Drywall installers, how to cope with
David Arenson & Marilyn Werden
with their router sliced into some wires that were neatly tucked into a
circular splice box in the ceiling. When we politely expressed our concern
that care be taken they walked out and now the owner of the drywall business
is having to reschedule the job for next week with a different crew, which
includes his brother, who should be a little older and more experienced than
the guys they sent today.
Having not dealt with drywall installation before, this whole incident
brought up some questions:
1) Is it common for drywallers to use routers to cut out holes for lights,
receptacle boxes, etc.?
2) If so, how often can one expect them to slice into a wire? Is this highly
unusual, or does it happen all the time? (Is "I guess the hole looks about
like it ought to be about there" standard procedure?) BTW, all our wires
that run through studs, etc. are protected by metal nail plates as needed.
3) How can one best protect one's wires from errant routers? (Or inattentive
drywallers?)
4) In general, how important is it that receptacles and switches not be
attached to the wires in the boxes? On the one hand it seems that a
receptacle or switch sticking out could make hanging drywall more difficult.
On the other, they offer some protection for the wires. It's easier to
replace a receptacle that gets routed than a bunch of wires.
Any advice from seasoned veterans -- be you homeowners or professional
drywallers -- would be appreciated.
Thanks,
David and Marilyn
AJ
Their using the best cut-out method to give you a perfect job. I
use the bottom of my hammer to gently push in any wires that are
within an inch of the finished wall surface.
I know of no reason that wires need to be less than an inch from
the outside of the box while rocking.
If the wire insulation gets marked, five wraps of pvc electric
tape fixes them perfectly. Since that tape is code for wet
location connections, it will certainly protect inside. The
standard zip bits are not able to cut copper as far as I can
tell. AJ
-----------------------------------------------------------
Got questions? Get answers over the phone at Keen.com.
Up to 100 minutes free!
http://www.keen.com
Cecil
>The drywall installers showed up this morning and the second cut they made
>with their router sliced into some wires that were neatly tucked into a
>circular splice box in the ceiling. When we politely expressed our concern
>that care be taken they walked out and now the owner of the drywall business
>is having to reschedule the job for next week with a different crew, which
>includes his brother, who should be a little older and more experienced than
>the guys they sent today.
>
>Having not dealt with drywall installation before, this whole incident
>brought up some questions:
>
>1) Is it common for drywallers to use routers to cut out holes for lights,
>receptacle boxes, etc.?
If they want to stay in business it is.
>2) If so, how often can one expect them to slice into a wire? Is this highly
>unusual, or does it happen all the time? (Is "I guess the hole looks about
>like it ought to be about there" standard procedure?) BTW, all our wires
>that run through studs, etc. are protected by metal nail plates as needed.
>
>3) How can one best protect one's wires from errant routers?
Go around and push the wires deep into the back
of the boxes before they arrive. It is *your* responsibility
to push the wires back, make sure the house is cleaned
out very good, all framing is complete, i.e. nailers, etc...
>(Or inattentive drywallers?)
>
>4) In general, how important is it that receptacles and switches not be
>attached to the wires in the boxes?
Very. You should have no receptacles or switches
installed when they get there, except for their power.
> On the one hand it seems that a
>receptacle or switch sticking out could make hanging drywall more difficult.
>On the other, they offer some protection for the wires. It's easier to
>replace a receptacle that gets routed than a bunch of wires.
>
>Any advice from seasoned veterans -- be you homeowners or professional
>drywallers -- would be appreciated.
Hanging sheetrock is like every other construction
trade. They have to get in and get out to survive.
>Thanks,
>
>David and Marilyn
>
>
marXbig
highly
> unusual, or does it happen all the time?
> drywallers?)
The job needs to be ready for the installers, that's true, however you have
every right to expect quality workmanship from every trade. This expectation
includes that they take every precaution to protect the work of the other
trades. Any damage caused to the work of the other trades should be charged
back to the party causing the damage. For example: if the carpenter damages
the drywall while installing the chair rail then the carpenter should pay to
have the drywall repaired. If the carpet installers damage the painting when
they install the carpet, then they should pay to have the painter return and
repair the paint. And likewise, if the drywall installers damage the
electrical wiring during the hanging of the drywall then they should pay for
the repair of same. oh, and another thing to be cautious about, make sure
that drywall screws (or nails) are not installed too close to copper
plumbing lines. If a screw punctures a line, you will not know about it
until you turn the water on. In a lot of construction, the water is not on
when the drywall is installed so this damage is not detected until you have
a flood and ruin thousand of dollars worth of work.
