It's now in my yard, but now what???
Kent Fedor
old '50 champion that has family ties. Well, it's now in my yard. Last
week I had driven our Ford 5610 tractor up there and after 5 hours
got it out with much effort. The wheels on the right ride turned, but
the left side were frozen, but with some mild tapping on the backing
plate the left side freed up. AND fortuneately the the trans would
shift, so I could put it in nutral. AND to make the whole moving
experience easier, the 4 tires held air. So today when I went back
with my pickup and a friend's flatbed, it was real easy to winch the
stude up on the trailer.
The Car unfortuneately is probally regelated to parts since the
main body shell and frame are pretty rough. However the the crome,
glass, and dravetrain are pretty good, and did I mention I got a title
too? The engine is free and I'm sure I could have it running in a few
hours. I would really like to find a stripped 47-50 champion
frame/body shell, or any parts there of, as I really really would like
to be able to piece together a car that is more or less when I'm done
is a keepsake of my Grandfather, and my relitives connection with
Studebaker in South Bend. This car was originaly purchased new by my
relitives at the Freeman-Spicer dealership there In South Bend. In
1967 it made the trip to some relitives hunting property 20 miles
from where we live. It was used as "deer camp transportation" till the
mid 70's when it was last used. I'm really happy though as it was free
if I wanted to get it.
I sure would like to be able to make a project out of this, or at
least use some parts of it. So if any of you guys have any
remotely-resorable 47-50 champion parts, that you would be willing to
part with let me know. As I am only 19 and in college, I could afford
a modest/reasonable price for a champion frame or body parts, but the
cheaper the better, lol. If you can help with parts give me an e-mail
at: rchome...@hotmail.com
Thanks, I'm probally going to be sending an article into TW soon
about my relitive's connection with Studebaker & South Bend, complete
with some vintage photos, so look for it.
God Bless, Kent Fedor
Sonny
get the grandpa's car back on it's feet! Is it a 4 door car? I don't have
many parts for you right now, but I'll damn sure try to help you find what
you need, we need more young fellas like yourself taking up the hobby. Trust
me on this one, do what ever it takes to put that car back together, don't
give up, (oh yeah, you'll get discouraged at times, trust me on that too
<G>.), but you'll have an education when you're finished that could rival
formal education, and it will serve you the remainder of your life. If you
ever get married and have little ones, it's something to pass on, it's a
special experience when I'm working with my son on our Studebakers.
Enough of the mushy stuff, as a suggestion, (and if you have the space to do
it), take the car apart piece by piece, starting with the interior and
anything shiny on the outside. Mark EVERY part with a magic marker or paint
stick, take pictures, put the little stuff in well labeled baggies, Put all
the parts for assemblies in the same baggie or a box if you can fit them,
even the screws because there IS screws that are particular to certain
parts, and you'll need a reference. Then put all the baggies in well labeled
boxes so you'll be able to find things easily. OH! TAKE PICTURES! <G>
Next, pull the front "clip", meaning every body part from the firewall
forward, the rear fenders and gas tank and rear bumper.
Next, engine and tranny come out, BUT, before you do, try as hard as you can
to get it running as good as you can and try to move the car back and forth
with the tranny. It might need a clutch, but mebbe not, get some expert help
here to make an educated determination as to the condition of engine and
tranny. I normally just pull 'em and go through 'em, but if you're on a
tight budget, mebbe that old six cylinder can serve you for a while IF it's
not knocking and/or with just a few things,(and ONLY if it needs it), like
a valve job, carb., distributor, fuel pump, water pump, etc.. Those old
flatheads are tough, and would run for a long time for as much as you will
probably be driving it. The rear end can stay if you have to keep it mobile.
