Hi my name is Joe, I have a 96 Toyota Paseo and lately its been giving me problems, the check engine light is on and shows the egr valve components. right off the bat i thought it was the egr valve so i went out and bought one and installed it on the car, it seemed like my problem was taken care of for a few days then it started acting up again, its like it has no power until about at 4000 rpms, then it suddenly gets a boost of power. If there is any advice on what i can do I sure would appreciate it. Thanks Joe
> Hi my name is Joe, I have a 96 Toyota Paseo and lately its been giving > me problems, the check engine light is on and shows the egr valve > components. right off the bat i thought it was the egr valve so i went > out and bought one and installed it on the car, it seemed like my > problem was taken care of for a few days then it started acting up > again, its like it has no power until about at 4000 rpms, then it > suddenly gets a boost of power. If there is any advice on what i can > do I sure would appreciate it. > Thanks > Joe
What was the actual trouble code? Has the check engine light come back on?
No power at low RPM or rough idle could be an indication that the EGR valve is opening or stuck open. Those symptoms could also be caused by a vacuum leak, bad vacuum switching valve, or bad EGR modulator.
Take you car to a dealership where they have the proper equipment to analyze the actual cause of your problem and the right people to correct the fault rather the throwing away money on guessing what is at fault, WBMA
> Hi my name is Joe, I have a 96 Toyota Paseo and lately its been giving > me problems, the check engine light is on and shows the egr valve > components. right off the bat i thought it was the egr valve so i went > out and bought one and installed it on the car, it seemed like my > problem was taken care of for a few days then it started acting up > again, its like it has no power until about at 4000 rpms, then it > suddenly gets a boost of power. If there is any advice on what i can > do I sure would appreciate it. > Thanks > Joe
On Fri, 17 Jul 2009 19:45:12 -0700, Joe wrote: > Hi my name is Joe, I have a 96 Toyota Paseo and lately its been giving > me problems, the check engine light is on and shows the egr valve > components. right off the bat i thought it was the egr valve so i went > out and bought one and installed it on the car, it seemed like my > problem was taken care of for a few days then it started acting up > again, its like it has no power until about at 4000 rpms, then it > suddenly gets a boost of power. If there is any advice on what i can > do I sure would appreciate it. > Thanks > Joe
WOW! I wish I had that much money!!!
I had a '95 Tercel, throwing code P420, IIRC...Low Vacuum, EGR valve. Basically, the same car as yours.
Took it to a friend with a garage and they read the code. This code could be Low vacuum Bad EGR Bad O2 sensor Bad vacuum sensor
I was working at a CarQuest so I bought an O2 sensor. The front sensor checked good, so we just replaced the downstrem sensor behind the cat. $60 down the drain. Still throwing codes.
I took it to the 'family' Toyota dealer. They charged me $45 to tell me the EGR was good (they only charged me time, it's usually $65-80 to check the EGR). Nope.
After two years, I took the hoses off and replaced them one by one. The last hose I replaced did the trick.
If I had done some better troubleshooting, it would have only cost me $15 to solve the problem.
> > Hi my name is Joe, I have a 96 Toyota Paseo and lately its been giving > > me problems, the check engine light is on and shows the egr valve > > components. right off the bat i thought it was the egr valve so i went > > out and bought one and installed it on the car, it seemed like my > > problem was taken care of for a few days then it started acting up > > again, its like it has no power until about at 4000 rpms, then it > > suddenly gets a boost of power. If there is any advice on what i can > > do I sure would appreciate it. > > Thanks > > Joe
> What was the actual trouble code? Has the check engine light come back on?
> No power at low RPM or rough idle could be an indication that the EGR valve > is opening or stuck open. Those symptoms could also be caused by a vacuum > leak, bad vacuum switching valve, or bad EGR modulator.
> --
> Ray O > (correct punctuation to reply)
It was indicating the trouble code P0401. It was showing insufficient egr flow. The check engine light is still on, and will always come back on after resetting the system. My car is also showing a 02-sensor code for upstream, and at one time it was also showing an Insufficient Coolant Temperature for Closed Loop Fuel Control. I really did not bother checking that code, because the code quickly went away. I have made a test on my modulator by plugging the P and R valve off with my fingers, and blowing into the Q port. The first time I did it I couldn’t blow any air through it what so ever. The second time I done it I was able to blow a little bit through it, then it was like it stopped up again.
> > Hi my name is Joe, I have a 96 Toyota Paseo and lately its been giving > > me problems, the check engine light is on and shows the egr valve > > components. right off the bat i thought it was the egr valve so i went > > out and bought one and installed it on the car, it seemed like my > > problem was taken care of for a few days then it started acting up > > again, its like it has no power until about at 4000 rpms, then it > > suddenly gets a boost of power. If there is any advice on what i can > > do I sure would appreciate it. > > Thanks > > Joe
> What was the actual trouble code? Has the check engine light come back on?
> No power at low RPM or rough idle could be an indication that the EGR > valve > is opening or stuck open. Those symptoms could also be caused by a vacuum > leak, bad vacuum switching valve, or bad EGR modulator.
> --
> Ray O > (correct punctuation to reply)
It was indicating the trouble code P0401. It was showing insufficient egr flow. The check engine light is still on, and will always come back on after resetting the system. My car is also showing a 02-sensor code for upstream, and at one time it was also showing an Insufficient Coolant Temperature for Closed Loop Fuel Control. I really did not bother checking that code, because the code quickly went away. I have made a test on my modulator by plugging the P and R valve off with my fingers, and blowing into the Q port. The first time I did it I couldn t blow any air through it what so ever. The second time I done it I was able to blow a little bit through it, then it was like it stopped up again.
************* Insufficient coolant temperature for closed loop fuel control is kind of a misnomer - it can be caused by an exhaust leak.
Possible causes for P0401 are: EGR valve stuck closed Open or short in VSV circuit Vacuum or EGR hose disconnected MAP sensor EGR VSV open or close malfunction ECM
To check the EGR modulator: With the modulator installed on the engine, disconnect vacuum hoses from p and r and disconnect q from the EGR valve. Plug p and r with your fingers and blow into q. Air should flow from the air filter side freely.
Start the engine, and maintain 2,500 RPM. Repeat the above test. There should be a strong resistance to air flow.
From what you described, the modulator may be bad so it would be a good idea to recheck it. --
> > > Hi my name is Joe, I have a 96 Toyota Paseo and lately its been giving > > > me problems, the check engine light is on and shows the egr valve > > > components. right off the bat i thought it was the egr valve so i went > > > out and bought one and installed it on the car, it seemed like my > > > problem was taken care of for a few days then it started acting up > > > again, its like it has no power until about at 4000 rpms, then it > > > suddenly gets a boost of power. If there is any advice on what i can > > > do I sure would appreciate it. > > > Thanks > > > Joe
> > What was the actual trouble code? Has the check engine light come back on?
> > No power at low RPM or rough idle could be an indication that the EGR > > valve > > is opening or stuck open. Those symptoms could also be caused by a vacuum > > leak, bad vacuum switching valve, or bad EGR modulator.
> > --
> > Ray O > > (correct punctuation to reply)
> It was indicating the trouble code P0401. It was showing insufficient > egr flow. The check engine light is still on, and will always come > back on after resetting the system. My car is also showing a 02-sensor > code for upstream, and at one time it was also showing an Insufficient > Coolant Temperature for Closed Loop Fuel Control. I really did not > bother checking that code, because the code quickly went away. I have > made a test on my modulator by plugging the P and R valve off with my > fingers, and blowing into the Q port. The first time I did it I > couldn’t blow any air through it what so ever. The second time I done > it I was able to blow a little bit through it, then it was like it > stopped up again.
> ************* > Insufficient coolant temperature for closed loop fuel control is kind of a > misnomer - it can be caused by an exhaust leak.
> Possible causes for P0401 are: > EGR valve stuck closed > Open or short in VSV circuit > Vacuum or EGR hose disconnected > MAP sensor > EGR VSV open or close malfunction > ECM
> To check the EGR modulator: > With the modulator installed on the engine, disconnect vacuum hoses from p > and r and disconnect q from the EGR valve. Plug p and r with your fingers > and blow into q. Air should flow from the air filter side freely.
> Start the engine, and maintain 2,500 RPM. Repeat the above test. There > should be a strong resistance to air flow.
