Paint is ripping up with the paint tape. How do I prevent this?
Gello
Well, we are painting our house ourselves but have come across a little
problem. When the tape that we used to edge with is removed it takes large
chunks of the paint underneath with it. We are trying to remove it slowly
and at a 90 degree angle as recommended but it is still doing it. Is there
any way to help with the removal like using water, hair dryer, whatever? I
am very demoralized by this and would like some useful advice.
Thanks,
Gello
You Asked
"Gello" <daoen(removethistoemail)@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:oMk9c.2293$yN6....@newsread2.news.atl.earthlink.net...
Two tips:
1. You should have waited until the paint was really dry before taping it .
. .usually at least 48 hours.
2. Use 3M brand blue masking tape, not regular masking tape.
Even better, get the right kind of paintbrush and practice painting straight
lines, and you won't even have to mask in most cases. A round or an angle
cut brush makes it much easier.
Rico dJour
>> Well, we are painting our house ourselves but have come across a
>little
>> problem. When the tape that we used to edge with is removed it takes
>large
>> chunks of the paint underneath with it. We are trying to remove it slowly
>> and at a 90 degree angle as recommended but it is still doing it. Is
>there
>> any way to help with the removal like using water, hair dryer, whatever?
>I
>> am very demoralized by this and would like some useful advice.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Gello
>
>Two tips:
>
>1. You should have waited until the paint was really dry before taping it .
>. .usually at least 48 hours.
>
>2. Use 3M brand blue masking tape, not regular masking tape.
>
>Even better, get the right kind of paintbrush and practice painting straight
>lines, and you won't even have to mask in most cases. A round or an angle
>cut brush makes it much easier.
Good advice. I'd like to add one more thing. I don't know who told you to
pull the tape off at 90 degrees, but that's the _worst_ thing you could do.
You're essentially pulling the paint straight off of the wall. What you should
be doing is pulling the tape almost 180 degrees - that is, doubling it back on
itself. Give that a shot. It should help.
R
Mark & Shauna
coat you just painted that is pulling off or if it is any underlying coats.
As was stated you MUST use easy release tape not conventional masking
tape. It is a bit more expensive but its essential.
Additionally remember to burnish the tape a bit with the handle of your
brush, a 5 in one, whatever, to seal the edge of the tape so you don't
get any paint bleeding under the tape.
Make sure you untape ASAP after painting. Don't leave the tape on while
the job dries. If you tape only once and then prime, paint, and second
coat two things will happen. One is each coat will dry onto the tape and
there will be a high likelihood of peeling as you are seeing and two
when you untape you will see the primecoat as a thin white line (unless
you tint) as the primer will show through.
As Rico said, peel the tape back onto itself. This is to say, start the
tape peeling it off then hold the non sticky sides against each other as
you remove it.
I would guess you let the paint dry on the tape which is a nightmare.
Good luck,
Mark
jim mitchell
instead of a 90 degree angle try removing the tape near 180. or try
to find tape that's less aggressive.
"Gello" <daoen(removethistoemail)@earthlink.net> wrote in message news:<oMk9c.2293$yN6....@newsread2.news.atl.earthlink.net>...
AJ
Even the blue tape should not be left on more than 7 hours. Before
taping any large area do the bandaid teat in a hidden area. Put a
bandaid on and rip off quickly. If the finish under comes off, expect
trouble removing lots of tape.
_________________________
When your PC gives a little they give alot.
http://tinyurl.com/hhez
Robert Matthews
issues with bleeding under the tape. What I ended up doing is running a
bead of white silicone and sending a finder over the bead to fill in the
voids. Lightly wipe off the surface to be painted with a wet cloth and
you're all set.
While this is a good tip to get crisp lines, I find it also has helped with
pealing the tape off. Flat and Eggshell may also peel easier than Gloss or
Semi-Gloss.
"Gello" <daoen(removethistoemail)@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:oMk9c.2293$yN6....@newsread2.news.atl.earthlink.net...
Rico dJour
>I've used the blue 3M tape and it works pretty good, but I still had some
>issues with bleeding under the tape. What I ended up doing is running a
>bead of white silicone and sending a finder over the bead to fill in the
>voids. Lightly wipe off the surface to be painted with a wet cloth and
>you're all set.
Why would you want to use silicone caulk anywhere where there is or will be
paint? If you're having problems with the tape it's either the installation
technique or the tape. You could take a step up and use an autobody fineline
tape.
Personally, I'm in agreement with the other poster (sorry, forgot which one)
who recommended learning to cut in with a brush. I save the tape for
decorative painting techniques.
There's a product that Wagner puts out that looks like a big highlighter pen.
It applies a thin wax film to glass very quickly. Swoop, swoop, swoop, swoop
and you're done with a pane of glass. It also leaves a 1/16" gap so the paint
bridges neatly onto the glass - critical for a lasting paint job - keeps the
putty from drying out and moisture getting behind the paint and causing
peeling. The cap of the applicator has a scraper on the end used to scrape off
the wax. It's a cheap tool and makes painting true divided lights a snap.
R
Gello
remove it before the paint was dry but now it has been 18 or so hours so I
may have a problem with the wall paint. Will try a razor in that case.) to
keep the wall paint off of the ceiling. The paint on the ceiling (under the
tape) was the paint that peeled off. I will try the sharp angle suggestion
(180 degrees (I read about the 90 degree one in a "how to paint" book) with
a flat edge pressing against the paint. If that doesn't work then I will
try using a blow dryer to soften the adhesive (my wife heard this one on a
home show). I will let you know how things go.
