How I Solved My Camry's Stalling Problem
mrda...@gmail.com
stall - only when warm, only when approaching a stop light or stop
sign, and only after being driven at least 7 miles. RPMs would
fluctuate between 250 and 750 RPM; throwing the transmission into
Neutral and tapping the gas pedal would help to avoid a stall. If it
did stall, cranking the car could usually revive the engine.
In the past, this only happened about once a month. Didn't bother me
that much. Lately, though, it had begun to stall on any trip longer
than 7 miles. My commute to work is only 3 miles; so, I took my time
trying to figure it out.
The Solution: My EGR Vacuum Modulator needed replacing.
What I Had Tried Before:
o replacing intake air hose (it was cracked and needed replacing
anyway; $90 at the dealership)
o replaced stuck PCV valve (I forget how much)
o changed spark plugs (they were clean; no sign of soot); done myself
o changed leaking distributor O-ring (mechanic did this; about $90 for
the labor)
o tried Tri-Flow Teflon in IAC valve; done myself
o cleaned throttle plate with throttle plate cleaner and a toothbrush;
done myself
o disassembled and cleaned throttle body (with throttle plate cleaner
and a can of compressed air); done myself
o disassembled and cleaned idle air control valve (and stripped a
Pozidrive screw; thank goodness for the Dremel screw extraction
method!); done myself
o changed transmission fluid (thinking it was a stuck shift solenoid);
done myself
o changed coolant sensor ($12 at Autozone); done myself. (Haynes said
to measure the voltage across it; should be 5V. I measured 10V, so
thought this was bad. Guess I was wrong.
o steam-cleaned the inside of the engine by squirting distilled water
into the intake manifold while the engine was running.
o removed and cleaned EGR valve; done myself (had to remove the nut at
the engine; blowtorch method loosened the valve from the pipe)
What Worked: Disconnected my EGR valve, and placed a 3-inch nail in
the vacuum line. Car didn't stall anymore, but I didn't want to risk
the higher engine temperature, and I wasn't too comfortable with the
knowledge I'd fail a smog check. Worked when I had absolutely no
choice though (stalling like crazy on a city street; pulled over, put
the nail in, no problem).
Now that I knew it was the EGR system, I had to narrow it down to: EGR
valve, EGR modulator, vacuum switching valve, or some leaking vacuum
line.
I took out the EGR valve, and cleaned it (twice) with throttle plate
cleaner. It didn't hold vacuum very well (vacuum pump had it losing
pressure slowly), but at least it would spring back to the CLOSED
position fairly quickly.
Took a chance: borrowed the EGR modulator from my wife's '99 Camry
(some research showed the parts are interchangeable), then drove
around with that in my '96 Camry. 30 mile trip; no stall.
Notes: My mechanic said they would charge $85 just to LOOK at the
problem. That got me motivated to disassemble the throttle body and
IAC valve (which the mechanic said was a usual problem with these
Camrys). Ordinarily I wouldn't do that.
Posting here, in the hope this will be of use to someone.
Michael
--
Wireless network setup, computer upgrades and repair.
http://www.acomputerexpert.com
"You see, then, that it is by his actions that a person is put right
with God, and not by his faith alone." James 2:24
doncee
Thanks for the post & info. Should be of great value to someone
experiencing similiar probs.
dc
mrda...@gmail.com
> I hear alot of EGR problems, is this something you have to replace
> every 100k-150k?? miles? is there anything you can do to prevent
> premature failure of EGRs?
Good question. From what I've read, Toyota seems to design parts
(like radiators) to last only 10 years or so, on the philosophy that,
if it breaks after 10 years, you can't really complain. And compared
to some American cars, I guess they're right...
It seems that the EGR valve might need cleaning every 100k miles or so
(especially considering its job: piping dirty exhaust back into the
intake manifold), but it's really difficult to remove - I had to
remove it from the engine block, and to get there, you have to remove
the air hose and throttle body (or at least I did).
I've also heard that if you fail a smog check, the EGR valve is a
prime suspect.
One hint I had about the EGR modulator was a small spot of black stuff
on the inside filter of the EGR modulator. I found a thread somewhere
on the web that had a picture of a really gray EGR modulator filter -
and someone replied that the EGR modulator had ruptured, piping
exhaust through the filter (which shouldn't happen) - and to replace
the part.
I'm tempted to just go to the local junkyard to find a replacement EGR
modulator - guy quoted me $10. Pretty easy to install, once you've
swapped it out a few times. ;-)
Otherwise, I'd go to www.toyotadiscountparts.com. The part number is
25870-74090. It's about $44 there, but need to order $100 worth of
parts to get the free shipping. Hmm...
Regards,
Michael
James Spencer
news:1176305807.5...@n76g2000hsh.googlegroups.com...
up when doing 100km/h. I tried to replace the EGR valve as well as the
modulator to no avail. Another symptom was that it was blowing off the
vacuum hose from the EGR valve. I'm thinking that the catalytic convertor
is plugged and will be replacing it tomorrow. Let you know how it goes.
--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
Daniel
> Good question. From what I've read, Toyota seems to design parts
> (like radiators) to last only 10 years or so, on the philosophy that,
> if it breaks after 10 years, you can't really complain.
