In article <31F3CF84.4
...@hydro.on.ca> Dan Evens <dan.ev
...@hydro.on.ca> writes:
>Where is all the discussion about bonsai? Has this ng been
>taken over by squatters?
Truth be told, most of the bonsai discussion is in rec.arts.bonsai.
Lobby your site admin if you don't already get it. That group gets a
few dozen articles a day (virtually all of them about bonsai).
Also, there is a mailing list that carries the same messages as
rec.arts.bonsai, for those that have e-mail only.
There is a question in the FAQ that covers this.
Heck, I might as well increase the bonsai content of this group.
Here is the FAQ:
::: Begin Bonsai FAQ
Section 1 -- Table of contents
Part1
* Section 1 -- Table of contents
Section 1.1 -- Introduction
* Section 2 -- What is Bonsai?
* Section 3 -- Administrivia
Part 2
* Section 4 -- Frequently Asked Questions!
* Section 5 -- Soil
Section 6 -- Watering
Section 7 -- Junipers
Section 8 -- Indoor bonsai
Part 3
* Section 9 -- Clubs, Associations
Part 4
* Section 10 -- Reading material (Books and Magazines)
* Section 11 -- Permanent Bonsai Exhibits
* Section 12 -- Japanese Gardens
Part 5
* Section 13 -- Suppliers and Nurseries
Section 14 -- Turface Suppliers
Section 15 -- Pricing
Part 6
Section 16 -- Dictionary of Japanese bonsai terms
Section 17 -- Dictionary of selected Latin botanical terms
* Section C -- Contributors...
* = (last changed September 26, 1995)
Section 1.1 -- Introduction
This document has passed through many hands in its evolution. This
section will be used to identify the current maintainer, make some
general statements, and then explain what to expect.
Dan Cwiertniewicz is the current maintainer of this information. Dan
has been interested in Bonsai for about 5 years now. Only the past 3
have been successful years for keeping trees alive.
This FAQ is the work of many people, and often it is difficult to
give everyone credit for their contribution. Suffice it to say that Dan
is not the originator of all of this information. If you have a correction
or want to make additions to this FAQ, please let Dan know.
Section 2 -- What is Bonsai? (Mike Bartolone)
This was, at one time, the most commonly asked of all FAQ's; but
since The Karate Kid was first shown, it gets asked a little less
frequently.
The word bonsai (according to my Japanese friends) is pronounced
as follows: "BONE", as in a bone in your arm and "SIGH" as in a long
sigh.
The word literally means a plant (usually a tree or shrub) grown
in a tray or dish. Growing trees in pots began in Egypt about 4000
years ago, mostly for practical reasons, mobility, and
convenience. The Greeks, Babylonians, Persians, and Hindus copied
the technique. The Chinese were the first to plant trees in pots
for aesthetic purposes, about 200 AD. The art of bonsai then moved
to Japan with the monks, who also brought Buddhism, in the 6th and
7th centuries. This data is supported by a scroll from Japan's
Kamakura period (1192-1333) describing life in the Heian period
(794-1191).*
Bonsai as we now know it was perfected in Japan.
The original bonsai trees were usually collected, already dwarfed
by nature. Today, however, it is probably better to allow such
specimens to stay where they are. In many locations, collecting
them in the wild is against the law. In others, the chance of
finding a suitable specimen is almost zero.
One common misconception is that a bonsai is a specific type of
tree. Yes, some trees are more frequently bonsaied than others,
but bonsai can be made from almost any woody stemmed tree or bush
species. Some of the more classic bonsai are Japanese Black Pine,
5 needle pine, Sargents Juniper, and Japanese maples. In the past
20 or so years, a great many species not previously accepted as
bonsai have also joined the list. Some tropical trees, and plants,
such as weeping willow and Jade, are just two.
Over the years, techniques have evolved which allow the grower to
change the height and direction of the tree's growth, and in some
cases to dwarf the foliage as well as the plant. Today, bonsai is
an art form, a living sculpture. There are certain classic or
traditional forms that can be found and followed, but the basic
rule of thumb for personal bonsai is 'If you like the way it
looks, it's a good bonsai'.
*(From The Masters Book of Bonsai)
Section 3 -- Administrivia
*- FTP sites -* The Bonsai FAQ is available via anonymous FTP from
bonsai.pass.wayne.edu.
A mail server also exists for accessing the FAQ archives. Send a
message to LISTS...@HOME.EASE.LSOFT.COM with the command:
GET BONSAI FAQ1
in the body of your message. Parts 2 through 5 of the FAQ
can be obtained by changing the number in the message above.
The entire set can be obtained by sending the message:
GET BONSAI PACKAGE
An anonymous FTP server for Bonsai GIFS (and other types of
pictures) and other bonsai related files is available at
bonsai.pass.wayne.edu (IP address 141.217.25.22). Login as
anonymous and use guest as a password. You can put images in the
/uploads directory, and get images from the /pub/GIFS directory.
This allows the person responsible for the site a chance to check
the files before anyone can get them, thus avoiding having the
site terminated due to inappropriate material.
*- The Bonsai Mailing List -* For those of you who for one reason
or another can not currently get a feed for rec.arts.bonsai, there
may be another way to get in on the discussion there. Subscribe to
the bonsai mailing list! Subscription is easy. Send e-mail to:
LISTS...@HOME.EASE.LSOFT.COM. In the body of the letter, have the
line:
SUB BONSAI <Enter your name>
The mailing list software will extract your mailing address from
the message header, so you don't need to put that in your command.
The messages in the mailing list are automatically posted
to rec.arts.bonsai, and all of rec.arts.bonsai is automatically
mailed to the subscribers of the mailing list! For a list of
commands, send the command: help to the LISTSERV address.If you
have trouble, you can contact Dan Cwiertniewicz (d...@pass.wayne.edu)
for help.
*- Gopher Server -*
A gopher server is maintained at bonsai.pass.wayne.edu
(141.217.25.22). Contained there are links to the FTP site, as
well all discussions from the Bonsai discussion list from 1992
onward.
*- WWW Server -*
A World Wide Web server is available at the URL:
http://www.pass.wayne.edu/~dan/bonsai.html
This site is setup to show the work of the members of the Internet
Bonsai Club. If you would like an area of your own, please contact
Dan Cwiertniewicz.
*-European FTP site -*
The FAQ and some other bonsai related files are now available East
of the Atlantic! If you prefer to get your copy of the FAQ without
the use of one of the transatlantic channels, the address is:
ftp.lysator.liu.se (130.236.254.1) The bonsai files are in
/pub/gardening/bonsai.
Section 4 -- Frequently Asked Questions!
Q: How do I start?
A: Opinion 1) Get as many books as you can. Read them, and look at
the pictures. Check your local phone book for a bonsai club in
your area. Talk to local nursery operators and see if they know of
any clubs in your area.
Personally, I got started with two books: the Brooklyn Botanical
Garden's book _Indoor Bonsai_, and the Sunset book called
_Bonsai_, which is sold at most garden centers. I have talked to
many well-known people in the American bonsai community whose
first book purchase was the latter!
Select a tree that has some of the basic design that you'd like
to have in your final tree, and buy it. Use what you've learned
from reading, and from the local club/nursery owner (if he knows
what bonsai is!).
Opinion 2) Indoors: Remember that immature plants should not be
treated as bonsai, they must be treated as the houseplants they
are. Give them plenty of soil to grow in and don't use too little
fertilizer, or they won't develop branches and leaves when you cut
them and the trunk won't grow in thickness.
Q: As a beginner, should I purchase a mature or partially trained
bonsai, or start from scratch?
A: Opinion 1) I think you should start from scratch. Your first
attempts may never be 'show quality', but you can make a few
mistakes without damaging a tree you paid for. It may take a bit
longer to arrive at something that looks the way you want it to,
but bonsai is (usually) not one of those instant gratification
hobbies. If you get the proper book and some guidance, starting
with some inexpensive nursery stock may yield some 'instant
bonsai.' This approach allows you, as a beginner, to learn while
owning something that looks like a 'real bonsai'. Stay away from
trees labeled 'Bonsai' in MOST discount stores. Numerous people
have seen some discount chains with dead or dying seedlings
planted in shallow trays with a solid mat of pebbles glued down
over the soil. The trees had not been watered; and even if they
had been, the water couldn't penetrate the ground-cover. They were
marked $10.00
Opinion 2) The question should really be: Should I start from
scratch with a small seedling, or with a plant that is larger?
Neither will give you "instant bonsai". The larger will have a
thicker trunk from the beginning, and thus will look "almost like
a tree" sooner. A younger plant gives you greater freedom to
choose a shape for training. You get to practice different methods
on different size plants: the larger lends itself to cutting down,
the smaller to cutting away to encourage other growth.
(And by all means, if you see a shaped tree you really want, with
the right price, that looks healthy and undamaged and is of a
species you know is hardy or is of a sort you already have (and
know you can take care of) -- it _is_ OK to buy it.)
Opinion 3) Brian Corll writes: I would recommend that if you can
afford to do so, you purchase a tree that has had some training
_and_ purchase several species of trees appropriate for your
geographical location that can be trained exclusively by you. The
purchase of the former will give you something that has the
appearance of a more finished tree and can become the centerpiece
of your growing collection. Purchasing the latter will give you
material to learn from. Keep in mind that there is no such thing
as "instant bonsai". Development of bonsai material takes years.
Don't be discouraged by that fact. Years are going to pass anyway.
You might as well be growing a potential masterpiece in the
meantime!
Q: Is there a list of plants that are accepted as 'good' to start
a bonsai? (Latin names, and if to be in- or out-doors please)
(Note: A more complete listing of indoor trees is available in
section 7)
A: Ficus benjamina Indoors Fast grower, hardy. Easy to get the
leaves small. Suitable for many different shapes.
Ficus retusa Indoors Similar to benjamina, leaves grow in a
different pattern.
Ficus pumila Indoors If you want a cascade, this is the way to go.
Cut often to prevent it from going long and thin. May die if the
roots dry out totally.
Ficus Nerifolia Indoors This is the narrow leaf (also called
willow leaf) form of the Ficus species. The leaves are naturally
much smaller than the other forms of this species.
Schefflera arboricola Indoors
Schefflera actinophylla Indoors Can be cut down enormously. Buy a
50cm plant and cut it down to 10cm! Must be shaped completely
without wiring. Takes correct treatment to get the leaves small.
Crassula argentea Indoors
Portulacaria afra Indoors Succulents with small leaves, branch
easily.
Malpighia coccigera Indoors Slow grower. Holly-shaped leaves. Easy
to grow.
Murraya paniculata Indoors Slow grower. Gets beautiful structured
bark when still young.
Myrtus communis cool winters - Outdoors Must be kept at around
+10C (50F) in the winter.
Q: I assume that the time and number of times to prune the
trees/roots vary with the latitude. Anyone have data on that?
A: The answer to this is a bit more complex than it would seem. It
isn't just a case of latitude. Localized climatic conditions can
and do play a much larger role in when to perform the common
bonsai activities such as pruning, and repotting, than the
latitude. For instance, in the US, the Great Lakes have a climatic
effect in a strip around them that extends from about 10 miles to
well over 50 miles in width depending on if you measure on the
eastern or western edge of the lakes. What you need is the USDA
zone map and a chart comparing the climate of some of the cities
in Japan for min. winter temp, earliest frost, last frost, avg.
precipitation. etc. Unfortunately I've seen a lot of people try to
do this and come to the conclusion that the climate (at least in
the US) has no parallel to that of Japan.
Q: What are some good tools for beginners to purchase? They're
rather expensive if you get true bonsai tools. It would be a shame
to buy a $45 trimmer and then realize that it's only used during
odd procedures or only for specific types of trees/styles.
A: The general consensus is that the only indispensable bonsai
tool is a concave cutter. Other tools can be the common
garden/hardware store variety and work quite well. Things you will
need are:
Small concave cutter
Diagonal wire cutters
Scissors (Good moustache scissors or small sewing scissors)
Chop stick (They are cheap and useful)
Buy the best quality item you can afford, and take good care of
it. It will be much more cost effective in the long run than
having to buy a particular tool 3 or 4 times.
You may also want to give some thought to watering "tools". If you
have only one or two trees, a simple spray bottle, and cautious
use of a common garden hose should be suitable for a while. If you
get more involved you will probably want to get a .5 gallon per
minute fogger head for your hose. Indoors, you can use a "normal"
watering can. if you want a finer stream, one person uses a common
button hot glued to the end of the spout. There is also a small
fine spray "rosette" head which is designed to attach to most
common plastic consumer bottles. If it is difficult to find, you
may have to look at a bonsai store, or in a bonsai catalog.
