'98 Frontier cranks but won't start.
Michael
Spark test (took out one spark plug and put it on a metal surface)
gave no spark on cranking.
Transistor appears to be infinite resistance, is that bad? Haynes
said if it's shorted it's bad. Well it's not shorted, that I could
tell...
Where is the ignition resistor exactly? Couldn't find it from the
drawing in the Haynes manual.
Anyone have this problem? Or insights?
Thanks,
Michael
al
First thing to look at is the distributor cap and rotor. Even if both
seem OK it would be worth taking a fine grit emery paper to all the
distributor cap contacts as well as the rotor. Shining a light bulb
inside the distributor cap in a dark room can sometimes locate a
hairline crack in the cap. Of course, you'll want to clean both ends
of the central high tension wire too. Good luck. Al
Michael
Sounds good but I'm trying to understand how any dirt on the contacts
could cause problems. They don't touch, right? Something about a
Hall effect sensor?
Is there a practical way I could tap into the central high tension
wire to see if there's a high voltage present?
Thanks,
Michael
al
>
> - Show quoted text -
It's not dirt that causes loss of conductivity between the distributor
cap terminals and the rotor surface. It is corrosion that is induced
by the 25000-50000 volts that passes between those surfaces. After a
few tens of thousands of miles the distributor cap terminals take on a
pale blistered look that can impede conductivity. Filing/sanding away
that blistered surface coating and restoring bright metal will restore
reliable contact. The inductive ignition testers (i.e. the pencil
type which are placed very close to the high tension wire and
illuminate a light when high voltage passes through the wire) will
often light/blink even when applied to the central high tension wire
while just cranking the engine. Try it on a car that's working to
determine if the tester you have is sensitive enough to detect high
voltage in the wire while cranking. Good luck. Al
Michael
Ah ok. Where do you get the inductive type of ignition testers?
Thanks,
Michael
al
I'd expect that simple ignition testers would be available in most
auto parts stores. Some are designed to be inserted in the wire to
the spark plug. One end is a short length of spark plug wire that
connects to the spark plug and the car's spark plug wire connects to
the other end of the tester. A light flashes if voltage is detected
while the engine is running. Another type is the inductive style
which is cigar shaped and is placed very close to a high tension
ignition wire and lights an internal light if it detects voltage.
They can be useful diagnostic tools. Good luck. Al
Michael
> I'd expect that simple ignition testers would be available in most
> auto parts stores. Some are designed to be inserted in the wire to
> the spark plug. One end is a short length of spark plug wire that
> connects to the spark plug and the car's spark plug wire connects to
> the other end of the tester. A light flashes if voltage is detected
> while the engine is running. Another type is the inductive style
> which is cigar shaped and is placed very close to a high tension
> ignition wire and lights an internal light if it detects voltage.
> They can be useful diagnostic tools. Good luck. Al
Ok thanks Al!
Michael
Striker
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/frontier/1998/
Striker
"Michael" <mrda...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:fb081fe9-c5a4-43a7...@m7g2000prd.googlegroups.com...
Michael
> Forget the Hayes Manual......
>
> http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/frontier/1998/
>
> Striker
>
>
> news:fb081fe9-c5a4-43a7...@m7g2000prd.googlegroups.com...
>
> > Coil primary and secondary resistances are good.
>
> > Spark test (took out one spark plug and put it on a metal surface)
> > gave no spark on cranking.
>
> > Transistor appears to be infinite resistance, is that bad? Haynes
> > said if it's shorted it's bad. Well it's not shorted, that I could
> > tell...
>
> > Where is the ignition resistor exactly? Couldn't find it from the
> > drawing in the Haynes manual.
>
> > Anyone have this problem? Or insights?
>
> > Thanks,
>
> > Michael
Wow thanks!
Michael
Michael
I did your emery board trick... lots of white stuff flaked off, but
still no go.
I got an ignition tester from AutoZone ($7). Crude thing, pretty much
just an adjustable screw where you're supposed to look for a spark.
(!) I thought there was a removable central high voltage wire outside
but it's under the cap, where a spring is. Removed the distributor
cap, removed the spring, placed the ignition tester in position,
strung an alligator-clip wire to ground, cranked dad's truck. Dad
said no spark. Darn. Well I guess that $7 saved me from buying a new
cap and rotor...
Oh yeah I got some OBD2 codes now too: P0505, P1490, P0446, P1105.
They all seem to be pointing to a computer failure of some sort. I
sure hope it doesn't come to that. I'll try and test for a signal to
the distributor using Striker's links. Otherwise this might be a job
for a pro...
Thanks y'all,
Michael
NissTech
emissions system (fuel vapor recovery) ,chances are your computer is fine
Check all the fuses first, chances are the distributor took a dump.
"Michael" <mrda...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:f69302e6-fd6c-4239...@y32g2000prd.googlegroups.com...
Michael
> Most of the codes you listed pertain to a problem with the evaporative
> emissions system (fuel vapor recovery) ,chances are your computer is fine
>
> Check all the fuses first, chances are the distributor took a dump.
>
Yes, dad checked all the fuses. We were wondering if the computer is
programmed to shut down the truck if codes remain for a long time
without being addressed (prior to this, months back, dad had a bad
fuel/air mix code which I thought pertained to the O2 sensor... I
finally got around to replacing that, but forgot to erase the code...)
Backprobing the 200 mV signal to the distributor, we couldn't find a
signal (that I could detect, at least). I used a multimeter, then a
tape recorder (backprobe wire connected to the Microphone Input) to
listen for ticks... nothing...
Haynes manual said to check the camshaft position sensor (part of the
distributor I suppose) but I never removed a distributor nor set the
engine to Top Dead Center before...
Thanks,
Michael
E. Meyer
On 11/2/09 10:54 AM, in article
de36df1d-b031-49a3...@b36g2000prf.googlegroups.com, "Michael"
<mrda...@gmail.com> wrote:
> On Nov 1, 6:23�pm, "NissTech" <mikeh...@msn.com> wrote:
>> Most of the codes you listed pertain to a problem with the evaporative
>> emissions system (fuel vapor recovery) ,chances are your computer is fine
>>
>> Check all the fuses first, chances are the distributor took a dump.
>>
>
>
> Yes, dad checked all the fuses. We were wondering if the computer is
> programmed to shut down the truck if codes remain for a long time
> without being addressed
No.
> (prior to this, months back, dad had a bad
> fuel/air mix code which I thought pertained to the O2 sensor... I
> finally got around to replacing that, but forgot to erase the code...)
>
If the problem has been corrected, the code goes away by itself after a
preset number of drives (about 80).
> Backprobing the 200 mV signal to the distributor, we couldn't find a
> signal (that I could detect, at least). I used a multimeter, then a
> tape recorder (backprobe wire connected to the Microphone Input) to
> listen for ticks... nothing...
>
> Haynes manual said to check the camshaft position sensor (part of the
> distributor I suppose) but I never removed a distributor nor set the
> engine to Top Dead Center before...
I think your main problem is that you are using the wrong manual. Get a
real Nissan Factory Service Manual & things will get a lot clearer.
This may not be the best link, but its free:
http://car-topbrand.blogspot.com/2009/08/1998-nissan-frontier-factory-servic
e.html
>
> Thanks,
>
> Michael
Winston
> Forget the Hayes Manual......
>
> http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/frontier/1998/
>
> Striker
Thanks, Striker!
--Winston