(Is "I guess the hole looks about
> like it ought to be about there" standard procedure?)
If you have hired the contractor to provide labor AND materials, then bad
cuts are his problem. Let them ruin as much board and waste as much labor as
they want. If however you are providing the materials, then he has an
inherant fudiciary duty to you to conserve materials. He should make all
cuts and holes properly with as little waste, in both time and material, as
possible.
. When we politely expressed our concern
> that care be taken they walked out...
They were just pinheads who were looking for an excuse not to work.
One last question, are they using nails or screws? Well I guess it doesn't
really matter, in either case make sure they don't overdrive the nails (or
overscrew the screws) with the hammers. This crushes the rock and causes the
rock to loosen around the nail. This problem results in what are commonly
called "nail pops". Nail pops cannot be repaired except by properly
renailing near the bad pop, skimming over the pop doesn't repair it, it just
hides it and it will return if not properly renailed. This is a common
problem with inexperienced hangers and I only mention it because you are
already having problems.
Oh, and DON'T PAY THEM until you are satisfied that the job is done
properly.
:-) - Hope this is helpful.
--
marXbig
"David Arenson & Marilyn Werden" <dav...@sedona.net> wrote in message
news:1Ob85.304483$VR.45...@news5.giganews.com...
> The drywall installers showed up this morning and the second cut they made
> with their router sliced into some wires that were neatly tucked into a
> circular splice box in the ceiling. When we politely expressed our concern
> that care be taken they walked out and now the owner of the drywall
business
> is having to reschedule the job for next week with a different crew, which
> includes his brother, who should be a little older and more experienced
than
> the guys they sent today.
>
> Having not dealt with drywall installation before, this whole incident
> brought up some questions:
>
> 1) Is it common for drywallers to use routers to cut out holes for lights,
> receptacle boxes, etc.?
>
> 2) If so, how often can one expect them to slice into a wire? Is this
highly
> unusual, or does it happen all the time? (Is "I guess the hole looks about
> like it ought to be about there" standard procedure?) BTW, all our wires
> that run through studs, etc. are protected by metal nail plates as needed.
>
> 3) How can one best protect one's wires from errant routers? (Or
inattentive
> drywallers?)
>
> 4) In general, how important is it that receptacles and switches not be
> attached to the wires in the boxes? On the one hand it seems that a
> receptacle or switch sticking out could make hanging drywall more
difficult.
> On the other, they offer some protection for the wires. It's easier to
> replace a receptacle that gets routed than a bunch of wires.
>
> Any advice from seasoned veterans -- be you homeowners or professional
> drywallers -- would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
>
> David and Marilyn
>
>
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micke...@my-deja.com
Using a router to cut the holes is the most efficient way to cut the holes.
This ensures that the holes will be exactly to the size of the electric box
and or light fixtures. It is much harder to cover up an oversized cut.
> >
> > 2) If so, how often can one expect them to slice into a wire? Is this
> highly
> > unusual, or does it happen all the time? (Is "I guess the hole looks about
> > like it ought to be about there" standard procedure?) BTW, all our wires
> > that run through studs, etc. are protected by metal nail plates as needed.
> >
> > 3) How can one best protect one's wires from errant routers? (Or
> inattentive
> > drywallers?)
> >
A nick on the wire coatings should not hurt them unless it goes thru to the
copper itself. The electrician when installing the receipticles should be
able to cut off the wire to the exposed area since there usually plenty of
wire left in the box in the first place.
> > 4) In general, how important is it that receptacles and switches not be
> > attached to the wires in the boxes? On the one hand it seems that a
> > receptacle or switch sticking out could make hanging drywall more
> difficult.
> > On the other, they offer some protection for the wires. It's easier to
> > replace a receptacle that gets routed than a bunch of wires.
> >
It would be impossible to hang the sheet rock with the switches and
receipticles in place. There would be no way to get the drywall up to the
studs with that stuff in the way.
> > Any advice from seasoned veterans -- be you homeowners or professional
> > drywallers -- would be appreciated.
> >
One post here talked about nail pops. I would like to give my two cents
here. Nail pops happen due to settleing and or possibly a bowed stud or two.
The "best" way to hang sheet rock is to glue and screw it in place. This is
not a normal practice by most standards. If I were hiring out the job I
would ask the contractor what additional cost would be incurred by using
screws instead of nails and check if they use construction adhesive on the
studs and joists. At very least I would have the ceiling done in this
fashion, gravity plays an important part in nail pops.