Q: I have trouble finding the 'right' pots for bonsai, at any
price, for my finished grove / cascade / etc., are there
alternatives?
A: One of the best ways to view an assortment of pots, as well as
to speak to bonsai potters, is to attend a large regional Bonsai
exposition. Your local club will be able to let you know of
upcoming events. There are usually craftspeople selling an
assortment of pots, and if one doesn't fit your needs, they may be
able to special-order or specially craft a pot for you.
An excellent American bonsai potter is Keystone in Pennsylvania.
If they don't have a pot that fits your needs, they'll probably
take a commission.
Keep in mind that a bonsai should not be moved into a bonsai pot
until it is nearing the end of its initial training period.
Putting immature material into a bonsai pot too soon will delay
development of the tree.Many people keep developing material
either in the black plastic nursery pots they came in or in
ordinary clay flower pots (my personal favorite). Azalea pots or
bulb pans are especially useful, and for developing pines and
other hardy material that will be kept outdoors all year around in
cold climates, you may want to consider using the heavy lipped
cylinder pots found in most garden centers, as they are more
resistant to cracking from the cold.
Q: I'm beginning bonsai, and I can't afford a Japanese pot large
enough for the tree I just collected / for all of the seedlings
I've started / etc.
A: Mica pots are an excellent alternative to clay pots. Not only
are they much lighter than clay (useful for those large trees),
but they usually less costly. And from all but the closest viewpoint,
they look like an unglazed brown or black clay pot.
There are also plastic pots that look good until you are very
close, available from several of the suppliers.
Another alternative is "DIY" (Do It Yourself) pots. There are
several ways to make your own pots at home. Pots can be made from
wood if you have the appropriate woodworking tools available.
Recently I have seen demonstrations of casting pots from a
combination of cement, peat, vermiculite, and concrete re-
inforcing fibers. This yields a pot which looks like a rock, and
is surprisingly light weight. See section on hypertufa for
details.
One other solution which has been used by more than one person is
to use a plain red clay "drip pan" from a larger pot. You will
need to make a hole or some holes in the bottom for drainage.
These can also be painted to cover the fact that it is a simple
clay pot.
There are numerous other options. Scout out yard/garage/estate
sales. (These can also be a source of trained trees, but, in the
case of estate sales, be careful. If the grower is the one whose
estate is being sold, there is a good chance the trees are not
well because they were not properly cared for after the owner
passed away.) Check for "continuing education classes in your area
for pottery classes and make your own!
Q: What kinds of insecticides are safe to use on bonsai ?
A: Most professional bonsai growers as well as curators of major
bonsai collections in the US are currently advocating the use of
SunSpray UltraFine horticultural oil for insect control. This is
not meant to be an endorsement of this particular product. It's
just a fact that this is what most such people are using. SunSpray
will control most common insect infestations, as detailed in the
instructions that come with the bottle. Be aware that certain
trees, such as cryptomeria and some spruces, are sensitive to
SunSpray's ingredient (paraffinic oil) and may be damaged by it.
SunSpray should not be used more than four times in a growing
season.
A good reference is the Ortho book, available where most Ortho
products are sold. This book is a big help in diagnosing your
tree's ills and in selecting an appropriate treatment.
Tom Zane <TomZ50...@aol.com> adds:
To counter any sucking type insect (mites, mealy bugs, white flies,
leaf miners, etc., use an insecticide with the active ingredient,
"cygon". It is a "systemic" which means it gets into the vascular
system of the plant and as the unwelcome critters suck the plant's
juices, they get poisoned. It is safe for most all plants when used
as directed; both as a foliar spray and as a soil drench. For an
infestation, make three applications, seven to ten days apart. This
will kill the adult you see and the next two generations of eggs
after they hatch.
Q: What about fungus problems ?
There are many good fungicides on the market, among them Captan,
Phaltan, Benomyl, and Funginex. The latter is a broader spectrum
fungicide that is particularly good for treating black spot and
powdery mildew.
Q. How do I make fertilizer cakes?
A. Bruce Baker answers:
I've made hundreds of pounds of fertilizer cakes---known more
commonly in the bonsai world as "poo poo balls". In fact, I now
go through a couple hundred pounds of it per year. There are
recipes for these in several books, including John Naka's, but I
can give you a couple of pointers that will make it easier for
you.
To start with you will need the following ingredients: 4 parts
cottonseed meal, 2 part blood meal, 1 part bone meal, some form of
liquid fertilizer, and trace elements if your liquid doesn't have
them. I start with fifty pound bags of cottonseed, but unless you
also have a huge collection you can start with a five pound bag.
You will also need a mellon baller, unless you like to get your
hands sickeningly dirty.
Step 1--Mix all of the dry ingredients and set aside what you
don't need at the moment. About 2/3 of a standard sized bucket of
dry ingredients produces enough poo poo balls to fertilize about
100 medium to large bonsai. Store leftover dry fertilizer in an
airtight container for later use.
Step 2--Put the equivalent of a single application into a bucket.
Separately mix liquid fertilizer to add to the mixture. I've used
liquified kelp and inorganics like Rapid Gro, etc. Add trace
elements (you can get concentrated trace elements at good
nurseries) if you don't use a liquid fertilizer that already
contains them. Add the liquid to the solids and stir until you
have something with about the consistency of oatmeal cookies ready
to cook.
Step 3--Use the mellon baller to scoop the balls directly onto the
bonsai soil surface. You need to apply a bit of pressure against
the side of the bucket to get them to stick together.
That's all there is to it. I put on a new application about once
a month.
Here are all the things that have been recommended by others that
I DON'T do along with the reasons why:
1. Don't mix more than you need!!!! If you do this I guarranty
you will have a nasty problem drying it. It will stink, mold, and
attract maggots and other repulsive insects no matter how much
Sevin, or other insecticide, you use. In fact, maggots seem to
thrive on Sevin-treated poo poo balls if they dry slowly enough.
If you apply untreated balls directly to the soil
surface, they will dry very quickly without stink or mold and best
of all, without insects. Ask anyone who recommends Sevin if it
really works. ;)
2. Don't use binders like flour and corn starch. This just
doesn't serve any useful purpose.
A final point is that although I am a big believer in organic
fertilizer for bonsai, I supplement this with inorganics on a
regular schedule. The combination results in stronger, better
colored trees.
--Bruce Baker <b...@one.com>
And Hud Nordin answers with:
Recipes vary, but here's one from John Naka's "Bonsai Techniques":
Mix 2 parts of cottonseed-meal and 1 part of blood-meal with water
to a texture about as soft as an ear lobe. Not too dry or too
soggy. Form into a small ball about the size of a ping-pong ball
(1 heaping tablespoon). Flatten each one to 1/2 inch thick and
place on the surface of each bonsai.
===
Some folks add some fish emulsion. You can use other seed-meals,
like rape seed. Some recipes call for letting the whole mixture,
maybe with a little more water at first, ferment until enough
water has evaporated for it all to become a paste again. You need
a big yard for this; it's pretty stinky and you'll want it far
from the living quarters.
Heck, here's another recipe, from Deborah Koreshoff's "Bonsai":
3 parts soya bean meal, 1 part blood and bone, 1 part chicken
manure, 1 part wood ash, 1 part fish emulsion. Put all the
ingredients into a container at least 4 times the volume and add
water to reach a little over half-way up the container (don't fill
the container completely while fermentation takes place, as the
liquid may bubble over--also, it is a good idea to keep the lid on
during this time). When fermentation has stopped (in about 3
months time) then top-up the bin with water and when the mixture
settles, use one part of the liquid to five parts of water. [...]
An alternative to liquid fertilizing is to make fertilizer
cakes. To do so, make the same mixture as above, but use less
water, or allow the water to evaporate. When it reaches a thick
consistency, add enough plain flour to make it sticky. Form this
mixture into small biscuits or cakes and dry in the sun. The cakes
are simply placed on the surface of the soil and a little
fertilizer leaches out into the pot each time the bonsai is
watered. Put four, one in each corner, in a large bonsai pot, two
in a medium sized one and one in a small bonsai pot.
===
Uhh, make sure you have some rubber gloves for when it comes time
to form the cakes! Yuck.
Oh, and don't panic if you see some insect larva enjoying the
fertilizer cakes, or some mold; that's just nature's way of
letting you know your recipe is nutritious and delicious. I saw
one recipe that added a little insecticide to make it less
palatable to creepy crawlers. I don't do that because then the
possum-biscuits (well, the possums think they are) might harm our
marsupial friends.
--
Hud Nordin
Q: Help! My bonsai looks sick. What should I do?
A: Fix what's wrong. Unfortunately, you have not provided enough
detail for us to diagnose your tree's problem. In the meanwhile,
this can be useful action to take: John Naka's (Bonsai Techniques
I) emergency treatment for a sick tree: "If the tree shows
indications of weakness or is sick looking, do not fertilize, nor
put in complete shade. This is the worst treatment. Carefully take
it out of the pot and slightly comb out just the outside of the
firm ball. Plant it in a larger container and keep it in a semi-shade
area, or plant it directly in the ground in a semi-shade area. If the
tree condition looks very serious, wash off the soil completely and
plant it in pure sand. Keep it in semi-shade until it begins to
thrive."
Q: OK, I'm convinced my bonsai is a species that belongs outdoors,
but, in my climate, winter temperatures are very cold. Won't my
tree freeze?
A: Yes, it will. So? That's not necessarily a bad thing, if the
species is hardy to your climate. Trees native to cold climates
survive winter by going dormant. In fact, they require an annual
dormancy. Don't let them fool you; they might survive a year or
two without dormancy, for nature sometimes provides a mild winter,
but their health will suffer over time.
Trees are signaled by shortened daylight in autumn that cold is
approaching. Aboveground, the tree protects itself by covering its
buds and needles that will remain during the winter with a waxy
secretion to retard water loss. When temperatures drop, the
permeability of cell walls increases, allowing some water to leave
the cells, thus preventing freezing water from damaging the cells
when it expands. Roots are protected in nature by being embedded
in the thermal mass of earth, often extending well below the frost
line. The roots of a bonsai, confined within a shallow pot, are
vulnerable to cold in a way that a natural plant's are not.
When temperatures average below 35 F (2 C), trees become totally
dormant: there is no growth aboveground and light is not needed.
Above that, light is beneficial. In either case, they will
continue to need water, but at a reduced rate; continue to water
when the soil tells you it is needed, but don't bother watering
when the soil is completely frozen.
With a bonsai exposed to a cold winter climate, you should be
concerned about the same things the tree is: the minimum
termperature the species can tolerate, too rapid freezing, the
roots, and dryness.
You should be aware of the kind of minimum temperature your tree
can tolerate. Retailers or books can provide this information. In
the US, hardiness is often given in terms of the USDA Zone system
for landscape plants, based on average annual minimum
temperatures:
Zone 1 Below -50 F ( Below -46 C)
Zone 2 -50 to -40 F (-46 to -40 C)
Zone 3 -40 to -30 F (-40 to -34 C)
Zone 4 -30 to -20 F (-34 to -29 C)
Zone 5 -20 to -10 F (-29 to -23 C)
Zone 6 -10 to 0 F (-23 to -18 C)
Zone 7 0 to 10 F (-18 to -12 C)
Zone 8 10 to 20 F (-12 to -7 C)
Zone 9 20 to 30 F ( -7 to -1 C)
Zone 10 30 to 40 F ( -1 to 4 C)
Zone 11 above 40 F, guaranteed frost free.
For instance, Juniperus chinensis are hardy to USDA Zone 4. In the
ground, they should survive where average annual minimum
temperatures are as low as -30 F (-34 C). With excellent winter
protection, they can survive even colder climates. As bonsai, they
need some protection to survive extreme climates.
Too rapid freezing can be combatted by insulating the tree with
mulch or snow, or by putting it in an enclosure that traps air.
Happily, these measures also defeat the drying winds of winter.
Roots are helped by these, too, but they are protected better by
putting the plants into the ground. You can bury the tree in its
pot, but beware that freezing water can crack a pot. If it would
be a problem, you can separate the bonsai soil from the earth with
some shredded bark or similar material. Keep the bonsai out of the
sun, for rapid variations of temperature cause most of the
problems. An area out of the wind, such as near a building or a
hedge, provides added protection. With a little more effort, you
can create a cold frame for even more protection. This is small
greenhouse-like structure that will let in light and some heat and
keep cold winds away. Further protection can be achieved by
placing it over an excavated pit, perhaps extending below the
frost line (then called a sun pit). On warm days, open up the
cold frame to keep the plants cool and ventilated. If your
solution also provides an ideal winter home for wee beasties, you
should consider enclosing the plants in screening or laying out
poisonous rodent bait nearby; combat mold by providing a little
more ventilation and reducing water. Heavy snow or ice can shape a
bonsai in ways you may not desire; covering with branches or
firmer structures can protect them.