NOW, you can make a better appraisal of what you have. Next, get a pretty
good sized flat screwdriver and start poking around the whole car, don't be
shy, dig right in where ever it looks "iffy". Pay particular attention to
all corners inside and outside of the body, the rockers, any places
underneath the fenders, trunk floor and of course, the FRAME, ALL body
mounts and cross members. You will see body areas that look "cheesy", that's
because about the only thing that particular area is doing is casting a
shadow. As you dig into it, you'll see the "cheesey" area get bigger. You
CAN repair areas like that with fiberglas, but if the budget will stand it,
put metal patches in to maintain the strength, integrity and appearances,
just do it right if ya can. You will have to replace every brake line, fuel
line, and probably every wire in the car, don't freak on that, all that
stuff is readily available, as is every other part on your Studebaker.
After you're satisfied that you know pretty much what the body and frame
condition is, it's time to pull the wheels (you MUST have a special puller
to get the back drums/hubs off), and the master cylinder, (under the
driver's side floor), off. The '50 has a peculiar self adjusting brake setup
like nothing you ever saw, but all easily available. You can use the backer
plates, drums and hubs if they check out, (within tolerances using
calipers), but unless you KNOW that the other parts inside the wheels were
completely rebuilt within the last year, put 'em in baggies and find ALL new
or like new parts. (I have all the parts, including drums and hubs for the
front for you). After you've taken everything from inside the drums out, you
can put the drums back on to keep the car mobile, just block the wheels so
it won't move. Have I mentioned TAKE PICTURES? <G>
Next, from what you've described, you'll find that the front end components
need a total rebuild, (bushings, shocks, tie rod ends, etc., and mebbe even
king bolt bushings). Get some expert help with these parts for sure if you
are unfamiliar with those components.
All of this preparation should give you an excellent idea of what you have,
what you need, what we can help find for you, what we have that you can
have, an idea of some kind of budget and work schedule, (what needs
attention first, usually the body but it's nice to have the engine in the
shop at the same time if it has to be fixed so it'll be ready when the body
is). PLUS some real good dreams after you look through all the catalogs,
pictures, and have talks with the rest of the Studebaker maniacs we have
around here. <G> Hope this helps Kent, hang in there, we'll get ya through
it.
Oh yeah, TAKE PICTURES! <GG>
Sonny
"Kent Fedor" <rchome...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:150d0331.03121...@posting.google.com...
Kent Fedor
I'm 187 miles due north of South Bend, here in Michigan.
I have quite a bit of mechcanical experience, and some body work
experience, so this stude project isn't completely "greek". I've
redone several 1930's tractors that had engines 10 times worse then
this (my '37 Case had MICE living in the cyl), so drivetrains are
somewhat fimilar to work on. For my vechicle to drive during High
School, I redid a '81 Ford Bronco, using ALL metal to fix the "normal
rust belt body". So I completely understand what's involved pulling a
vechicle in the Farm shop and redoing it.
Kent Fedor
"Sonny" <as...@adelphia.net> wrote in message news:<QyyCb.230$%33.3...@news2.news.adelphia.net>...
barry
as you mentioned. I have one here in Texas you could have very cheap, but I
think you could find one closer to home. Ask Tommy K.
It would be worth it to me to go out to SD to find a Starlight or Q body
from Voight or Soholt. You could probably snag one needing only rockers &
minor floor repair for $5-600.00
Barry
automotive glutton for punishment
Sonny
be. I'm impressed, most of the fellas your age that I've met these days, for
some reason, just don't have the experience you've had. Ok, let us know
exactly what you need and how many doors does it have? <G>
Kent Fedor
The car I currenty have is a 4-door. Athough I would not turn down a
2-door body and frame.
Need: better body and frame/or a parts car with solid body or frame.
Considering what I have it really would be easier just to start with a
better body and frame. Of course I could probally save the body if I
spent 6 months in the shop holed up with my wire welder, but I've
saved some really bad one-of-a-kind antique tractor fenders, so I know
just how much work it can take making pieces, welding then in,
grinding it down, and if I have to, using some lead (YES I MENTIONED
LEAD, my great-uncle taught me how to use it)to smooth the seam. I
would really really like to limit my effort and find
a-not-so-rustbucket body/ and or frame. Thanks for everyones help, it
seems like this newsgroup and my experience in the past couple years
with SDC, both are a really nice set of people.
