Grit of Color Paper fpr sanding /repairing stainless trim

[bondobilly]

There was a post a few eels ago about using 1000 ONLY

Not to use 1200 nor t use 900, but only 1200

Could some kind personl explain that?

THANKS

[gu...@isd.net]

Hey Bill,

You might want to review the 10 Step process that Iverson Automitive
uses:

http://www.iversonautomotive.com/Welcome.htm

Henry Votel
Forest Lake, MN

[gu...@isd.net]

[@accs.net Lark Parker]

In article <vghue.1546$UG3...@fe11.lga>, bondobilly says...

>
>There was a post a few eels ago about using 1000 ONLY
>
>Not to use 1200 nor t use 900, but only 1200
>

>Could some kind of personl explain that?
>
>THANKS
>
>

What kind of person did you need? <g>

I went back and looked at a previous NG thread but didn't any find advice to
that effect. Might not be the particular thread referred to?

In the one thread I found, I did advise don't quit at anything coarser than 1000
grit if you are going to buff.

Using 1200 grit is perfectly OK.

Finishing with anything FINER (ie 1500 grit) than 1200 right before buffing
doesn't give you much payback for the time spent. As the 1000 or 1200 wears
down it acts like a finer grit anyhow.

Finishing with anything COARSER (ie 800 grit) than 1000 right before buffing
will keep you buffing a long time. A long, long time depending on the desired
finish.

In my humble opinion, sanding should be used for surface polishing -- not
leveling repairs. That is the reason that coarse grits below 1000 were not
advised in the discussion. Most Studebaker ss trim is .020" thick but the
rocker panel strips, M truck nose trim, and a few other pieces run .050" or.060"
thick and coarser grits could be more generally used on those heavier pieces.

This advice assumes you are power sanding. I use a water spritz to help keep
down the heat and clean the paper. I don't use hand sand except sometimes in
repaired areas.

I am not qualified to advise you on how to hand sand pieces other than I assume
that most of the the same things hold true and you will be there a few days,
weeks, months, years, decades......

3M sandpaper of those grits are $.84 per sheet. GULP.

--
Lark Parker

[bondobilly]

I have been working very hard trying to polish up the smoke/fire damage of
the stainless piece under the fin and the
wheel well trim

I discovered on the og stright piece which took the brunt of the flames the
stainless pitted and no matter
what grit I use, I cannot get them out.

The wheel well trim is just smoke discolored. I have a feeling that the area
of the stainless that has these pits, was
directly under the area of fin that actually burned and melted

The heat at the wheel well, even with a burning tire, and fluids was not as
intense as the heat up by the part of the fin that
reallly took the hit in heat and smoke.

Bill