Engine Cleaning
Built_Well
Hi, I have a question about engine cleaning.
A beginner's book called "Auto Upkeep" says to clean the engine like
this:
"Open the hood. Wet a shop rag with a multipurpose cleaner and wipe
grime, dirt, and dust from the engine compartment. Close the hood."
What kind of multipurpose cleaner would work--Ammonia-based spray?
Also, do I have to worry about accidentally cleaning off
intentionally
lubricated surfaces inside the engine compartment?
Marty
> Hi, I have a question about engine cleaning.
>
> A beginner's book called "Auto Upkeep" says to clean the engine like
> this:
>
> "Open the hood. Wet a shop rag with a multipurpose cleaner and wipe
> grime, dirt, and dust from the engine compartment. Close the hood."
That is only good advice if your engine and engine bay is already pretty
clean. If you have some oil leaks and operate in a dusty environment then
your engine bay might be filthy.
> What kind of multipurpose cleaner would work--Ammonia-based spray?
Kerosene cleans really good. Wash it off with detergent water. Really
tough stuff can be attacked with steam cleaner, high pressure sheep urine
etc.
> Also, do I have to worry about accidentally cleaning off intentionally
> lubricated surfaces inside the engine compartment?
Not unless you deliberately fill the sump with detergent.
Hachiroku ハチロク
What car are we dealing with here?
We used something similar to Simple Green, we would spray the engine with
it and let it sit for about 5 minutes and then rinse it off with a high
pressure hose, but a garden hose works just as well. On newer cars this
works quite well. When I did it to my Supra at closing time, the Service
Manager was quite angry with me because the car wouldn't start because
everything was wet and we couldn't get the car out of the wash bay. On
older cars it is best to leave the engine running, but take care not to
get water into any air intakes.
mack
"Built_Well" <Built_We...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:ce3f4006-e31a-4b71...@r66g2000hsg.googlegroups.com...
>
> Hi, I have a question about engine cleaning.
>
> A beginner's book called "Auto Upkeep" says to clean the engine like
> this:
>
> "Open the hood.
wow, that must indeed be a book for beginners.
It's like instructions for taking a bath saying
"First remove your clothing, shoes and socks, and your wristwatch. If
you're going to shampoo your hair, remove your hat."
Duh!
Seriously, the only thing to worry about is getting the rinse water on or
near electrical parts, so covering those parts with saran wrap is a worthy
idea. Don't soak the engine with a full-force garden hose or you likely
won't get the engine started when you're finished.
W. Stief
Do not use cleaners or solvents on ANY decals or stickers, dry rag only.
Steve B.
>
> A beginner's book called "Auto Upkeep" says to clean the engine like
> this:
>
> "Open the hood. Wet a shop rag with a multipurpose cleaner and wipe
> grime, dirt, and dust from the engine compartment. Close the hood."
>
> What kind of multipurpose cleaner would work--Ammonia-based spray?
>
> Also, do I have to worry about accidentally cleaning off
> intentionally
> lubricated surfaces inside the engine compartment?
Honestly? Just leave it alone...
When you start cleaning an engine you knock things loose accidentally,
water gets places it can't normally get.. brittle plastic parts get
snapped off. I've never seen a car cease to run because the engine
wasn't cleaned. I've seen tons of cars that don't run anymore after
the engine is cleaned.
If you really want to have it done have a professional steam clean the
engine.
Steve B.
Hachiroku ハチロク
>
> Honestly? Just leave it alone...
>
> When you start cleaning an engine you knock things loose accidentally,
> water gets places it can't normally get.. brittle plastic parts get
> snapped off. I've never seen a car cease to run because the engine
> wasn't cleaned. I've seen tons of cars that don't run anymore after
> the engine is cleaned.
>
> If you really want to have it done have a professional steam clean the
> engine.
>
> Steve B.
I cleaned hundreds of cars with a grease cutter like Simple Green.
Unfortunately, the only one that wouldn't run afterwards was my Supra...
Brent P
> When you start cleaning an engine you knock things loose accidentally,
> water gets places it can't normally get.. brittle plastic parts get
> snapped off.
Not if you show just a little bit of care.
> I've never seen a car cease to run because the engine wasn't cleaned.
But a clean engine compartment and engine is so much nicer to work with.