You have an outdoor bonsai, but limited access to the outdoors?
That's a problem. If you can't use a friend's land, you might be
able to use a garage, porch, or balcony to get cold temperatures
for your bonsai. You may be able to fashion an enclosed space near
a cracked open window to induce partial dormancy, but watch out
for condensation and large heat bills. Some people have put their
bonsai in a spare refrigerator for the winter. But be careful if you do
this as refrigerators are about as dry as the sahara.
Don't let these suggestions stifle your creativity; you know the
problems to be solved.
Q: How do I get or grow moss?
A: There are a couple of methods. One would be to try and grow it
from commercially available moss spores. This is exceedingly difficult.
Perhaps the best method was recommended by Iris Cohen:
Ò...look for moss that grows in full sun or close to it. I get mine from
my driveway or the middle of the lawn. Bill Valavanis gets his from the
roof of somebody's house. Cracks in the pavement are good. To eliminate
bugs, I rub off excess dirt on the back, and soak a batch of it in a saucer of
soil insecticide solution for a half-hour or so, then rinse. It will damage
the moss temporarily, but it comes back in a few weeks or less.Ó
Q: Being new here would someone tell me the difference between
rec.arts.bonsai group alt.bonsai and the bonsai mailing list?
A: Usenet's alt.bonsai newsgroup came first; it's easy to
establish alt groups. Rec.arts.bonsai came later, following more
formal creation procedures; rec groups are available at more
sites, allowing more to participate. Still, some sites only get
alt.bonsai, so it remains; besides, alt groups are nigh impossible
to kill off.
Topics that deserve a wider readership can be cross-posted, so
they can be read in either. Rec.arts.bonsai receives more traffic,
so if you have the choice it's the one to get. If your site only
gets alt.bonsai, lobby your site admin for rec.arts.bonsai.
Finally, what really came first, I think, is the bonsai mailing
list. Shortly after the creation of rec.arts.bonsai, the mailing
list was gatewayed to it, so what appears on the list
automatically appears on rec.arts.bonsai, and vice-versa; they
contain the same messages, delivered in two different ways. If you
can't get rec.arts.bonsai, subscribe to the list (as described in
the FAQ).
Q: I'd like to create a large bonsai. What sort of limits should
I consider.
A: From John Naka: Bonsai Techniques I:
Large bonsai (OMONO BONSAI) - "The maximum size is about four feet
tall, not including the pot, and is termed as two man, three man,
and four man lifting size. If larger and taller than four feet,
it is called a HACHI-UYE, and is mainly displayed in a yard or for
temporary display in a large building."
Other sizes he mentions:
2. Medium size bonsai (CHUMONO BONSAI) - 1-1/2 to 3 ft.
3. One hand lifting size bonsai (KATADE-MOCHI BONSAI) - 8 to 15
inches
4. Small size bonsai (KOMONO BONSAI) - 4 or 5 to 7 inches
5. Palm size bonsai (MAME BONSAI) - 3 or 4 fit on an average hand
For beginners, I would suggest sizes 2 or 3. Keep in mind that
large pots can get quite heavy, and that they must occasionally be
lifted and moved. An episode of low back strain can considerably
hamper your bonsai and other activities, so be cautious.
Q: I'm having trouble sharpening my knob and concave cutters,
any advice?
A: Whatever you do, don't forget the slight overbite ground into
the cutters. Knob and concave cutter are not ground with a perfect
match. When I bought them, I thought it a defect but was told that
it was the correct grind. Two different stores and different
manufacturers so I guess it's right. I thought about it a bit and
concluded that without the slight overbite, the fine edges might
destroy each other when the blades hit. If you don't point out the
overbite to a professional sharpener, they may change the behavior
of the cutter.
Howard Hayakawa <hayak...@STAR.ENET.DEC.COM>
Q: I want to take some good photos of my Bonsai. How should I do this?
A: Terry Wolfe <Wolf...@AOL.COM> says:
1. Don't use yellow backdrop. Too Distracting. Find a Light gray sheet. it
won't fight with any colors in the plant.
2. Take the photos on a cloudy day. You will get far less shadows that way.
The colors will also look much richer. If that is not possible use a flash to
fill in and lighten the area.
3. Use a tripod and a long lens( 85mm minimum) to isolate the plant from its
surroundings. Use the smallest F stop for the amount of light available. If
it is not too windy you can even shoot as long as one half second on the
tripod.
4. Expose the whole roll the same. That way the processor will not have to
adjust the color balance too much.
5. If you shoot bracketed with one exposure according to the readings and one
each over and under exposed you will find the exposure that best fits the
setting.
Section 5 -- Soils
BONSAI SOILS
There are two distinct schools of thought with regard to the
soils. The first, is the 'traditional' school which holds to the
layering of soils. A 'newer' method uses only one mix through the
whole pot. Both methods seem to work well. The major argument for
the layered method is that it has been used for hundreds of years
with much success. The argument for non-layered soil is that layering
produces a perched water table, with the finer soil on top holding
more water than the successively coarser grains below. The non-
layered soil thus has a more even distribution of moisture. An
excellent article was recently published in "Bonsai Magazine" on
soil structure and its effect on water retention. A general
conclusion reached was that layering of soils could produce a
perched water table, but that the working of the soil with a stick
tended to cause a mixing at the break in the layers.
The formulation of a good general soil mix or one for a particular
species is a subject that will set off huge arguments among bonsai
growers. Growing conditions vary widely, as do growing techniques,
so that the choice of a soil mix depends as much on the local
climate and the habits of the grower as it does on the preferences
of individual species of plants.
The idea is to create a balance of moisture- and nutrient-holding
capacity that is appropriate for the individual tree, location,
climate, and watering regimen. There are three basic components to
a soil mix: organic material to provide nutrients which may be
supplemented by fertilizer, water-retaining material such as
Turface (fired clay particles), and drainage material such as
granite grit, to allow excess water to drain freely from the pot
and avoid suffocation of the root system. Any one or two of these
components may be eliminated as desired or required. There are
pines growing in nothing but drainage material, and tropicals
growing in pure organic material. Talk to local growers about what
works best for them for particular species, and inquire as to
their watering habits and siting of their bonsai to see how their
soil mixes might work for you.
Sandy Vrooman added this recipe on 13 Feb 1995 during a discussion
soils:
If no one can offer anything I'll probably make my own out of 30%
pulverized granite, 30% kitty litter (now just hold it, before
another thread starts, there ARE high fired kitty litters out
there. Buy a premium brand and throw a handful in water, if it's
still firm in the morning it's fine to use), 30% pine bark chips,
10% Michigan peat (peat humus) with a touch of garlic and just a
hint of mint. Sorry I can't reveal the quantities on the garlic
and mint...it's an old Sicilian family recipe. :)
If you have a soil recipe that works then use it. That it is a known
successful mix precludes any suggestions for erors or omissions. I
have always said use the same mix used locally and fine tune it for
your watering techniques. I mix in small batches and use that mix
for similar trees. The next batch will be fine tuned for a different
type of plant. Usually the basic differences for me are conifer vs
decidious. Not all materials are available in all locations.
David Cushing submitted this recipe on 31 May 1995:
Materials:
Turface (by Aimco) -- promoted mostly for making baseball fields.
It is kiln fired clay and has a great particle size.
Sand/Gravel -- whatever you can find
Peat -- Gool ol' Candian peat
Potting mix -- the type for regular house plants
Run all materials through two screenings. One with a fine mesh
screen (1/8 to 1/16 in.) to get rid of the fine dusty particles.
You can use a window screen for a house, they sell rolls in hardware
stores. This screening should be thorough and is critical. I have
reduced 5 bags of fine gravel into two this way [anyone need some
playpen sand?]. The other screening should be through a 1/4 in
screen to remove the big pieces. I like to screen the peat through
the big screen first to break up all of the chunks. You will find
many materials do not need sifting for large particles, since there
are none.
Standard mix is (roughly) 50% turface, 20% peat, 10% Sand, 20% Potting
mix. When done, it does not look like soil. Actually it looks like kitty
litter. But does it ever drain! As usual, you can use more peat & soil
mix for plants that like to stay wet. My only complaint with it is
that the mix tends to take longer to get cohesive. It tends to run
off with a hard watering. It may make sense to add a top layer of
mix with more soil/sand and less turface. The first few waterings
should be done by immersion to make sure it's getting thoroughly saturated.
In the meantime, below are some guidelines that might help:
Organic material:
Organic peat humus
Sphagnum peat moss
Composted material,
Compost and manure
Water-holding material:
Turface
Terragreen
Orchid bark
Pine bark
Drainage material:
Granite chicken grit
Quartz grit
Coarse sand
River gravel
Aquarium gravel
Volcanic sand
Crushed volcanic rock
Perlite
Vermiculite
Haydite
Waylite
Layered Soil
When using all three of these types of soil material, the usual
practice is to layer soils in order to afford good drainage and
root health. The lower soil layer usually will contain drainage
material which is in the 1/4" - 1/8" size range. The middle layer
contains material in the 1/16" - 1/8" size range, and the topmost
layer contains material from 1/32" to 1/16" in size. These sizes
of material are obtained by using sieves with at least three
screens of the appropriate size range. Any material which will
pass through the smallest screen is unusable and is discarded. If
you are purchasing materials which are sold in various sizes,
sifting of soil is usually unnecessary. For example, chicken grit
comes in developer/layer and starter sizes, which correspond to
the coarse and medium sizes recommended above. Using these two
sizes in the soil mix obviates the need to screen, as the grit has
already been screened prior to packaging.
Species of trees which prefer higher amounts of organic material
include maples, beeches, azaleas, and most tropicals and sub-
tropicals. Coniferous material such as pines, spruces, and
junipers ususally prefer soil mixes which contain large amounts of
drainage material.
Experimentation and observation is the best way to find the right
soil mix for your tree(s).
It has been noted that many (most?) bonsai nurseries now carry
prepackaged bonsai soil which can be used as is, or modified for
your specific trees.
Non-layered Soil
It should also be mentioned that there are two trains of thought
within this group. Those who use a material like turface
exclusively, and those who mix materials like pine bark, peat moss
and sand. The method here is simple enough. Obtain the material
you wish to use (mix it if necessary). Place plastic screening
over the draining holes, and partially fill the pot with soil.
Position the tree(s) and add more soil. Pack the soil in around
the roots. Water well, Fertilize after a few weeks.
Inorganic Soils
It should also be said that some experts do not believe that the
trees obtain any significant nourishment from the soils in which
they are potted. Roots obtain nourishment from material held in
solution. They feel the best method for feeding trees is with
fertilizer. The soil simply holds the roots in place and provides
a means for trapping moisture in proximity to the roots.
Section 6 -- Watering
Surely, it is time to put Sandy "Knuckles" Vrooman's watering recipe in
the FAQ. Here's the most recent posting of it:
> Rule of thumb?! How about the rule of digit? It is interesting to say some
> thing until you are blue in the face and then have someone new ask the
> same questions not knowing (no blame) what has been said in the past.
> The Sandy Vrooman method of judging if a plant needs water includes use
> of your index finger as a guide for soil moisture testing. Stick your
> index finger into the soil. If you feel moisture when you are one knuckle
> deep, you are ok (if you are measuring in a 3 inch deep or deeper pot).
> If there is no moisture at the second knuckle, you and your plant may be
> in trouble. There are variations to any theory. If you have a plant
> with excessive surface roots (like an azalea) you may want to alter the
> knuckle deplth to correspond. With drought tolerant plants like olives
> you may want to use a longer finger.
> Sandy "Knuckles" Vrooman
Then there is the somewhat obscure statement (which I like to think of as Zen watering): Wait until the plant is dry, and then water the day before.
Timed or Automatic Watering Systems
While there is no better way to water than checking the needs of each plant, it must be said that there are times and ways that automatic systems may be best. These systems are used for a variety of reasons: large quantities of plants to water, vacation, regular absences, etc. Whenever possible water each plant by hand to determine when it needs water and when it has had enough water. Healthy plants can withstand a week or two of excessive watering, especially if well drained.
Most of these systems consist of commercially available plastic hosing, sprinkler heads, and timers.