Thanks & God Bless,
Kent Fedor
"Sonny" <as...@adelphia.net> wrote in message news:<c7ICb.414$%33.4...@news2.news.adelphia.net>...
James
state inspection. If it is,check if they require that the repairs are
done as manufactured. Some states have this rule, and you'll save a lot
of extra work by checking the rules first. Maryland doesn't require
inspection for vehicles tagged historic, but does if you want to use
regular tags, which requires all repairs be the same gauge or heavier
and welded, even small holes. PA and WV on the other hand are ok with
duct tape and aluminum foil. <G>
Ron Butts
Yep, you're right, weuns here are still runnin around barefoot,(can't find
hand me down shoes to fit) carring muzzel loaders and lookin for revenooors.
All our veheclicles here in the mountain state of old West (byGod) Virginy
are 4WD and held together with that there silver tape that them thar racin
fellows use in them thar roundy round races that weuns see on that new
fangled invention called telleeevision down at the general store along the
creek in the holler. if it's good enuff fer them thar racing fellas, then
jumpin jehosafats, it's gooden enough fer us.
Come to West Virginia and enjoy a trip back in time. That is if you have
the balls!
"James" <vi...@erols.com> wrote in message news:3FE35D03...@erols.com...
Oldcarfart
>From: James vi...@erols.com
> PA and WV on the other hand are ok with
>duct tape and aluminum foil. <G>
and old STOP signs too!
Oldcarfart
>All our veheclicles here in the mountain state of old West (byGod) Virginy
>are 4WD and held together with that there silver tape
I heard they cancelled the WV "Parade of the Virgins" for Thanksgiving this
year, one got sick and the other one would not march alone <G>
Kent Fedor
sort....heck they'd even issue me a plate for it in it's current shape
of being a "Fred Flintstone" car- where I can stick both feet through
the floor to act as brakes.
Kent Fedor
James <vi...@erols.com> wrote in message news:<3FE35D03...@erols.com>...
Grumpy au Contraire
with other states mandating inspections. I suspect that there would not
be much difference between them except for emptier wallets in the other states...
JT
--
JT
Just tooling through cyberspace in my ancient G4
Ron Butts
>
> I heard they cancelled the WV "Parade of the Virgins" for Thanksgiving
this
> year, one got sick and the other one would not march alone <G>
She wasn't sick, she was in labor <GGG>
Jeff Rice
Go to: http://rinkworks.com/dialect/
(Here's what it says you said.....)
Yep, yer right, weuns hyar is still runnin aroun' barefoot,(cain't find han'
me down shoes t'fit) carrin' muzzel loaders an' lookin fo' revenoores. All
our veheclicles hyar in th' mountain state of old Wess (byGod) Virginy are
4WD an' held togither wif thet thar silvah tape thet them thar racin fellers
use in them thar roun'y roun' races thet weuns see on thet noo > fangled
invenshun called telleeevishun down at th' juneral sto'e along the > creek
in th' holler. eff'n it's fine inuff fer them thar racin' fellas, then >
jumpin jehosafats, it's fineen inough fer us. > Come t'Wess ole Virginny an'
injoy a trip back in time. Thet is eff'n yo' have > th' balls!
Hey! Wait a minute... Nuthin's different! You must already be a redneck
<gg>....
Jeff
"Ron Butts" <blackh...@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:9eMEb.1656$IM3....@newsread3.news.atl.earthlink.net...
Avanti_Ken
late 70's then the new republicandominated state legislature determined that
they did not want to continue with another bureaucratic agency, growing at
an exponential rate, draining funds from citizens so the legislature
dismantled it to the chagrin of the democrats. Now, only certain South
Florida countys, per federal EPA dictate, have annual pollution inspections.
