How do I go about replacing the power steering in 1995 camry
to do it before my power steering pump gives up?
I have read it uses automatic transmission fluid, which is red/pink.
But mine power steering fluid is black. Probably never flushed
during last 247000 miles...
How do I do it? Any tested method? How much ATF does it take?
"Pszemol" <Psz...@PolBox.com> wrote in message
news:gcrgi4...@poczta.onet.pl...
Use a turkey baster.
What do you mean exactly? Are you talking about replacing fluid in
the container only? What about the rest of the system? Lines? Pump?
I was thinking about disconnecting the return line going to the
container and moving it to some bucket, draining the fluid when
running the engine for 30 seconds. Then replacing the line and
adding new fluid. But what is the system volume? Anybody?
I use a baister and synthetic trans fluid, you will get most and can
do it twice, but noise means its probably to late.
I have removed the return hose from the reservoir and drained
what I could. Then I added fresh fluid to the reservoir and with
the engine still off I turned wheels left and right (very hard to
do without help of the PS). Almost all reservoir fluid was gone
so I fill it again and turned the whells again... Yahoo...
Encuraged with this success I had a thought: the fluid in the pump
and the steering cylinders was still old... Hm... I need to start the
engine! Great idea :-) The problem is that by the time I turned
the key in the ignition and get out of the car to see what is going
on all the fluid was gone splashing into my engine bay making
a big mess. PInk foam was running out from the return tube...
What a mess! :-)))
Anyway... I put the return hose back to the reservoir and filled
the reservoir with fresh fluid. Started the car again... Fluid was
mixed with air and there was a lot of foam in the reservoir,
but luckily not overflowing. After a minute or two of turning
the wheels it seems that the air escaped from the system and
fluid in the reseirvoir stopped foaming. Turned the wheels left
and right untill they fully locked and it seems like all the air is
gone. Topped off the reservoir to the hot/max sign and I am done.
Maybe not all done - I have a big mess to be cleaned now,
of course :-) At least I think I do not have any old fluid in the
system anymore :-)
As far as the noise is concerned it seems the unfortune procedure
did not change anything in this department. The noise is noticable
when I move the steering wheel - it is some kind of buzzing noise.
Other than the one when I turn the wheels left or right to the end.
There is also one other noise from somewhere in the engine
not related to the wheels turning but rather engine reving up
above 3500 rpms. It stops when the engine goes over 4200rpms.
Not sure what this can be - removed the alternator/AC belt
and driven for a while to check if this is not alternator but the
noise is still there. Wanted to remove the belt from the PS pump
but the bolt is stuck frozen so it might be the PS pump... not sure.
I hope it is not the transmission, but the noise seems to be on
all gears, regardless of the gear shifter position (D, OD/off, 2)
Other than that, this camry is proving to be very reliable at
247k miles!
http://www.acura-legend.com/vbulletin/f13/diy-complete-power-steering-system-flush-118936/
IIRC the system is sligthly over a quart. but to flush it you need to
use more, with the helper pour it in while it siphons out the other
tube.
Try getting a PS seal kit, maybe a bearing. But if the vanes are shot
(or the cavity scored, clearance exceeded, etc) then you definitely
need a new pump. If you can remove the bolt.
Also, you'll need a long pry bar to apply force when putting on the
belt. This is another reason why I don't like the jack-screw or slide-
rail design for tensioning. It should be an automatic tensioner.
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t19334.html
On Oct 12, 9:10 pm, johngd...@hotmail.com wrote:
> Actually you do *not* need to run the engine. Putting the car on
> stands, use a 3/8" tube on the return side, and then turn the steering
> wheel lock to lock is enough to pump it out. Many other owners have
> reported this excellent trick. See also:
>
> http://www.acura-legend.com/vbulletin/f13/diy-complete-power-steering...
Yeah, the noise when the wheels are pressing against the stop is lauder and
sounds differently. I am talking about quieter noise which resembles wet
rubber squeaking, little bit vibrating, only when I move my steering wheel
left or right.
I will give a couple of days with new fluid and see if the noise is better
or worse.
I see there is no more air in the reservoir after my disasterous procedure
of flushing old dirty fluid, so I think all is good now. Not sure why all
people are so affraid of letting the air in the system. It does not seem to
be such a problem for me... At least for now :-)
I second that! Did it on my '96, my wife's '99 and my dad's 01 Camry.
I used to use the turkey baster method, then got tired of doing that
and decided to flush it all out.
The original fluid smelled *horrible*.
John, that's a great link: http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t19334.html
Michael
I'm for the baster procedure in changeing P/S tank.
Last weekend I changed the ( rear ) end fluid with the syn-blend . Is it
alright to add leftover blend to the already blackened fluid of the P/S
reservoir ? Wondering when I gradually change it, that somethin my go wrong.
At this time nothing is making noise.
black is bad, oil is full of particles from wear, change it.
You can do repeated changes in the reservoir. Like every oil change or
everyother change. Just takes longer. Takes more fluid and changes,
because you mix new and old. Works too. Done that.