Another area in one of the posts talks about charging back the mishaps to the
contractor who had and accident. I do not agree with that statement at all.
It could be possible for the trim carpenter to be nailing in chairrail,
damage the drywall and the reason could possibly be the responsibility of the
original framing. That is something that the trim carpenter can not see as
it is now covered in sheet rock. Also in laying carpet, it is pretty stiff
when it is rolled up and to get it around outside corners etc with as few of
seams as possible there will probably be a nick or two in the paint. The
paint is very easy to touch up and it is very normal to have to do so after
carpet is installed. If you have checked the references and previous work of
the contractors that you have hired, have some faith that they know what they
are doing. Little mishaps will always happen and usually can be fixed.
Hope this helps
Mickey
Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Before you buy.
marXbig
news:8js8eg$1rm$1...@nnrp1.deja.com...
> In article <39616...@goliath.newsfeeds.com>,
> One post here talked about nail pops. I would like to give my two cents
> here. Nail pops happen due to settleing and or possibly a bowed stud or
two.
>
The nail pops I was refering to are caused by inexperienced hangers
overdriving the nails into the rock. This practice results in crushing the
rock around the nail which allows the rock to move in relation to the nail,
resulting in a nail pop. It is evident this is the problem when: 1. There
are multiple and numerous nail pops throughout the work. 2. You can press on
the board and actually see the board and pops bulging and moving. I agree
with you that not all nail pops are caused by this, but when nail pops are
caused by "...settleing and or possibly a bowed stud or two" they are
usually isolated and you cannot move the board around the pop. Again,
overdriving the nails is a direct result of poor workmanship and
inexperienced hangers, and the home or business owner is usually unaware of
this (indeed I have met many builders who did not know about the causes of
nail pops) and pays the price with a problem which will not go away and
indeed only gets worse over time.
> Another area in one of the posts talks about charging back the mishaps to
the
> contractor who had and accident. I do not agree with that statement at
all.
> It could be possible for the trim carpenter to be nailing in chairrail,
> damage the drywall and the reason could possibly be the responsibility of
the
> original framing. That is something that the trim carpenter can not see
as
> it is now covered in sheet rock. Also in laying carpet, it is pretty
stiff
> when it is rolled up and to get it around outside corners etc with as few
of
> seams as possible there will probably be a nick or two in the paint. The
> paint is very easy to touch up and it is very normal to have to do so
after
> carpet is installed. If you have checked the references and previous work
of
> the contractors that you have hired, have some faith that they know what
they
> are doing. Little mishaps will always happen and usually can be fixed.
There is a big difference between "little mishaps" and careless and poor
workmanship. If the carpenter mis hits one or two nails and causes minor
damage or the carpet installer damages a corner or two, or the sheetrock
installer monkeys up one or two receptacles, that's very acceptable and
indeed minor (and doesn't usually result in any back charges) . However, if
through inexperience, carelessness, and/or lack of proper supervision they
beat the walls to pieces, drag carpet down every wall, door casing, and
corner, or damage the wiring throughout the house, these damages are going
to cost the owner hundreds and sometimes thousands of dollars to repair. I'm
sure you will agree with me that the owner should not have to pay for the
carelessness and poor workmanship of the people he is paying to do the work.
The trades have a duty to perform in a profession and workmanlike manner and
this includes taking every possible precaution to protect the work of
others.
By the way, I am a professional painting contractor. I have been painting
for over 30 years and have owned my own company for 24 of those 30, so I
have seen and heard every side of this argument before. If my painters are
careless and get paint all over the countertops or spill paint on the carpet
or don't sand properly or do a poor job of puttying and caulking...I pay to
fix it, not the owner. It is MY responsibility to provide good workmanship
and proper supervision. That's what I am being paid for. Likewise when
another trade does not provide these things and his actions result in damage
to my work which costs me money to repair, I don't expect the owner to pay
for it, I expect the party causing the damage to pay for it.
The following is an excerpt from the Painting and Decorating Contractors of
America's standard #P1-92 which I include in all my contracts and which may
help clarify my position on this...this standard could just as easily apply
to any trade:
Touch-Up Painting And Damage Repair Financial Responsibility
1. Scope
1.1 The purpose of this standard is to establish the financial
responsibilities for repair or correction of damage done to finished painted
surfaces.