> From what you described, the modulator may be bad so it would be a good idea > to recheck it. > --
> Ray O > (correct punctuation to reply)
I rechecked my modulator on the car; I plugged P and R with my fingers, and tried to blow into Q. The same result happened again, the first time the air would go through okay, the second time it would not go through at all. So I started the car had a buddy hold the accelerator down to 2500 rpms, and tried it again I could not get no air through at all. I took all of my vacuum lines off one at a time, and checked to see if any of them had holes, cracks, or any thing that would lose vacuum. They all were still in good condition. One more question could a 02-sensor possibly have anything to do with the problem Im having. I would just go ahead and take the car to a dealer and have them diagnose the problem, but I live about 75 miles away from the closest one. I do not want to drive the car anymore than I have to, because of the way its running. Thanks Joe
> > > Hi my name is Joe, I have a 96 Toyota Paseo and lately its been giving > > > me problems, the check engine light is on and shows the egr valve > > > components. right off the bat i thought it was the egr valve so i went > > > out and bought one and installed it on the car, it seemed like my > > > problem was taken care of for a few days then it started acting up > > > again, its like it has no power until about at 4000 rpms, then it > > > suddenly gets a boost of power. If there is any advice on what i can > > > do I sure would appreciate it. > > > Thanks > > > Joe
> > What was the actual trouble code? Has the check engine light come back > > on?
> > No power at low RPM or rough idle could be an indication that the EGR > > valve > > is opening or stuck open. Those symptoms could also be caused by a > > vacuum > > leak, bad vacuum switching valve, or bad EGR modulator.
> > --
> > Ray O > > (correct punctuation to reply)
> It was indicating the trouble code P0401. It was showing insufficient > egr flow. The check engine light is still on, and will always come > back on after resetting the system. My car is also showing a 02-sensor > code for upstream, and at one time it was also showing an Insufficient > Coolant Temperature for Closed Loop Fuel Control. I really did not > bother checking that code, because the code quickly went away. I have > made a test on my modulator by plugging the P and R valve off with my > fingers, and blowing into the Q port. The first time I did it I > couldn t blow any air through it what so ever. The second time I done > it I was able to blow a little bit through it, then it was like it > stopped up again.
> ************* > Insufficient coolant temperature for closed loop fuel control is kind of a > misnomer - it can be caused by an exhaust leak.
> Possible causes for P0401 are: > EGR valve stuck closed > Open or short in VSV circuit > Vacuum or EGR hose disconnected > MAP sensor > EGR VSV open or close malfunction > ECM
> To check the EGR modulator: > With the modulator installed on the engine, disconnect vacuum hoses from p > and r and disconnect q from the EGR valve. Plug p and r with your fingers > and blow into q. Air should flow from the air filter side freely.
> Start the engine, and maintain 2,500 RPM. Repeat the above test. There > should be a strong resistance to air flow.
> From what you described, the modulator may be bad so it would be a good > idea > to recheck it. > --
> Ray O > (correct punctuation to reply)
I rechecked my modulator on the car; I plugged P and R with my fingers, and tried to blow into Q. The same result happened again, the first time the air would go through okay, the second time it would not go through at all. So I started the car had a buddy hold the accelerator down to 2500 rpms, and tried it again I could not get no air through at all. I took all of my vacuum lines off one at a time, and checked to see if any of them had holes, cracks, or any thing that would lose vacuum. They all were still in good condition. One more question could a 02-sensor possibly have anything to do with the problem Im having. I would just go ahead and take the car to a dealer and have them diagnose the problem, but I live about 75 miles away from the closest one. I do not want to drive the car anymore than I have to, because of the way its running. Thanks Joe
******** It sounds like your modulator is bad or the filter is clogged since you are not getting consistent results with the engine off. If you remove and plug the 3 vacuum lines from the modulator, does the engine run OK? If it does
The best way to check for a vacuum leak is with a vacuum gauge. It should read over 14 in Hg at idle. The problem with a visual check for vacuum leaks is that a crack in a vacuum hose fitting is not always visible.
A bad O2 sensor by itself is not likely to cause a rough idle.
Besides an EGR valve opening at idle, other possible causes of a rough idle are a gummed up idle air control valve, vacuum leak, hole in the intake tube between the air filter housing and throttle body, dirty MAF sensor, incorrect ignition timing, incorrect valve timing, clogged air filter, bad spark plug(s) --
> > > > Hi my name is Joe, I have a 96 Toyota Paseo and lately its been giving > > > > me problems, the check engine light is on and shows the egr valve > > > > components. right off the bat i thought it was the egr valve so i went > > > > out and bought one and installed it on the car, it seemed like my > > > > problem was taken care of for a few days then it started acting up > > > > again, its like it has no power until about at 4000 rpms, then it > > > > suddenly gets a boost of power. If there is any advice on what i can > > > > do I sure would appreciate it. > > > > Thanks > > > > Joe
> > > What was the actual trouble code? Has the check engine light come back > > > on?
> > > No power at low RPM or rough idle could be an indication that the EGR > > > valve > > > is opening or stuck open. Those symptoms could also be caused by a > > > vacuum > > > leak, bad vacuum switching valve, or bad EGR modulator.
> > > --
> > > Ray O > > > (correct punctuation to reply)
> > It was indicating the trouble code P0401. It was showing insufficient > > egr flow. The check engine light is still on, and will always come > > back on after resetting the system. My car is also showing a 02-sensor > > code for upstream, and at one time it was also showing an Insufficient > > Coolant Temperature for Closed Loop Fuel Control. I really did not > > bother checking that code, because the code quickly went away. I have > > made a test on my modulator by plugging the P and R valve off with my > > fingers, and blowing into the Q port. The first time I did it I > > couldn’t blow any air through it what so ever. The second time I done > > it I was able to blow a little bit through it, then it was like it > > stopped up again.
> > ************* > > Insufficient coolant temperature for closed loop fuel control is kind of a > > misnomer - it can be caused by an exhaust leak.
> > Possible causes for P0401 are: > > EGR valve stuck closed > > Open or short in VSV circuit > > Vacuum or EGR hose disconnected > > MAP sensor > > EGR VSV open or close malfunction > > ECM
> > To check the EGR modulator: > > With the modulator installed on the engine, disconnect vacuum hoses from p > > and r and disconnect q from the EGR valve. Plug p and r with your fingers > > and blow into q. Air should flow from the air filter side freely.
> > Start the engine, and maintain 2,500 RPM. Repeat the above test. There > > should be a strong resistance to air flow.
> > From what you described, the modulator may be bad so it would be a good > > idea > > to recheck it. > > --
> > Ray O > > (correct punctuation to reply)
> I rechecked my modulator on the car; I plugged P and R with my > fingers, and tried to blow into Q. The same result happened again, the > first time the air would go through okay, the second time it would not > go through at all. So I started the car had a buddy hold the > accelerator down to 2500 rpms, and tried it again I could not get no > air through at all. I took all of my vacuum lines off one at a time, > and checked to see if any of them had holes, cracks, or any thing that > would lose vacuum. They all were still in good condition. One more > question could a 02-sensor possibly have anything to do with the > problem Im having. I would just go ahead and take the car to a dealer > and have them diagnose the problem, but I live about 75 miles away > from the closest one. I do not want to drive the car anymore than I > have to, because of the way its running. > Thanks > Joe
> ******** > It sounds like your modulator is bad or the filter is clogged since you are > not getting consistent results with the engine off. If you remove and plug > the 3 vacuum lines from the modulator, does the engine run OK? If it does
> The best way to check for a vacuum leak is with a vacuum gauge. It should > read over 14 in Hg at idle. The problem with a visual check for vacuum leaks > is that a crack in a vacuum hose fitting is not always visible.
> A bad O2 sensor by itself is not likely to cause a rough idle.
> Besides an EGR valve opening at idle, other possible causes of a rough idle > are a gummed up idle air control valve, vacuum leak, hole in the intake tube > between the air filter housing and throttle body, dirty MAF sensor, > incorrect ignition timing, incorrect valve timing, clogged air filter, bad > spark plug(s) > --
> Ray O > (correct punctuation to reply)
Thanks for all of your help. I will give these things a try out, and let you know how it goes. If you have any more advice or anything just let me know.
> > > > Hi my name is Joe, I have a 96 Toyota Paseo and lately its been > > > > giving > > > > me problems, the check engine light is on and shows the egr valve > > > > components. right off the bat i thought it was the egr valve so i > > > > went > > > > out and bought one and installed it on the car, it seemed like my > > > > problem was taken care of for a few days then it started acting up > > > > again, its like it has no power until about at 4000 rpms, then it > > > > suddenly gets a boost of power. If there is any advice on what i can > > > > do I sure would appreciate it. > > > > Thanks > > > > Joe
> > > What was the actual trouble code? Has the check engine light come back > > > on?