With the substantial increase in Florida's population and number of cars
over the last 15 yr's taken into account, the number of serious accidents,
defined as people hurt and needing medical attention, has actually declined
by 34% . This per a recent article I red in the Sentinal, our local paper.
--
Avanti_Ken
"Grumpy au Contraire" <Gru...@doofis.FAKEcom> wrote in message
news:3FE3FF62...@doofis.FAKEcom...
Studegary
>late 70's then the new republicandominated state legislature determined that
>they did not want to continue with another bureaucratic agency, growing at
>an exponential rate, draining funds from citizens
I wish that they would do away with car inspections in New York State. Not
that I don't want safe cars, but it is a real nuisance. Brand new cars have to
be inspected (this wasn't required in the '60's). Every time a car changes
owners it is supposed to be reinspected. You have to go through an annual
inspection at a private, not state, inspection station no matter how far the
car has travelled in the past year. I have had to have many cars reinspected
that had gone less than 500 miles since their last inspection. I have seen
many cases of things like damaged wheelcovers, from checking brakes, done at
inspection. I used to put about 35K miles per year on my primary car and I
have worked where the company cars got more than 55K miles per year, yet the
inspection was still annual. Many garages just use this required inspection to
create additional work. The state inspection is one thing that you can't do
yourself. Enough rant, I will stop <G>.
Gary L.
Studebaker Drivers Club Director - Northeast Zone
35 year member of Studebaker Drivers Club, Inc.
bob40
older cars and trucks that couldnt pass Iowa inspection.The most common
reason for non passage was a cracked windshield.Never got any true
"classics" but for a few bucks a nice driver went North.
Bob(what?..sure it's for sale)40
James
license to steal and boost sales of wipers and headlight adjustments.
Here in MD if they flunk your car they can charge you all over again to
reinspect the repairs. A real pia and wallet
Gordon Richmond
makes people more clever at finding ways to chisel on the inspection.
Here in Alberta, we don't have a provincial inspection, but insurance
companies require cars over 10 years old to have a "safety check"
before they issue insurance. A licensed mechanic fills out a one-page
form.
Some of the forms are so ancient they still refer to king pins; fine
for Studebakers, but try to find king pins on a new Brand X.
I fill out my own inspection form, and my insurance agent knows it.
They really don't care. It's just a CYA, so they can say in the event
of a lawsuit that their insured's vehicle was safety inspected.
Gord Richmond
Jeff DeWitt
they did he. He was very interested to notice that four people in a row
were told their headlights needed to be aimed. When his car was ready
they told him everything was fine except the headlights needed to be aimed.
Dad told them what he had just seen, that his headlights were fine, and
that if they didn't knock it off he was going to report them. They
passed his car like it was <G>.
Sometime later I went to the same place to get my F**d Granada
inspected. I went there because it was a short walk from work and left
the car. When I went to pick it up not only had they failed it but they
had left the parking lights on and ran the battery down. Guy came out
with a booster and attempted to jump start the car and it was even
deader, he suggested that maybe the solenoid was bad. I looked and the
moron had hooked up the booster backward! I told him to get the He**
away from my car, hooked the jumper properly and it started right up.
Needless to say I never went back!
Jeff DeWitt
karl haas
One year, taking it in the day after I had checked all the lights, the
inspector, a friend, pointed out that the RH brake light was out.
I just put in a new one from my supply under the seat while he did the
rest.
The next year, when he tested the brakes on the "rolling road", the
seals popped on the LR brake cylinder and the [edal went to the floor!
I don't know if this counts as an inspection saving a life or not, but
it may have saved an embrassing prang.
(In Massachusetts, one time the boss told the inspector not to waste
time jacking up the front end s it didn't have ball-joints. True
enough, but it sure had a lot of looseness in it!)
Karl
Gordon Richmond <rich...@telusplanet.net> wrote in message news:<ck7auvckn1pt6ng9f...@4ax.com>...