1.2 It is the intent of this document to define and categorize "Touch-up".
1.3 A "Properly painted surface" is also defined in this standard.
2. Description
2.1 This standard includes the repair and repaint of finished painted
surfaces which have been damaged by individuals other than those employed by
the painting contractor. This type of damage is known as "Damage caused by
others". The painting contractor will correct the "Damage caused by others"
after receiving a separate work directive from the contracting or agreement
entity. A time and/or price adjustment will then be submitted by the
painting contractor. The work may be done for a lump sum or time and
material depending on the most reasonable individual scenario. The painting
contractor will repair and/or repaint the damaged area after receiving
acceptance of his submittal and authorization to proceed.
2.2 "Latent damage" is due to conditions beyond the control of the painting
contractor. They are caused by conditions not apparent at the time of
initial painting or decorating. (ie. nail pops...marxbig) The painting
contractor will correct "Latent damage" after receiving a separate work
directive from the contracting or agreement entity. A time and/or price
adjustment will then be submitted by the painting contractor. The work may
be done for a lump sum or time and material depending on the most reasonable
individual scenario. The painting contractor will repair and/or repaint the
damaged area after receiving acceptance of his submittal and authorization
to proceed.
2.3 The contractual work is job and item specific. In no case shall the
painting contractor be responsible for "Damage caused by others" or "Latent
damage" as herein described.
2.4 The painting contractor will produce a "Properly painted surface". A
"Properly painted surface" is one that is uniform in appearance, color and
sheen. It is one that is free of foreign material, lumps, skins, runs, sags,
holidays, misses, strike-through, or insufficient coverage. It is a surface
which is free of drips, spatters, spills or overspray which were caused by
the contractor's workforce. Compliance to meeting the criteria of a
"Properly painted surface" shall be determined when viewed without
magnification at a distance of five feet or more under normal lighting
conditions and from a normal viewing position.
The complete standard and many others can be viewed at
http://www.pdca.org/standards/p1-92.htm .
marXbig
sa...@westelcom.com
caused during the course of construction. As general contractors we
almost always assume the cost of damage caused by one trade to
another's work. We consider that part of the overhead of the job and it
is a cost that the owner does in fact pay for, though all he sees is
the overall cost of the project. If we have recurrent problems with one
of the subs, we won't hire them again, but this happens infrequently.
Our electrician threatened us with physical retaliation if we used a
router to hang the rock after he had to splice and repair a number of
boxes. Some of our subs use routers but we are very careful to pack the
wires deep in the box. Even so there is usually a slip up. It's part of
the job. Don't sweat it. ----Schell McKinley
Daniel Hicks
>
> <micke...@my-deja.com> wrote in message
> news:8js8eg$1rm$1...@nnrp1.deja.com...
> > In article <39616...@goliath.newsfeeds.com>,
>
> > One post here talked about nail pops. I would like to give my two cents
> > here. Nail pops happen due to settleing and or possibly a bowed stud or
> two.
> >
>
> The nail pops I was refering to are caused by inexperienced hangers
> overdriving the nails into the rock. This practice results in crushing the
> rock around the nail which allows the rock to move in relation to the nail,
> resulting in a nail pop. It is evident this is the problem when: 1. There
> are multiple and numerous nail pops throughout the work. 2. You can press on
> the board and actually see the board and pops bulging and moving.
Actually, this can be caused by simply using nails that are too long,
especially in wet wood. As the wood dries and shrinks it pushes the
nails out. Even screws will suffer this fate if too long.
Roger Shoaf
David Arenson & Marilyn Werden <dav...@sedona.net> wrote in message
news:1Ob85.304483$VR.45...@news5.giganews.com...
> drywallers -- would be appreciated.
>
nicked wire cannot carry as much current safely as a sound one and could
start a fire. If the electrician is going to finish the job of installing
the switches, outlets, and fixtures he can judge the damage and repair it
safely. If you are going to finish the electrical I would consult with an
electrician or the building inspector if you have any doubts.
--
Roger Shoaf
--reply address contains a riddle to separate those who can from those who
can't.
DanF
>marXbig wrote:
>>
>> <micke...@my-deja.com> wrote in message
>> news:8js8eg$1rm$1...@nnrp1.deja.com...
>> > In article <39616...@goliath.newsfeeds.com>,
>>
>> > One post here talked about nail pops. I would like to give my two cents
>> > here. Nail pops happen due to settleing and or possibly a bowed stud or
>> two.
>> >
>>
>> The nail pops I was refering to are caused by inexperienced hangers
>> overdriving the nails into the rock. This practice results in crushing the
>> rock around the nail which allows the rock to move in relation to the nail,
>> resulting in a nail pop. It is evident this is the problem when: 1. There
>> are multiple and numerous nail pops throughout the work. 2. You can press on
>> the board and actually see the board and pops bulging and moving.
