Foundation problems in home
jewelee
through out the ceiling, some corners, one about 7 feet long in my
floor tile, and one in the grout that seems to run in the area of the
sewer line in one of the bathrooms. Our builder says this is normal
settlement. The one 7 foot long in the floor tile has gotten bigger
in the last couple of months. When you run your finger across the
crack, one side is higher than the other side. The builder is willing
to replace the floor tile, but my concern is the actual foundation.
We don't have any Control Joints in the foundation. The builder says
we don't need them. We also don't have any wire in the foundation.
They said they used fibermesh instead, however, it is not listed on
the invoice. I was told by another company that if they used the
correct mixture, that our foundation should have looked "hairy". I
asked the builder for a set of "Engineered Plans", but he said he
didn't have it Engineered. He said that as long as you go by the
Uniform Building Code that you don't have to have it Engineered. I'd
like to know if any of what he has said and done is correct. Thank
you
Jimmy Galvin
Houses along with all structures settle. You need to be more specific about
the cracking. "cracks through out the ceiling" doesn't tell much. Some
should be expected and repaired by the builder. When the tile is replaced
that should solve that problem. It probably wont crack again. You generally
don't have Control Joints in the foundation but sometimes cuts are in the
slab to control cracking. You still have the cracks but they are in the cut
and out of sight. If fiber mesh was used in the slab it would have looked
"hairy" until the fibers were worn off. Misting the floor will show them
after that.It is easy to see if they are there. There probably was no need
to have your house Engineered.
"jewelee" <jew...@air-internet.com> wrote in message
news:8abc2f74.03010...@posting.google.com...
Don Linsenbach
Ask the builder to provide proof that he adhered to the code.
Used fibermesh in my driveway.....never again, it is certainly *hairy*
(looks like cotton balls) and traps debris.
You may need to hire an engineer to give you a structural analysis of your
concerns.
Don Linsenbach
> There probably was no need
> to have your house Engineered.
Depends on location. Just about everything has to be engineered in SW FL.
BP
in September. Fairly large cracks in the cathedral ceiling where the 2
joints at the peak are (I used structural collar ties). We framed this thing
in July during one of the hottest, most humid summers on record, I used
2x12's for rafters (for insulation, not span), and it is now a cold, dry
winter. Not much to think about there. The pleasures of working with wood!
Concrete has similar problems: pour in the heat and it will dry too fast,
pour in the cold and it doesn't set up optimally. To do perfect work you
would need to wait for perfect conditions for every phase of construction,
and the project would span many, many months. (That actually wouldn't be so
bad, would it, builders: we could play golf until the correct relative
humidity was detected, provided of course that the customer was willing to
pay us for all of this waiting!)
"Jimmy Galvin" <james....@mags.net> wrote in message
news:CapR9.821$qKw4.1...@news2.randori.com...
: We certainly are getting a lot of cracking posts lately. Winter, I guess.
: >
:
:
Reggie Q. Peckerwood
framing acclimates, but I'd be very concerned about the slab cracking to the
extent it apparently is. We don't see many slabs on grade here but I can't
imagine using fibermesh on anything bigger than something like a spa slab.
Does the local code in your area allow the omission of metal? You might
want to check this out. Is this ceramic tile that is a different
elevations? just how is this going to be repaired short of placing new mud
bed or tile backer laminated to the existing tile underlayment? Let us
know.
"jewelee" <jew...@air-internet.com> wrote in message
news:8abc2f74.03010...@posting.google.com...
Donald Lee Phillips, Jr., P.E.
What is said and what is done are not always the same thing.
Sincerely,
Donald Lee Phillips, Jr., P.E.
Worthington Engineering, Inc.
145 Greenglade Avenue
Worthington, OH 43085-2264
dphi...@worthingtonNSengineering.com
(remove NS to use the address)
614.937.0463 voice
208.975.1011 fax
http://worthingtonengineering.com
Donald Lee Phillips, Jr., P.E.
news:3e162...@binaries.vphos.net...
You should have a Certificate of Occupancy from the local building
department or at least the sign-off sheet showing temporary or permanent
occupancy was granted. It least it tells you someone was looking to ensure
things met code.
Jimmy Galvin
is not engineered. We have stable soil and ledge mostly and your standard
foundations work fine. So I guess it all according what the local practice
calls for. Also Don what is with all these weird twists on your name? You
piss off someone?news:3e165...@binaries.vphos.net...
Don Linsenbach
"Donald Lee Phillips, Jr., P.E." <dphi...@worthingtonNSengineering.com>
wrote in message news:YTFR9.16836$GF.78...@twister.columbus.rr.com...
Barely, if that.
Having recently gone through a CO I know for a fact that not all things are
checked.
Don Linsenbach
> Yes that is the way it is done in SW FL but in CT your garden variety
house
> is not engineered. We have stable soil and ledge mostly and your standard
> foundations work fine. So I guess it all according what the local practice
> calls for.
Thats what I meant when I said *Depends on location*.
Also Don what is with all these weird twists on your name? You
> piss off someone?
Yeah, I guess.
He's been following me in other groups too.