Section 7 -- JUNIPERS
The Juniper is one of the most recognized bonsai specimens and is
frequently the first bonsai purchase many newcomers make. Junipers
do make very fine bonsai. Although they are not 'difficult' bonsai
to manage, they are frequently 'mistreated' and therefore do not
last long. We have gotten LOTS of questions about "brown junipers"
and what 'first aid' you might give them. Well, we hate to break
the news to you, but, if you have a brown juniper, it is probably
dead. Don't get too depressed; even the best have lost a tree...or
5...or 10. The most common mistakes made with junipers are over
watering AND lack of sufficient sunlight. Junipers are outdoor
trees. If you have no way to grow them outside, find some nice
person who knows about bonsai and can give them a good home. If
you want to try a juniper anyway, make sure it gets plenty of sun,
don't over water it, and make sure it gets plenty of air. If you
have an ailing juniper, and if you have managed to catch it early
enough, you may want to remove the tree from its pot and bare-root
it. Then repot it in pure sand. This is an extreme measure. Your
best bet, if you do want to attempt to save your tree, is to take
it to a bonsai club or reputable dealer/supplier.
Section 8 -- Indoor bonsai
Many people make the mistake of assuming that since bonsai is in a
pot, it must be kept indoors. Some people get into bonsai just
because they want to have a tree inside. Most of the trees you
will see in the books and magazines, however, are actually kept
outdoors most, if not all, of the year. Any tree you get which is
native or "zone hardy" in your area should be kept outdoors. There
are many trees which may be "outdoor" trees in tropical or semi-
tropical places, but do well indoors given the proper care.
Windows block a great deal of light...a great deal more than you
would imagine. Also, unless you have an attached greenhouse, the
sun will be getting blocked off for at least part of the day due
to walls, the roof, etc. I would suggest getting some extra lights
for your trees. I got an inexpensive "shop light" fixture, a
timer, and two bulbs (one is warm spectrum, one is a "cool
white"). Total cost was about 25 dollars. I leave the light on
from 14 to 16 hours per day, and keep my plants as close as
possible to the tubes. Indoor plants also need different watering
schedules than outdoor trees. In the summer, when most outdoor
trees are growing vigorously and have nice warm breezes and a nice
bright sun, they will usually need to be watered everyday. Indoor
bonsai are in very different conditions.
A special thank you to Hud Nordin for the following list of indoor
bonsai.
In Dorothy Young's "Bonsai: the Art and Technique", for warm
indoor temperatures (65-75 daytime), she suggests:
Araucaria heterophylla (Norfolk Island pine)
Bougainvillea glabra
Brassaia actinophylla (Schefflera)
Calliandra emarginata (powder-puff)
Carissa grandiflora (Natal plum)
Ceratonia siliqua (Carob)
Citrus limon (lemon)
Crassula argentea (jade tree)
Cuphea hyssopifolia (elfin herb)
Cycas revoluta (cycad)
Ehretia microphylla (fukien tea)
Ficus aurea (strangler fig), F. benjamina, deltoidea, microcarpa,
neriifolia, pumila, rubignosa [big win in the fig family!]
Grevillea robusta (silk oak)
Hedera helix (ivy)
Lagerstroemia indica (crape myrtle)
Malpighia coccigera & glabra (miniature holly & Barbados cherry)
Myrtus communis (Greek myrtle)
Olea europaea (olive)
Pithecellobium flexicaule (Texas ebony)
Punica granatum (pomegranate)
Pyracantha coccinea, fortunaea, koidzumii (everlasting thorn,
Chinese fire thorn, Formosa fire thorn)
Sageretia thea (sageretia)
Schinus terebinthifolius (Brazilian pepper)
Serissa foetida (serissa)
Severinia buxifolia (Chinese box orange)
Syzygium paniculatum (brush cherry)
60 F - 65 F Daytime Temperatures
Araucaria heterophylla (Norfolk Island pine)
Brassaia actinophylla (Schefflera)
Calliandra emarginata (dwarf powder puff)
Ceratonia siliqua (carob tree)
Chamaecyparis pisifera, thyoides (Sawara cypress, dwarf white
cedar)
Cotoneaster microphyllus (Chinese cotoneaster)
Cryptomeria japonica (Japanese cedar)
Cupressus arizonica, macrocarpa, sempervirens (Arizona, Monterey,
Italian cypress)
Cycas revoluta (cycad)
Ficus benjamina, carica, deltoidea, microcarpa, nerrifolia,
pumila,
rubiginosa (figs)
Gardenia jasminoides (common gardenia)
Hedera helix (English ivy)
Ilex crenata, vomitoria (Japanese, Yaupon holly)
Juniperus chinensis var. procumbens, squamata (procumbent,
prostrate
juniper)
Ligustrum japonica (Japanese privet)
Murraya paniculata (Orange jasmine)
Myrtus communis (Greek myrtle)
Nandina domestica (heavenly bamboo)
Olea europaea (European olive)
Pithecellobium flexicaule (Texas ebony)
Pittosporum tobira (Mock orange)
Podocarpus macrophyllus (Buddhist pine)
Polyscias balfouriana, fruticosa (Balfour, ming aralia)
Punica granatum (pomegranate)
Pyracantha coccinea, fortuneana, koidzumii (everlasting thorn,
Chinese
fire thorn, Formosa fire thorn)
Rhododendron indicum, kiusianum (satsuki, kyushu azalea)
Sageretia thea (sageretia)
Serissa foetida (serissa)
Severinia buxifolia (Chinese box orange)
Ulmus parvifolia (Chinese elm, especially the Catlin)
Cool (40 F - 60 F) Daytime Temperatures
(Bring indoors in winter, and take them outdoors in the spring.)
Buxus microphylla and sempervirens (boxwood)
Chaenomeles japonica (Japanese flowering quince)
Chamaecyparis obtusa, pisifera, thyoides (Hinoki, Sawara cypress,
dwarf white cedar)
Cryptomeria japonica (Japanese cedar)
Ilex crenata (Japanese holly)
Juniperus chinensis var. procumbens, squamata (procumbent,
prostrate
juniper)
Nandina domestica (heavenly bamboo)
Pyracantha angustifolia, coccinea (fire thorn, everlasting thorn)
Rhododendron indicum, kiusianum (satsuki, Kyushu azalea)
Thuja occidentalis (American arborvitae)
Ulmus parvifola (Chinese elm)
Section 9 -- Clubs, Associations
Clubs and Associations
-------------------------
*Please have your club included here! It is NOT for vanity
purposes, its for the new people to find your group!*
*****************************************************************
INTERNATIONAL ORGANIZATIONS
*****************************************************************
BONSAI CLUBS INTERNATIONAL
B.C.I. is a non-profit, world-wide, educational organization
that was created to advance the education of bonsai, to
promote the appreciation and enjoyment of the art of bonsai
and to encourage the formation of Bonsai Clubs, Societies,
Associations and Federations throughout the world. Membership
in BCI is open to all individuals and clubs that have an interest
in bonsai. Benefits of membership include:
BONSAI MAGAZINE - Six issues per year of an outstanding magazine.
AUDIO/VIDEO LIBRARY - Largest bonsai a/v lending library anywhere.
INTERNATIONAL CONVENTIONS - Sponsorship of bonsai conventions
around the world.
VIDEOS - Videos that are available only from BCI.
BOOKS - Buy your books at a discount.
Membership in BCI will bring the world of bonsai to your door.
Membership helps to promote bonsai world-wide.
Join BCI and help spread the love and enjoyment of bonsai.
Bonsai Clubs International
Department IN
c/o Virginia Ellerman
2636 W. Mission Road #277
Tallahassee, FL 32304-2556
USA
FAX 904.864.1410
Membership dues payable in $US funds by check, money order, Visa
or Master Card. Individual member $32, Voting Member Club $32,
Federation member $32, Youth member (under 18 yrs) $20, Silver
member $100, Gold member $500, Platinum member $1200, Life member
$1200. Add $27 for airmail delivery.
*****************************************************************
AFRICA
*****************************************************************
Natal Midlands Bonsai Society
Box 101351
Pietermaritzburg
Natal
South Africa
We meet every second saturday of the month and have demo's and
workshops.
Contact : ÒClive McInnes" <CL...@icfr.unp.ac.za>
*****************************************************************
ASIA
*****************************************************************
None submitted yet. How odd.
*****************************************************************
AUSTRALIA
*****************************************************************
Nepean Bonsai Society
Meets at Penrith Teachers Centre,
Corner Doonmore & Lethbridge Streets,
Penrith NSW
4th Sunday of Month at 2pm & 3rd Tuesday of Month at 7pm for 2 about hours.
President: David Terry Tel: (047) 393086
Secretary: Rae Reynolds: Tel: (047) 352833
The Bonsai Society of Australia
Meets at Normanhurst Public School,
Normanhurst Road,
Normanhurst NSW
1st Tuesday of each month (except January)
President: Mrs Dot Koreshoff (02) 6342410
Secretary: Mrs Jean Longhurst (02) 8094902
Bendigo Bonsai Club
C/O P. O. Box 98
Kangaroo Flat VIC 3555
President: Pam Caswell (054) 478086
Secretary: Nina Bingham (054) 752125
Geelong Bonsai Club Inc.,
PO Box 1175
Geelong VIC 3220.
Meets the first Monday of every month (except January) at the rear hall,
St Mary's Hall, Corner of Bellarine and Myers Streets, Geelong, at 7.30.
President: Bob White
Secretary: Cassandra Perry
Treasurer: Heather Dean
Notes:
Our show is the weekend of 13-15 October in St Mary's Hall.
We have several special workshops during the year;
Workshop is scheduled August 19 for a visit to Ted Poynton's nursery in
Melbourne.
The Bonsai Society of Queensland.
PO Box 220,
Moorooka QLD 4105
(07) 275 2290.
Meets 4th Thursday of every month except December at 730pm,
Uniting Church Hall,
52 Merthyr Road,
New Farm,
Brisbane QLD.
President: Jan Lausson, (07) 358 1601;
Secretary: Glenis Webb,
Bimer Bonsai Club.
Meets first saturday afternoon of each month, 1.00pm,
Mormon Church Hall,
Jaguar Street,
West Chermside,
Brisbane QLD
Telephone Info for Australia dialing from other countries.
Please dial you international direct dial access code followed by
Australia's country code of 61 and then the number minus the leading zero.
eg: (047) 123456 would be +6147123456
also,
Australia is moving from a 9 digit numbering scheme to a 10 digit numbering
scheme. As some cities move to the new scheme, the numbers will change.
I will try to keep this list updated but if you have troubles, try
the Australian directory assistance.
Submitted by: Greg McCall <g...@PSMO.MNE.TELECOM.COM.AU>
Here are a few more:
Albury Wodonga Bonsai Scociety (N.S.W.)
Pres. Jeff Gates.
527 Affleck St. Albury,N.S.W. 2640
Sec. Danny Merat ph.(060) 21 2792
685 Holmwood Cross, Albury.N.S.W. 2640
Corresondence PO. Box 729 Albury. N.S.W. 2640
Meetings 3rd.Monday (ex Jan.),C.E.C. Hall,
South St. Wodonga, Vic. 7.30 p.m.
Armidale District Bonsai Scociety(N.S.W.)
Pres. Loise Chaffey ph (067) 72 8102
57 Taylor St.Armidale.N.S.W. 2350
Sec. Jeannie Supple ph (067) 72 9964
12 Werrina Cres.Armidale.N.S.W. 2350
Meetings 2nd.Wednesday, Dumaresq Shire
Council Building, Beardy St.
Armidale. N.S.W. 7 30 p.m.
Autralian Associated Bonsia Clubs
Pres. Lindsay Bebb ph (07) 275 2290
8 Fegan Dr. Moorooka. Qld. 4105
Sec. Collin Hassall ph (06) 289 6208
19 Sinclair St. Kambah A.C.T.2902
Australian National Bonsai Association(N.S.W.)
Pres. Jim Scott ph (02) 416 4413
5 Grassmere Rd. Lindfield.N.S.W. 2070
Sec. Barbara Thompson ph (02) 876 3584
12 Surrey St. Epping N.S.W.2121
Meetings Last Saturday (ex Dec.-Jan)
Epping Annexe, Ryde School
of Agriculture,T.A.E.F.,
Chelmsford Rd. Epping,N.S.W.
1-4 p.m.
Australian National Bonsai Association
(Canberra chapter -A.C.T.)
Pres. John White ph (06) 281 3458
86 Schlich St.Yarralumba.A.C.T. 2600
Sec. Wallie Tietze ph (06) 295 3528
10 Sprent St.Narrabunda.A.C.T. 2604
Meetings 2nd. Sunday Members Homes 10 a.m.
