Color Sanding
John Poulos
feet, but lots of orange peel and dry spots. I called Studeman about
color sanding and following his tips and am the process of color sanding
the old enamel paint. I taped up all the seams to protect the edges, wet
sanded the car with 1500 grit dampened in soapy water, than 2000 grit. I
just did one fender, than got out the buffer to buff out the 2000 grit
sand scratches and Wow ! I can't wait to do the whole car, than buff
polish and wax, it's going to make a big difference in the gloss.
--
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64 R1 GT Hawk
63 R2 GT Hawk/4 speed
63 R1 GT Hawk/4 speed
63 GT Hawk (show car)
63 Avanti R3 clone
62 Daytonas HT/4 speed
56 Golden Hawk
Frank Starr
Body shops used to do that kind of thing, but now they seem to be afraid of
anything that involves real work.
Frank Starr
"John Poulos" <ava...@erols.com> wrote in message
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John Poulos
it'll add a grand or so to the looks of the car. Again, it makes me wonder why
the previous owner didn't do it, probably he he couldn't do it himself and the
labor charge would have been too expensive..
Tom Noller
about two years ago. Paint job has held up well, but the finish is
dull and I've not done the wet sanding to bring out the gloss. I'll
try a not so conspicuous spot first.
Fred Buchholz
Fred
"John Poulos" <ava...@erols.com> wrote in message
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John Poulos
scratches.
Jim Turner
Be sure to use a rubber pad that looks like my 52 did (full of holes) it
will help keep you from sanding in your fingers! (leaving lines in the
paint)
I always use lots of soapy water too.
Jim Turner
Steve Hudson
possible if there's enough material there, and it can turn a $1500 paint
job into a $5000 paint job. You are taking a risk, but the results are
worth it in my opinion.
S2DSteve
BondoBill1
If it does not have the hardener in it, the paint might be too thin and soft to
withstand not only the sanding, but the buffing. With the hardener, you will be
okay.
.
John Poulos
even without hardener, tape the edges and be careful and don't try it if the paint
is thin..
BondoBill1 wrote:
--
RGrossHD
I like to use a flat paint stirring stick with the sandpaper wrapped around it.
Soapy water is important. Soak the sandpaper in the soapy water for at least 30
minutes before using. This will result in less chance of gouging the paint.
When color sanding rinse and wipe dry often to check progress.
Important understatement follows: Color sanding metallic enamels can result in
less than desirable results.
Randy Grossman
Mike W
works very well.
Mike W.
Packard Hawk
BondoBill1
apply a liberal coat of the naptha over the sanded area, then sight down it.
Due to its vicsosity and the way it stays wet before flashing off, you can tell
how the gloss / body work will look if you painted at that point in sanding.
You can do the same with pre-cleano, but at $45-$60 a gallon naptha is cheap
enough.
David Carter
done by a few but don't know why gas instead of soapy water? Any clues....
--
David Carter
San Jose, CA.
1950 Champion Starlight Coupe
1953 Champion Deluxe 2 Dr Sedan
http://home.att.net/~dcat917/Default.htm
http://home.att.net/~stude53/Default.htm
"John Poulos" <ava...@erols.com> wrote in message
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Tom Noller
Oldcarfart
>From: flat...@aol.com (Tom Noller)
>Well Dave, if there's gas involved, OCF must have something to do with it!
>:-)
I have the "Brackish Wind" style <G>
Dave's Place
:-)
So I have... heard. <G>
--
Dave Lester and the Ain't This The Pits Crew
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Dave's Place Auto Sales and Automotive Collectibles
http://www.davesplaceinc.com
randee
1) First time I ever heard about this was when I saw a painter I knew
actually gasoline sanding a 57SC. I had brought some car to him (forget
what) for a bit of refinishing, and he was in the middle of sanding; I
asked him why he was doing it that way. He said the gasoline helps the
paper cut, carries the grit and paint particles away better than water,
and is not absorbed by the paint like water is. He gasoline sanded
after every double coat. He also said it was awfully hard on the hands.
