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Those darn rusted screws!
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cameo
Oct 1, 2012, 11:35:08 PM10/1/12
to
A while back there was a thread here about the best penetrating rust
dissolvers but I can't find it anymore. Could somebody remind me what
the concensus was as to the product?
In my state we have to install new plates periodically and this time
I cannot unscrew the bottom two screws holding the front license plate.
They are so rusted in the thread that I am afraid I might ruin the slot
on the head of the screws with my flat screwdriver. I tried a product
recommended at a local auto part store, called PB Blaster, but that did
not help after a couple hours of soaking. Is there something better than
that out there?
dissolvers but I can't find it anymore. Could somebody remind me what
the concensus was as to the product?
In my state we have to install new plates periodically and this time
I cannot unscrew the bottom two screws holding the front license plate.
They are so rusted in the thread that I am afraid I might ruin the slot
on the head of the screws with my flat screwdriver. I tried a product
recommended at a local auto part store, called PB Blaster, but that did
not help after a couple hours of soaking. Is there something better than
that out there?
Erik
Oct 2, 2012, 3:17:07 AM10/2/12
to
In article <k4dn85$5ph$1...@dont-email.me>, cameo <ca...@unreal.invalid>
wrote:
Yes, there is better stuff... 'Kroil' is probably the best, but hard to
find, and expensive.
http://www.kanolabs.com/
Probably it's only real advantage over PB Blaster is that it works a bit faster.
Your PB Blaster is a great product. Keep the bolts wet with it for a
few days, and I bet they come loose. If push comes to shove, you may
have to drill them out, or bust them off; as with Vise Grip's or the
like. Heating with the torch may also help if no plastic is in the area.
Auto parts stores carry nylon bolts & nuts just for license plate use
that will always be easy to take apart. If you put them back on with
steel/metal bolts, put some antiseize compound on the threads. (A thin
coat of grease on the threads would probably be fine for this
application.)
Erik
wrote:
find, and expensive.
http://www.kanolabs.com/
Probably it's only real advantage over PB Blaster is that it works a bit faster.
Your PB Blaster is a great product. Keep the bolts wet with it for a
few days, and I bet they come loose. If push comes to shove, you may
have to drill them out, or bust them off; as with Vise Grip's or the
like. Heating with the torch may also help if no plastic is in the area.
Auto parts stores carry nylon bolts & nuts just for license plate use
that will always be easy to take apart. If you put them back on with
steel/metal bolts, put some antiseize compound on the threads. (A thin
coat of grease on the threads would probably be fine for this
application.)
Erik
Al Moodie
Oct 2, 2012, 8:06:29 AM10/2/12
to
On Tue, 02 Oct 2012 00:17:07 -0700, Erik <sp...@this.com> wrote:
>
>Auto parts stores carry nylon bolts & nuts just for license plate use
>that will always be easy to take apart.
Auto stores also sell stainless steel bolts for license plates. Have
>
>Auto parts stores carry nylon bolts & nuts just for license plate use
>that will always be easy to take apart.
used them for years and can recommend them
It always amazes me when I am following some $50,000 and up quality
car and you see rusted bolts in plates with rust stains streaming down
the plates.
Al.
tww1491
Oct 2, 2012, 8:14:20 AM10/2/12
to
The best I have found is PB Blaster manufactured by B'Laster Corp in
Cleveland OH. You can find it at OReillys.
"cameo" wrote in message news:k4dn85$5ph$1...@dont-email.me...
Cleveland OH. You can find it at OReillys.
"cameo" wrote in message news:k4dn85$5ph$1...@dont-email.me...
Tegger
Oct 2, 2012, 8:36:47 AM10/2/12
to
cameo <ca...@unreal.invalid> wrote in news:k4dn85$5ph$1...@dont-email.me:
Do you have access to the rear of the screws?
If so, and if there's no plastic too close by, then heat is your answer.
Heat in the form of a propane torch.
--
Tegger
If so, and if there's no plastic too close by, then heat is your answer.
Heat in the form of a propane torch.
--
Tegger
Douglas C. Neidermeyer
Oct 2, 2012, 9:41:12 AM10/2/12
to
they're readily available in auto or hardware stores
--
You can observe a lot just by watching.