Bairnsdale Bonsai Group (Vic.)
Pres. Gwen Livera ph (051) 56 4334
P.O. Swan Reach.Vic. 3903
Sec. Doris Gabriel ph (0510 56 4417
P.O. Swan Reach. Vic. 3903
Meetings 1st. Saturday, B.A.C.E.
Dalmahoy St. Bairnsdale.
1.30 p.m.
Bayside Bonsai Scoiety (Vic.)
Pres. Steven Jarraold ph (03) 772 2542
22 Patterson St.Bonbeach Vic. 3196
Sec. Jennifer Allerton ph (03) 787 8189
20 Alverstone Dr. Mount Aliza,
Vic. 3930
Meetings 2nd Monday,Chelsea Heights
Community Centre, Bezley Reserve
Thames Promenard, Chelsea Heights
7.30 p.m.
Beechworth & District Bonsai Scociety
(Vic.)
Pres. Neil Padbury ph (060) 27 1824
R.M.B. 6471, Wodonga Vic. 3690
Sec. Bill Savage ph (057) 28 2696
126 High St. Beechworth Vic. 3747
Meetings 1st. Monday, Beechworth Neighborhood
Centre, Ford St. Beechworth 7.30 p.m.
Bendigo Bonsai Club Inc. (Vic.)
Pres. Pam Caswell ph (054) 47 8086
Crusoe Rd.Kangaroo Flat, Vic. 3555
Sec. Nina Bingham ph (054) 75 2125
1 Reef St. Maldon,Vic.3463
Meetings 3rd. Friday (Feb-May & Sep-Nov)
The Saints Church Hall
60 Halvin St. West. Bendigo 7.30 p.m.
Beresfield School of Bonsai (N.S.W.)
Prse. Bill Pestell ph (049) 66 2174
28 Horthorne St. Beresfield N.S.W.
2322
Sec. Jean Pestell ph (049) 66 2174
28 Horthorne St. Beresfield N.S.W.
2322
Bimer Bonsai Club Inc. (Qld.)
Pres. Elaine Pollard ph (07) 264 1289
7 Dalcoath St.Albany Creek Qld.
4035
Sec. Bruce Harkness
P.O.Box 64.Geebung Qld.4034
NB. All mail to President
Meetings 1st. Saturday (ex. Jan), Church of
Latter Day Saints Hall,Jaquar St.
West Chermside. 1.30 - 5 p.m.
Bonsai Reserch Group (N.S.W.)
Convenor. John Mathews ph (043) 28 5326
24 Calantha Dr. Wyoming N.S.W.
2250
Meetings 1st. Saturday, Members Homes
1.30 - 4 p.m.
Bonsai Society of Australia Inc.(N.S.W.)
Pres. Dorothy Koreshoff ph (02) 634 2410
Lot G. Telper Rd.Castle Hill
N.S.W. 2154
Sec. Jean Longhurst ph (02) 809 4902
29 Beattie Ave.Ryde N.S.W. 2112
Meetings 2nd. Wednesday (ex Jan)
St. Andrews Church Hall, Hill St.
Roseville 8 p.m.
Bonsai Society of Ballarat (Vic.)
Pres Peter Smith ph (053) 346 346
R.M.B. A343 Miners Rest Vic. 3352
Sec. Lois Morris ph (053) 346 274
Sunraysia Highway, Roadside Delvery
B.620 ,Ballarat Vic. 3350
Meetings 3rd. Friday, BRACE,Urquhart St.
Ballarat. 7.30 for 8 p.m.
Bonsai Society of Mount Gambier (S.A.)
Pres. Kathleen Finney ph (087) 23 2384
3A Werona St. Mount Gambier S.A.
5290
Sec. Gary Graham ph (087) 25 3379
47 Lake Terrace East,
Mount Gamier S.A. 5290
Meetings 3rd.Tuesday (ex Jan.)
Girl Guides Hall, Hanson St.
Mount Gambier 7.30 p.m.
Bonsai Society of Queensland (Qld.)
Sec. Glenis Bebb
P.O.Box 220 Moorooka, Qld.4105
Meetings 4th.Thursday, Uniting Church Hall,
52 Merthyr Rd. New Farm 7.30 p.m.
Bonsai Society of Southern Peninsula
(Vic.)
Pres. Beth Busby ph (059) 86 3153
34 Morion Rd. Rosebud South, Vic.
3939
Sec. Jeff Burzacott ph (03) 776 7231
2 Invermay Crt. Frankston Vic. 3199
Meetings 3rd.Thursday (ex. Dec.),Church of
Christ Hall, Darvall St. Tootgarook
7.30 -9.30 p.m.
Bonsai Society of Southern Tasmania
(Tas.)
Pres. Noel Kemp ph (002) 43 6296
50 Derwent Ave.LInisfarne,Tas. 7015
Sec. Audrey McCarthy ph (002) 72 1082
64 Amy St. West Moonah, Tas. 7009
Meetings 3rd. Tuesday (ex Dec.- Jan.)
Bellerive Community Arts Centre,
17 Cambridge Rd. Bellerive. 7.30 p.m.
Bonsai Society of Victoria Inc. (Vic.)
Pres. Jeffry Farman ph (03) 592 8628
166 The Esplanade, Brighton,
Vic. 3186
Sec. Geoffery Vanner ph (03) 435 5155
200 Henry St. Greensborough,
Vic. 3088
Meetings 4th. Monday (ex Dec) St. John's
Church Hall, cnr. Toorak &
Orrong rds. Toorak 7.30 p.m.
Bonsai Society of Western Australia Inc.
(W.A.)
Pres. David Edwards ph (09) 474 2361
3/26 Strickland St. South Perth
W.A. 6151
Sec. Nigel Atkinson ph (09) 330 6242
10 Choules Place, Myaree W.A. 6154
Meetings Last Monday (ex. Dec.),South
Perth Civic Centre 8 - 10 p.m.
Bonsai Tetsudare Hito Group (N.S.W.)
Pres. Richard Beeston ph (02) 428 3172
46 Karilla Ave. Lane Cove,
N.S.W. 2066
Meetings ?
Bunderburg Bonsai Club (Qld.)
Pres. Sylvia Galea ph (071) 51 4168
12 Halpin St. Bunderburg,Qld.4670
Sec. Margaret Harrower ph (071) 51 4995
40 Avokahville Ave. Bunderburg.
Qld. 4670
Meetings 2nd Tuesday 40 Avokahville Ave.
Bunderburg 7 p.m.
Cairns & District Bonsai Study Group
(Qld.)
Pres. V. Kidner ph (070) 54 4465
28 Hoad St. Earville Qld. 4870
Meetings ?
Campbelltown Bonsai Group (N.S.W.)
Pres. Peter Gorman
12 Donalbin Circuit Rosemeadow
N.S.W. 2560
Meetings Every Monday & Tuesday, Church of
Christ Hall, cnr. Hoddle ave. &
Lewis St. Campbelltown. 7.30 - 9.30 p.m.
Canberra Bonsai Society Inc. (A.C.T.)
Pres. Tim Smith ph (06) 282 2597
P.O.Box E101, Canberra A.C.T. 2600
Sec. Lorraine Van Horne
5 Renwick St.Chifley A.C.T. 2606
Meetings 1st. Saturday (ex Jan.) National
Press Club,16 National Circuit,
Barton 10 a.m.
Canberra School of Bonsai (A.C.T.)
Pres. John White ph (06) 281 3458
86 Schlich St. Yarralumla,A.C.T.
2600
Sec. Shirley White ph (06) 281 3458
86 Schlich St. Yarralumla, A.C.T.
2600
Meetings Private lessons by appointment.
Cumberland Bonsai Society (N.S.W.)
Pres. Doreen Kelly ph (02) 674 1360
6 Delgaun Pl. Baulkham Hills,
N.S.W. 2153
Sec. Linda Vall ph (02) 636 4281
170 Whalans Rd. Greystanes, N.S.W.
2145
Meetings 4th.Monday, Uniting Church Hall
Hammers Rd. Northmead 7.30 p.m.
Darwin Bonsai Club Inc. (N.T.)
Sec. Michelle Paroz
G.P.O. Box 4097,Darwin. N.T.0801
Meeting ?
Devonport Bonsai Society (Tas.)
Pres. Des Saunders ph (004) 242 128
3 Sauders Ct. Devonport, Tas.7310
Sec. Vanessa Haslem
6 Madden Pl. Devonport, Tas. 7310
Meeting ?
Eastern Districts Bonsai Club Inc.
(N.S.W.)
Pres. Nancy Taylor ph (02) 399 3134
291 Darling Rd. Ranwick,N.S.W.2031
Sec. Kate Osborne ph (02) 349 2458
36a Boyce Rd. Maroubra, N.S.W.2035
P.O.Box 120. Kensington N.S.W.2033
Meetings 1st. Tuesday, Clarrie Martin Hall
61 Newlands St. Bondi Junction
7.30 p.m.
Geelong Bonsai Club Inc. (Vic.)
Pres. Bob White ph (052) 56 1490
11 Cuttle Crt.Ocean Grove Vic.3226
Sec. Cassandra Perry ph (052) 23 1049
114 Skene St. Newtown Vic. 3220
P.O.Box 1175, Geelong Vic. 3220
Meetings 1st. Monday (ex Jan.) St Mary's
Hall,Myer St. Geelong 7.30 p.m.
Gold Coast - Tweed Bonsai Club (Qld.)
Pres. Rod Brown ph (075) 34 5846
11 Dianella Crt.Elanora Qld.4221
Sec. Irene McDade ph (075) 24 5084
33 Banora Bvd. Banora Point,
N.S.W. 2486
Meetings 2nd. Saturday.C.W.A.Rooms (next
to Winders Park & Air Sea Rescue
Station). Currumbin. 1.30 p.m.
Goulburn Bonsai Society (N.S.W.)
Pres. Pat Alford ph (048) 21 8028
90 Deccan St.Gouldburn N.S.W.2580
Sec. Greg Watson ph (048) 21 1848
3 Betts St. Gouldburn N.S.W. 2580
Meetings Last Sunday Members' Homes
10.30 a.m.
Goulburn Valley Bonsai Club Inc. (Vic.)
Pres. Marc Scanlon ph (058) 21 5474
6 Maxwell St. Mooroopna Vic. 3629
Sec. Anne Timm-Murphy ph (058) 25 3231
12 Coe Crt. Mooroopna Vic. 3629
Meetings 2nd. Monday, Shepparton Senior
Citizens Hall,Welsford St.
Sheparton 7.30 p.m.
Hastings Bonsai Group (N.S.W.)
Pres.Margret Trotter ph (065) 85 1463
13 Graham St.Wauchope N.S.W.2446
Sec. George Porter ph (065) 83 1239
6/20 Oxley Crs.Port Maquarie,
N.S.W. 2446
Meetings 3rd. Saturday, Branch's Nursery,
Table St. Port Maquarie 1 -3.30 p.m.
Illawarra Bonsai society Inc.(N.S.W.)
Pres Geoff Henderson
24 Berith St.Kingsgrove, N.S.W.
2208
Sec. Jan Briggs ph (02) 528 5749
P.O.Box 294,Jannali N.S.W. 2226
Meetings 3rd. Monday, Gymea Community Centre
Gymea Bay Rd. Gymea 8 p.m.
Kempsey Bonsai Group Inc. (N.S.W.)
Pres. Colleen Cameron ph (065) 65 4816
"Camadoon", Black Creek Rd.
Kinchela Creek N.S.W. 2440
Sec. Michael Scott ph (065) 67 1264
P.O.Box 167,West Kempsey N.S.W.
2440
Meetings 3rd. Saturday,Anglican Youth Centre
Marsh St.Kemsey 1 p.m.
Manning Valley Bonsai Club (N.S.W.)
Sec. Carole Ried ph (065) 56 3019
Lot 522 Landsdowne Rd. Coopernook,
N.S.W. 2426
Meetings 4th. Saturday, Taree Public School,
Wingham Rd. Taree West 12 noon-4 p.m.
Mitsubishi Bonsai Club (S.A.)
Pres. Dean Bond ph (08) 381 2648
P.O.Box 644.Brighton S.A. 5048
Meetings Usually alternate Tuesdays;
1st Workshop
2nd Worksop / Critiques
Cafateria Mitsubishi Motors Aust. Ltd.
South Rd. Cloverlly Park 7.30 p.m.
McArthur Bonsai Group
(Campbelltown N.S.W.)
Sec.. Heather Shannon ph (046) 31 1243
32 Kennedy St.Appin N.S.W. 2560
Meetings 1st. Saturday,Members' Homes 2 -4 p.m.
