'98 Olds Intrigue high beams
James Goforth
should with switch in high beam position. Low beams work as do all
other lights, including DRL's.
Bulbs are good, found voltage to both terminals in bulb sockets.
Is it pretty likely that this is merely a faulty switch on the column,
or could there be another issue? I have read these cars have their
share of electrical glitches.
Steve W.
Does the high beam indicator come on when you switch to high beam? If it
does it isn't the switch. It gets switched through the same circuit.
Check for a ground in the pink and pink/black wires when you have high
beam on. Also check for a ground at the pink wire going into the under
hood power center. If you have a ground there but not at the pink and
pink/black wires the connections in the fuse box are failing.
--
Steve W.
PeterD
Goforth) wrote:
> '98 Olds Intrigue has no high beams. All other lights work as they
>should with switch in high beam position. Low beams work as do all
>other lights, including DRL's.
> Bulbs are good, found voltage to both terminals in bulb sockets.
Under load, is the voltage = battery voltage, or is that open circuit
voltage (no load).
> Is it pretty likely that this is merely a faulty switch on the column,
>or could there be another issue? I have read these cars have their
>share of electrical glitches.
Could be a connector inline somewhere too. Are low beams working at
full brightness? If so grounds are probably OK.
James Goforth
should with switch in high beam position. Low beams work as do all other
lights, including DRL's.
Bulbs are good, found voltage to both terminals in bulb sockets.
Is it pretty likely that this is merely a faulty switch on the column,
or could there be another issue? I have read these cars have their share
of electrical glitches.
*********************************************
Steve wrote:
"Does the high beam indicator come on when you switch to high beam? If
it does it isn't the switch. It gets switched through the same circuit.
Check for a ground in the pink and pink/black wires when you have high
beam on. Also check for a ground at the pink wire going into the under
hood power center. If you have a ground there but not at the pink and
pink/black wires the connections in the fuse box are failing."
--
Steve W.
*****************************************
High beam indicator light does not come on either. Local GM dealer
says the multi-function switch is about $240 with tax. Since this is
more of a work car (a beater with cosmetic damage), I didn't care for
the idea of spending that much money on it, plus the hassle of changing
it out, airbag, etc.
I considered the idea of just getting an older - style, floor mounted
dimmer switch from a NAPA store, mounting it on the floor like older
cars all have, and just hitting it to ground the high beam circuit to
activate the high beams.
According to the wiring diagram I found online, it looks like you
could get away with just doing that -- I would just have to be sure when
I activated the floor switch that I moved the stalk switch in the high
beam position (so both highs and lows weren't on at the same time).
I hadn't originally planed to hook up the low beams to the floor
switch as well, because I couldn't tell from the schematic whether that
might have some ramifications concerning some other module, (DRL'S,
dash lights, etc). --- whereas it appears the high beams simply need a
ground to operate.
Trying to do a cheap and easy fix for the old bomber. Anyone know of
a reason this isn't advisable? TIA
.
Steve W.
> '98 Olds Intrigue has no high beams. All other lights work as they
> should with switch in high beam position. Low beams work as do all other
> lights, including DRL's.
> Bulbs are good, found voltage to both terminals in bulb sockets.
> Is it pretty likely that this is merely a faulty switch on the column,
>
> or could there be another issue? I have read these cars have their share
> of electrical glitches.
>
> *********************************************
> Steve wrote:
> "Does the high beam indicator come on when you switch to high beam? If
> it does it isn't the switch. It gets switched through the same circuit.
> Check for a ground in the pink and pink/black wires when you have high
> beam on. Also check for a ground at the pink wire going into the under
> hood power center. If you have a ground there but not at the pink and
> pink/black wires the connections in the fuse box are failing."
>
says the multi-function switch is about $240 with tax. Since this is
more of a work car (a beater with cosmetic damage), I didn't care for
the idea of spending that much money on it, plus the hassle of changing
it out, airbag, etc.
I considered the idea of just getting an older - style, floor mounted
dimmer switch from a NAPA store, mounting it on the floor like older
cars all have, and just hitting it to ground the high beam circuit to
activate the high beams.
According to the wiring diagram I found online, it looks like you
could get away with just doing that -- I would just have to be sure when
I activated the floor switch that I moved the stalk switch in the high
beam position (so both highs and lows weren't on at the same time).
I hadn't originally planed to hook up the low beams to the floor
switch as well, because I couldn't tell from the schematic whether that
might have some ramifications concerning some other module, (DRL'S,
dash lights, etc). --- whereas it appears the high beams simply need a
ground to operate.
Trying to do a cheap and easy fix for the old bomber. Anyone know of
a reason this isn't advisable? TIA.
Your probably looking at a bad switch. I would hit a salvage yard (try
http://www.car-part.com/) and get a complete column 150-200 bucks
normally. Since you have to just about pull the column anyway to change
out the switch just swap the column. Easier and quicker.
If you want just the switch you can get a new one for about $150.00
--
Steve W.