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MGTD

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keepitrunning

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Jan 29, 2008, 1:25:50 AM1/29/08
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I finished an MGTD kit car that another party had started and stalled out
on. It was powered with a ford mustang engine and used pinto wheels and
axles. I enjoyed building it and drove it for several years. Last year I
sold it to a Dr in Florida.

Recently I have been looking for another project. Last week I found a 1951
MGTD, a real one, it is almost complete but completely disassembled. It
came with a Datsun b210 engine and transmission. I slid the engine and
transmission in today and realized that the steering shaft would need to go
directly through the exhaust manifold. It looks like this might not be a
workable engine.

There are no brakes on the car and I am interested in converting it to disc
if I could do it with out spending a fortune.

Anyone on the list have any ideas comments?
Thanks
Gary


Bob P

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Jan 30, 2008, 8:27:18 AM1/30/08
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A couple of U-joints in the steering column (or a custom header) will
solve the manifold interference problem.

I'm pretty sure that MGB trunions and brakes can be adapted to the TD.

keepitrunning

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Jan 30, 2008, 11:14:47 AM1/30/08
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Bob P said:
> A couple of U-joints in the steering column (or a custom header) will
> solve the manifold interference problem.
>
> I'm pretty sure that MGB trunions and brakes can be adapted to the TD.

I found the U-joints on the Speedway site. I noticed last night that there
is some sheetmetal around the exhaust, I may remove that and see it gives me
any clearance.

There are several salvage yards around Sacramento, I think I will scout for
MGB parts, that was a good suggestion.

Thanks
Gary


Bob P

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Jan 31, 2008, 8:14:31 AM1/31/08
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You might visit an MG forum or newsgroup to confirm my supposition...

keepitrunning

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Jan 31, 2008, 12:24:05 PM1/31/08
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I have signed up for a couple and have been reading the archives and using
MGB parts seems what a lot of folks are doing. I have not been able to find
anything on using the b210 engine. There are some folks that have used the
b210 transmission.

You wouldn't happen to have an idea on how to remove the front hubs? I
removed the nuts and tried using a hammer on the bolt (with the nut screwed
loosely on). I went to harbor freight looking for a large puller, bought
one but it is too small.

Bob P

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Jan 31, 2008, 1:53:22 PM1/31/08
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Sorry. It's been about 40 years since I worked on any MG...

There are manuals available, I suspect.

keepitrunning

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Feb 2, 2008, 12:17:07 AM2/2/08
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Some progress, I have installed the steering column and engine, the engine
is about 1 1/2 inches to the right of center line to allow clearance with
the steering column. So far I have not been able to see any reason that
this won't work. I plan to use an electric fan at this point. Anyone have
any thoughts or experience to share?
Gary

Bob P

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Feb 2, 2008, 10:11:36 AM2/2/08
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No reason why the offset should present a problem as long as the whole
engine/trans assembly is shifted over. You want to keep the crankshaft
axis parallel (but not coincident) to the axis of the pinion of the
differential, so some adjustment of the angle of the rear end may be
required.

keepitrunning

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Feb 14, 2008, 12:31:06 AM2/14/08
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> There are no brakes on the car and I am interested in converting it to
> disc if I could do it with out spending a fortune.

I went to the pick n pull and removed rear brakes from a 1991 Camry. I had
to reduce the diameter of the backing plate and re-drill the top two holes
and ream out one of the others to fit them to the front of the MGTD. The
back required even further modification. I was able to use the Toyota's
parking brake cables and attach them to the MG's lever. I also installed a
Japanese (unknown make) master cylinder, replaced all of the brake lines. I
now have brakes.
Gary


keepitrunning

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Mar 22, 2008, 8:29:27 PM3/22/08
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I figured out the master cylinder was a clutch master cylinder. It seems to
be working ok for the brakes. Two came with the project, I installed the
second one for the clutch. I put new kits in both of them. I bought a
slave cylinder and now the clutch seems to be working.

I had a shop make me a drive shaft and I now have the engine mounted. I
installed the radiator, found hoses that work. I filled it with water, the
first time had a couple of open ports. I got them all closed off and now it
is holding water.

I cranked it long enough to get the oil pressure to come up. The coil does
not seem to be producing spark. I ordered a new coil and spark plug wires.
Maybe next week I will be able to hear the engine make noise.

If the engine seems to be usable, I will spend the big bucks to have a
custom exhaust header made.

I ordered a bolt set to allow me to install the finders and running boards.

"keepitrunning" <keepitru...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
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peterlonz

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Mar 29, 2008, 7:40:06 PM3/29/08
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The "TD" of course has wire wheels which ordinarily would not see the higher
brakiing forces imposed by disc brakes. This is something that I would be
mindful of & it definitely means you cannot consider chrome plate on the
wires. The TD is a vety nice car & great project, select an engine with
similar dimensions to the original & you should be OK. Good Luck.
Pete


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keepitrunning

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Mar 30, 2008, 9:24:40 PM3/30/08
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Pete, thanks for the response. Not all TDs had wire wheels, some like this
one came with metal rims. I modified the backing plates using rear brakes
from a 1991 Honda Accord. The brakes look like they will work fine. I
haven't gotten it running yet so no road test.

I have been told that the engine that I have will work, however I will need
to have a custom exhaust header fabricated. I am continuing with that idea.
I have the engine and transmission mounted and had a custom drive shaft
manufactured. I have installed the radiator and found hoses that allow the
b210 to hook up to the TD radiator. No water leaking.

I had to plug the oil pressure tap because it was too close to the frame. I
would like to figure out another place to tap for oil pressure. I did prove
that there is oil pressure.

If the engine runs and seems like it will be a decent engine, I will haul
the project to a muffler shop that will fabricate the header.

I ordered a bolt set and the beading that go between the fenders and the
body. I think I will reassemble the body. I cleaned up the floor board and
have them laying in place.

There is plenty of hobby left in this project.
Gary

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