Muswellbrook Bonsai Society (N.S.W.)
Pres. Terry Stephens ph (065) 42 3025
Towanni St.Muswellbrook N.S.W.
2333
Sec. Marianne Harwood ph (065) 43 3861
50 Maitland St.Muswellbrook
N.S.W. 2333
Meetings 4th. Saturday,Members' Homes
10 a.m. - 3 p.m.
Naracoorte Bonsai Club (S.A.)
Pres. Kathryn Hole ph (087) 62 1330
P.O.Box 48,Naracoorte S.A. 5271
Sec. Patricia Harrold ph (087) 62 3470
P.O.Box 887,Naracoorte S.A. 5271
Meetings 4th Tuesday (ex. Dec.) Guide Hall,
Porter St. Naracoorte 7 p.m.
Nepean District Bonsai Society (N.S.W.)
Pres. John Marsh ph (047) 21 4994
P.O.Box 1176 Penrith N.S.W. 2751
Sec. Rae Reynolds ph (047) 35 2833
49 Brumby Crs.Emu Plains N.S.W.
2750
Meetings 3rd Tuesday 7 p. m. & 4th Sunday
2 p.m.Teachers Centre,Cnr Doonmore
& Lethbridge sts. Penrith ("BRINGA")
Newcastle Bonsai Society Inc.
Pres. Robert (Bob) Flanagan ph (049) 71 3370
36 Farbse St. Swansea,N.S.W. 2281
Sec. Brain Hartcher ph w.(049)92 1224
25 Chapman St. ph h (049)92 1376
Dungog, N.S.W. 2420
Meetings 2nd Saturday,Guide Hsll Burton St.
Mount Hutton. 10 a.m. - 5 p.m.
Northern Beaches Bonsai Society
Pres. Niki McCarthy
Sec. Shirley Reilly ph (02) 918 3264
P.O.Box 325. Newport Beach,N.S.W.
2106
Meetings ?
Sakura Bonsai Studio Inc.
Pres. Georgina Kretschmar ph (02) 636 4261
55 Scott St. Toongabbie. N.S.W.2146
Sec. Galen Gannon ph (02) 452 5420
27 Merrilee St.Frenchs Forest
N.S.W. 2086.
Mail P.O.Box 174 Forestville 2087
Meetings 1st. Sunday, Japanese School,
112 Booralie Rd. Terrey Hills
9.30 a.m. - 12.30 p.m.
Sale Bonsai Club Inc. (Vic.)
Pres. John Mowbray ph (051) 44 5561
17 Indra Crt.Sale, Vic. 3850
Sec. Rory Ester ph (051) 44 5997
101 Raglan St. Sale,Vic. 3850
Meetings 1st.Thursday,Sale Angling Club
South Gippsland Hwy.Sale.7.30 p.m.
South Australian Bonsai Society Inc. (S.A.)
Pres. Peter Alderson ph (08) 381 9343
12 Kiah Crs. Sheidown Park S.A.
5158
Sec. Judy Neate ph (08) 336 5787
3 Shepherd Lane, Campbelltown
S.A. 5074
Meetings 1st.Tuesday 8 p.m.,
3rd Tuesday 7.30 p.m.(ex. Jan.)
Illingworth Hall,Hampton St.
Goodwood.
South Coast Bonsai Society
(" Urimbirra N.S.W.)
Pres. Norm Ketteringham ph (042) 61 3264
86 Kanahooka Rd. Dapto N.S.W.2530
Sec. John Parker
7 Brights Pde. Dapto N.S.W. 2530
Meetings 2nd.Tuesday (ex.Dec.-Jan.)
Wollongong TAFE Recreation Centre
7 p.m.
Summerland Bonsai Society Inc.(N.S.W.)
Pres. Stephen Stewart
P.O.Box 158. Lismore Heights,
N.S.W. 2480
P.O.Box 158. Lismore Heights,
N.S.W. 2480
Sec. Irene Sekalic
28 Highview Crs. Modanville,
N.S.W. 2480
Meetings 1st Suturday, Lismore Public
School 1 p.m.
Sunshine Bonsai Group (Vic.)
Pres. Peter Anderson ph (03) 314 7245
24 Finlay St. Yarraville,Vic 3013
Sec. Brad Smith ph (03) 687 5365
32 Ovens St. Yarraville,Vic.3013
Meetings 1st. Monday (ex. Jan.) Sunshine
West Community Centre, West
Tamworth Bonsai Club (N.S.W.)
Sec. Doreen Goddard ph (067) 67 6216
"Glen Avon", Winton,via Duri,
N.S.W. 2344
Meetings 3rd.Saturday,23 Moaray St,
Tamworth. 2 - 4 p.m.
Tasmania Bonsai Group (Tas.)
Pres. Tony Hewer ph (002) 44 5336
5 Waverley Crt.Bellerive,Tas.7018
Sec. Gorden Mathers ph (002) 49 8149
8 Aldridge Crt.Austins Ferry,Tas.
7011
Nb. Mail to President
Meetings 2nd. Tuesday, Bellerive Community
Arts Centre, 17 Cambridge Rd.
Bellerive. 7.30 -10.30 p.m.
Tasmanian Bonsai Society (Tas.)
Pres. Michael McLaren
26 Hillfarm Drv. Burnie, Tas.7320
Sec. Neil Hardstaff ph (004) 31 5676
P.O.Box 1054,Burnie,Tas. 7320
Meetings Last Tuesday (ex. Dec. & Jan.)
Hellyer Matriculation College
Moorville Rd. Burnie. 7.30 p.m.
Tenterfield Horticultural Society Inc.
Bonsai Club (N.S.W.)
Pres. Nell Cowley ph (067) 36 1087
"Fair View", P.O.Box 264
Tenterfield,N.S.W. 2372
Sec. June Chalmer ph (067) 36 2500
161 Pelham St.Tenterfield,N.S.W.
2372
Meetings 1st.Tuesday,161 Pelham St, or
Members' Homes 10 a.m.-12 noon.
The Bonsai Workshop (W.A.)
Pres. Karen Montgomery ph (09) 341 7442
170b Elliot Rd.Scarborough, W.A.
6019
Sec. Chris Cairns ph (09) 276 2912
P.O.Box 279,Scarborough,W.A.6019
Meetings 1st.Saturday,Guide Hall,
Cnr.Scarborough & Hancock rds.
Doubleview. 1 -4 p.m.
The National Capital Bonsai Group
(A.C.T.)
Convenor John White ph (06) 281 3458
86 Schlich St. Yarralumla A.C.T.
2600
Meetings 2nd Sunday, Members' Homes 10 a.m.
The School of Bonsai (N.S.W.)
Pres. William Curtis
Sec. Rhonnie Cavanagh
P.O.Box 4510, North Rocks,N.S.W.
2151
Meetings Ten Classes per week, Eastwood
Town Hall,Agincourt Rd. Marsfield
The Wagga Wagga Bonsai Society (N.S.W.)
Pres. Wendy Kotzur ph (069) 22 7788
7 Sackville Drv.,Forest Hill,
Wagga Wagga N.S.W. 2651
Sec. Pauline McCallum ph (069) 22 5063
18 Stanley St. Wagga Wagga N.S.W.
2650
Meetings 1st Tuesday,A.R.C.C. Centre
Tarcutta St.Wagga Wagga 7.30 p.m.
Tokonoma Bonsai Society Coffs Harbour Inc.
(N.S.W.)
Pres. Tony Lea ph (066) 69 5650
9 Gedgee,Valla Park Resort,
Valla Beach,N.S.W. 2448
Sec. Betty Crawford ph (066) 53 6370
P.O.Box 811,Coffs Harbour N.S.W.
2450
Meetings 1st. Saturday,C.W.A. House,
Little St. Coffs Harbour
1.30 - 4.30 p.m.
Toowoomba Bonsai Group Inc. (Qld.)
Pres. Lyn Aston ph (076) 35 9613
14 Oak Crt.Toowoomba,Qld.4350
Sec. Val Geddes ph (076) 35 1666
11 Stehn St. Toowoomba,Qld.4350
Meetings 1st. Satuday 1.30 -5 p.m.
3rd. Tuesday 7 - 10 p.m.
Raff St.Uniting Church Hall,
Toowoomba.
Tropical Bonsai Association
(Tableland Branch Qld.)
Pres. Barry Johns ph (070) 92 3857
15 Lerra St.Mareeba Qld. 3880
Sec. Fran Truelove ph (070) 92 1441
P.O.Box 395 Mareeba,Qld. 4880
Meetings 4th. Monday,Tableland College
of TAFE,Tinaroo Creek Rd. Mareeba
7.30 p.m.
Waverley Garden Club Inc.-Bonsai Group
(Vic.)
Pres. Ted Harris ph (03) 802 5145
8 Marabray Drv. Glen Waverley,
Vic. 3150
Sec. Margret Smith ph (03) 725 8908
44 Homer Ave., Croydon South,
Vic. 3136
Meetings 3rd Tuesday,St.John's Uniting
Church Hall,Virginia St.
Mount Waverley. 8 - 10 p.m.
Western Suburbs Bonsai Group (N.S.W.)
Pres. Alan Mottlee ph (02) 743 1967
5 Gowland Parade,Panaia,N.S.W.
2213
Sec. Betty Bishop
5/15 Hill Rd.West Pentland Hills,
N.S.W. 2125
Meetings 1st. Friday, St. Paul's Church
Hall,207 Burwood Rd., Burwood.
7.30 p.m.
Weston Creek Bonsai Group (A.C.T.)
Pres. Merle McCarthy ph (06) 231 8113
15 Lawernce Crs.Kamah.A.C.T.2902
Sec. Lucella Foreman ph (06) 295 7678
26 Scarborough St. Red Hill
A.C.T. 2603
Meetings 2nd. Wednesday (ex. July & August)
Weston Creek Community Centre,
Parkinson St. Weston 7.30 p.m.
Submitted by: Eric P. Shugg E-Mail epsh...@melbpc.org.au
Melbourne, Victoria, Australia.'phone (03) 9459 5742
Member of the Bonsai Society of Victoria and
Melbourne P C User Group Inc.
*****************************************************************
EASTERN EUROPE
*****************************************************************
None Submitted
*****************************************************************
MIDDLE EAST
*****************************************************************
None Submitted
*****************************************************************
EUROPEAN UNION and CENTRAL EUROPE
*****************************************************************
*****************************************************************
Europe
*****************************************************************
- European Bonsai Association (E.B.A.)
