Also, I'm going to rent a good commercial airless sprayer. Any
recommendations on using it to do interior painting?
Thanks
Joel
Most apply texture, then prime, then paint, allowing for decent drying time
between.. Some use oil base primer/oil base paint in the bathroom.
http://www.homeandgardennh.com/Paint_Wallpaper_GetPrimed.asp
Prep and cover everything you don't want painted, especially the floor. Be
sure the fitting in the airless is seated, not bent. Stage the primer, get
a mixing tool for your electric drill, throwaway coveralls and hood,
unvented goggles, don't open the windows until you're done. You will need
thinner if using oil base. The doors and trim are usually not the same
paint, some prefer oil base here too. A house that has never had a coat of
paint is a very lengthy process. Watch for shadowing, paint runs, and bare
spots. Some prefer painting the interior walls before putting in the carpet
or tile. Clean the airless right away when done, including the tank.
Primer is made for just that. It produces a better bond/coverage with the
drywall 'paper' IMO than plain paint and gives the paint a good base to bond
to.
We used Behr PVA primer in our last house and Glidden latex primer in this
one.
We rented a Campbell Hausfield type 3/4 HP sprayer from Home Depot. You
slide the 5's in and under and away you go.
Borrowed a similar sprayer to do the previous place. Some products say to
thin the paint with water by 10% if being sprayed.
I sprayed the primer-walls and ceilings and attached garage.
Wife cut in and rolled and backrolled the paint- 2 coats
The painting 'bid' for this one was $ 4350.00
Wife (who is a good painter-lots of practice) got it all done for $ 1450.00
BTW, you 'can' get the primer tinted to get a start on color/coverage if
you're not going with plain white walls.
R
One coat of the primer and the drywall literally felt like it had been
covered with an egg shell. After priming, I found a bit of a high spot
in one of my drywall seams - I tried to sand it down, and I eventually
gave up. The primer was so tough that it was almost impossible to get
through it with sandpaper.
When it came time to paint, the paint went on very smoothly and evenly.
I am not sure you would get the same performance from an inexpensive
latex paint.
Good luck on your project!
The absorption rate of the topcoat will be the same on the paper and
compound areas giving you an even paint job that doesn't look
splotchy or spotted.
You will also reduce the amount of topcoat you will use will save you
money.
If you are changing colors from a dark red to a white or from a blue to
a yellow then primer will act as a blocker and not turn your final
coats pink and green.
Primer on wood (usually Alcohol Primer) is used to block the seeping of
resins from the wood into the topcoat. it is very important to hit all
your wood knots and glue joints on your trim moldings.
good luck
bob marencin