---Yogi Berra
cameo
Oct 2, 2012, 7:45:38 PM10/2/12
to
You ought to have read my whole post where I mentioned PB blaster.
cameo
Oct 2, 2012, 8:00:54 PM10/2/12
to
On 10/2/2012 5:36 AM, Tegger wrote:
> Do you have access to the rear of the screws?
>
> If so, and if there's no plastic too close by, then heat is your answer.
> Heat in the form of a propane torch.
Well, I've figured out how to remove the plate with its holder frame
> Do you have access to the rear of the screws?
>
> If so, and if there's no plastic too close by, then heat is your answer.
> Heat in the form of a propane torch.
from the front bumper and I left the screws soaked thoroughly overnight,
but the screws were still impossible to unscrew this morning. Because I
needed to have the new plates on already, I decided to cut off the
screws from the back of the license plate with one of those oscillating
multi-function power tools which left only about two threads left in the
holding clip. After that I was able to unscrew the remaining part of the
screw.
Since those clips are attached to the plastic plate frame, heating it
would have been out of question. And if we are talking about plastic, I
wanted to steer away from those plastic license plate screws because
they make it easier for potential plate tiefs to steal. So perhaps I'll
look instead for galvanized or stainless steel screws. What do you think
about that?
cameo
Oct 2, 2012, 8:06:07 PM10/2/12
to
On 10/2/2012 12:17 AM, Erik wrote:
> Yes, there is better stuff... 'Kroil' is probably the best, but hard to
> find, and expensive.
>
> http://www.kanolabs.com/
>
> Probably it's only real advantage over PB Blaster is that it works a bit faster.
Thanks for that tip, Erik. Is it as stinky as the PB Blaster? Even
> Yes, there is better stuff... 'Kroil' is probably the best, but hard to
> find, and expensive.
>
> http://www.kanolabs.com/
>
> Probably it's only real advantage over PB Blaster is that it works a bit faster.
though I worked with it in the attached garage, its smell penetrated my
whole house. Might take a few days to vent it all out. That includes my
clothing. :-(
> Your PB Blaster is a great product. Keep the bolts wet with it for a
> few days, and I bet they come loose. If push comes to shove, you may
> have to drill them out, or bust them off; as with Vise Grip's or the
> like. Heating with the torch may also help if no plastic is in the area.
>
> Auto parts stores carry nylon bolts & nuts just for license plate use
> that will always be easy to take apart. If you put them back on with
> steel/metal bolts, put some antiseize compound on the threads. (A thin
> coat of grease on the threads would probably be fine for this
> application.)
jim beam
Oct 2, 2012, 8:56:03 PM10/2/12
to
stainless or anything else is just as easy to remove as rust-free
plastic. you may as well use what's cheap and guaranteed not to cause
problems down the road, and plastic does that job just fine.
and in your case, because you've now used that "blaster" stuff, you
/will/ have an accelerated corrosion problem. the chemicals that eat
through the rust continue working after you're done and seed a whole new
wave of much more aggressive corrosion afterwards. plastic might help
you avoid the worst effects if you need to replace the plates again.
--
fact check required
cameo
Oct 2, 2012, 10:34:33 PM10/2/12
to
On 10/2/2012 5:56 PM, jim beam wrote:
>
> completely pointless. if they want to steal your plates, rust-free
> stainless or anything else is just as easy to remove as rust-free
> plastic. you may as well use what's cheap and guaranteed not to cause
> problems down the road, and plastic does that job just fine.
>
> and in your case, because you've now used that "blaster" stuff, you
> /will/ have an accelerated corrosion problem. the chemicals that eat
> through the rust continue working after you're done and seed a whole new
> wave of much more aggressive corrosion afterwards. plastic might help
> you avoid the worst effects if you need to replace the plates again.
Actually, that blaster fluid could only damage the metal clips with the
>
> completely pointless. if they want to steal your plates, rust-free
> stainless or anything else is just as easy to remove as rust-free
> plastic. you may as well use what's cheap and guaranteed not to cause
> problems down the road, and plastic does that job just fine.
>
> and in your case, because you've now used that "blaster" stuff, you
> /will/ have an accelerated corrosion problem. the chemicals that eat
> through the rust continue working after you're done and seed a whole new
> wave of much more aggressive corrosion afterwards. plastic might help
> you avoid the worst effects if you need to replace the plates again.
thread inside them as the surrounding area is all plastic. I replaced those
clips with new ones without any blaster stuff on them.