> > > No power at low RPM or rough idle could be an indication that the EGR > > > valve > > > is opening or stuck open. Those symptoms could also be caused by a > > > vacuum > > > leak, bad vacuum switching valve, or bad EGR modulator.
> > > --
> > > Ray O > > > (correct punctuation to reply)
> > It was indicating the trouble code P0401. It was showing insufficient > > egr flow. The check engine light is still on, and will always come > > back on after resetting the system. My car is also showing a 02-sensor > > code for upstream, and at one time it was also showing an Insufficient > > Coolant Temperature for Closed Loop Fuel Control. I really did not > > bother checking that code, because the code quickly went away. I have > > made a test on my modulator by plugging the P and R valve off with my > > fingers, and blowing into the Q port. The first time I did it I > > couldn t blow any air through it what so ever. The second time I done > > it I was able to blow a little bit through it, then it was like it > > stopped up again.
> > ************* > > Insufficient coolant temperature for closed loop fuel control is kind of > > a > > misnomer - it can be caused by an exhaust leak.
> > Possible causes for P0401 are: > > EGR valve stuck closed > > Open or short in VSV circuit > > Vacuum or EGR hose disconnected > > MAP sensor > > EGR VSV open or close malfunction > > ECM
> > To check the EGR modulator: > > With the modulator installed on the engine, disconnect vacuum hoses from > > p > > and r and disconnect q from the EGR valve. Plug p and r with your > > fingers > > and blow into q. Air should flow from the air filter side freely.
> > Start the engine, and maintain 2,500 RPM. Repeat the above test. There > > should be a strong resistance to air flow.
> > From what you described, the modulator may be bad so it would be a good > > idea > > to recheck it. > > --
> > Ray O > > (correct punctuation to reply)
> I rechecked my modulator on the car; I plugged P and R with my > fingers, and tried to blow into Q. The same result happened again, the > first time the air would go through okay, the second time it would not > go through at all. So I started the car had a buddy hold the > accelerator down to 2500 rpms, and tried it again I could not get no > air through at all. I took all of my vacuum lines off one at a time, > and checked to see if any of them had holes, cracks, or any thing that > would lose vacuum. They all were still in good condition. One more > question could a 02-sensor possibly have anything to do with the > problem Im having. I would just go ahead and take the car to a dealer > and have them diagnose the problem, but I live about 75 miles away > from the closest one. I do not want to drive the car anymore than I > have to, because of the way its running. > Thanks > Joe
> ******** > It sounds like your modulator is bad or the filter is clogged since you > are > not getting consistent results with the engine off. If you remove and plug > the 3 vacuum lines from the modulator, does the engine run OK? If it does
> The best way to check for a vacuum leak is with a vacuum gauge. It should > read over 14 in Hg at idle. The problem with a visual check for vacuum > leaks > is that a crack in a vacuum hose fitting is not always visible.
> A bad O2 sensor by itself is not likely to cause a rough idle.
> Besides an EGR valve opening at idle, other possible causes of a rough > idle > are a gummed up idle air control valve, vacuum leak, hole in the intake > tube > between the air filter housing and throttle body, dirty MAF sensor, > incorrect ignition timing, incorrect valve timing, clogged air filter, bad > spark plug(s) > --
> Ray O > (correct punctuation to reply)
Thanks for all of your help. I will give these things a try out, and let you know how it goes. If you have any more advice or anything just let me know.
> > > > Hi my name is Joe, I have a 96 Toyota Paseo and lately its been > > > > giving > > > > me problems, the check engine light is on and shows the egr valve > > > > components. right off the bat i thought it was the egr valve so i > > > > went > > > > out and bought one and installed it on the car, it seemed like my > > > > problem was taken care of for a few days then it started acting up > > > > again, its like it has no power until about at 4000 rpms, then it > > > > suddenly gets a boost of power. If there is any advice on what i can > > > > do I sure would appreciate it. > > > > Thanks > > > > Joe
> > > What was the actual trouble code? Has the check engine light come back > > > on?
> > > No power at low RPM or rough idle could be an indication that the EGR > > > valve > > > is opening or stuck open. Those symptoms could also be caused by a > > > vacuum > > > leak, bad vacuum switching valve, or bad EGR modulator.
> > > --
> > > Ray O > > > (correct punctuation to reply)
> > It was indicating the trouble code P0401. It was showing insufficient > > egr flow. The check engine light is still on, and will always come > > back on after resetting the system. My car is also showing a 02-sensor > > code for upstream, and at one time it was also showing an Insufficient > > Coolant Temperature for Closed Loop Fuel Control. I really did not > > bother checking that code, because the code quickly went away. I have > > made a test on my modulator by plugging the P and R valve off with my > > fingers, and blowing into the Q port. The first time I did it I > > couldn t blow any air through it what so ever. The second time I done > > it I was able to blow a little bit through it, then it was like it > > stopped up again.
> > ************* > > Insufficient coolant temperature for closed loop fuel control is kind of > > a > > misnomer - it can be caused by an exhaust leak.
> > Possible causes for P0401 are: > > EGR valve stuck closed > > Open or short in VSV circuit > > Vacuum or EGR hose disconnected > > MAP sensor > > EGR VSV open or close malfunction > > ECM
> > To check the EGR modulator: > > With the modulator installed on the engine, disconnect vacuum hoses from > > p > > and r and disconnect q from the EGR valve. Plug p and r with your > > fingers > > and blow into q. Air should flow from the air filter side freely.
> > Start the engine, and maintain 2,500 RPM. Repeat the above test. There > > should be a strong resistance to air flow.
> > From what you described, the modulator may be bad so it would be a good > > idea > > to recheck it. > > --
> > Ray O > > (correct punctuation to reply)
> I rechecked my modulator on the car; I plugged P and R with my > fingers, and tried to blow into Q. The same result happened again, the > first time the air would go through okay, the second time it would not > go through at all. So I started the car had a buddy hold the > accelerator down to 2500 rpms, and tried it again I could not get no > air through at all. I took all of my vacuum lines off one at a time, > and checked to see if any of them had holes, cracks, or any thing that > would lose vacuum. They all were still in good condition. One more > question could a 02-sensor possibly have anything to do with the > problem Im having. I would just go ahead and take the car to a dealer > and have them diagnose the problem, but I live about 75 miles away > from the closest one. I do not want to drive the car anymore than I > have to, because of the way its running. > Thanks > Joe
> ******** > It sounds like your modulator is bad or the filter is clogged since you > are > not getting consistent results with the engine off. If you remove and plug > the 3 vacuum lines from the modulator, does the engine run OK? If it does
> The best way to check for a vacuum leak is with a vacuum gauge. It should > read over 14 in Hg at idle. The problem with a visual check for vacuum > leaks > is that a crack in a vacuum hose fitting is not always visible.
> A bad O2 sensor by itself is not likely to cause a rough idle.
> Besides an EGR valve opening at idle, other possible causes of a rough > idle > are a gummed up idle air control valve, vacuum leak, hole in the intake > tube > between the air filter housing and throttle body, dirty MAF sensor, > incorrect ignition timing, incorrect valve timing, clogged air filter, bad > spark plug(s) > --
> Ray O > (correct punctuation to reply)
Thanks for all of your help. I will give these things a try out, and let you know how it goes. If you have any more advice or anything just let me know.
> > > > > Hi my name is Joe, I have a 96 Toyota Paseo and lately its been > > > > > giving > > > > > me problems, the check engine light is on and shows the egr valve > > > > > components. right off the bat i thought it was the egr valve so i > > > > > went > > > > > out and bought one and installed it on the car, it seemed like my > > > > > problem was taken care of for a few days then it started acting up > > > > > again, its like it has no power until about at 4000 rpms, then it > > > > > suddenly gets a boost of power. If there is any advice on what i can > > > > > do I sure would appreciate it. > > > > > Thanks > > > > > Joe
> > > > What was the actual trouble code? Has the check engine light come back > > > > on?
> > > > No power at low RPM or rough idle could be an indication that the EGR > > > > valve > > > > is opening or stuck open. Those symptoms could also be caused by a > > > > vacuum > > > > leak, bad vacuum switching valve, or bad EGR modulator.
