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Water damaged drywall replacement

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No Spam

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Jan 4, 2005, 3:01:35 PM1/4/05
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20 year old house - there are some patches of damaged drywall at both
ends of the bathtub. (no, they should not have used drywall there, but
they did)

The patches are about 6" x 12". I need to replace these areas, and I
was considering using either concrete board or 1/2" exterior plywood
instead of drywall.

I have the plywood, so it would be an easy repair, and it would NOT be
another trip to the Borg. The bottom sill is a little dry-rotted from
the water, so the stiffer plywood would also support the baseboards
better.

I will caulk it well, and I already added corner deflectors to the tub.
So I don't really expect these areas to get much moisture in the
future. I'm not looking for a perfect, permanent repair - just something
that will give me another 10-20 years of service. Comments?

Thanks,

Stan

Noozer

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Jan 4, 2005, 4:12:37 PM1/4/05
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"No Spam" <nos...@nospam.com> wrote in message
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> 20 year old house - there are some patches of damaged drywall at both
> ends of the bathtub. (no, they should not have used drywall there, but
> they did)

So why patch it at all? Pull all the drywall around the tub and use cement
board like what should have been there to start with. Might be a good excuse
to update the faucet/look of the tub.


John Smith

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Jan 4, 2005, 4:16:16 PM1/4/05
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Lose your balance once in the tub and the drywall replacement will only have
to be replaced again. Spend the 30 minutes and buy a sheet of cement board.


Lil' Dave

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Jan 5, 2005, 9:12:02 AM1/5/05
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"No Spam" <nos...@nospam.com> wrote in message
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Either use water-proof drywall (green color) or cementious based board.
Remove ALL the drywall. Replace any wallboard supporting lumber as needed.
Used treated lumber for the plate that rides on the floor.

Use fiberglas-based wallboard tape when floating. Float the joints out to
at least with 3 coats for mud.
Any wallboard vertical joints next to the tub wall area should have a
siliconized caulking over the area to prevent water seepage behind the
wallboard.

Prime all the replaced wallboard with a oil-based primer. Use two coats.
Texture the wall if you want with paint in the texture, no water. Paint the
wall with oil-based paint.

Replace all floor-riding trim. Use similar painting techniques as above.
If the trim actually touches the floor, a small bead of siliconized caulking
under it will help prevent water-rot.

Devil's in the details. Think like you're a drop of water wanting entry
into your walls and trim.


Alpha Painting & Contracting

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Jan 13, 2005, 10:46:15 AM1/13/05
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do not use plwood.even if you think that it won't get wet .the moisture from
the bathroom will get to it.I would use green board drywall with a good coat
of a good drywall primer(sherwin williams promar 200 is great suff) and top
coat it with bullseye 1-2-3 which can be purchased at walmart.You can tint
it to your color .you can also add some 2x2 framing for your base boards

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