
> would like opinions about which manual they felt was best overall?
> Oh, the seller also said the amp was rebuilt and speakers were
> replaced. Mechanism looks for the record but doesn't place it in the
> head. Machine looks real good and has new glass and medallions. Just
> need to repaint the sides and then line it as the originals had. Is
> painting the lines on the sides a good way to do this or are there
> side panels with the white lines available? Sorry for the long post
> but had lots of questions. Thanks for any help you can provide.
I repainted my AY-160 with gloss-black automotive lacquer (it probably
was not originally that glossy, but I like it) and then used striping
tape to do the ivory lines (not bright white!). Striping tape is 1"
wide masking tape that can have a 1/16" wide strip lifted out of the
middle of it after it is laid down. It worked pretty good, I probably
should have spent a little more time rubbing the sides out after
painting, as the edges of the stripes are a little raised, but it looks
really nice. The gloss black was done with a spray gun, but the ivory
stripes were done with a spray can. I found a pretty close match to the
metallic blue cabinet interior paint at the local automotive supply in
the touch-up paint section. It took a few cans of that, but was cheaper
than having a quart specially mixed up.
--Bob
Amendment: There is one fat cable and one skinny cable (with an RCA
connector, unplug that one too...) that go through the big hole covered
with Masonite. The other fat cable goes through a round hole that is
*just* bigger than the connector that must pass through it. It is
normally stoppered with a rubber plug that the cable passes through.
--Bob
So, did you pick it up? How did it go?
--Bob
Hi Bob,
Yes, I picked it up and secured it as suggested. I had no problems
at all getting it home to Springfield, MO, about 3 hrs from nearby St.
Louis. We did try to energize it before securing it and it was in
"play" mode. Loaded a record and "clamped" it [is that the right
term?] but didn't play it. Released it and the cycle started again
and again until we turned it off. I looked for the safety plunger and
it didn't look like it was hitting anything. I ordered a manual and
it's waiting for me at the post office so I'll start reading it
tomorrow. I want to try and get it into scan mode to see if it
somehow resets. Am I looking for the "detent relay" and can it be
reset without being energized to get the mech into scan mode? Looking
forward to my first jukebox restoration. Hope it goes easy.
Bob