Google Groups no longer supports new Usenet posts or subscriptions. Historical content remains viewable.
Dismiss

944 Drive Shaft problems?

6 views
Skip to first unread message

Leigh

unread,
Feb 24, 1999, 3:00:00 AM2/24/99
to
Hi,

My 1983 944 has been making some unusual noises lately and I was hoping
someone could help me pinpoint the problem.

Basically, there is a "knocking" or "clicking" noise coming from the back
end--it sounds like it is directly between the rear wheels. A friend said
it sounds like the car is driving over railroad tracks. The sound is
similar to someone 'clicking their tongue' (you know what I mean, try it),
just to give you an idea. The noise seems to match frequency with the speed
of the car; at 5mph it clicks maybe once a second, but at 30mph it hits
maybe 15 clicks per second.

The noise is not nearly as prominent when accelerating, in fact it seems to
disappear entirely when I have my foot on the gas. But when coasting in
gear (and more recently, coasting in neutral) the noise shows up.

It doesn't seem to affect the car's performance at all, because acceleration
and handling seem perfectly fine.

It was suggested to look into problems with the drive shaft. Has anybody
heard anything like this before--and how costly will it be to fix?

Thanks -

- Leigh13

lei...@bellatlantic.net
[please replace XX with number above to reply, thanks.]

Leigh

unread,
Feb 24, 1999, 3:00:00 AM2/24/99
to
Since I posted that last message, I've done some more research. It sounds a
lot like those CV joint problems I've seen mentioned recently.

How difficult would it be to replace the entire rear axle with the CV
joints? I found the part in Performance Products for $267.50. The CV
joints are $167.50 each when purchased separately so I figured it might be
best to replace the whole axle.

What kind of labor would go into replacing the whole rear axle? I'd like to
try to follow the directions in the Haynes Manual or
http://www.connactivity.com/~kgross/944faqcv.html but I hope I wouldn't be
asking too much of myself--I'm no mechanic.

- Leigh13

lei...@bellatlantic.net
[please replace XX with number above to reply, thanks.]

Leigh <lei...@bellatlantic.net> wrote in message
news:7b1313$1...@world1.bellatlantic.net...

Klaudius Wientzek

unread,
Feb 24, 1999, 3:00:00 AM2/24/99
to
Hi,

the noise problem can have some causes. The hinges of the drive shafts are
worn-out or the gear or the Cardan shaft or the wheel bearings.
At the drive shafts, one can change the hinges without to have to change the
wave. Starting torque for the six screws are 40 Nm on both side (gear side
and wheel side). The costs for the hinges are not high. It becomes expensive
at the gear. A needed gear is alternative ones. The Cardan shaft, that is
the combination between engine and gear is multiple bearings. If a bearing
is defective or increase, there are then noises also.

Many greetings
Klaudius Wientzek/Germany

Jane Sheridan & John Rankin

unread,
Feb 24, 1999, 3:00:00 AM2/24/99
to
Replacing the rear shafts is not difficult. I imagine the new shafts come
with CV joints on either end. All you need to do is undo the 8 bolts either
end and bolt on the new one. The only thing is that you need a special bit
to turn the bolts, a bit like a Torx bit but it only costs a few bucks. I
found that I stripped a few when I did it, you need to put the bit in the
head of the bolt and give it a tap with a hammer to set it in. Not a big
tap, just a little tap to get the bit in through all the muck on the bolt
head. I had mine off to repack the CV joints which were 9 years old. It
wasn't too bad really and I'm no mechanic either.

skidd

unread,
Feb 24, 1999, 3:00:00 AM2/24/99
to
It sounds like yours is getting bad. Do not wait much longer. The bolt is an 8
mm internally splined bit. I am about a week away from replacing some CV joints
myself. The technical jargon about the tool needed simply means a 12 point 8mm
star shaped male bit (Check your car first, the bolts may have been replaced
with allen head bolts, which are 6 point). I am in Canadian city that is to
small for a Porsche dealer so finding the tool was tough. The easiest way to do
the job yourself is to replace the axle and joints together.

The FAQ you mentioned is a good one. Let me know if you want e-mails about my
continuing experience. Also, check Automotion for parts
http://www.automotion.com that is where I am getting my parts from.

Shane

Leigh wrote:

> Since I posted that last message, I've done some more research. It sounds a
> lot like those CV joint problems I've seen mentioned recently.
>

krammer

unread,
Feb 24, 1999, 3:00:00 AM2/24/99
to
Leigh,

I had a similar problem twice in my '89 944. The click would show up under
acceleration and not while coasting though. All that was required was that
the CV joints needed to be repacked with grease. Don't go buying a new axle
until you've check this out first.

Good Luck,

Mark


SWROTHERT

unread,
Feb 24, 1999, 3:00:00 AM2/24/99
to
Leigh,

I have a 1988 944 and have not experienced that noise in mine. However, about
25 years ago when I had my BMW 2002, I had a worn splined axle that made the
clicking noise only when I turned in one direction and only when the power was
applied to the wheeles. That is, it did not occur when I was coasting. I'd
look at a repair book to see if there are any splined shafts in the rear, and
start fault diagnosis there.

Hope this helps.

Steve Rothert

rlh...@hotmail.com

unread,
Feb 25, 1999, 3:00:00 AM2/25/99
to
Leigh & Mark:

I had the same problem in my '87 944s. The axle rods can be reversed and then
packed and greased.


Robert
In article <7b2a6u$837$1...@winter.news.rcn.net>,

-----------== Posted via Deja News, The Discussion Network ==----------
http://www.dejanews.com/ Search, Read, Discuss, or Start Your Own

alex witherall

unread,
Mar 12, 1999, 3:00:00 AM3/12/99
to
On Wed, 24 Feb 1999 20:48:38 -0500, "krammer"
<kr...@removethiserols.com> wrote:

I had a similar problem (clicking in the axle area) on a 1985 1/2 944.
At first I thought the transaxle was about to give. I turns out that
the clicking was being caused by the CV joints. I proceeded to repack
them using a good grease with molybdenum (sp?) and the noise went
away.

Another problem that I noticed was a grinding noise at idle w/ the
clutch disengaged. A new pilot bearing took care of that. I hope
this helps.

Turboluvin

kwie...@googlemail.com

unread,
Mar 8, 2013, 2:33:18 PM3/8/13
to
0 new messages