> I've seen tons of cars that don't run anymore after the engine is
> cleaned.
A little bit of care prevents that. And the condition should only be
temporary and self-correcting unless they were VERY stupid.
Steve B.
wrote:
>
>I cleaned hundreds of cars with a grease cutter like Simple Green.
>
>Unfortunately, the only one that wouldn't run afterwards was my Supra...
>
That sucks that the Supra wouldn't start! The one I see most often
is the mid 90s Lincolns that grampaw washes. Water gets in those deep
spark plug wells and the car runs like crap. Being around used cars /
trade time I see a lot of "first time washers" and the destruction
they inflict.
Steve B.
ron
"do-it-yourself" carwash I LIGHTLY spray under hood with the soap spray,
ease hood down and wash car - then when I rinse, I rinse under the hood
again fairly lightly - but then I do it several times a year so don't need
the pressure. Need I say Toyotas stay fairly clean w/o oil leaks?
Ron in Ca
"Built_Well" <Built_We...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:ce3f4006-e31a-4b71...@r66g2000hsg.googlegroups.com...
>
HLS
"Steve B." <no...@none.com> wrote in message
> Honestly? Just leave it alone...
>
> When you start cleaning an engine you knock things loose accidentally,
> water gets places it can't normally get.. brittle plastic parts get
> snapped off. I've never seen a car cease to run because the engine
> wasn't cleaned. I've seen tons of cars that don't run anymore after
> the engine is cleaned.
>
> If you really want to have it done have a professional steam clean the
> engine.
>
> Steve B.
Double ditto this post.. If he doesnt know how to do it, he shouldnt.
You CAN cause a lot of problems with injudicious engine washing.
Leave this until a little later in the development of your automotive
hobbying.
Hachiroku ハチロク
> What I do, and have done for a long time, is when I take the rig to a
> "do-it-yourself" carwash I LIGHTLY spray under hood with the soap spray,
> ease hood down and wash car - then when I rinse, I rinse under the hood
> again fairly lightly - but then I do it several times a year so don't need
> the pressure. Need I say Toyotas stay fairly clean w/o oil leaks?
I WISH!!!! My last three have leaked like sieves!
One of them had the oil pan bolts working loose and the entire underside
of the car was oil undercoated.
Ray O
"Built_Well" <Built_We...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:ce3f4006-e31a-4b71...@r66g2000hsg.googlegroups.com...
>
Get some Simple Green - I bought a gallon about a decade ago and still have
plenty left. Simple Green works on grease and just about anything you spill
in the interior, it works as a household cleaner, and driveway degreaser.
Of, you can try stuff like Gunk Engine Brite.
Spray the cleaner on the engine, avoiding the coils, spark plugs, electrical
connectors, engine air intake, and throttle body. Let the stuff sit for 5 ~
10 minutes, rinse off with a gentle spray. A full power shot from a hose or
pressure washer can knock stuff loose or force water into the intake (very
bad - you can end up needing a new engine).
--
Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)
Scott Dorsey
>
>One of them had the oil pan bolts working loose and the entire underside
>of the car was oil undercoated.
Good thing. Prevents body rust.
--scott
--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."
Built_Well
Thanks for all your suggestions.
I guess when I clean underneath the front hood, I'll just do it
the careful, tedious way, with a shop towel passed over individual
surfaces, one at a time, like Auto Upkeep recommends.
It sure will take a lot longer, but for a beginner like me, it's
probably safer.
On the other hand, in the '06 Camry, the engine's spark plugs are
protected by a large plastic engine cover, and I guess I could
cover the air filter housing's air intake with something, and
cover the alternator and MAF sensor, but I think I'll just follow
the book and use a dampened shop towel.
Hal
> grime, dirt, and dust from the engine compartment. Close the hood."
>
> What kind of multipurpose cleaner would work--Ammonia-based spray?
>
> Also, do I have to worry about accidentally cleaning off
> intentionally
> lubricated surfaces inside the engine compartment?
I've always used the gunk "Engine Brite" spray. Start with a cold
engine, idle for 2-3 minutes to warm it up just a bit. Then let loose
with the entire can of gunk and have a toothbrush handy. Go around the
entire engine compartment and use the toothbrush on any dirt you see,
hit the firewall, strut towers, manifold shields, hoses, clamps, etc.