> > > > --
> > > > Ray O > > > > (correct punctuation to reply)
> > > It was indicating the trouble code P0401. It was showing insufficient > > > egr flow. The check engine light is still on, and will always come > > > back on after resetting the system. My car is also showing a 02-sensor > > > code for upstream, and at one time it was also showing an Insufficient > > > Coolant Temperature for Closed Loop Fuel Control. I really did not > > > bother checking that code, because the code quickly went away. I have > > > made a test on my modulator by plugging the P and R valve off with my > > > fingers, and blowing into the Q port. The first time I did it I > > > couldn’t blow any air through it what so ever. The second time I done > > > it I was able to blow a little bit through it, then it was like it > > > stopped up again.
> > > ************* > > > Insufficient coolant temperature for closed loop fuel control is kind of > > > a > > > misnomer - it can be caused by an exhaust leak.
> > > Possible causes for P0401 are: > > > EGR valve stuck closed > > > Open or short in VSV circuit > > > Vacuum or EGR hose disconnected > > > MAP sensor > > > EGR VSV open or close malfunction > > > ECM
> > > To check the EGR modulator: > > > With the modulator installed on the engine, disconnect vacuum hoses from > > > p > > > and r and disconnect q from the EGR valve. Plug p and r with your > > > fingers > > > and blow into q. Air should flow from the air filter side freely.
> > > Start the engine, and maintain 2,500 RPM. Repeat the above test. There > > > should be a strong resistance to air flow.
> > > From what you described, the modulator may be bad so it would be a good > > > idea > > > to recheck it. > > > --
> > > Ray O > > > (correct punctuation to reply)
> > I rechecked my modulator on the car; I plugged P and R with my > > fingers, and tried to blow into Q. The same result happened again, the > > first time the air would go through okay, the second time it would not > > go through at all. So I started the car had a buddy hold the > > accelerator down to 2500 rpms, and tried it again I could not get no > > air through at all. I took all of my vacuum lines off one at a time, > > and checked to see if any of them had holes, cracks, or any thing that > > would lose vacuum. They all were still in good condition. One more > > question could a 02-sensor possibly have anything to do with the > > problem Im having. I would just go ahead and take the car to a dealer > > and have them diagnose the problem, but I live about 75 miles away > > from the closest one. I do not want to drive the car anymore than I > > have to, because of the way its running. > > Thanks > > Joe
> > ******** > > It sounds like your modulator is bad or the filter is clogged since you > > are > > not getting consistent results with the engine off. If you remove and plug > > the 3 vacuum lines from the modulator, does the engine run OK? If it does
> > The best way to check for a vacuum leak is with a vacuum gauge. It should > > read over 14 in Hg at idle. The problem with a visual check for vacuum > > leaks > > is that a crack in a vacuum hose fitting is not always visible.
> > A bad O2 sensor by itself is not likely to cause a rough idle.
> > Besides an EGR valve opening at idle, other possible causes of a rough > > idle > > are a gummed up idle air control valve, vacuum leak, hole in the intake > > tube > > between the air filter housing and throttle body, dirty MAF sensor, > > incorrect ignition timing, incorrect valve timing, clogged air filter, bad > > spark plug(s) > > --
> > Ray O > > (correct punctuation to reply)
> Thanks for all of your help. I will give these things a try out, and > let you know how it goes. If you have any more advice or anything just > let me know.
> >Joe
> You're welcome! Let us know what you find. > --
> Ray O > (correct punctuation to reply)
Today I went out to Advance Auto Parts and had them hook their computer up to my car. This time the only codes that were showing were a P0135 and a P0125. I needed to tell you that a while back I changed my 02 sensor, when I had it checked the first time. Instead of buying a Toyota part like I should have, I got a universal 02 sensor. I had to call AAP to get instructions on how to hook it up. Even after I hooked it up the way they told me to, it was still throwing the same code for the 02 sensor. After a while of driving the car I figured I’d call AAP back and see if they would tell me the same way again of how to hook it up. This time they told me a completely different way of how to hook it up. So on that problem I’m completely lost, and have no idea which way is right. I also rechecked the modulator today, and the air seemed to go through it just fine. Do you have any ideas now, on what my possible problem is, I mean the car is running rough at idle, and also at cruising speed. Thanks Joe
> > > > > Hi my name is Joe, I have a 96 Toyota Paseo and lately its been > > > > > giving > > > > > me problems, the check engine light is on and shows the egr valve > > > > > components. right off the bat i thought it was the egr valve so i > > > > > went > > > > > out and bought one and installed it on the car, it seemed like my > > > > > problem was taken care of for a few days then it started acting up > > > > > again, its like it has no power until about at 4000 rpms, then it > > > > > suddenly gets a boost of power. If there is any advice on what i > > > > > can > > > > > do I sure would appreciate it. > > > > > Thanks > > > > > Joe
> > > > What was the actual trouble code? Has the check engine light come > > > > back > > > > on?
> > > > No power at low RPM or rough idle could be an indication that the > > > > EGR > > > > valve > > > > is opening or stuck open. Those symptoms could also be caused by a > > > > vacuum > > > > leak, bad vacuum switching valve, or bad EGR modulator.
> > > > --
> > > > Ray O > > > > (correct punctuation to reply)
> > > It was indicating the trouble code P0401. It was showing insufficient > > > egr flow. The check engine light is still on, and will always come > > > back on after resetting the system. My car is also showing a 02-sensor > > > code for upstream, and at one time it was also showing an Insufficient > > > Coolant Temperature for Closed Loop Fuel Control. I really did not > > > bother checking that code, because the code quickly went away. I have > > > made a test on my modulator by plugging the P and R valve off with my > > > fingers, and blowing into the Q port. The first time I did it I > > > couldn�t blow any air through it what so ever. The second time I done > > > it I was able to blow a little bit through it, then it was like it > > > stopped up again.
> > > ************* > > > Insufficient coolant temperature for closed loop fuel control is kind > > > of > > > a > > > misnomer - it can be caused by an exhaust leak.
> > > Possible causes for P0401 are: > > > EGR valve stuck closed > > > Open or short in VSV circuit > > > Vacuum or EGR hose disconnected > > > MAP sensor > > > EGR VSV open or close malfunction > > > ECM
> > > To check the EGR modulator: > > > With the modulator installed on the engine, disconnect vacuum hoses > > > from > > > p > > > and r and disconnect q from the EGR valve. Plug p and r with your > > > fingers > > > and blow into q. Air should flow from the air filter side freely.
> > > Start the engine, and maintain 2,500 RPM. Repeat the above test. There > > > should be a strong resistance to air flow.
> > > From what you described, the modulator may be bad so it would be a > > > good > > > idea > > > to recheck it. > > > --
> > > Ray O > > > (correct punctuation to reply)
> > I rechecked my modulator on the car; I plugged P and R with my > > fingers, and tried to blow into Q. The same result happened again, the > > first time the air would go through okay, the second time it would not > > go through at all. So I started the car had a buddy hold the > > accelerator down to 2500 rpms, and tried it again I could not get no > > air through at all. I took all of my vacuum lines off one at a time, > > and checked to see if any of them had holes, cracks, or any thing that > > would lose vacuum. They all were still in good condition. One more > > question could a 02-sensor possibly have anything to do with the > > problem Im having. I would just go ahead and take the car to a dealer > > and have them diagnose the problem, but I live about 75 miles away > > from the closest one. I do not want to drive the car anymore than I > > have to, because of the way its running. > > Thanks > > Joe
> > ******** > > It sounds like your modulator is bad or the filter is clogged since you > > are > > not getting consistent results with the engine off. If you remove and > > plug > > the 3 vacuum lines from the modulator, does the engine run OK? If it > > does
> > The best way to check for a vacuum leak is with a vacuum gauge. It > > should > > read over 14 in Hg at idle. The problem with a visual check for vacuum > > leaks > > is that a crack in a vacuum hose fitting is not always visible.
> > A bad O2 sensor by itself is not likely to cause a rough idle.
> > Besides an EGR valve opening at idle, other possible causes of a rough > > idle > > are a gummed up idle air control valve, vacuum leak, hole in the intake > > tube > > between the air filter housing and throttle body, dirty MAF sensor, > > incorrect ignition timing, incorrect valve timing, clogged air filter, > > bad > > spark plug(s) > > --
> > Ray O > > (correct punctuation to reply)
> Thanks for all of your help. I will give these things a try out, and > let you know how it goes. If you have any more advice or anything just > let me know.