I think it started when that whiney renter was complaining about mold a
couple weeks ago.
Have you noticed who hasn't been around here lately ?
Hmmmmm.......I wonder......
> "Don Linsenbach"> wrote
jewelee
I'm sorry it's taken me so long to get back here.
Some of the ceiling cracks are where the wall and ceiling meet, but
the ones we are concerned about are in the ceiling not connected to
anything. Some of them look like they might be where the two sheets
of drywall meet. Some of the ceiling cracks that are not connected to
anything have been repaired, but they re-cracked.
As far as the long crack in the floor tile, it has gotten a little
wider, and is just recently higher on one side. The builder wants to
put a "slip sheet" under the new tile so that it won't recrack. But I
don't see how that can fix the problem, and I think it's important to
find out why it's cracking.
I'm concerned about our slab because it did not look "hairy". Also,
our soils report says that we should have control joints. Our builder
told me they didn't do it because we don't need them.
I live in a town that didn't even have building codes until 2000, and
I literally watched an inspector walk in, asked where the plans were,
sign them, and walked out. So, I'm not sure that the "building
department" will be of much help.
Thank you all for your help.
Jimmy Galvin
news:<8abc2f74.03010...@posting.google.com>...
> > Our house was finished a little over a year ago. We now have cracks
> > through out the ceiling, some corners, one about 7 feet long in my
> > floor tile, and one in the grout that seems to run in the area of the
> > sewer line in one of the bathrooms. Our builder says this is normal
> > settlement. The one 7 foot long in the floor tile has gotten bigger
> > in the last couple of months. When you run your finger across the
> > crack, one side is higher than the other side. The builder is willing
> > to replace the floor tile, but my concern is the actual foundation.
> > We don't have any Control Joints in the foundation.
It is too late for control joints to be installed so lets move on. Do you
have cracks in the slab?
The builder says
> > we don't need them. We also don't have any wire in the foundation.
> > They said they used fibermesh instead, however, it is not listed on
> > the invoice. I was told by another company that if they used the
> > correct mixture, that our foundation should have looked "hairy".
Try misting the floor with water wipe with a rag and then remist to see the
fiber mesh. If you don't have fiber mesh again it is too late. You might try
getting a credit or hold it over the builder for leverage to get the rest
repaired.
I asked the builder for a set of "Engineered Plans", but he said he
> > didn't have it Engineered. He said that as long as you go by the
> > Uniform Building Code that you don't have to have it Engineered. I'd
> > like to know if any of what he has said and done is correct. Thank
> > you
>
> I'm sorry it's taken me so long to get back here.
> Some of the ceiling cracks are where the wall and ceiling meet, but
> the ones we are concerned about are in the ceiling not connected to
> anything. Some of them look like they might be where the two sheets
> of drywall meet. Some of the ceiling cracks that are not connected to
> anything have been repaired, but they re-cracked.
This could be that one of the sheets did not fall on a stud or joist and is
loose. Taping will not hold it in place. Dig out the joint to see if it is
attached properly.
> As far as the long crack in the floor tile, it has gotten a little
> wider, and is just recently higher on one side. The builder wants to
> put a "slip sheet" under the new tile so that it won't recrack. But I
> don't see how that can fix the problem, and I think it's important to
> find out why it's cracking.
I am assumeing the tile is on a wood floor. The floor is drying and moving.
Let him fix it and see what happens.
BugHunter
There was a lot of fiberglass in it. I dipped my fingers into it numerous
times as was it was coming off the truck. You could not miss it and the
amount was consistent in each sample.
My concrete man said that it would finish hairy, but other than a very small
spot where the fiber clumped near the surface, the finished floor surface
looks just like any finished concrete floor. I can't detect any "hair" by
looking at it other than at that one small spot. (this is observing from a
standing position) They did a careful burned finish with a power trowel,
which may have minimized any visible hairy effect.
Maybe if I looked closer, got down on my hands and knees I could see it.
My contractor suggested that the fiber was preferable to mesh. It provides a
more consistent reinforcement. I'm inclined to believe that it is superior
if the concrete company properly mixes it and the finisher does a careful
job of burning it.
My point is that you may have to look very closely to see any fiber.
If there is any spatter or waste concrete, you might try crushing some with
a hammer to look for fiber.
jewelee
> "jewelee" <jew...@air-internet.com> wrote in message
> news:8abc2f74.03010...@posting.google.com...
> > jew...@air-internet.com (jewelee) wrote in message
> news:<8abc2f74.03010...@posting.google.com>...
> > > Our house was finished a little over a year ago. We now have cracks
> > > through out the ceiling, some corners, one about 7 feet long in my
> > > floor tile, and one in the grout that seems to run in the area of the
> > > sewer line in one of the bathrooms. Our builder says this is normal
> > > settlement. The one 7 foot long in the floor tile has gotten bigger
> > > in the last couple of months. When you run your finger across the
> > > crack, one side is higher than the other side. The builder is willing
> > > to replace the floor tile, but my concern is the actual foundation.
> > > We don't have any Control Joints in the foundation.
>
> It is too late for control joints to be installed so lets move on. Do you
> have cracks in the slab?