The solvent will keep the dirt loosened up once you touch it. Once
you've hit everything use a garden hose to rinse it all out. Whala,
perfectly clean engine compartment.
Now you do need to be careful if your engine has the plugs down inside
a 'well', because water will invariably get down in there and keep you
from driving until you get it all out. I use compressed air to dry
this area off, but if you don't have that option you need to mask that
area of the engine off with a block of some sort(plastic bag and
tape?) to keep water away from there. Another area to avoid getting
intentionally wet is the distributor, cap and wires. Or if you don't
have a distributor, keep the coil packs and wires dry.
Chris
HLS
When I do this, I am careful to plug the air inlets, cover the alternator,
distributor,
etc (as it may apply to the vehicle) with plastic bags and tie them snugly.
Gunk, Dawn, etc will usually work fine. Kerosene, as mentioned before is
great
for dissolving oil without hurting most paint. Easily flushed away with
soap and water.
When you get through, take away ALL the bags and rag stuffing, wipe off the
visible
water. You can use WD-40 on plugs, wires, etc if you wish.It is a darn good
water dispersant.
Start the engine immediately. Let it run until hot enough to evaporate the
water.
You may want to (need to) lubricate hood hinges, pins, linkages, etc when
you are
finished. Removal of grease or oil by the bath may make this wise.
Retired VIP
Does your girl friend/wife/significant other get turned on by a clean
engine? I don't understand why you want to clean your engine, it
won't make the car run better. It won't help the engine to run cooler
or the A/C to work better. Well, maybe the A/C might work better if
the condenser is plugged up with bugs and stuff.
Keep the outside clean and the hood closed.
Jack
Brent P
>> On the other hand, in the '06 Camry, the engine's spark plugs are
> When I do this, I am careful to plug the air inlets,
Don't most modern cars have their air inlets inside one of the fenders
these days? I can't recall the last time I saw a car that didn't.
Brent P
> Does your girl friend/wife/significant other get turned on by a clean
> engine? I don't understand why you want to clean your engine, it
> won't make the car run better. It won't help the engine to run cooler
> or the A/C to work better. Well, maybe the A/C might work better if
> the condenser is plugged up with bugs and stuff.
> Keep the outside clean and the hood closed.
Do you ever do any of your own work on a car? It's a lot easier when you
keep things underneath and under the hood clean or at least somewhat
clean. Tracing a leak is a lot easier when things are kept clean. And as
far as the engine working better, when clean it is working as it was
designed. Accelerated life testing may not get the engine and other
parts coated in the sorts of grime they do over a period of years of
real operation. Grime can do harm in a number of ways. Sure it may
something that isn't measurable and can't be pulled out of the noise of
random and old-age part failures, but other than some rare exceptions
its not doing any good being there.
HLS
"Brent P" <tetraethylle...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:SbydndOytv-LZPbV...@comcast.com...
The post was generic. . If you can plug it, do so.
Hachiroku ハチロク
> =?iso-2022-jp?q?Hachiroku_=1B$B%O%A%m%=2F=1B=28B?= <Tru...@e86.GTS>
> wrote:
>>
>>One of them had the oil pan bolts working loose and the entire underside
>>of the car was oil undercoated.
>
> Good thing. Prevents body rust.
> --scott
And it did! Except where it got hit when it was a year old. Started
rusting from inside the panel. Traded it while it still looked good...
john...@hotmail.com
other open electrical parts.
Matt
Beware of washing some of the informational labels. I washed one under
my hood and all the writing came off. The labels on the driver's door
are blank---as if written with disappearing ink.
Steve
> Just make sure you don't get water into the alternator, AC clutch or
> other open electrical parts.
>
>
Water won't hurt an alternator or AC/clutch! Don't hit it with a
pressure washer so that a jet of water blasts past the bearing seals,
but other than that its harmless to an alternator or AC clutch. If
you've ever had an AC clutch apart, the electrical wiring (just a magnet
coil) is completely encased inside a plastic potting compound.
Alternator wiring is entirely magnet wire which is coated and
waterproof, and even the exposed brush/sliprings won't be harmed by a
little water. Heck, offroaders submerge their alternators routinely, and
lots of regular street cars have the alternators down where splash from
puddles can get to them.