2) Second time I heard about it was from a painter I chatted with for
quite some time who painted the 'Best of Show' 'J' at a Sears Grand
Classic in Chicago. He had painted the 'J' that way in a beautiful two
tone red/light maroon color. Somewhere I have a slide of the car.
3) Friend of mine who did mechanical restorations on Rolls' at one time
told me that's how the factory painted the cars. Dunno if true or not.
4) Somewhere around here I have an article from a cabinetmaking magazine
wherein they describe how to refinish your Steinway. Same procedure,
gasoline sand with 600 grit between double coats.
The cars that I have seen done this way did indeed have that depth of
finish of a Steinway Grand. Even better than looking into a mirror,
about like looking a the 3D effect of a hologram. This is because all
those layers are each their own mirror. If you look at them with the
sun just right you can see the swirl marks in the finish, but looking
straight on, or at the correct angle with respect to the sun, the 3D
effect is amazing. Obviously your only going to do this with a car
worth the effort and with real paint, i.e. nitrocellulose lacquer; none
of your silly polyurethane's which are all gloss and with no depth at
all......
--
wf.
Wayne Flowers
Randee Greenwald
ran...@zianet.com
Steve Hudson
What exactly is "VMP Naptha" and where would you get it?
S2DSteve
K. Marion
OK guys, I've read all this. Is there anything else to help me color
sand my GT? It is a driver and has a fairly new urethane CHEAP Maaco
paint job. The paint is about amateur in quality. What sandpaper, what
color, what buffing paste, any other tips or procedures? My body shop
wants at least $300 to do this. I've read all the posts, figure I can
do this. Anthing else to help. Thx
Studeman
randee
Dupont (or your favorite brand) dealer and show him the paint and ask
him those questions. My experience has been that many/most paint supply
houses are quite willing to dispense free (and good) advice.
--
BondoBill1
Lighter Fluid, you can get it at any hardware store or Home Depot or Lowes.
VMP Naptha has a slower flash off than lighter fluid, plus lighter fluid is
expensive.
If you want to be really frugal, get a bucket of warm water and add about three
ounces of a liquid dishwasher soap. It makes the water "wetter" and acts as a
wetting agent, and also will show off the potential gloss of a pending paint
job.
Bill
Studeman
'61 Hawk(1988), I used their "recently introduced" Deltron single-stage urethane paint. The paint
store advised me to watersand the finish the 600 grit and buff it to remove trash, orange peel,
etc... I did as I was advised, and buffed for 3 #**&$#* days trying to get some gloss. I was finally
able to make it look OK, but the paint was extremely thin when I finished... It lasted a couple
years only until you could start seeing the primer through it. A paint store...never again! A
reputable body shop...sure.....
A friend of the NG?
Visit here:
http://home.triad.rr.com/baker6x6kya/Studebaker/StudeTech3.htm
Ray
Kerry D
do all the sanding and buffing to get one done right for much less
than the 300.00 quote. You can and should do it yourself, but don't be
misled, it is a lot of work to do it right! Figure the equipment,
materials and labor and that is not a high price! And be careful not
to get the paint too hot as that can cause "lifting" down the road. I
do like the 3M buffing line better than any other I have used.
Steve Hudson
the paint will lose it's shine, except in the low spots. The low spots
will remain shiny until you take off enough material to completely level
the paint. Once the paint is uniformly dull, you should have an
absolutely flat surface which then can be buffed to a glass-like finish
(theoretically).
One painter I know would leave the very bottom of the orange peel
"craters" shiny after sanding. He would then buff to even out the
finish. His theory was that this eliminated any chance of sanding
through while still giving a finish 95% as good as a completely
flattened job
S2DSteve
Studegary
>"craters" shiny after sanding.
I did this with lacquer on a Studebaker to make it look like a good enamel job.
Gary L.
Wyatt
If I were in your shoes I would go to the local paint and body jobber
(not pep boys)and purchase some 3m 1200 paper for the color sand then
if you have a electric buffer avalible inquire about the 3m foam
polishing system, this system is more forgiving that the cloth
bonnets, you will have to use the 2 3m compounds made for this system,
after that some final finish and you should be in good shape. Keep in
mind just for the supplies you will be out about $125 to $175 dollars