> >Joe
> You're welcome! Let us know what you find. > --
> Ray O > (correct punctuation to reply)
Today I went out to Advance Auto Parts and had them hook their computer up to my car. This time the only codes that were showing were a P0135 and a P0125. I needed to tell you that a while back I changed my 02 sensor, when I had it checked the first time. Instead of buying a Toyota part like I should have, I got a universal 02 sensor. I had to call AAP to get instructions on how to hook it up. Even after I hooked it up the way they told me to, it was still throwing the same code for the 02 sensor. After a while of driving the car I figured I�d call AAP back and see if they would tell me the same way again of how to hook it up. This time they told me a completely different way of how to hook it up. So on that problem I�m completely lost, and have no idea which way is right. I also rechecked the modulator today, and the air seemed to go through it just fine. Do you have any ideas now, on what my possible problem is, I mean the car is running rough at idle, and also at cruising speed. Thanks Joe
******** As I mentioned before, P0125 - insufficient coolant temp for closed loop operation - could be caused by an exhaust leak. I suppose that it could also be caused by the incorrect O2 sensor.
P0135 - O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1) - means what it says. If you had to splice wires on the universal O2 sensor, check your splices, preferably with an ohm meter. On a sensor with 4 wires, 2 are for the sensor heater and 2 are for the sensor signal. You will need an electrical wiring diagram to determine which wires are which.
If the car runs rough at idle and at cruising speed, check the black plastic tube between the air filter housing and throttle body for cracks, check the MAF sensor to make sure the wire isn't fouled, and try a container of Chevron Techron fuel injector cleaner.
How many miles are on the car? Have the oil changes been done pretty much on time? --
> > > > > > Hi my name is Joe, I have a 96 Toyota Paseo and lately its been > > > > > > giving > > > > > > me problems, the check engine light is on and shows the egr valve > > > > > > components. right off the bat i thought it was the egr valve so i > > > > > > went > > > > > > out and bought one and installed it on the car, it seemed like my > > > > > > problem was taken care of for a few days then it started acting up > > > > > > again, its like it has no power until about at 4000 rpms, then it > > > > > > suddenly gets a boost of power. If there is any advice on what i > > > > > > can > > > > > > do I sure would appreciate it. > > > > > > Thanks > > > > > > Joe
> > > > > What was the actual trouble code? Has the check engine light come > > > > > back > > > > > on?
> > > > > No power at low RPM or rough idle could be an indication that the > > > > > EGR > > > > > valve > > > > > is opening or stuck open. Those symptoms could also be caused by a > > > > > vacuum > > > > > leak, bad vacuum switching valve, or bad EGR modulator.
> > > > > --
> > > > > Ray O > > > > > (correct punctuation to reply)
> > > > It was indicating the trouble code P0401. It was showing insufficient > > > > egr flow. The check engine light is still on, and will always come > > > > back on after resetting the system. My car is also showing a 02-sensor > > > > code for upstream, and at one time it was also showing an Insufficient > > > > Coolant Temperature for Closed Loop Fuel Control. I really did not > > > > bother checking that code, because the code quickly went away. I have > > > > made a test on my modulator by plugging the P and R valve off with my > > > > fingers, and blowing into the Q port. The first time I did it I > > > > couldn’t blow any air through it what so ever. The second time I done > > > > it I was able to blow a little bit through it, then it was like it > > > > stopped up again.
> > > > ************* > > > > Insufficient coolant temperature for closed loop fuel control is kind > > > > of > > > > a > > > > misnomer - it can be caused by an exhaust leak.
> > > > Possible causes for P0401 are: > > > > EGR valve stuck closed > > > > Open or short in VSV circuit > > > > Vacuum or EGR hose disconnected > > > > MAP sensor > > > > EGR VSV open or close malfunction > > > > ECM
> > > > To check the EGR modulator: > > > > With the modulator installed on the engine, disconnect vacuum hoses > > > > from > > > > p > > > > and r and disconnect q from the EGR valve. Plug p and r with your > > > > fingers > > > > and blow into q. Air should flow from the air filter side freely.
> > > > Start the engine, and maintain 2,500 RPM. Repeat the above test. There > > > > should be a strong resistance to air flow.
> > > > From what you described, the modulator may be bad so it would be a > > > > good > > > > idea > > > > to recheck it. > > > > --
> > > > Ray O > > > > (correct punctuation to reply)
> > > I rechecked my modulator on the car; I plugged P and R with my > > > fingers, and tried to blow into Q. The same result happened again, the > > > first time the air would go through okay, the second time it would not > > > go through at all. So I started the car had a buddy hold the > > > accelerator down to 2500 rpms, and tried it again I could not get no > > > air through at all. I took all of my vacuum lines off one at a time, > > > and checked to see if any of them had holes, cracks, or any thing that > > > would lose vacuum. They all were still in good condition. One more > > > question could a 02-sensor possibly have anything to do with the > > > problem Im having. I would just go ahead and take the car to a dealer > > > and have them diagnose the problem, but I live about 75 miles away > > > from the closest one. I do not want to drive the car anymore than I > > > have to, because of the way its running. > > > Thanks > > > Joe
> > > ******** > > > It sounds like your modulator is bad or the filter is clogged since you > > > are > > > not getting consistent results with the engine off. If you remove and > > > plug > > > the 3 vacuum lines from the modulator, does the engine run OK? If it > > > does
> > > The best way to check for a vacuum leak is with a vacuum gauge. It > > > should > > > read over 14 in Hg at idle. The problem with a visual check for vacuum > > > leaks > > > is that a crack in a vacuum hose fitting is not always visible.
> > > A bad O2 sensor by itself is not likely to cause a rough idle.
> > > Besides an EGR valve opening at idle, other possible causes of a rough > > > idle > > > are a gummed up idle air control valve, vacuum leak, hole in the intake > > > tube > > > between the air filter housing and throttle body, dirty MAF sensor, > > > incorrect ignition timing, incorrect valve timing, clogged air filter, > > > bad > > > spark plug(s) > > > --
> > > Ray O > > > (correct punctuation to reply)
> > Thanks for all of your help. I will give these things a try out, and > > let you know how it goes. If you have any more advice or anything just > > let me know.
> > >Joe
> > You're welcome! Let us know what you find. > > --
> > Ray O > > (correct punctuation to reply)
> Today I went out to Advance Auto Parts and had them hook their > computer up to my car. This time the only codes that were showing were > a P0135 and a P0125. I needed to tell you that a while back I changed > my 02 sensor, when I had it checked the first time. Instead of buying > a Toyota part like I should have, I got a universal 02 sensor. I had > to call AAP to get instructions on how to hook it up. Even after I > hooked it up the way they told me to, it was still throwing the same > code for the 02 sensor. After a while of driving the car I figured I’d > call AAP back and see if they would tell me the same way again of how > to hook it up. This time they told me a completely different way of > how to hook it up. So on that problem I’m completely lost, and have no > idea which way is right. I also rechecked the modulator today, and the > air seemed to go through it just fine. Do you have any ideas now, on > what my possible problem is, I mean the car is running rough at idle, > and also at cruising speed. > Thanks > Joe
> ******** > As I mentioned before, P0125 - insufficient coolant temp for closed loop > operation - could be caused by an exhaust leak. I suppose that it could > also be caused by the incorrect O2 sensor.
> P0135 - O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1) - means what > it says. If you had to splice wires on the universal O2 sensor, check your > splices, preferably with an ohm meter. On a sensor with 4 wires, 2 are for > the sensor heater and 2 are for the sensor signal. You will need an > electrical wiring diagram to determine which wires are which.
> If the car runs rough at idle and at cruising speed, check the black plastic > tube between the air filter housing and throttle body for cracks, check the > MAF sensor to make sure the wire isn't fouled, and try a container of > Chevron Techron fuel injector cleaner.
> How many miles are on the car? Have the oil changes been done pretty much > on time? > --
> Ray O > (correct punctuation to reply)
I was wondering if you might know what the 02 sensor wires mean on my car. I have a black, light brown, black with a red stripe, and a white with a blue stripe. I also was going to tell you that when I drove the car today, when we came to a stop I smelled exhaust real bad. I checked the muffler system for holes, but did not find any. I’m gonna check the air filter housing and tube, and put some fuel injector cleaner in it, to see what that does for it. Thanks Joe
> > > > > > Hi my name is Joe, I have a 96 Toyota Paseo and lately its been > > > > > > giving > > > > > > me problems, the check engine light is on and shows the egr > > > > > > valve > > > > > > components. right off the bat i thought it was the egr valve so > > > > > > i > > > > > > went > > > > > > out and bought one and installed it on the car, it seemed like > > > > > > my > > > > > > problem was taken care of for a few days then it started acting > > > > > > up > > > > > > again, its like it has no power until about at 4000 rpms, then > > > > > > it > > > > > > suddenly gets a boost of power. If there is any advice on what i > > > > > > can > > > > > > do I sure would appreciate it. > > > > > > Thanks > > > > > > Joe
> > > > > What was the actual trouble code? Has the check engine light come > > > > > back > > > > > on?