c/o Groenstraat 28
B-9170 WAASMUNSTER
*****************************************************************
Austria
*****************************************************************
- Osterreichischer Bonsai Club
Zaunmullerstrasse 1
A-4020 LINZ
*****************************************************************
Belgium
*****************************************************************
- Vlaamse Bonsaivereniging V.Z.W
Eikstraat 60
B-9300 AALST
*****************************************************************
Czecoslovaquia
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- Ing. Karel Jan Stolc
Veletrzni 29
17000 PRAHA
*****************************************************************
Denmark
*****************************************************************
Dansk Bonsaiselskab
-----------------------------------------------
Soren Jensen (2. char is danish 'oe')
Hovangshaven 25,1 (2. char is danish 'oe')
6700 Esbjerg
Denmark
telf.:75 45 38 20
----------------------------------------------
E-Mail contact, use member :
Klaus_Buddig_Johan...@online.pol.dk,Internet
*****************************************************************
France
*****************************************************************
Update : December 1994
Created by : Patrick SCHERMESSER (scher...@jupiter.saclay.cea.fr)
Distributed by : Laurent GENTZBITTEL (ge...@cicc.univ-bpclermont.fr)
Bonsai Club de Nice
MJC Nice Magnan
31 Rue louis Coppet
0600 Nice
Bonsai Club d'Ornaison
Mr Bourdin
Cite Le Pech
11200 Ornaison
Bonsai Club du Rouergat
CAYSSAC
12740 LA LOUBIERE
San Sui Bonsai Association
Mr Tran VAn Ba
Quartier Rigoues
13122 VENTABREN
Le club JArdin
Mas du moutonnet
Les quatres Chemins
13140 MIRAMAS
Bonsai Club du VAL
Laure GARNIER
9 Rue des Cailloins
14123 CORMELLES LE ROYAL
Bonsai Club du VAL
M. Barreau
1657 Rue de Breteville
14123 IFS
Amateurs de Bonsai
de la Charente Maritime
17700 SURGERES
Bonsai Loisir Saint Brieuc
Park Rouz
22440 TREMUSSON
Bonsai Club du Manoir
4 Impasse des Muriers
27460 IGOVILLE
Bonsai Club de Cornouaille
12 allee P. Blayau
KERMORGUER
29000 QUIMPER
Bonsai Club de l'Iroise
29490 GUIVAPAS
Bonsai Club Toulousain
MR Cardel
7 Av de Castellardit
31000 Toulouse
Bonsai Club de Montpellier
14 rue du college
34000 MONTPELLIER
Bezier Bonsai Club
Maison de la Vie associative
15 rue du Gal Margueritte
34500 BEZIER
Societe Horticole d'ille et vilaine
Section Bonsai
6 ave du Languedoc
35000 RENNES
ABCD Bonsai
Mr ROUXEL
151 Av Jean Perrot
38100 GRENOBLE
Bonsai Clup Alpin
Mr SUUN
Belle Fontaine
38110 ST CLAIR DE LA TOUR
Bonsai Club de Bourgoin
Mr Coquaz
7 rue Albert Camus
38300 BOURGOIN JALLIEU
Bonsai Club du Gresivaudan
Mme Passagia
63 rue A. MAlraux
38290 CROLLES
Groupe Bonsai de l'Estuaire
Mr Pringent
14 rue Richepin
Mr Pringent
14 rue Richepin
44600 ST NAZAIRE
Bonsai Lotois
M RACHOU
Le Cairac
46150 CALAMANE
Bonsai Dervois
M JEANJEAN
52220 LONGEVILLE / LAINE
ANAB
Mr Roi
54 bis rue de METZ
54000 NANCY
Bonsai Club de la Nievre
les jardins d'Omiya
128 route de Lyon plagny
58000 SERMOISE / LOIRE
Bonsai Club Lyonnais
Mr BOIS
2 rue Bichat
69002 Lyon
Bourgogne BOnsai Club
Mr LEGLISE
Route de Givry
71640 DRACY le FORT
Yamadori Bonsai Club
Mr SOMM
Le tresort vert
74370 ARGONAY
Club vendeen du bonsai
M Dunet
Le moulin des landes
85430 AUBIGNY
Societe horticole de Sens
6 les caves
ST martin du tertre
89100 SENS
Bonsai club de la puisaye
Mlle GRASSET
31 rue arrault
89130 TOUCY
Le petit Arbre
Mr Mohamed
287 Av jean Jaures
95100 ARGENTEUIL
Bonsai Club de ST Gratien
17 av Simon Hayem
95210 ST GRATIEN
Bonsai Club du tampon
110 rue des Poinsetias
97430 LE TAMPON-REUNION
Association Bonsai caledonien
Mr LIEGOIS
6 rue Francois Ecorchon
NOUMEA
NLLE CALEDONIE
Bonsai Club d'Antibes
M MERCADIER
299 Chemon du val pomme
06410 BIOT
Bonsai AUbois
Mr Thomas
34 rue des BAudons
10120 Saint POUANGE
ABC du Bonsai
res les Jardins de l"aude F4
11000 CARCASSONNE
Bonsai Club de Provence
Centre Culturel Communal
Avenue Jean Sliman
13720 LA BOUILLADISSE
Club du Bonsai de Basse Normandie
Mr Fourcault
8 rue ST Exupery
14123 IFS/BOURG
Bonsai Club de la Charente
Mr Marty
L'Ouche du Roy
16400 PUYMOYEN
Bonsai Club de Bourges
Mr Bellot
24 allee A. Rodin
18000 Bourges
Bonsai Club Vierzonnais
M. Mairesse
Rue Elysee Reclus
18100 VIERZON
Bonsai Gaulois
Le village
21150 MUSSY LA FOSSE
Bonsai Emeraude Rance
Mr Bourbeillon
14 place Duguesclin
22100 DINAN
Bonsai Club Girondin
Mr SACAL
355 route du Bouilh
33 240 ST andre de CUBZAC
Bonsai Clubd d'aquitaine
Maison des associations
Place de l'eglise
33520 BRUGES
Bonsai Club Serignais
Mr medina
Chemin des layres
34410 SERIGNAN
Bonsai Club du Forez
Mr Gandin
1 lot du Volvon
42340 VEAUCHE
Club des amis du bonsai
Mr Kervel
53 rue G. Bizot
44300 NANTES
Bonsai Club du Val de Loire
Mr Bidou
11 rue Bellebat
45000 ORLEANS
Bonsai club du plateau picard
4 rue de picardie
60130 ST JUST EN CHAUSSEE
Bonsai Club Alenconnais
14 rue des 15 fusilles
61400 MORTAGNE
Club Palois du Bonsai
Mme Belisson
14 rue de l'aubisque
64000 PAU
L'arbre en Pot
c/o JJ VERMARE
98 rue de verdun
69100 VILLEURBANNE
Les amis des bonsai de Plaisir
Catherine Chicard
121 rue J Brel
78370 PLAISIR
Bonsai Deux Sevres
Mr ARNAUD
23 route du Mougon
79260 LA CRECHE
Bonsai Club Avignon
Mr Gossand
37 Av de la republique
84000 AVIGNON
Bonsai club de Poitiers
M. Nonnet
46 rue d"artigny
86000 POITIERS
Bonsai Point du jour
Mr Molesti
87 Rue Marguerite Renaudin
92140 CLAMART
AFAB
M. Du Sorbier
8 rue lakanal
92230 SCEAUX
Bonsai YAMADORI
c/o MARIAUD
BEAUSOLEIL
Chemin des asones
0400 DIGNE LES BAINS
Atelier Bonsai des ardennes
Mme CHAFFER
Rue de L'enclos
08150 ROUVROY / AUDRY
Club Bonsai La Boulladisse
Mr ENARD
Chemin de Coutran
13720 LA BOUILLADISSE
Club du Bonsai Rhodanien
M POUZET
23 rue des Berouds
38150 SALISSE / SANNE
SLV Saint alban Bonsai
38550 ST MAURICE L'EXIL
Bonsai club Blesois
5 Av Montaigne
41000 BLOIS
Bonsai Club d"anjou
Mr FLOCK
17 rue du pied Moisi
49000 ANGERS
Bonsai club de lorraine
COJFA
1 Rue du Coetlosquet
57000 METZ
L'arbre dans la main
M. Delforge
10 rue Ancienne Dreve
59830 BACHY
Bonsai Club du Calaisis
Mr Thomas
13 rue des Payens Sud
62370 NORTERQUE
Les amis du bonsai
Mr denis
93 rue Barbin
72100 Le Mans
Club Bonsai et Nature
9 Bd Colonel Aubry
79300 BRESSUIRE
Bonsai club du Limousin
87520 La bouteille de Veyrac
The following appear to be national groups:
- Association Frangaise des amateurs de Bonsai (A.F.A.B.)
28 rue Lakanal
92000 SCEAUX
-------------------------
- Federation Francaise de Bonsai (F.F.B.)
25, rue de Chateaubriand
92290 Chatenay-Malabry
*****************************************************************
Germany
*****************************************************************
- Bonsai-Club Verein Europaischer Miniaturbaumereunde e.V.
Postfach 106209
D-6900 Heidelberg
-------------------------
Bonsai - Zentrum Muenster
Wolfgang Klemend
Weselerstr. 57
D-4400 Muenster
Germany
(note: Club AND Nursery)
*****************************************************************
Greece
*****************************************************************
- Nicolas ROUNTIS
Roynth Kifissias Ave. 105 a
Erychros Stavros
Athens
*****************************************************************
Holland
*****************************************************************
Nederlandse Bonsai Vereniging NBV
Rembrandtlaan 40
2271 GJ VOORBURG
The Netherlands
*****************************************************************
Italia
*****************************************************************
- Associazione Italiana Bonsai
Via G. Bruno 2
I- 50136 Florence
-------------------------
- Bonsai Club d'Italia
Str. Mongreno 341
I-10132 Turin
*****************************************************************
Luxembourg
*****************************************************************
- Bonsai Club Luxembourg
4, citi Kennedy
L-7234 Walferdange
*****************************************************************
New Zealand *****************************************************************
Aucland Bonsai Society
Pres. Robert Langholm ph 0-9-629 3662
Sec. Lois Wilkinson ph 0-9-838 5066
18a Matuhi Rise,Henderson,
Auckland
Meetings Last Wednesday, Greyfriars Church
Hall, Mt. Eden 7.30 p.m.
Balclutha Bonsai Club
Pres. Margret Woodrow ph 0-3-418 1825
Sec. Val Milligan ph 0-3-418 1310
14 Springfield St.Balcutha
Meetings 4th. Saturday, Ham Radio Rooms
Bay of Plenty Bonsai Society
Pres. Shirley Faull ph 0-7-575 4319
Sec. Susan Cannell ph 0-7-578 4854
1149 Cameron Rd. Tauranga
Meetings 2nd Wednesday,Otumoetai
Primary School 7.30 p.m.
Bonsai Waikato
Sec. Royce Barclay ph 0-7-856 6190
c/- Silverdale Pharmacy, Hamilton
Meetings 1st, Tuesday,Salvation Army Nest
Complex, Ohaupo Rd.Hamilton
7.30 p.m.
Christchurch Bonsai Society
Pres. David Batten ph 0-3-355 8678
Sec. Sheryl Evans ph 0-3-352 3987
11 Moreland Ave. Papanui,
Christchurch
Meetings 2nd. Wenesday,Union Hall
(Engineers), Cashel St. 7.30 p.m.
Eastern Bay of Plenty Bonsai Society
Refer Colin Churchill ph 0-7-323 7560
10 Porritt Drv. Kawerau
Meetings ?
Gore Bonsai Club
Pres. Lynda Tayles ph 0-3-202 5408
Sec. Olive Henderson ph 0-3-203 8051
11 Dover St. Mataura
Meetings 2nd Wednesday,Gore Camera
Clubrooms 7 p.m.
Hawkes Bay Bonsai Society
Sec. Barbara Wilinson
59 Reynolds Rd.Havelock North
Meetings 2nd Wednesday,Clive Community
Hall, 7.30 p.m.
Workshops St Johns Ambulance
Hall, Glouster St.Taradale
Invercargill Bonsai Group
Pres. Hunter Dunlop
Sec. Heather Arthur
Black Rd.,RD.9Otarara,
Invercargill
Meetings 1st. Monday, Crippled Childrens
Society Rooms 7.30 p.m.
Matamata Bonsai
Refer c/- Kamai View Garden Centre
Matamata
Meetings ?
Nelson Bonsai Club
Pres. Wendy Gibbs ph 0-3-542 8762
52 Fitfure Rd. Wakefield,Nelson
Meetings 1st. Monday, Stoke Hall,Stoke
7 p.m.
New Plymouth Bonsai Club
Pres. Leo Jury
Sec. Glenys Jckson ph 0-6-751 2589
74d Brois St.,New Plymouth
Meetings Last Saturday, Blind Foundation
Hall, Vivian St. New Plymouth
2 p.m.
Otago Bonsai Society
Pres. Joy Morton ph 0-3-484 4592
Sec. Carel Christiaans ph 0-3-489 5968
78 Bush Rd.Mosgiel.
Meetings 1st. Tuesday, Holy Cross Hall
Cnr. Ajax & Richardson St.
St. Kilda 7.30 p.m.
South Canterbury Bonsai Society
Pres. Wayne McLay ph 0-3-684 5768
Sec. Shirley Black ph 0-3-688 8396
Meetings 1st Wednesday, St. Stevens
Presbyterian Church Hall,
349 Wai-iti Rd. Timaru 7.30 p.m.
Wanganui Bonsai Buddies
Pres. Margret Brewer ph 0-6-344 4216
Sec. Lyn Hoskyn ph 0-6-345 7232
111 Portal St. Wanganui
Meetings 2nd Saturday, Members' Homes
Wellington Bonsai Society
Pres. Barbara May
Sec. Colleen McLean
59 Heke St. Ngaio Wellington
Meetings 4th. Suturday, Horticultural
Hall, Langs Rd. Lower Hutt
1.30 p.m.
Submitted by: Eric P. Shugg E-Mail epsh...@melbpc.org.au
Melbourne, Victoria, Australia.'phone (03) 9459 5742
Member of the Bonsai Society of Victoria and
Melbourne P C User Group Inc.