You might be right about the plastic screws but what I remember about
them is that their thread count is lower than the one in the metal clip
and their diameter might also be different. So that would alao make it a
no-go. But I'll take another look, just in case.
Erik
Oct 2, 2012, 11:23:17 PM10/2/12
to
In article <k4fvc2$j17$1...@dont-email.me>, cameo <ca...@unreal.invalid>
wrote:
If you don't care for the smell of PB Blaster, Kroil isn't for you. It
works fantastic, but the smell is something else.
I'd go for stainless or brass if using metal, but don't forget a light
coat of anti-seize compound worked into the threads. It doesn't take
much, and you don't want a mess. Some stainless alloys are notorious
about seizing.
Also note that plate thieves won't care about what material you choose,
but those fasteners with one way heads (in or around the license plate
frame section of parts stores) 'might' marginally slow down the rankest
amateurs... but don't count on it.
Erik
wrote:
works fantastic, but the smell is something else.
I'd go for stainless or brass if using metal, but don't forget a light
coat of anti-seize compound worked into the threads. It doesn't take
much, and you don't want a mess. Some stainless alloys are notorious
about seizing.
Also note that plate thieves won't care about what material you choose,
but those fasteners with one way heads (in or around the license plate
frame section of parts stores) 'might' marginally slow down the rankest
amateurs... but don't count on it.
Erik
jim beam
Oct 3, 2012, 12:17:59 AM10/3/12
to
On 10/02/2012 07:34 PM, cameo wrote:
> On 10/2/2012 5:56 PM, jim beam wrote:
>>
>> completely pointless. if they want to steal your plates, rust-free
>> stainless or anything else is just as easy to remove as rust-free
>> plastic. you may as well use what's cheap and guaranteed not to cause
>> problems down the road, and plastic does that job just fine.
>>
>> and in your case, because you've now used that "blaster" stuff, you
>> /will/ have an accelerated corrosion problem. the chemicals that eat
>> through the rust continue working after you're done and seed a whole new
>> wave of much more aggressive corrosion afterwards. plastic might help
>> you avoid the worst effects if you need to replace the plates again.
>
> Actually, that blaster fluid could only damage the metal clips with the
> thread inside them as the surrounding area is all plastic. I replaced those
> clips with new ones without any blaster stuff on them.
ok, good.
> On 10/2/2012 5:56 PM, jim beam wrote:
>>
>> completely pointless. if they want to steal your plates, rust-free
>> stainless or anything else is just as easy to remove as rust-free
>> plastic. you may as well use what's cheap and guaranteed not to cause
>> problems down the road, and plastic does that job just fine.
>>
>> and in your case, because you've now used that "blaster" stuff, you
>> /will/ have an accelerated corrosion problem. the chemicals that eat
>> through the rust continue working after you're done and seed a whole new
>> wave of much more aggressive corrosion afterwards. plastic might help
>> you avoid the worst effects if you need to replace the plates again.
>
> Actually, that blaster fluid could only damage the metal clips with the
> thread inside them as the surrounding area is all plastic. I replaced those
> clips with new ones without any blaster stuff on them.
>
> You might be right about the plastic screws but what I remember about
> them is that their thread count is lower than the one in the metal clip
> and their diameter might also be different. So that would alao make it a
> no-go. But I'll take another look, just in case.
plastic screws, if you want to go there, are fine. there's no
structural load to bear, and they don't need to be tight. the only
argument for metal is front plates on bumpers that get continually
nudged up against other cars like in cities.
--
fact check required
cameo
Oct 3, 2012, 4:38:58 AM10/3/12
to
On 10/2/2012 8:23 PM, Erik wrote:
> If you don't care for the smell of PB Blaster, Kroil isn't for you. It
> works fantastic, but the smell is something else.
>
> I'd go for stainless or brass if using metal, but don't forget a light
> coat of anti-seize compound worked into the threads. It doesn't take
> much, and you don't want a mess. Some stainless alloys are notorious
> about seizing.
>
> Also note that plate thieves won't care about what material you choose,
> but those fasteners with one way heads (in or around the license plate
> frame section of parts stores) 'might' marginally slow down the rankest
> amateurs... but don't count on it.