Next time I paint I will use a hand held edger! My hands are not very
steady.
Thanks again,
Gello
"Gello" <daoen(removethistoemail)@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:oMk9c.2293$yN6....@newsread2.news.atl.earthlink.net...
Robert Matthews
under the tape. You're not painting OVER the caulking because you're wiping
it off of the painted surface. Maybe the texture on your drywall isn't as
pronounced as mine, but I haven't had much luck getting the tape in every
nook a cranny. Then again, maybe I'm not doing it right.
All I can say is I've gotten crisp lines that would make my momma proud.
"Rico dJour" <rico...@aol.computer> wrote in message
news:20040327231619...@mb-m16.aol.com...
Mark & Shauna
> All I can say is I've gotten crisp lines that would make my momma proud.
It would seem to be a "whatever floats your boat" deal if its your own
home but, other than burnishing tape down, if the surface is too rough
to tape and paint, the caulking step would be a -loose your shirt- step
on a paint job and to make any money you bette be able to cut with a brush.
I am also a proponent of learning to cut well with a quality sash brush
but even with that, there are a lot of applications (most) in our homes
where taping provides a faster and far superior result. We however are
predominantly working with smooth finish plaster.
Ciao,
Mark
Rico dJour
>You want it for the exact reason I stated. It keeps the paint from getting
>under the tape. You're not painting OVER the caulking because you're wiping
>it off of the painted surface. Maybe the texture on your drywall isn't as
>pronounced as mine, but I haven't had much luck getting the tape in every
>nook a cranny. Then again, maybe I'm not doing it right.
>
>All I can say is I've gotten crisp lines that would make my momma proud.
I'm glad it works for you, but you're still putting silicone caulk on a surface
that is to be painted. If the caulk is not filling in those gaps - that is
bridging between the rough wall surface and tape - what's the point of caulking
in the first place? Another point is that silicone caulk doesn't clean up with
water. It's not the fact that you're caulking that is the problem, even though
I don't think it's an effective use of time and money, but the fact that you're
using silicone caulk. What would be the problem with using a latex caulk?
It's cheaper, cleans up with water and there's not a problem with paint
adhesion down the road.
R
Dale Farmer
The only jobs I still use masking tape on is when I am spray-painting. Most
of my painting is of apartments that have finish floors already down, so spray
painting is a non-starter on them. I go around with a normal brush and do all
the trim. When the paint is surface dry I use a razor blade scraper to clean
off the splotches on the glass. ( This trick also makes doing the windows really
fast. ) Then go around with the primary wall color on a roller. Last is the
angle
brush for doing all the edges. Hardest part is doing the baseboards without
getting the paint on the floor. Another useful tool is an auto mechanics scooter
board, I can lay on that and do all the bottom edges easily.
Put down the masking tape, do the painting, peel up the masking tape while
the paint is still wet. If the tape is peeling up the paint it is being stuck too,
then
that coat of paint has a problem that needs to be addressed.
--Dale
Steven
apply it to the wall. The cloth fibers that it removes from your shirt will
kill some of the aggression in the tape, making it less likely to pull paint
off with it.
"Gello" <daoen(removethistoemail)@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:QPy9c.3160$yN6....@newsread2.news.atl.earthlink.net...
Bob K 207
Re: Paint is ripping up with the paint tape
usually is an indication of poor paint adhesion
Rico dJour
>Date: 03/30/2004 12:59 AM Eastern Standard Time
>Message-id: <20040330005958...@mb-m26.aol.com>
>
>
>
>Re: Paint is ripping up with the paint tape
>
>usually is an indication of poor paint adhesion
Or superior tape adhesion.
R
Rico dJour
>Hardest part is doing the baseboards without
>getting the paint on the floor. Another useful tool is an auto mechanics
>scooter board, I can lay on that and do all the bottom edges easily.
I have a MAC Tools rolling stool, the low one with the tray between the wheels.
I love it! Makes scooting around a breeze and saves my knees.
R
Eric Ryder
"Rico dJour" <rico...@aol.computer> wrote in message
Why did I just call up an image of Eddie Murphy tooling around as a disabled
homeless guy on a board with wheels (48 Hrs?)?
Seriously tho, I might have to try something like this - my back goes to
hell from working on the floor.
Robert Matthews
immediately wipe it off the exposed (to be painted) surface. So, yes,
you're applying it to the paited surface, but then remove it. You can use
silicon or latex, doesn't really matter. The negligible cost between the
two means nothing to me, but it may to you if you're working in a production
environment.
The context in which we're performing our work is probably why we see things
differently.
"Rico dJour" <rico...@aol.computer> wrote in message
news:20040328131412...@mb-m13.aol.com...
Eric Ryder
Silicon is a no-no for getting finishes to adhere and/or flow out properly.
It's absolutely unremovable in full (except if you have some Teflon handy) -
I'd stick with the latex if I were you.
<end>
"Robert Matthews" <rmatt...@cox.net> wrote in message
news:2vAac.67733$1I5.47752@fed1read01...
D0N Явiley
I've gone to using the stiff white tape (specifically for this purpose).
I buy it at HD.
It hardly sticks to anything but I manage to get it to work long enough
to paint what I need.
db
"Gello" <daoen(removethistoemail)@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:oMk9c.2293$yN6....@newsread2.news.atl.earthlink.net...
Mark & Shauna
would go if you dont caulk)?
Still dont get it but,..
Mark