Engine Starts Idles low and rough bogs out when given gas afm clatters at times radiator fan that stays on till engine is cool never shuts off other radiator fan doesn't come on drove it around the block shuts off at stops have to gun it to get going
> Engine Starts > Idles low and rough > bogs out when given gas > afm clatters at times > radiator fan that stays on till engine is cool never shuts off > other radiator fan doesn't come on > drove it around the block > shuts off at stops > have to gun it to get going
> changed dme > changed afm
> what to change next?
> All help appreciated
> Rick
check for air leak. Check timing before starting it again, slipped belt will do this. most probable is a cracked J tube (the rubber intake). Dirty injectors do this also.
Only one fan runs normally -- it takes AC on to activate second fan.
> > Engine Starts > > Idles low and rough > > bogs out when given gas > > afm clatters at times > > radiator fan that stays on till engine is cool never shuts off > > other radiator fan doesn't come on > > drove it around the block > > shuts off at stops > > have to gun it to get going
> > changed dme > > changed afm
> > what to change next?
> > All help appreciated
> > Rick
> check for air leak. Check timing before starting it again, slipped > belt will do this. most probable is a cracked J tube (the rubber > intake). Dirty injectors do this also.
> Only one fan runs normally -- it takes AC on to activate second fan.- Hide quoted text -
> - Show quoted text -
Bill,
Thanks for the quick reply,
I did not mention that I had replaced the J tube already.
I had busted the old one. I'll check installation of replacement.
Another forum said potentially replaced dme with wrong model dme.
> On Apr 28, 8:59 pm, bill noble <nowhere_rea...@n.com> wrote:
> > On 4/28/2011 4:06 PM, Rick wrote:
> > > 84 944 > > > Symptoms:
> > > Engine Starts > > > Idles low and rough > > > bogs out when given gas > > > afm clatters at times > > > radiator fan that stays on till engine is cool never shuts off > > > other radiator fan doesn't come on > > > drove it around the block > > > shuts off at stops > > > have to gun it to get going
> > > changed dme > > > changed afm
> > > what to change next?
> > > All help appreciated
> > > Rick
> > check for air leak. Check timing before starting it again, slipped > > belt will do this. most probable is a cracked J tube (the rubber > > intake). Dirty injectors do this also.
> > Only one fan runs normally -- it takes AC on to activate second fan.- Hide quoted text -
> > - Show quoted text -
> Bill,
> Thanks for the quick reply,
> I did not mention that I had replaced the J tube already.
> I had busted the old one. I'll check installation of replacement.
> Another forum said potentially replaced dme with wrong model dme.
> What are your thought on this?
> 896369 # on original
> 89 8892 000 # on replacement
> Thanks for the assistance
> Rick- Hide quoted text -
> - Show quoted text -
AFM PART NUMBER ORIGINAL AND REPLACEMENT 0 280 202 028
> Engine Starts > Idles low and rough > bogs out when given gas > afm clatters at times > radiator fan that stays on till engine is cool never shuts off > other radiator fan doesn't come on > drove it around the block > shuts off at stops > have to gun it to get going
> changed dme > changed afm
> what to change next?
> All help appreciated
> Rick
replace rad fan switch remove oxigen sensor and CO test tube, rev engine. revs freely? bad cat idle engine and spray brake clean over injector and intake manifold area, idle increases? vacuum leak from inj o-ring or manifold gaskets Try this and see what happ's
> On Apr 28, 8:59 pm, bill noble<nowhere_rea...@n.com> wrote: >> On 4/28/2011 4:06 PM, Rick wrote:
>>> 84 944 >>> Symptoms:
>>> Engine Starts >>> Idles low and rough >>> bogs out when given gas >>> afm clatters at times >>> radiator fan that stays on till engine is cool never shuts off >>> other radiator fan doesn't come on >>> drove it around the block >>> shuts off at stops >>> have to gun it to get going
>>> changed dme >>> changed afm
>>> what to change next?
>>> All help appreciated
>>> Rick
>> check for air leak. Check timing before starting it again, slipped >> belt will do this. most probable is a cracked J tube (the rubber >> intake). Dirty injectors do this also.
>> Only one fan runs normally -- it takes AC on to activate second fan.- Hide quoted text -
>> - Show quoted text -
> Bill,
> Thanks for the quick reply,
> I did not mention that I had replaced the J tube already.
> I had busted the old one. I'll check installation of replacement.
> Another forum said potentially replaced dme with wrong model dme.
> What are your thought on this?
> 896369 # on original
> 89 8892 000 # on replacement
> Thanks for the assistance
> Rick
download pet6, it's available on internet, that will let you check part numbers and will let you verify the DME is correct - later DME or S DME won't work The AFM is not the same for the early cars as for the later, so make sure you have the right one.
The suggestion to check CAT backpressure is a good idea too, but I don't think that's the problem
Check injectors and make sure they all squirt out the same amount of fuel - a stuck injector or two would make it not work right