I know. It's the same thing with car alarms. I'm just hoping that would
> If you don't care for the smell of PB Blaster, Kroil isn't for you. It
> works fantastic, but the smell is something else.
>
> I'd go for stainless or brass if using metal, but don't forget a light
> coat of anti-seize compound worked into the threads. It doesn't take
> much, and you don't want a mess. Some stainless alloys are notorious
> about seizing.
>
> Also note that plate thieves won't care about what material you choose,
> but those fasteners with one way heads (in or around the license plate
> frame section of parts stores) 'might' marginally slow down the rankest
> amateurs... but don't count on it.
be tieves are more likely to take the path of least resistance if they
dont't have a specific target in mind.
Tegger
Oct 3, 2012, 8:52:48 AM10/3/12
to
cameo <ca...@unreal.invalid> wrote in news:k4fv29$h7j$1...@dont-email.me:
> galvanized or stainless steel screws. What do you think
> about that?
>
Stainless steel is the only metal that should ever be used for license-
plate fasteners.
Galvanized is no good: eventually the coating wears out and they rust
anyway.
--
Tegger
> galvanized or stainless steel screws. What do you think
> about that?
>
plate fasteners.
Galvanized is no good: eventually the coating wears out and they rust
anyway.
--
Tegger
Tegger
Oct 3, 2012, 8:53:44 AM10/3/12
to
Erik <sp...@this.com> wrote in
news:spam-15E50B.2...@news.dslextreme.com:
sn't for you.
> It works fantastic, but the smell is something else.
>
> I'd go for stainless or brass if using metal,
Never brass!!! Brass corrodes. Stainless steel only.
--
Tegger
news:spam-15E50B.2...@news.dslextreme.com:
sn't for you.
> It works fantastic, but the smell is something else.
>
> I'd go for stainless or brass if using metal,
--
Tegger
man behind the curtain
Oct 3, 2012, 11:23:16 AM10/3/12
to
In article <k4eqtm$ihp$1...@news.albasani.net>,
Generally ,If you want a bolt/nut to never come off, put a drop of
battery acid on the threads.
If you want to loosen an old bolt. put some old motor oil on it way
before you intend to apply the wrench. Let the vibrations of the road
work it in. hint; keep it off the rubber parts.
and if you are assembling something, a little Never seize compound will
prevent rust on the threads. Nice for spark plugs in aluminum heads.
and ;
Good Luck!
--
Karma ; what a concept!
battery acid on the threads.
If you want to loosen an old bolt. put some old motor oil on it way
before you intend to apply the wrench. Let the vibrations of the road
work it in. hint; keep it off the rubber parts.
and if you are assembling something, a little Never seize compound will
prevent rust on the threads. Nice for spark plugs in aluminum heads.
and ;
Good Luck!
--
Karma ; what a concept!
cameo
Oct 3, 2012, 2:41:00 PM10/3/12
to
On 10/2/2012 9:17 PM, jim beam wrote:
> if they're being screwed into entirely new material, it's academic. but
> plastic screws, if you want to go there, are fine. there's no
> structural load to bear, and they don't need to be tight. the only
> argument for metal is front plates on bumpers that get continually
> nudged up against other cars like in cities.
Good point. BTW, as to your earlier warning:
> if they're being screwed into entirely new material, it's academic. but
> plastic screws, if you want to go there, are fine. there's no
> structural load to bear, and they don't need to be tight. the only
> argument for metal is front plates on bumpers that get continually
> nudged up against other cars like in cities.
> because you've now used that "blaster" stuff, you
> /will/ have an accelerated corrosion problem. the chemicals that eat
> through the rust continue working after you're done and seed a whole
> new wave of much more aggressive corrosion afterwards."
"... PB also displaces moisture, and DOES NOT EVAPORATE. It remains on
the surface as a LUBRICANT and RUST INHIBITOR."
That seems to contradict your warning, doesn't it?
Erik
Oct 3, 2012, 5:20:36 PM10/3/12
to
In article <k4i0mf$jga$1...@dont-email.me>, cameo <ca...@unreal.invalid>
wrote:
It's an extremely light oil/solvent mixture thats remarkably good at
penetrating rust and similar spooge. It will not harm metals.