>
>Actually, this can be caused by simply using nails that are too long,
>especially in wet wood. As the wood dries and shrinks it pushes the
>nails out. Even screws will suffer this fate if too long.
What would be considered too long on 1/2" sheetrock?
Danny
dal...@satx.rr.com
DanF
>> drywallers -- would be appreciated.
>>
>I would suggest that any nicks in the wires be carefully inspected. A
>nicked wire cannot carry as much current safely as a sound one and could
>start a fire. If the electrician is going to finish the job of installing
>the switches, outlets, and fixtures he can judge the damage and repair it
>safely. If you are going to finish the electrical I would consult with an
>electrician or the building inspector if you have any doubts.
>--
>Roger Shoaf
Why don't they break the bit in half? You only need 1/2- 5/8" instead
of the what?...1 1/2" depth cutting everything behind it.
Danny
dal...@satx.rr.com
Alan Sanderson
> > Why don't they break the bit in half? You only need 1/2- 5/8" instead
> > of the what?...1 1/2" depth cutting everything behind it
Our attached garage by code has two layers of 5/8" Fire board Daniel so
they'd need over 1 1/4" of bit for that but granted, they could generally
use a1" bit.
Daniel Hicks
> >> news:8js8eg$1rm$1...@nnrp1.deja.com...
> >> > In article <39616...@goliath.newsfeeds.com>,
> >>
> >> > One post here talked about nail pops. I would like to give my two cents
> >> > here. Nail pops happen due to settleing and or possibly a bowed stud or
> >> two.
> >> >
> >>
> >> The nail pops I was refering to are caused by inexperienced hangers
> >> overdriving the nails into the rock. This practice results in crushing the
> >> rock around the nail which allows the rock to move in relation to the nail,
> >> resulting in a nail pop. It is evident this is the problem when: 1. There
> >> are multiple and numerous nail pops throughout the work. 2. You can press on
> >> the board and actually see the board and pops bulging and moving.
> >
> >especially in wet wood. As the wood dries and shrinks it pushes the
> >nails out. Even screws will suffer this fate if too long.
>
> What would be considered too long on 1/2" sheetrock?
Anything much beyond 1.5".
Daniel Hicks
>
> >> Any advice from seasoned veterans -- be you homeowners or professional
> >> drywallers -- would be appreciated.
> >>
> >I would suggest that any nicks in the wires be carefully inspected. A
> >nicked wire cannot carry as much current safely as a sound one and could
> >start a fire. If the electrician is going to finish the job of installing
> >the switches, outlets, and fixtures he can judge the damage and repair it
> >safely. If you are going to finish the electrical I would consult with an
> >electrician or the building inspector if you have any doubts.
> >--
> >Roger Shoaf
>
Someone who knows what they're doing will set the bit to stick out about
1" from the baseplate. You need about that much for proper pilot
action, but you don't need much more. And that puts only 1/2" in the
box, so if the wires are pushed in like they should be they won't get
nicked.
Brian Belliveau
"Alan Sanderson" <getty...@dixie.com> wrote in message
news:uko7kWK6$GA.435@cpmsnbbsa08...
|
|
| > > Why don't they break the bit in half? You only need 1/2- 5/8" instead
|
| Our attached garage by code has two layers of 5/8" Fire board Daniel so
| they'd need over 1 1/4" of bit for that but granted, they could generally
| use a1" bit.
|
|
Do you hang and cut _two_ layers of 5/8 at once ?
Daniel Hicks
>
> > > Why don't they break the bit in half? You only need 1/2- 5/8" instead
> > > of the what?...1 1/2" depth cutting everything behind it
>
> Our attached garage by code has two layers of 5/8" Fire board Daniel so
> they'd need over 1 1/4" of bit for that but granted, they could generally
> use a1" bit.
Yeah, the idea is to adjust the depth to match the board. In this case,
though, they should cut through the first layer before adding the
second, so one could get away with using a 1" or 1-1/8" extension if the
pilot isn't too likely to dig through the first layer. Takes a modicum
of skill and care.
John Smith
> | Our attached garage by code has two layers of 5/8" Fire board
Daniel so
> | they'd need over 1 1/4" of bit for that but granted, they could
generally
> | use a1" bit.
> |
> |
>
You hang one layer first, then the second. You hang it so that seams
of the outer layer do not line up with the seams of the first. The
second layer gets hung with some pretty long nails.