*****************************************************************
Norway
*****************************************************************
- Karli Eriksen
Asbjornsensgatan 35 A
7000 Trondheim
-------------------------
Stavanger Bonsai Forening
v/ Thomas Nilsen
Postbox 14, Sundebrotet
4040 Harfsfjord, Norge
telf.: 51 59 09 65
*****************************************************************
Spain
*****************************************************************
- Asociacion Espanola de Bonsai
Escuela Municipal de Jardineria
Paseo de la Pechina 15
E-8 Valencia
*****************************************************************
Sweden
*****************************************************************
Svenska Bonsaisdllskapet (a with two dots over)
c/o Margit Keberger (a with a ring over)
Kornbodsg. 27
S-72481 Vdsteres
*****************************************************************
United Kingdom
*****************************************************************
The Federation of British Bonsai Societies
Kath Hughes,
Rivendale,
14 Somerville Road,
Sutton Coldfield,
West Midlands.
B73 6JA.
Tel.:0121 354 8107
Fax.:0121 321 1131
BEDFORDSHIRE BONSAI SOCIETY
Mr J Mulcahy, 65 Richmond Hill, Luton Bedfordshire
BONSAI KAI
C.P. Ellis, 39 West Square, London SE11 4SP
BRISTOL BONSAI SOCIETY
D Barton, 35 Clevedon Road, Failand, Bristol, Avon BS8 3UL
BRITISH BONSAI ASSOCIATION
W.J. Horan, 23 Nimrod Road, Streatham, London SW16 6SZ
COTSWOLD BONSAI SOCIETY
S J Palmer, Keens Cottage, Middle Hill, Stroud, Gloucestershire
CROYDON BONSAI GROUP
Barabara Lunt, Tanglewood, Coldharbour, Common Rd, Lingfield, Surrey
EAST MIDLANDS BONSAI SOCIETY
H Tomlinson, Greenwood Gardens, Ollerton Road, Arnold, Nottingham
KEW KAI BONSAI
Mrs C Hall, 7 Crane Park Road, Twickenham, Middlesex, TW2 6DF
LINCOLN BONSAI SOCIETY
P Waller, 16 Rowan Road, Brant Road, Lincoln, LN5 9BS
MANCHESTER BONSAI SOCIETY
G L Fuller, 160 Cheadle Old Road, Edgeley, Stockport, SK3 9RH
MIDDLESEX BONSAI SOCIETY
Mrs J McCarthy, 54 Treganna Avenue, Harrow, Middlesex, HA2 8QS
MIDLAND BONSAI SOCIETY
Mrs V F Smart, 158 Bridgenorth Road, Wightwick, Wolverhampton WV6 8BE
NATIONAL BONSAI SOCIETY
W Faulkner, 24 Bidston Road, Liverpool L4 7XJ
NORFOLK BONSAI ASSOCIATION
Mrs J Carr, 27 West End, Old Costessy, Norwich, Norfolk
SCOTTISH BONSAI ASSOCIATION
J Russell 22 Buccleugh Street, Edinburgh EH8 91L
SOLENT BONSAI SOCIETY
R Filsell, 317 Forton Road, Gosport, Hants. PO12 3HF
SUSSEX BONSAI SOCIETY
D Piggott, 3 Noah's Ark Lane, Linfield, Sussex
WALTHAM FOREST BONSAI SOCIETY
Mrs V Butcher, 171 Shernall Street, Walthamstow, London E17 9MX
YORKSHIRE BONSAI ASSOCIATION
c/o the General Secretary, The United Reform Church,
Headingley Lane, Leeds 6, West Yorkshire
*****************************************************************
NORTH AMERICA
*****************************************************************
*****************************************************************
CANADA
*****************************************************************
The Toronto Bonsai Society
Contact-Eva Davidson (416)635-6851
They meet on the second Monday of every month starting at 7pm in the
Floral Hall at...
The Civic Garden Centre
777 Lawrence Ave East @ Leslie St.
*****************************************************************
UNITED STATES OF AMERICA
*****************************************************************
*****************************************************************
Arizona
*****************************************************************
Phoenix Bonsai Society (since 1962)
Meets first three Tuesdays @ 7:30 pm September thru May
@ Valley Garden Center, 1809 N. 15th Ave. (just north of McDowell)
First meeting is small show of trees and lecture/demonstration,
Second & third meetings are hands-on workshops.
Dues are $20/individual, $30/family.
Visitors always welcome.
*****************************************************************
California
*****************************************************************
Kusamura Bonsai Club
Meets second Friday of each month
7 pm beginner's meeting, 8 pm regular meeting
Visitors welcome
Location: First Congregational Church
85 Louis Road (at Embarcadero)
Palo Alto, CA
-------------------------
San Diego Bonsai Club, Inc.
PO Box 40037
San Diego, CA 92164
(619) 231 - 9899
Meets 2nd Sunday each month in Rm 101, Casa del Prado, Balboa Park
at 10am.
-------------------------
Bonsai Institute of California
PO Box 6268
Whittier, CA 90609 USA
*****************************************************************
Connecticut
*****************************************************************
The Bonsai Society of Greater New Haven
Generally, we meet the second Tuesday of each month at the Carriage house at Edgerton Park in New Haven, at 7:30 p.m. Each regular meeting
we have a speaker who does a demonstration and then we raffle off the
tree.
Membership dues are $20/year individual and $25/year family.
Susan Cheslock (SueQb...@AOL.COM)
Treasurer
-------------------------
China Trade Bonsai Club
25 Shaw Street
New London, CT 06320
President: Val Gallagher, Ph. (203) 444 - 6251
-------------------------
Yama Ki Bonsai Society
165 West End Avenue - 12D
New York, NY 10023-5509
President: Selma Bernstein (914)633-8338
Serving Westchester, NY and Southwestern CT
Meets 2nd or 3rd Saturday of Month at Bartlett Arboretum, Stamford CT
Celebrated 20th Anniversary December 1993
Publishes Almanac similar to FAQ with section for recording data on your
plants (3-ring binder)
Publishes Monthly Newsletter on meetings and demonstrations
Club exhibitions and critiques
Participates in NY Botanical Garden Bonsai Exhibition
Member of MidAtlantic Bonsai Clubs
*****************************************************************
Florida
*****************************************************************
Bonsai Societies of Florida (BSF) is a non-profit, state-wide, educational
organization that was created to advance the education of bonsai and to
coordinate the activities of the local members societies in Florida.
Currently there are 23 member societies as well as individuals who have
chosen to be Independent Members. Membership in BSF is open to all
individuals and clubs within Florida and the southeast US.
FLORIDA BONSAI - Four issues per year with emphasis on tropical and
semi-tropical bonsai and bonsai activities within the state.
AUDIOVISUAL LIBRARY - Slide/tape and video library of material available for
member societies to borrow.
STATE CONVENTIONS - Sponsorship of bonsai conventions held in a different
part of the state each year.
Bonsai Societies of Florida Membership Chairman may be contacted at
<tomz50...@aol.com> for further information.
Bay County Bonsai Club
PO Box 35392
Panama City FL 32412-5392
(904) 769 7862
Bonsai Society of Brevard
433 S Bluff Dr
Melbourne FL 32901
(407) 724 2812
Buttonwood Bonsai Club
3811 N Tamarisk Ave
Beverly Hills FL 34465
(904) 746 5148
Central Florida Bonsai Club
200 St Andrews #2806
Winter Park FL 32792
(407) 671 0970
Charlotte Ichiban Bonsai Kai
PO Box 8023
Port Charlotte FL 33949-8023
(813) 764 6450
Ft Walton Beach Bonsai Society
PO Box 1326
Ft Walton Beach FL 32549
(904) 651 8998
Gainesville Bonsai Society
PO Box 15383
Gainesville FL 32604-5383
<http://www.afn.org/~bonsai/>
(904) 375 1771
Gold Coast Bonsai Society
2774 E Marina Dr
Ft Lauderdale FL 33312
(305) 989 4123
Hukyu Bonsai Society
10704 Lake Carroll Way
Tampa FL 33618-4236
(813) 932 3714
Kawa Bonsai Society
PO Box 11861
Daytona Beach, FL 32120
(904) 441 7289
<tomz50...@aol.com
Laubsch Bonsai Club
2213 Sequoia Dr
Clearwater FL 34623
(813) 725 1371
Lighthouse Bonsai Society
708 Nathan Hale Rd
West Palm Beach FL 33405
(407) 588 8088
Bonsai Society of Miami
PO Box 430074
Miami FL 33243-0074
(305) 252 2162
Bonsai Society of Naples
PO 704
Bonita Springs FL 33959
(813) 992 0800
North Florida Bonsai Club
PO Box 1027
Orange Park FL 32067-1027
(904) 221 2346
Pensacola Gulf Coast Bonsai Society
PO Box 1554
Gulf Breeze FL 32561-1554
(904) 476 5005
Shofu Bonsai Society
4070 Ardmore Ln
Sarasota FL 34232
(813) 377 9918
South Palm Bonsai Society
PO Box 17381
West Palm Beach FL 33415-7381
(407) 582 4785
Southwest Florida Bonsai Society
19810 Cypresswood Ct.
N Ft Myers FL 33903
(813) 543 6242
Suncoast Bonsai Club
PO Box 10444
St Petersburg FL 33733
(813) 585 5668
Tallahassee Bonsai Society
PO Box 3652
Tallahassee FL 32315-3652
(904) 681 3101
Treasure Coast Bonsai Society
5208 Suson Ln
Ft Pierce FL 34951
(407) 466 7576
AFFILIATED CLUB:
Atlanta Bonsai Society
1412 W Peachtree St
Atlanta GA 30309
(404) 973 2615
*****************************************************************
Georgia
*****************************************************************
Atlanta Bonsai Society Inc.
P.O.Box 18653
Atlanta,Ga.30326
Ph.(404)876-5827
*****************************************************************
Illinois
*****************************************************************
Prairie State Bonsai Society
(formerly Morton Arboretum Bonsai Society)
P. O. Box 2634
Glen Ellyn, IL 60138-2634
Meets 4th Monday of the month at College of DuPage.
-------------------------
Midwest Bonsai Society
P. O. Box 1373
Highland Park, IL 60035
Meets 1st Monday of the month at the Chicago Botanical Society
Gardens
in Glencoe, IL.
*****************************************************************
Indiana
*****************************************************************
Indianapolis Bonsai Club
PO Box 20222
Indianapolis, IN 46220
The Indianapolis Bonsai Club meets on the first Wednesday of the month
at 7:00pm int he Indianapolis Museum of Art Horticultural Study Center.
For more information you can call (317)359-3227 or (317)251-9318.
"A. MICHELLE SIMMONS" <ASIM...@INDYCMS.IUPUI.EDU>
*****************************************************************
Massachussets
*****************************************************************
Northeast Bonsai Association
P.O. Box 1172
Melrose, MA 02176
Attn: Robert Downey
*****************************************************************
Michigan
*****************************************************************
The Ann Arbor Bonsai Society
Meets the 4th Wednesday of the month at 7:30pm
Matthaei Botanical Gardens
Ann Arbor, MI
Contact: John T. Lindsay (313) 878 6237
-------------------------
The Bonsai Society - Kalamazoo
Kalamazoo MI
Meets the 2nd Monday of the month (except December)
7:00pm at Kalamazoo Nature Center
7000 North Westnedge Ave
Kalamazoo, MI
Further Info contact:
Henri F. Vermeulen (616) 343-4518 (evenings) HFV...@aol.com
Alan Jacobs (616) 349-3535 jac...@wmich.edu
-------------------------
Four Seasons Bonsai Club
Meetings at 2pm on the 4th Sunday of the month at
Good Shepherd Lutheran Church
814 N. Campbell
Royal Oak, MI USA
Contact Info:
Rick Mikulak +1 313 563 4079
*****************************************************************
Minnesota
*****************************************************************
Minnesota Bonsai Society
Department CP
P.O. Box 32901
Minneapolis, MN 55432
*****************************************************************
Minnesota
*****************************************************************
Bonsai Society of Southwest Missouri
P.O. Box 6241
Springfield, Missouri 65801-6241
We meet the third Sunday of every month.
David Crighton #: (417) 831-4397
*****************************************************************
New Hampshire
*****************************************************************
American Bonsai Society
Box 358
Keene, NH 03431
Dues $ 20.00 per year, includes quarterly Journal of the American
Bonsai Society.
*****************************************************************
New Jersey
*****************************************************************
The Great Swamp Bonsai Society.
Frelinghuysen Aboretum, Morristown NJ
It meets the second Tuesday of each month at 7:30PM
<Dyed...@aol.com>
*****************************************************************
New Mexico
*****************************************************************
Albuqerque Bonsai Club
c/o Albuquerque Garden Clubs
PO Box 3065
Albuquerque, NM 87190
(505) 296-6020
Meets first Wednesday of all months but July, August, &
December at 7:00 pm
...
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