It 'might' do a number on some paints and plastics. As always, use good
judgment & common sense.
Erik
wrote:
penetrating rust and similar spooge. It will not harm metals.
It 'might' do a number on some paints and plastics. As always, use good
judgment & common sense.
Erik
cameo
Oct 3, 2012, 6:44:27 PM10/3/12
to
On 10/3/2012 2:20 PM, Erik wrote:
>
> It's an extremely light oil/solvent mixture thats remarkably good at
> penetrating rust and similar spooge.
That lightness might explain its persistent smell even days after using
>
> It's an extremely light oil/solvent mixture thats remarkably good at
> penetrating rust and similar spooge.
it. In a lot of ways it is like WD-40.
> It will not harm metals.
> It 'might' do a number on some paints and plastics. As always, use good
> judgment & common sense.
jim beam
Oct 3, 2012, 8:20:03 PM10/3/12
to
On 10/03/2012 05:52 AM, Tegger wrote:
> cameo<ca...@unreal.invalid> wrote in news:k4fv29$h7j$1...@dont-email.me:
>
>> galvanized or stainless steel screws. What do you think
>> about that?
>>
>
>
>
> Stainless steel is the only metal that should ever be used for license-
> plate fasteners.
how are license plate fasteners any different to fender bolts? or
> cameo<ca...@unreal.invalid> wrote in news:k4fv29$h7j$1...@dont-email.me:
>
>> galvanized or stainless steel screws. What do you think
>> about that?
>>
>
>
>
> Stainless steel is the only metal that should ever be used for license-
> plate fasteners.
electrical ground bolts? or headlight bolts? shouldn't the body panels
be stainless too?
>
> Galvanized is no good: eventually the coating wears out and they rust
> anyway.
--
fact check required
jim beam
Oct 3, 2012, 8:29:49 PM10/3/12
to
or accurate if nobody's taken the time and effort to officially contest
it.
you can test yourself easily enough. i noticed this problem when i used
it on a half shaft locknut and left it standing for a couple of months.
the area sprayed, with the runoff onto the brake disk, was rusted to
blazes. the rest of the disk/hub was the same as it had been before.
other "mistaken" labeling examples are out there. google "simple green"
and "stress corrosion cracking", especially with regard to bike chain.
then compare that with their label claims.
--
fact check required
jim beam
Oct 3, 2012, 8:31:03 PM10/3/12
to
even marine grades are not immune.
but the real question is, what the FUCK is the point in using stainless
bolts when everything you're bolting /to/ is going to rust? your car's
not stainless so get real and just use rust inhibitor so you protect
what you're screwing /into/, not just a stupid bolt.
--
fact check required
Tegger
Oct 3, 2012, 8:34:02 PM10/3/12
to
cameo <ca...@unreal.invalid> wrote in news:k4ieuu$el9$1...@dont-email.me:
> On 10/3/2012 2:20 PM, Erik wrote:
>>
>> It's an extremely light oil/solvent mixture thats remarkably good at
>> penetrating rust and similar spooge.
>
> That lightness might explain its persistent smell even days after using
> it. In a lot of ways it is like WD-40.
>
>> It will not harm metals.
>
> Well, that claim might be contested by Jim.
It will not harm metals. In fact, such very-light oils are used as rust
/preventives/, at which job they excel. Think Carwell.
>
>> It 'might' do a number on some paints and plastics. As always, use good
>> judgment & common sense.
>
> Thanks.
>
Such oils are often readily taken-up by plastics, which causes them to
swell, distort, and soften. Factory paints are not affected. Aftermarket
paints may or may not be softened or dissolved by oils.
--
Tegger
> On 10/3/2012 2:20 PM, Erik wrote:
>>
>> It's an extremely light oil/solvent mixture thats remarkably good at
>> penetrating rust and similar spooge.
>
> That lightness might explain its persistent smell even days after using
> it. In a lot of ways it is like WD-40.
>
>> It will not harm metals.
>
> Well, that claim might be contested by Jim.
/preventives/, at which job they excel. Think Carwell.
>
>> It 'might' do a number on some paints and plastics. As always, use good
>> judgment & common sense.
>
> Thanks.
>
swell, distort, and soften. Factory paints are not affected. Aftermarket
paints may or may not be softened or dissolved by oils.