> > > > > No power at low RPM or rough idle could be an indication that the > > > > > EGR > > > > > valve > > > > > is opening or stuck open. Those symptoms could also be caused by a > > > > > vacuum > > > > > leak, bad vacuum switching valve, or bad EGR modulator.
> > > > > --
> > > > > Ray O > > > > > (correct punctuation to reply)
> > > > It was indicating the trouble code P0401. It was showing > > > > insufficient > > > > egr flow. The check engine light is still on, and will always come > > > > back on after resetting the system. My car is also showing a > > > > 02-sensor > > > > code for upstream, and at one time it was also showing an > > > > Insufficient > > > > Coolant Temperature for Closed Loop Fuel Control. I really did not > > > > bother checking that code, because the code quickly went away. I > > > > have > > > > made a test on my modulator by plugging the P and R valve off with > > > > my > > > > fingers, and blowing into the Q port. The first time I did it I > > > > couldn�t blow any air through it what so ever. The second time I > > > > done > > > > it I was able to blow a little bit through it, then it was like it > > > > stopped up again.
> > > > ************* > > > > Insufficient coolant temperature for closed loop fuel control is > > > > kind > > > > of > > > > a > > > > misnomer - it can be caused by an exhaust leak.
> > > > Possible causes for P0401 are: > > > > EGR valve stuck closed > > > > Open or short in VSV circuit > > > > Vacuum or EGR hose disconnected > > > > MAP sensor > > > > EGR VSV open or close malfunction > > > > ECM
> > > > To check the EGR modulator: > > > > With the modulator installed on the engine, disconnect vacuum hoses > > > > from > > > > p > > > > and r and disconnect q from the EGR valve. Plug p and r with your > > > > fingers > > > > and blow into q. Air should flow from the air filter side freely.
> > > > Start the engine, and maintain 2,500 RPM. Repeat the above test. > > > > There > > > > should be a strong resistance to air flow.
> > > > From what you described, the modulator may be bad so it would be a > > > > good > > > > idea > > > > to recheck it. > > > > --
> > > > Ray O > > > > (correct punctuation to reply)
> > > I rechecked my modulator on the car; I plugged P and R with my > > > fingers, and tried to blow into Q. The same result happened again, the > > > first time the air would go through okay, the second time it would not > > > go through at all. So I started the car had a buddy hold the > > > accelerator down to 2500 rpms, and tried it again I could not get no > > > air through at all. I took all of my vacuum lines off one at a time, > > > and checked to see if any of them had holes, cracks, or any thing that > > > would lose vacuum. They all were still in good condition. One more > > > question could a 02-sensor possibly have anything to do with the > > > problem Im having. I would just go ahead and take the car to a dealer > > > and have them diagnose the problem, but I live about 75 miles away > > > from the closest one. I do not want to drive the car anymore than I > > > have to, because of the way its running. > > > Thanks > > > Joe
> > > ******** > > > It sounds like your modulator is bad or the filter is clogged since > > > you > > > are > > > not getting consistent results with the engine off. If you remove and > > > plug > > > the 3 vacuum lines from the modulator, does the engine run OK? If it > > > does
> > > The best way to check for a vacuum leak is with a vacuum gauge. It > > > should > > > read over 14 in Hg at idle. The problem with a visual check for vacuum > > > leaks > > > is that a crack in a vacuum hose fitting is not always visible.
> > > A bad O2 sensor by itself is not likely to cause a rough idle.
> > > Besides an EGR valve opening at idle, other possible causes of a rough > > > idle > > > are a gummed up idle air control valve, vacuum leak, hole in the > > > intake > > > tube > > > between the air filter housing and throttle body, dirty MAF sensor, > > > incorrect ignition timing, incorrect valve timing, clogged air filter, > > > bad > > > spark plug(s) > > > --
> > > Ray O > > > (correct punctuation to reply)
> > Thanks for all of your help. I will give these things a try out, and > > let you know how it goes. If you have any more advice or anything just > > let me know.
> > >Joe
> > You're welcome! Let us know what you find. > > --
> > Ray O > > (correct punctuation to reply)
> Today I went out to Advance Auto Parts and had them hook their > computer up to my car. This time the only codes that were showing were > a P0135 and a P0125. I needed to tell you that a while back I changed > my 02 sensor, when I had it checked the first time. Instead of buying > a Toyota part like I should have, I got a universal 02 sensor. I had > to call AAP to get instructions on how to hook it up. Even after I > hooked it up the way they told me to, it was still throwing the same > code for the 02 sensor. After a while of driving the car I figured I�d > call AAP back and see if they would tell me the same way again of how > to hook it up. This time they told me a completely different way of > how to hook it up. So on that problem I�m completely lost, and have no > idea which way is right. I also rechecked the modulator today, and the > air seemed to go through it just fine. Do you have any ideas now, on > what my possible problem is, I mean the car is running rough at idle, > and also at cruising speed. > Thanks > Joe
> ******** > As I mentioned before, P0125 - insufficient coolant temp for closed loop > operation - could be caused by an exhaust leak. I suppose that it could > also be caused by the incorrect O2 sensor.
> P0135 - O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1) - means > what > it says. If you had to splice wires on the universal O2 sensor, check your > splices, preferably with an ohm meter. On a sensor with 4 wires, 2 are for > the sensor heater and 2 are for the sensor signal. You will need an > electrical wiring diagram to determine which wires are which.
> If the car runs rough at idle and at cruising speed, check the black > plastic > tube between the air filter housing and throttle body for cracks, check > the > MAF sensor to make sure the wire isn't fouled, and try a container of > Chevron Techron fuel injector cleaner.
> How many miles are on the car? Have the oil changes been done pretty much > on time? > --
> Ray O > (correct punctuation to reply)
I was wondering if you might know what the 02 sensor wires mean on my car. I have a black, light brown, black with a red stripe, and a white with a blue stripe. I also was going to tell you that when I drove the car today, when we came to a stop I smelled exhaust real bad. I checked the muffler system for holes, but did not find any. I�m gonna check the air filter housing and tube, and put some fuel injector cleaner in it, to see what that does for it. Thanks Joe
********** Unfortunately, I do not have a wiring diagram for your car so I can't help you with the sensor wire colors. One of the wires should have continuity with ground and the other three are connected to the ECU. I only use OEM sensors so I do not have any experience with aftermarket ones.
The exhaust leak is probably the cause of the P0125. If you have trouble finding the leak, have someone try to plug the tailpipe with the engine idling - the exhaust noise from the leak should get louder. --
> > > > Hi my name is Joe, I have a 96 Toyota Paseo and lately its been giving > > > > me problems, the check engine light is on and shows the egr valve > > > > components. right off the bat i thought it was the egr valve so i went > > > > out and bought one and installed it on the car, it seemed like my > > > > problem was taken care of for a few days then it started acting up > > > > again, its like it has no power until about at 4000 rpms, then it > > > > suddenly gets a boost of power. If there is any advice on what i can > > > > do I sure would appreciate it. > > > > Thanks > > > > Joe
> > > What was the actual trouble code? Has the check engine light come back > > > on?
> > > No power at low RPM or rough idle could be an indication that the EGR > > > valve > > > is opening or stuck open. Those symptoms could also be caused by a > > > vacuum > > > leak, bad vacuum switching valve, or bad EGR modulator.
> > > --
> > > Ray O > > > (correct punctuation to reply)
> > It was indicating the trouble code P0401. It was showing insufficient > > egr flow. The check engine light is still on, and will always come > > back on after resetting the system. My car is also showing a 02-sensor > > code for upstream, and at one time it was also showing an Insufficient > > Coolant Temperature for Closed Loop Fuel Control. I really did not > > bother checking that code, because the code quickly went away. I have > > made a test on my modulator by plugging the P and R valve off with my > > fingers, and blowing into the Q port. The first time I did it I > > couldn’t blow any air through it what so ever. The second time I done > > it I was able to blow a little bit through it, then it was like it > > stopped up again.