Babs
If the guys were installing new drywall it would have made sense to measure
for the box & cut the opening before they placed the drywall on the
ceiling...unless I'm misunderstanding the situation. Hopefully you hired a
reputable company who will repair any damages..otherwise, I'd be shopping
for a new drywaller right now. Good Luck.
Alan Sanderson
> Do you hang and cut _two_ layers of 5/8 at once ?
I don't
Daniel Hicks
Yes, you misunderstand. That technique is long gone. The rotozip
technique is much faster and better, giving a nicer fit with less
patchup to be done after.
Brian Belliveau
"John Smith" <som...@microsoft.com> wrote in message
news:smO95.9751$7%3.65...@news.flash.net...
| "Brian Belliveau" wrote
| > | Our attached garage by code has two layers of 5/8" Fire board
| Daniel so
| > | they'd need over 1 1/4" of bit for that but granted, they could
| generally
| > | use a1" bit.
| > |
| > |
| >
|
| of the outer layer do not line up with the seams of the first. The
| second layer gets hung with some pretty long nails.
Well yes of course you do ... I was trying to point out the error in
requiring a 1 1/4 depth, as of course all the boxes are also out 1 1/4 from
face of stud
Joe Flyer
contracting your own house, and you truly expect to charge each trade for
every bit of damage caused for WHATEVER reason, you are going to have a
miserable time of building! If you are a professional, you will not be in
business long following that process.
Before you flame....let me get my two cents in....There is a big
difference between complete indifference to other trades' work and errors,
mistakes, and unforseen variables. Always remember that all homes (for now,
and the future) are built by humans, and I have not met a perfect one yet!
I ALWAYS backcharge for clear indifference. Even sometimes, my best trades
(especially when working late, trying to finish a job) will start to get
sloppy. I charge for sloppy mistakes. Other times, someone (i.e. my
cabinet guy, on installation) will do something (like screw a screw through
a water line) and cause sheetrock damage, plumbing damage, damage to
hardwood floors, etc. Now...with that in mind, consider this:
If I charge EVERY one of my trades for basic mistakes that they make,
what are they going to do when they have to fix someone else's mistake?
They are going to get their money back, of course! Those of you who have
been in the business know that ultimately, backcharge wars will not end.
The trades do not work for free, and they will ultimately get their money
out of you. However, if you have good relationships across the board, the,
"You scratch my back....etc." comes into play.
I am not saying backcharges are a bad idea...but, it is like my mentor
told me once, (after a major backcharge backlash)--you have to pick your
battles!
fwiw,
--jf
<sa...@westelcom.com> wrote in message news:8jtl5t$fs$1...@nnrp1.deja.com...
LanceGecko
And jf's comments about backcharge wars are very sage indeed. Our experience
was, almost all subs squabble a tiny bit -- especially if they know each other
well -- kind of like a large family, with the GC as the dad.
*But* I also noticed that these subs (all *very* professional) are quick to
help each other out and correct any small mistakes that go back and forth
throughout the course of construction. Even our electrician, who usually hates
plumbers (for his own odd personal reasons) got along well with the plumbing
team during the nitty gritty of the kitchen reno and made things as easy for
them as possible.
Don't fall over from shock (because I'm sure you hardly ever hear a homeowner
say this!), but personally I'd hope that the GC *did* factor this kind of thing
in, because he's been a gem at promptly fixing the small mistakes that did come
up and he certainly never looked at me and said, "Okay. I know you didn't do
this, but this is going to cost you." We're all human.
I'd work with all of these people again in a gnat's heartbeat. I just wish you
all could see this place -- it's awesome, especially the kitchen design and
interior decor that my sister came up with, in collaboration with the GC (who
is very creative).
-- Lydia
<sa...@westelcom.com> wrote in message
Joe Barta
Lydia,
You seem to have had a good experience with a quality contractor(s).
For the benefit of the group, would you share with us how you came
to choose this particular contractor?
If you had looked at other contractors, were there any red flags
that caused you to look elsewhere?
What were key characteristics of the chosen contractor that
especially impressed you?
If you got a range of prices for similar work, how did the chosen
contractor's price compare?
Do you have any words of wisdom regarding your attitude towards or
experience with with problem solving? If there were a problem,
discrepancy, mishap, etc, how would/did you handle it?
Any other thoughts on the matter?
- Joe Barta
Rick V.
>all could see this place
Why don't you put some pictures on your AOL homepage and post the link?
Rick