Sentra N14 rear seal - how to do?

[Me]

Tomorrow I'm going to either lift the engine or drop the transmission to
replace the rear crankshaft seal (GA15DE - for practical purposes,
almost the same as more common GA16DE).
I'm 99% sure it's the rear crank seal, but there's always a chance it
isn't. After giving it a good clean, there's a constant drip from the
drain hole next to the inspection plate on the bottom of the bellhousing.
I know I can get the engine out separate from the trans - there's enough
room to shift it left a few inches to clear from the trans (I've done it
before). The worst part IMO is dealing with A/C and PS pumps,
alternator etc - oh and it means removing only one axle, rather than both.
I just have a fear that if I drop the transmission, then I'll either do
the seal but miss seeing somewhere else where it's leaking engine oil,
or I'm going to be working with bad access and stuff up the new seal
installation.
So what would you do - drop the trans or lift the engine? I have a
workshop at home with a pit, a crane, stands etc.

[Striker]

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Sentra/
You should find the info here...
Striker

"Me" <us...@domain.invalid> wrote in message
news:hua29b$mj1$1...@news.albasani.net...

[Me]

On 5/06/2010 1:34 p.m., Striker wrote:
> http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Sentra/
> You should find the info here...
> Striker
>
>

Thanks - I have the FSM.
Engine is out - about 4 hours. The seal was leaking badly - as I
expected. There's a bit of seepage round the sump, so I'll reseal that
too. I damaged the rubber boot on the lower suspension arm ball joint,
but I think I can get a replacement boot. Apart from that no real problems.

[Me]

Actually after starting work on it this morning, it's really much better
to remove the sump anyway, as there are two studs on the seal retainer
that go through the sump lip. I don't know if it would even be possible
to lever off the retainer with the sump in place without risk of
cracking the alloy retainer, and even if this could be done, there would
be no way to get it back in place with a good placement of sealant
between retainer and the sump rim.
So, while dropping the trans might seem less hassle, by the time the
exhaust and sump is removed in situ, lifting the engine out might be the
better way, especially if you don't have a hoist.
The original seal was worn and very very hard (I don't know mileage of
the engine, but guess perhaps 120,000km). There's slight scoring on the
crank, but I'll leave it, as it seems to be scored well inside and away
from where the new seal lips sit. The factory seal was black compound,
both Nissan OEM replacement and non OEM seals are brown - they appear
identical, but Nissan price is about 4 times more.

[Me]

On 6/06/2010 12:47 p.m., Me wrote:
> On 5/06/2010 7:51 p.m., Me wrote:
>> On 5/06/2010 1:34 p.m., Striker wrote:
>>> http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Sentra/
>>> You should find the info here...
>>> Striker
>>>
>>>
>> Thanks - I have the FSM.

Browsing the FSM looking for torque settings, it says you can't
lift/drop AT trans/engine separately. Not true - I've done it twice.

>> Engine is out - about 4 hours. The seal was leaking badly - as I
>> expected. There's a bit of seepage round the sump, so I'll reseal that
>> too. I damaged the rubber boot on the lower suspension arm ball joint,
>> but I think I can get a replacement boot. Apart from that no real
>> problems.
> Actually after starting work on it this morning, it's really much better
> to remove the sump anyway, as there are two studs on the seal retainer
> that go through the sump lip. I don't know if it would even be possible
> to lever off the retainer with the sump in place without risk of
> cracking the alloy retainer, and even if this could be done, there would
> be no way to get it back in place with a good placement of sealant
> between retainer and the sump rim.
> So, while dropping the trans might seem less hassle, by the time the
> exhaust and sump is removed in situ, lifting the engine out might be the
> better way, especially if you don't have a hoist.
> The original seal was worn and very very hard (I don't know mileage of
> the engine, but guess perhaps 120,000km). There's slight scoring on the
> crank, but I'll leave it, as it seems to be scored well inside and away
> from where the new seal lips sit. The factory seal was black compound,
> both Nissan OEM replacement and non OEM seals are brown - they appear
> identical, but Nissan price is about 4 times more.
>

Job done - perhaps 9-10 hours total. Total parts cost about US$30. No
leaks now. Worst part of the job, placement of PS mounting bracket,
lower heater hose, and the rear engine mount can be a real PITA.
Otherwise just normal, methodical, and tedious.