It looks like we have cracks outside, but since we have stucco (which
is also cracked everywhere) the stucco is on the slab too. So, there
is no visable area for us to really check the slab itself.
> The builder says
> > > we don't need them. We also don't have any wire in the foundation.
> > > They said they used fibermesh instead, however, it is not listed on
> > > the invoice. I was told by another company that if they used the
> > > correct mixture, that our foundation should have looked "hairy".
>
> Try misting the floor with water wipe with a rag and then remist to see the
> fiber mesh. If you don't have fiber mesh again it is too late. You might try
> getting a credit or hold it over the builder for leverage to get the rest
> repaired.
> Again, there is no visable area of the slab for us to check. I guess we could pull up part of our carpet, but I really hate to do that. But, we were here after the slab was poured. And, I'm sure there was nothing hairy looking!
> I asked the builder for a set of "Engineered Plans", but he said he
> > > didn't have it Engineered. He said that as long as you go by the
> > > Uniform Building Code that you don't have to have it Engineered. I'd
> > > like to know if any of what he has said and done is correct. Thank
> > > you
> >
> > I'm sorry it's taken me so long to get back here.
> > Some of the ceiling cracks are where the wall and ceiling meet, but
> > the ones we are concerned about are in the ceiling not connected to
> > anything. Some of them look like they might be where the two sheets
> > of drywall meet. Some of the ceiling cracks that are not connected to
> > anything have been repaired, but they re-cracked.
>
> This could be that one of the sheets did not fall on a stud or joist and is
> loose. Taping will not hold it in place. Dig out the joint to see if it is
> attached properly.
>
> > As far as the long crack in the floor tile, it has gotten a little
> > wider, and is just recently higher on one side. The builder wants to
> > put a "slip sheet" under the new tile so that it won't recrack. But I
> > don't see how that can fix the problem, and I think it's important to
> > find out why it's cracking.
>
> I am assumeing the tile is on a wood floor. The floor is drying and moving.
> Let him fix it and see what happens.
> We do not have a wood foor. We have concrete, then tile/carpet.
> > I'm concerned about our slab because it did not look "hairy". Also,
> > our soils report says that we should have control joints. Our builder
> > told me they didn't do it because we don't need them.
> > I live in a town that didn't even have building codes until 2000, and
> > I literally watched an inspector walk in, asked where the plans were,
> > sign them, and walked out. So, I'm not sure that the "building
> > department" will be of much help.
Our slab in aprox. 61 X 61. If we don't have any type of
re-inforcment (fibermesh), and no saw cuts, just a slab of concrete,
my fear is that our home will eventually become worthless. There are
several homes out here that have litterally "broke into peices", and
were condemed. One of those homes is less than a mile from us. So,
if our slab was not done properly, and we are taking a chance of the
same thing happening, I'm not willing to let the builder patch up the
bad spots, and see what happens.
LansingConcreteGuy
wrote:
Ok...I have used fibermesh in many jobs...Used for the right reason and
its a great product...Note it is NOT meant for supporting the slab or
floor any more than wire mesh is..it is meant for slowing down or stopping
cracks in concrete...Next..you should have 1/2 "+ re bar tied and set in
the slab as well as the subgrade well compacted using some form of
gravel,etc if you want better support...Its what's under the Slab that
will tell what will be supported above...I like 6 mill vapor barrier taped
used under my slabs as well for 2 reasons...cut moisture wicking up in the
slab to the warm side and it lets the slab slide as its curing and drying
to cut down on cracks...Now in my opinion a slab used in a home
61'-0"x61'-0" should have been saw cut or joints set in it to control the
cracks as its curing..Example : .You will get up to near 1" movement in a
slab 100"-0" long that's 15"-)" wide..That means it will be shorter after
its cured...Meaning it has to crack and you cure it to cut the cracks as
well as saw cut it...There is a book I have that gives you the lay out of
where to saw cut or set in joints....I hope it was cured after it was
finished ??
Well also remember without seeing your land , area ,plans and knowing how
the contractor did this job, anything we say is only guess work...He was
on the site and must have ability to do the work or you would not have
hired him...What I said may not mean anything to your project as you can
well guess...I have worked as a concrete contractor and home builder over
35 years and made may miss steps myself...The plans and specs can well be
the problem if they don't match the land site used or the job weather,
etc, the installer had to work under...Time of year does make a difference
as well...Some of my work systems I do are based on years of experience
and do come at a higher cost that many don't want to pay for...We are in
business to make money as well as get a good ref. for the next
project...I have seen subs do some very poor work behind the General
Contractor's back as well...That type work hurts us all...
Hope this helps...not trying to get anyone upset...Its easy to speak after
the fact when we don't really have all the facts...Enjoy your new
home...Sounds like this contractor is fixing and dealing with your
problems and that makes him look good to me...Try and work together on
this ....
Lansing
"The probability of one person being right increases in a direct
proportion,
To the intensity with which others try to prove him wrong"
rishavpat...@gmail.com
answer me
PeterD
professional help, and that (even though this is a great group) Internet
assistance isn't going to work.
The house may have significant structural problems.
--
I'm never going to grow up.