> > ************* > > Insufficient coolant temperature for closed loop fuel control is kind of a > > misnomer - it can be caused by an exhaust leak.
> > Possible causes for P0401 are: > > EGR valve stuck closed > > Open or short in VSV circuit > > Vacuum or EGR hose disconnected > > MAP sensor > > EGR VSV open or close malfunction > > ECM
> > To check the EGR modulator: > > With the modulator installed on the engine, disconnect vacuum hoses from p > > and r and disconnect q from the EGR valve. Plug p and r with your fingers > > and blow into q. Air should flow from the air filter side freely.
> > Start the engine, and maintain 2,500 RPM. Repeat the above test. There > > should be a strong resistance to air flow.
> > From what you described, the modulator may be bad so it would be a good > > idea > > to recheck it. > > --
> > Ray O > > (correct punctuation to reply)
> I rechecked my modulator on the car; I plugged P and R with my > fingers, and tried to blow into Q. The same result happened again, the > first time the air would go through okay, the second time it would not > go through at all. So I started the car had a buddy hold the > accelerator down to 2500 rpms, and tried it again I could not get no > air through at all. I took all of my vacuum lines off one at a time, > and checked to see if any of them had holes, cracks, or any thing that > would lose vacuum. They all were still in good condition. One more > question could a 02-sensor possibly have anything to do with the > problem Im having. I would just go ahead and take the car to a dealer > and have them diagnose the problem, but I live about 75 miles away > from the closest one. I do not want to drive the car anymore than I > have to, because of the way its running. > Thanks > Joe
> ******** > It sounds like your modulator is bad or the filter is clogged since you are > not getting consistent results with the engine off. If you remove and plug > the 3 vacuum lines from the modulator, does the engine run OK? If it does
> The best way to check for a vacuum leak is with a vacuum gauge. It should > read over 14 in Hg at idle. The problem with a visual check for vacuum leaks > is that a crack in a vacuum hose fitting is not always visible.
> A bad O2 sensor by itself is not likely to cause a rough idle.
> Besides an EGR valve opening at idle, other possible causes of a rough idle > are a gummed up idle air control valve, vacuum leak, hole in the intake tube > between the air filter housing and throttle body, dirty MAF sensor, > incorrect ignition timing, incorrect valve timing, clogged air filter, bad > spark plug(s) > --
> Ray O > (correct punctuation to reply)
You can add cracked fuel injector to your list too.
> > > > > Hi my name is Joe, I have a 96 Toyota Paseo and lately its been giving > > > > > me problems, the check engine light is on and shows the egr valve > > > > > components. right off the bat i thought it was the egr valve so i went > > > > > out and bought one and installed it on the car, it seemed like my > > > > > problem was taken care of for a few days then it started acting up > > > > > again, its like it has no power until about at 4000 rpms, then it > > > > > suddenly gets a boost of power. If there is any advice on what i can > > > > > do I sure would appreciate it. > > > > > Thanks > > > > > Joe
> > > > What was the actual trouble code? Has the check engine light come back > > > > on?
> > > > No power at low RPM or rough idle could be an indication that the EGR > > > > valve > > > > is opening or stuck open. Those symptoms could also be caused by a > > > > vacuum > > > > leak, bad vacuum switching valve, or bad EGR modulator.
> > > > --
> > > > Ray O > > > > (correct punctuation to reply)
> > > It was indicating the trouble code P0401. It was showing insufficient > > > egr flow. The check engine light is still on, and will always come > > > back on after resetting the system. My car is also showing a 02-sensor > > > code for upstream, and at one time it was also showing an Insufficient > > > Coolant Temperature for Closed Loop Fuel Control. I really did not > > > bother checking that code, because the code quickly went away. I have > > > made a test on my modulator by plugging the P and R valve off with my > > > fingers, and blowing into the Q port. The first time I did it I > > > couldn’t blow any air through it what so ever. The second time I done > > > it I was able to blow a little bit through it, then it was like it > > > stopped up again.
> > > ************* > > > Insufficient coolant temperature for closed loop fuel control is kind of a > > > misnomer - it can be caused by an exhaust leak.
> > > Possible causes for P0401 are: > > > EGR valve stuck closed > > > Open or short in VSV circuit > > > Vacuum or EGR hose disconnected > > > MAP sensor > > > EGR VSV open or close malfunction > > > ECM
> > > To check the EGR modulator: > > > With the modulator installed on the engine, disconnect vacuum hoses from p > > > and r and disconnect q from the EGR valve. Plug p and r with your fingers > > > and blow into q. Air should flow from the air filter side freely.
> > > Start the engine, and maintain 2,500 RPM. Repeat the above test. There > > > should be a strong resistance to air flow.
> > > From what you described, the modulator may be bad so it would be a good > > > idea > > > to recheck it. > > > --
> > > Ray O > > > (correct punctuation to reply)
> > I rechecked my modulator on the car; I plugged P and R with my > > fingers, and tried to blow into Q. The same result happened again, the > > first time the air would go through okay, the second time it would not > > go through at all. So I started the car had a buddy hold the > > accelerator down to 2500 rpms, and tried it again I could not get no > > air through at all. I took all of my vacuum lines off one at a time, > > and checked to see if any of them had holes, cracks, or any thing that > > would lose vacuum. They all were still in good condition. One more > > question could a 02-sensor possibly have anything to do with the > > problem Im having. I would just go ahead and take the car to a dealer > > and have them diagnose the problem, but I live about 75 miles away > > from the closest one. I do not want to drive the car anymore than I > > have to, because of the way its running. > > Thanks > > Joe
> > ******** > > It sounds like your modulator is bad or the filter is clogged since you are > > not getting consistent results with the engine off. If you remove and plug > > the 3 vacuum lines from the modulator, does the engine run OK? If it does
> > The best way to check for a vacuum leak is with a vacuum gauge. It should > > read over 14 in Hg at idle. The problem with a visual check for vacuum leaks > > is that a crack in a vacuum hose fitting is not always visible.
> > A bad O2 sensor by itself is not likely to cause a rough idle.
> > Besides an EGR valve opening at idle, other possible causes of a rough idle > > are a gummed up idle air control valve, vacuum leak, hole in the intake tube > > between the air filter housing and throttle body, dirty MAF sensor, > > incorrect ignition timing, incorrect valve timing, clogged air filter, bad > > spark plug(s) > > --
> > Ray O > > (correct punctuation to reply)
> You can add cracked fuel injector to your list too.
If I had a cracked fuel injector would that make the car run rough at idle, and also at cruising speed. What kind of sound would it make? Would a fuel filter also have anything to do with my problem. Joe
> You can add cracked fuel injector to your list too.
If I had a cracked fuel injector would that make the car run rough at idle, and also at cruising speed. What kind of sound would it make? Would a fuel filter also have anything to do with my problem. Joe
******** A cracked fuel injector doesn't make a sound that is different from normal. Cracked injectors are pretty rare but can be caused by over-use of fuel injector cleaners and aftermarket fuel additives. If you have not been adding anything to the fuel tank, a cracked injector is pretty low on the list.
A fuel filter is also unlikely to have anything to do with your problem unless you buy really cheap fuel from stations that do not sell a large volume of fuel.
How many miles are on the car, and what is the recent maintenance history? When is the last time the spark plugs and ignition wires were replaced? If they were replaced, what brand was used? --
> > You can add cracked fuel injector to your list too.
> If I had a cracked fuel injector would that make the car run rough at > idle, and also at cruising speed. What kind of sound would it make? > Would a fuel filter also have anything to do with my problem. > Joe
> ******** > A cracked fuel injector doesn't make a sound that is different from normal. > Cracked injectors are pretty rare but can be caused by over-use of fuel > injector cleaners and aftermarket fuel additives. If you have not been > adding anything to the fuel tank, a cracked injector is pretty low on the > list.
> A fuel filter is also unlikely to have anything to do with your problem > unless you buy really cheap fuel from stations that do not sell a large > volume of fuel.
> How many miles are on the car, and what is the recent maintenance history? > When is the last time the spark plugs and ignition wires were replaced? If > they were replaced, what brand was used? > --
> Ray O > (correct punctuation to reply)
The car has about 155,000 miles on it, ever since I got the car I keep my oil changed every 3000 miles. The spark plugs were replaced about 10 months ago, but I did not change any wires to them. I used Bosch double tip platinum, the under the hood diagram said that only double tip plugs should be used.