--
Tegger
cameo
Oct 4, 2012, 1:37:50 AM10/4/12
to
On 10/3/2012 8:23 AM, man behind the curtain wrote:
> and if you are assembling something, a little Never seize compound will
> prevent rust on the threads. Nice for spark plugs in aluminum heads.
> and ;
> Good Luck!
Are you talking about Bostik's Never-Seez brand?
> and if you are assembling something, a little Never seize compound will
> prevent rust on the threads. Nice for spark plugs in aluminum heads.
> and ;
> Good Luck!
jim beam
Oct 4, 2012, 3:25:55 AM10/4/12
to
On 10/03/2012 05:34 PM, Tegger wrote:
> cameo<ca...@unreal.invalid> wrote in news:k4ieuu$el9$1...@dont-email.me:
>
>> On 10/3/2012 2:20 PM, Erik wrote:
>>>
>>> It's an extremely light oil/solvent mixture thats remarkably good at
>>> penetrating rust and similar spooge.
>>
>> That lightness might explain its persistent smell even days after using
>> it. In a lot of ways it is like WD-40.
>>
>>> It will not harm metals.
>>
>> Well, that claim might be contested by Jim.
>
>
>
> It will not harm metals. In fact, such very-light oils are used as rust
> /preventives/, at which job they excel. Think Carwell.
as pointed out by someone else, this blaster stuff is not just oil, it
> cameo<ca...@unreal.invalid> wrote in news:k4ieuu$el9$1...@dont-email.me:
>
>> On 10/3/2012 2:20 PM, Erik wrote:
>>>
>>> It's an extremely light oil/solvent mixture thats remarkably good at
>>> penetrating rust and similar spooge.
>>
>> That lightness might explain its persistent smell even days after using
>> it. In a lot of ways it is like WD-40.
>>
>>> It will not harm metals.
>>
>> Well, that claim might be contested by Jim.
>
>
>
> It will not harm metals. In fact, such very-light oils are used as rust
> /preventives/, at which job they excel. Think Carwell.
contains a reducing agent. which is fine short term, but longer term,
it creates a corrosion problem.
>
>
>>
>>> It 'might' do a number on some paints and plastics. As always, use good
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>
>
> Such oils are often readily taken-up by plastics, which causes them to
> swell, distort, and soften.
/way/ too much of a generalization - it depends on /what/ plastic. the
>> Thanks.
>>
>
>
> Such oils are often readily taken-up by plastics, which causes them to
> swell, distort, and soften.
gear drive for the speedo in your integra is a "plastic" for example,
one that's immersed in oil for all its working life.
[and "plastic" is a horribly imprecise word with two different meanings.
what you really mean is "polymer", preferably stating which kind, like
nylon, h.d.p.e, p.m.m.a, etc.]
> Factory paints are not affected.
are the same either.
> Aftermarket
> paints may or may not be softened or dissolved by oils.
newsgroups.
--
fact check required
GrumpyOne
Oct 8, 2012, 7:59:30 AM10/8/12
to
cameo wrote:
> A while back there was a thread here about the best penetrating rust
> dissolvers but I can't find it anymore. Could somebody remind me what
> the concensus was as to the product?
> In my state we have to install new plates periodically and this time
> I cannot unscrew the bottom two screws holding the front license plate.
> They are so rusted in the thread that I am afraid I might ruin the slot
> on the head of the screws with my flat screwdriver. I tried a product
> recommended at a local auto part store, called PB Blaster, but that did
> not help after a couple hours of soaking. Is there something better than
> that out there?
Not mentioned in the any of the posts... Liquid Wrench, an oldie and
> A while back there was a thread here about the best penetrating rust
> dissolvers but I can't find it anymore. Could somebody remind me what
> the concensus was as to the product?
> In my state we have to install new plates periodically and this time
> I cannot unscrew the bottom two screws holding the front license plate.
> They are so rusted in the thread that I am afraid I might ruin the slot
> on the head of the screws with my flat screwdriver. I tried a product
> recommended at a local auto part store, called PB Blaster, but that did
> not help after a couple hours of soaking. Is there something better than
> that out there?
very effective. Just give it a little time.
Another hint, when installing new bolts, make sure that they are just
long enough to do the job and coat the threads with some chassis/wheel
bearing lube.
Keep it simple...
JT
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