Retired VIP
<tetraethylle...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>On 2008-07-02, Retired VIP <jackj.ext...@windstream.net> wrote:
>
>> Does your girl friend/wife/significant other get turned on by a clean
>> engine? I don't understand why you want to clean your engine, it
>> won't make the car run better. It won't help the engine to run cooler
>> or the A/C to work better. Well, maybe the A/C might work better if
>> the condenser is plugged up with bugs and stuff.
>> Keep the outside clean and the hood closed.
>
>Do you ever do any of your own work on a car? It's a lot easier when you
>keep things underneath and under the hood clean or at least somewhat
>clean.
No, the job is a little bit cleaner but not easier. Yes, I do a lot
of my own work and I used to clean my engine at the car wash every
couple of months. It's a waste of money and time.
> Tracing a leak is a lot easier when things are kept clean. And as
>far as the engine working better, when clean it is working as it was
>designed. Accelerated life testing may not get the engine and other
>parts coated in the sorts of grime they do over a period of years of
>real operation. Grime can do harm in a number of ways. Sure it may
>something that isn't measurable and can't be pulled out of the noise of
>random and old-age part failures, but other than some rare exceptions
>its not doing any good being there.
Hmmm, you seem to be saying that a clean engine makes a big difference
in how the engine runs and how long it lasts but you can't measure any
difference.
Name a problem caused by dirty valve covers or caked-on crude on the
oil pan. What problem would dust and dirt on the fire wall cause?
Jack
Retired VIP
<Mov...@outa.here> wrote:
>Dirt dropping into the brake fluid reservoir when you check it.
>
>
>>Jack
Well hell Scott, you wipe the damn thing off with a rag before you
take the top off. Same holds true for the oil filler, wipe it off
with a rag before you take the cap off.
You guys do what you want about washing your car's engine. If it
makes you feel better to have a clean engine, then great. Just don't
try to convince me that your car runs better or last longer than mine
will with a dirty engine. Oh yeah, don't come crying to me when
you're stuck in a car wash bay with a wet engine that won't start. Or
crack a hot manifold by spraying cold water on it.
Jack
Brent P
> On Wed, 02 Jul 2008 17:00:48 -0500, Brent P
><tetraethylle...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>>On 2008-07-02, Retired VIP <jackj.ext...@windstream.net> wrote:
>>
>>> Does your girl friend/wife/significant other get turned on by a clean
>>> engine? I don't understand why you want to clean your engine, it
>>> won't make the car run better. It won't help the engine to run cooler
>>> or the A/C to work better. Well, maybe the A/C might work better if
>>> the condenser is plugged up with bugs and stuff.
>>> Keep the outside clean and the hood closed.
>>
>>Do you ever do any of your own work on a car? It's a lot easier when you
>>keep things underneath and under the hood clean or at least somewhat
>>clean.
> No, the job is a little bit cleaner but not easier.
I don't know where you live, but keeping an engine compartment clean
cuts down on the corrosion and that does make things easier.
> Yes, I do a lot
> of my own work and I used to clean my engine at the car wash every
> couple of months. It's a waste of money and time.
I've never found a need to do it that frequently.
>> Tracing a leak is a lot easier when things are kept clean. And as
>>far as the engine working better, when clean it is working as it was
>>designed. Accelerated life testing may not get the engine and other
>>parts coated in the sorts of grime they do over a period of years of
>>real operation. Grime can do harm in a number of ways. Sure it may
>>something that isn't measurable and can't be pulled out of the noise of
>>random and old-age part failures, but other than some rare exceptions
>>its not doing any good being there.
> Hmmm, you seem to be saying that a clean engine makes a big difference
> in how the engine runs and how long it lasts but you can't measure any
> difference.
Go play games somewhere else. It's plainly clear what I said.
> Name a problem caused by dirty valve covers or caked-on crude on the
> oil pan. What problem would dust and dirt on the fire wall cause?
Why those specific ones? Why not road salt coating brake lines?
ah
"Matt" <ma...@themattfella.xxxyyz.com> wrote in message
news:uDZak.79890$t44....@fe105.usenetserver.com...
As are some warranties! LOL
Matt
And JC Penney's receipts.