> > You can add cracked fuel injector to your list too.
> If I had a cracked fuel injector would that make the car run rough at > idle, and also at cruising speed. What kind of sound would it make? > Would a fuel filter also have anything to do with my problem. > Joe
> ******** > A cracked fuel injector doesn't make a sound that is different from > normal. > Cracked injectors are pretty rare but can be caused by over-use of fuel > injector cleaners and aftermarket fuel additives. If you have not been > adding anything to the fuel tank, a cracked injector is pretty low on the > list.
> A fuel filter is also unlikely to have anything to do with your problem > unless you buy really cheap fuel from stations that do not sell a large > volume of fuel.
> How many miles are on the car, and what is the recent maintenance history? > When is the last time the spark plugs and ignition wires were replaced? If > they were replaced, what brand was used? > --
> Ray O > (correct punctuation to reply)
The car has about 155,000 miles on it, ever since I got the car I keep my oil changed every 3000 miles. The spark plugs were replaced about 10 months ago, but I did not change any wires to them. I used Bosch double tip platinum, the under the hood diagram said that only double tip plugs should be used.
Joe
*********** check the resistance on the spark plug wires. If the car has a distributor, check the condition of the cap and rotor. --
> > > You can add cracked fuel injector to your list too.
> > If I had a cracked fuel injector would that make the car run rough at > > idle, and also at cruising speed. What kind of sound would it make? > > Would a fuel filter also have anything to do with my problem. > > Joe
> > ******** > > A cracked fuel injector doesn't make a sound that is different from > > normal. > > Cracked injectors are pretty rare but can be caused by over-use of fuel > > injector cleaners and aftermarket fuel additives. If you have not been > > adding anything to the fuel tank, a cracked injector is pretty low on the > > list.
> > A fuel filter is also unlikely to have anything to do with your problem > > unless you buy really cheap fuel from stations that do not sell a large > > volume of fuel.
> > How many miles are on the car, and what is the recent maintenance history? > > When is the last time the spark plugs and ignition wires were replaced? If > > they were replaced, what brand was used? > > --
> > Ray O > > (correct punctuation to reply)
> The car has about 155,000 miles on it, ever since I got the car I > keep my oil changed every 3000 miles. The spark plugs were replaced > about 10 months ago, but I did not change any wires to them. I used > Bosch double tip platinum, the under the hood diagram said that only > double tip plugs should be used.
> Joe
> *********** > check the resistance on the spark plug wires. If the car has a distributor, > check the condition of the cap and rotor. > --
> Ray O > (correct punctuation to reply)
I never have really checked any kind of resistance on spark plug wires. How do I go about doing this?
If you're getting the Insufficient Coolant Temperature code then your car's ECU is NOT going into closed loop operation. During this period you'll likely have increased emissions that's damaging the oxygen sensors and catalytic converter. And if the mixture is running too rich, you can have a lot of carbon plugging things up too (maybe like EGR valve, throttle body ports, etc).
3. If you have more than 100K miles on the sensors, consider replacing them. Since sensors can be damaged by an out-of-tune engine, it helps to make sure the engine is properly maintained.
4. Then go through the EGR system and clean out all the pipes and ports. And then go through the standard diagnostics procedure before buy any more new parts. I think you'll need a good throttle body cleaning as well from your description of plugged ports.
On Jul 18, 11:33 am, Joe <steelhors...@hotmail.com> wrote:
> It was indicating the trouble code P0401. It was showing insufficient > egr flow. The check engine light is still on, and will always come > back on after resetting the system. My car is also showing a 02-sensor > code for upstream, and at one time it was also showing an Insufficient > Coolant Temperature for Closed Loop Fuel Control. I really did not > bother checking that code, because the code quickly went away. I have > made a test on my modulator by plugging the P and R valve off with my > fingers, and blowing into the Q port. The first time I did it I > couldn’t blow any air through it what so ever. The second time I done > it I was able to blow a little bit through it, then it was like it > stopped up again.
> > > You can add cracked fuel injector to your list too.
> > If I had a cracked fuel injector would that make the car run rough at > > idle, and also at cruising speed. What kind of sound would it make? > > Would a fuel filter also have anything to do with my problem. > > Joe
> > ******** > > A cracked fuel injector doesn't make a sound that is different from > > normal. > > Cracked injectors are pretty rare but can be caused by over-use of fuel > > injector cleaners and aftermarket fuel additives. If you have not been > > adding anything to the fuel tank, a cracked injector is pretty low on > > the > > list.
> > A fuel filter is also unlikely to have anything to do with your problem > > unless you buy really cheap fuel from stations that do not sell a large > > volume of fuel.
> > How many miles are on the car, and what is the recent maintenance > > history? > > When is the last time the spark plugs and ignition wires were replaced? > > If > > they were replaced, what brand was used? > > --
> > Ray O > > (correct punctuation to reply)
> The car has about 155,000 miles on it, ever since I got the car I > keep my oil changed every 3000 miles. The spark plugs were replaced > about 10 months ago, but I did not change any wires to them. I used > Bosch double tip platinum, the under the hood diagram said that only > double tip plugs should be used.
> Joe
> *********** > check the resistance on the spark plug wires. If the car has a > distributor, > check the condition of the cap and rotor. > --
> Ray O > (correct punctuation to reply)
I never have really checked any kind of resistance on spark plug wires. How do I go about doing this?
Joe
************** Disconnect the spark plug wires one at a time from the spark plug and distributor cap or coil for distributor-less ignition systems and with an ohm meter, touch the meter's probes to the ends of the spark plug wires (it doesn't matter which probe lead connects to which end of the wire). With the ohm meter's range set to K ohms (kilo ohms), the wire's resistance should be less than 25 K ohms (25,000 ohms). If resistance is greater than 25 K ohms, the wire is bad. Do this for all 4 spark plug wires. If the wires need replacement, try to use Denso wires. --
news:5e503886-0b50-451c-bbf3-533f29b0c04b@y10g2000prf.googlegroups.com... If you're getting the Insufficient Coolant Temperature code then your car's ECU is NOT going into closed loop operation. During this period you'll likely have increased emissions that's damaging the oxygen sensors and catalytic converter. And if the mixture is running too rich, you can have a lot of carbon plugging things up too (maybe like EGR valve, throttle body ports, etc).
********** I like Autozone's repair guides but unfortunately, the OP's Paseo is not one with an available repair guide, and neither is the same model year Tercel.
********** The engine coolant temp sensor does not affect P0125. The ECU detects P0125 by lookinng at O2 sensor voltage that is out of range, either from an open or short in the sensor circuit, or an exhaust leak that is introducing air to the exhaust stream, making the system think that it is running too lean. Since the OP mentioned an exhaust smell in the car, I think the OP should check for an exhaust leak.
**********
3. If you have more than 100K miles on the sensors, consider replacing them. Since sensors can be damaged by an out-of-tune engine, it helps to make sure the engine is properly maintained.
********* The OP replaced a sensor with an aftermarket one and now has a problem with that sensor.
> news:5e503886-0b50-451c-bbf3-533f29b0c04b@y10g2000prf.googlegroups.com... > If you're getting the Insufficient Coolant Temperature code then your > car's ECU is NOT going into closed loop operation. During this period > you'll likely have increased emissions that's damaging the oxygen > sensors and catalytic converter. And if the mixture is running too > rich, you can have a lot of carbon plugging things up too (maybe like > EGR valve, throttle body ports, etc).
> ********** > I like Autozone's repair guides but unfortunately, the OP's Paseo is not one > with an available repair guide, and neither is the same model year Tercel.
> ********** > The engine coolant temp sensor does not affect P0125. The ECU detects P0125 > by lookinng at O2 sensor voltage that is out of range, either from an open > or short in the sensor circuit, or an exhaust leak that is introducing air > to the exhaust stream, making the system think that it is running too lean. > Since the OP mentioned an exhaust smell in the car, I think the OP should > check for an exhaust leak.
> **********
> 3. If you have more than 100K miles on the sensors, consider replacing > them. Since sensors can be damaged by an out-of-tune engine, it helps > to make sure the engine is properly maintained.
> ********* > The OP replaced a sensor with an aftermarket one and now has a problem with > that sensor.
> ********* > --
> Ray O > (correct punctuation to reply)
I noticed yesterday that my valve pan cover bolts were loose, would this have anything to do with my air flow. Since the pcv valve runs from valve cover to the intake. Every time I would blow into the port air would just seep out of the bolt holes from where they was not tight. Joe