Here's a link to a million mile Toyota. Tends to refute the idea that
parts are designed for limited life.
http://www.racetoretirement.org/
mrda...@gmail.com
I realized I misspoke. I didn't mean to imply that Toyota designed
*all* parts to last only 10 years. Just some parts. Radiators in
particular... (I'm still a little bitter about my radiator busting on
me 2 years ago... but I'll get over it... ;-)
I read a page somewhere discussing radiator life and design (probably
comparing the plastic and aluminum radiators) but I can't find the
link at the moment...
On the plus side, I'm absolutely amazed at how well the paint job on
my '96 Camry is holding up. Still looks new. Even where there are
some scratches where I banged the car accidentally with skis years
ago, there is no rust growth. Compare that with my dad's '86 Ford
Ranger - the entire paint job was peeling off after 8 years, and the
body was rusting.
Michael
video...@hotmail.com
Dear oh dear still playing around with EGR ??
mrda...@gmail.com
>
> - Show quoted text -
All Done!
Got an EGR modulator from the junkyard yesterday - US $11, with tax.
(Imagine that - they tax used parts too, here in California...)
Drove for 15 miles, no stall. That was yesterday. Drive 46 miles
today for a work-related doctor's appointment. No stall. Going
there, I took a side-road, with lots of stops. On the way back, I
took the freeway, to make sure the engine didn't explode on me at
highway speeds. No explosion. [haha]
Thanks to everyone for all the advice and help
Michael
camry-keeper
cause cracking. Nice problem-solving discussion. Thanks.
Jason James
"Daniel" <nospam...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1176329102....@l77g2000hsb.googlegroups.com...
That's a pretty good endorsement of the SR5. I hope the Camry with its sedan
suspension is just as durable.
Lately, I've noticed a slight pull to the left (we drive on the left side of
the road in Oz,..a left-over from pomme influence) lately. Tyre pressures
are monitored regularly. I'll have to investigate (ohh my aching back)
Jason
mrda...@gmail.com
wrote:
> You squirted water into your intake manifold??? The thermal gradients can
> cause cracking. Nice problem-solving discussion. Thanks.
Well, I sprayed it in as a mist - using one of those squeeze-sprayers
you can get for cheap at Wal-Mart. While the engine was revving at
2000 rpm. I sure didn't pour it in.
I was... upset... that the car still stalled on that day.
Thanks for the warning though.
Michael
Daniel
EdV wrote:
> I hear alot of EGR problems, is this something you have to replace
> every 100k-150k?? miles? is there anything you can do to prevent
> premature failure of EGRs?
Wasn't aware this type of problem was common.
My understanding was always that EGR valves are quite trouble free
apart from the propensity to become clogged or jammed with carbon.
For a long time I used RedLine complete fuel system cleaner which
claims to also clean emission control components. I know when I
resealed the oil pan and removed the center exhaust pipe, looking up
into the exhaust manifold it looked very clean.
Recently switched to Lucas fuel treatment which also claims to clean
carbon.
I suspect there are certain driving conditions which may contribute to
carbon accumulation more than others and I also suspect this can
shorten the life and responsiveness of oxygen sensors by coating the
ceramic cone in the exhaust stream which responds to the presence of
oxygen.
The other failure mode for EGR valves would be leakage in the
diaphragm or associated vacuum lines.
EdV
more "detergents" in them... right? would you recommend fuel systems
cleaners yearly? Is it true that if you drive slowly carbon buildup
will be much higher?
Daniel
> So paying for the expensive gas does pay the price, I hear they have
> more "detergents" in them... right? would you recommend fuel systems
> cleaners yearly? Is it true that if you drive slowly carbon buildup
> will be much higher?
I use Shell gasoline. Used to be Chevron.
I use the fuel system treatment (RedLine previously, now Lucas)
continuously. The bottles are marked to add a few ounces per fillup.
Not sure about slow driving on longer trips with engine fully warmed.
My guess is carbon accumulation would be higher on an engine during
warm up and also while idling.
mrda...@gmail.com
> EdV wrote:
> > So paying for the expensive gas does pay the price, I hear they have
> > more "detergents" in them... right? would you recommend fuel systems
> > cleaners yearly? Is it true that if you drive slowly carbon buildup
> > will be much higher?
>
> ===
> I use Shell gasoline. Used to be Chevron.
"Used to be" Chevron? There's a story here, I can tell...
Tom Sprung
news:1176400052.6...@p77g2000hsh.googlegroups.com...
resonator installed. It ended up that I also needed a new muffler so that's
been done as well. All engine problems solved. No more power problems and
no more engine overheating. Amazing what a plugged converter can do to a
vehicle.
mrda...@gmail.com
> mrdarr...@gmail.com> wrote in message
Were you posting under James Spencer's name earlier? I recall Mr.
Spencer mentioned he planned to change his cat. converter too.
Great, that you had the overheating problem fixed! Yes we care!
Thanks for the information.
How did you know you needed a new muffler installed?
To me, my engine is a little *too* quiet. Sometimes, if I start the
engine then get distracted, I have to look at the tachometer to know
the engine's running, and not accidentally strip the gears by
"starting" while running. Guess I shouldn't complain... ;-)
Regards,
Michael
video...@hotmail.com
>
> - Show quoted text -
How do you "clean out a cat canverter" very interesting.
If what you mean is some idiot knocked the guts out of it , also very
dangerous.
dave
