Google Groups no longer supports new Usenet posts or subscriptions. Historical content remains viewable.
Dismiss

Engine Temperature Problem? 1999 Sentra 2.0

1 view
Skip to first unread message

DanielleOM

unread,
Jun 23, 2010, 3:46:57 PM6/23/10
to

Just wondering if I have a problem or not.

Normally I see my temperature gauge at approximately the 8 o'clock positon.

While driving at highway speed 65 mph this afternoon I saw the gauge move
just shy of the 9 o'clock position. I also noticed some preignition sounds
while accelerating.

I quickly opened the windows, turned the heater on the gauge quickly moved
back to the 8 o'clock position.

After getting a little warm myself I turned the AC back on and closely
watched the gauge. It did seem to stabilize at that position just shy of 9
o'clock.

I also noted the temperature gauge returned to the 8 o'clock postion when I
got of the highway and was moving at 35 mph. (with ac running)


Think there's anything to be concerned about? Memory must be going. Can't
remember where it stabilized at last summer.


Thanks

Danielle

E. Meyer

unread,
Jun 23, 2010, 5:02:36 PM6/23/10
to
On 6/23/10 2:46 PM, in article hvtoba$lp$1...@news.eternal-september.org,
"DanielleOM" <danie...@reply.to.group.com> wrote:

Its not a reason for concern if it moves a little but stays in the normal
temperature range. If it never moved before, you need to check the
radiator.

First thing in the morning before you first start the car (you don't want to
be doing this when the engine is hot), check that the fluid level in the
overflow tank is between the "min" & "max" level (there are marks on the
side of the tank). If not, add 50% mix of antifreeze & water to get it to
the max level. Then open the radiator cap and look in there. It should be
completely filled to the top, no air space. If its not, add 50% antifreeze
mix in there as well.

If the radiator was low, then you need to start paying attention to it to
see if it is losing coolant on a regular basis or was just a one time event.
Check it every morning for a couple of weeks. If it stabilizes after a few
days, then don't worry about it. If you keep having to add to either the
radiator or the overflow tank, then get it checked for leaks.

DanielleOM

unread,
Jun 23, 2010, 11:37:53 PM6/23/10
to

"E. Meyer" <epme...@msn.com> wrote in message
news:C847E09C.1C9D4%epme...@msn.com...


Thanks. I see radiator was flushed last year. Radiator was changed in
2005. Hopefully they don't fail every 5 years. Wonder if they really
designed it for the 2 litre engine.

Danielle

E. Meyer

unread,
Jun 25, 2010, 10:14:22 AM6/25/10
to
On 6/23/10 10:37 PM, in article hvuju1$2su$1...@news.eternal-september.org,
"DanielleOM" <danie...@reply.to.group.com> wrote:

There are other things besides the radiator that are getting old - hoses,
heater core, etc. If it is losing coolant, the whole cooling system would
need to be checked.

DanielleOM

unread,
Jul 5, 2010, 9:10:20 PM7/5/10
to


After 2 coolant flushes and a new thermostat, I am still having a problem.
With termperatures close to 100 degrees F today, I had to drive with AC off
and heater on to keep engine at normal termperature when driving at 65 mph.
I am inclined to think that the design of the radiator in Sentra SE with
SR20DE engine is barely enough to do the job and any deterioration leaves it
inadequate.


John Henderson

unread,
Jul 6, 2010, 5:00:37 PM7/6/10
to
DanielleOM wrote:

> After 2 coolant flushes and a new thermostat, I am still having a problem.
> With termperatures close to 100 degrees F today, I had to drive with AC off
> and heater on to keep engine at normal termperature when driving at 65 mph.
> I am inclined to think that the design of the radiator in Sentra SE with
> SR20DE engine is barely enough to do the job and any deterioration leaves it
> inadequate.

I'm sure radiator design capacity isn't your problem.

Did you bleed the air from the coolant passages in the engine
block using the air release plug?

Is the water pump actually pumping adequately?

John

Peter Hill

unread,
Jul 6, 2010, 5:17:55 PM7/6/10
to
On 6 Jul 2010 21:00:37 GMT, John Henderson <jhenRem...@talk21.com>
wrote:

Reduction in temperature from switching the heater to max heat and the
heater fan on indicates that the radiator is the problem.

Possible collapsed hose to/from rad.

Or the coolant hasn't been changed or it's been run on water and the
rad is now full of corrosion. Easy test is get engine warm, stop car,
stop engine then disconnect the fan. Then feel whole surface of rad,
it should be warm all over, any cold spots or a cold bottom tank show
it's not flowing water.

Once a Nissan overheats you need to replace the thermostat. It will
have taken a "set" and be stuck slightly open resulting in excessive
warm up time.
--
Peter Hill
Spamtrap reply domain as per NNTP-Posting-Host in header
Can of worms - what every fisherman wants.
Can of worms - what every PC owner gets!

DanielleOM

unread,
Jul 6, 2010, 7:56:29 PM7/6/10
to


Other than change a headlight lamp, I have not done any maintenance work on
this myself. I live in an apartment building away from family with garages.
Sears auto just flushed the radiator and they tell me they did it before
after changing the thermostat. It was overheating before I went in there
and it did it again after. I saw no real change.

Interesting question about the water pump. How can you tell if it's
working? I don't have gauge in my dashboard that measures engine coolant
flow. The car has 200,000 miles on it now and it has the original water
pump. I am not familiar with the water pump design. I have heard of
European cars where plastic parts were used in water pumps that gradually
deteriorate over time.

Starting to debate if I should repair or move on to another car. I still
like the way this one for the reasons that I bought it in the first place.


Danielle

John Henderson

unread,
Jul 7, 2010, 3:50:48 PM7/7/10
to
DanielleOM wrote:

> Other than change a headlight lamp, I have not done any maintenance work on
> this myself. I live in an apartment building away from family with garages.
> Sears auto just flushed the radiator and they tell me they did it before
> after changing the thermostat. It was overheating before I went in there
> and it did it again after. I saw no real change.
>
> Interesting question about the water pump. How can you tell if it's
> working? I don't have gauge in my dashboard that measures engine coolant
> flow. The car has 200,000 miles on it now and it has the original water
> pump. I am not familiar with the water pump design. I have heard of
> European cars where plastic parts were used in water pumps that gradually
> deteriorate over time.

Not having experienced a water pump failure for myself, I can't
suggest specific symptoms on your engine.

A friend had poor cooling system performance, along with very
slow warm-up (not a Nissan), and I diagnosed thermostat
failure. The garage he got to replace it claimed that the
thermostat failed because the water pump had failed. With both
replaced, the cooling system performs brilliantly.

I agree with Peter that a blocked radiator is likely in your
case, but wanted to alert you to other possible causes.

> Starting to debate if I should repair or move on to another car. I still
> like the way this one for the reasons that I bought it in the first place.

Maybe get an opinion from a cooling system specialist if Sears
can't diagnose the underlying cause quickly and accurately. A
new water pump or a replacement radiator shouldn't be overly
expensive. That should be the end of your cooling system woes.

John

0 new messages