Anybody installled TST's PowerMax1 for 24V Cummins?
Justin Tryles - "3689"
Before I do though I would like to know if any of you have put one into your
truck? If so- any problems after installation??? My truck has less than
1000mi on it and I would REALLY hate myself if this thing destroys my
$34,000 investment!!
Thanks in advance,
Justin Tryles
jackin...@prodigy.net
Andrew
>From: "Justin Tryles -
> My truck has less than
>1000mi on it and I would REALLY hate myself if this thing destroys my
>$34,000 investment!!
Since the Cummins isn't supposed to be broken in until after 10-15K miles(and
in some cases up to 30K), I would urge you to wait until then. At 1000, your
ring seals are not properly seated, but I am not sure what damage could be done
from that. Also, most of the companies who sell the boxes strongly suggest
pyro and EGT gauges because of the increased output that these upgrades
provide. I do not have any personal experience with the box, but from reading
more experienced Ram owners' posts, I think you have made a wise decision about
the particular box. I believ Steve St. Laurent just installed one, and he
seems to be quite knowlegable, but I don't have his address to give you. I do
know that he does have the gauges, and maybe even a 4" exhaust. Definitely
talk to some experienced Cummins owners about installing it that soon.
Andrew
Justin Tryles - "3689"
but TST said that it was not necessary. The '99 that they developed the box
on was not "broken-in" as you would say. As for the gauges, they did not
recommend nor even suggest them when I ordered. I am not going to be using
this truck for any heavy pulling (nothing more than a 1500 V8 truck could
handle) so I really don't think that the gauges will be necessary but what
do you guys think? I bought this truck because I have done a lot of research
on 4x4's and Dodge's stock set up (Dana 60 fnt, Dana 80 rear and NV4500
5-sp) is practically bullet proof. Well, I am off to install the box now- I
will report to the group what happens (hopefully all GOOD!).
Justin Tryles
Andrew <arc...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:19991001203151...@ng-fb1.aol.com...
tf...@pop.omah.uswest.net
miles on it lashed up 9k and took it out and hammered it.Doesn;t burn a drop of
oil.A pyro guage is a good idea if your towing a heavy load.I supose you could
watch the temp guage and if it goes up a hair start backing out of it.Tom F.
Justin Tryles - \"3689\" wrote:
> Well I broke down and bought one and I am planning on installing it soon.
> Before I do though I would like to know if any of you have put one into your
> truck? If so- any problems after installation??? My truck has less than
> 1000mi on it and I would REALLY hate myself if this thing destroys my
> $34,000 investment!!
>
Fitch R. Williams
>I was concerned that I should wait a few thousand miles before installing
>but TST said that it was not necessary. The '99 that they developed the box
>on was not "broken-in" as you would say.
The "box" won't be doing anything to change the performance of the truck unless
you "put your foot in it" so to speak. You can and probably will drive 95% of
the time (after you get done "trying it out" of course) using normal accelerator
movements to avoid undue attention from the local justice merchants. My
experience with these engines is that they like to work. I saw a reply from
Cummins where they suggest pulling a trailer to help it get broken in. My 1999
truck performed better each time I pulled the horse trailer. My 1995 truck
started pulling it at 500 miles and has pulled it 70% of its miles since. It
runs so good its hard to believe it has 130K miles on it.
>As for the gauges, they did not
>recommend nor even suggest them when I ordered. I am not going to be using
>this truck for any heavy pulling (nothing more than a 1500 V8 truck could
>handle) so I really don't think that the gauges will be necessary but what
>do you guys think?
I'd get at least a pyrometer gage for exhaust gas temperature. You are changing
the engines ability to generate hot exhaust gas significantly, and it will do it
the most when you least expect it, like when you happen to floor it at a low rpm
like 1500 in say 4th gear - and it will move right out due to the incredible
torque (almost 700 ft lbs based on limited data) - so you won't have the urge to
shift and have the engine run free and cool down the exhaust.
So, my opinion,for what it is worth, would be to install it and get some gages.
Geno's garage has a gage mount that fits in the unused hole in the dash - very
nice arrangement.
Fitch
In So. Cal. High Desert
1995 Reg. Cab 2WD 2500SLT/12V/5spd/4.10/Turnover Ball gooseneck hitch/Tekonsha Sentinel
1999 QC 2 WD 3500SLT/24V/5spd/3.55/customized mirrors/Turnover Ball gooseneck hitch/Tekonsha Sentinel/Class IV DrawTite rear hitch.
Justin Tryles - "3689"
advice everyone! Fitch, I am going to look into ordering a pyrometer very
soon- just to be safe. Any particular setup that you would recommend?
A word to anybody that is considering putting one of these on your truck
though- pick up a couple of extra 10-12ga (yellow) scotchlock connectors!
The connection that you need to make at the fuel pump is a pain in the rear
to say the least and I GUARANTEE that you will drop at least one of them in
to the "black hole" of the engine compartment never to be seen again! Other
than that the install went quite smoothly and the power gain is incredible-
it will throw you back into the seat at a much lower RPM than when stock.
Also, Fitch, you are correct that it only adds boost and fuel when needed so
you are not burning extra fuel unnecessarily. Only when you put the engine
under load does it activate- and then it is a progressive boost- TST seems
to have a winner with this one!
Justin Tryles
jackinthebox{at}prodigy{dot}net
Fitch R. Williams <frwi...@ptw.com> wrote in message
news:wY72NwYyMEML0igWQnu=+hHm...@4ax.com...
Gary Glaenzer
Justin Tryles - "3689" <jackin...@prodigy.net> wrote in message
news:7t69q1$1gqe$1...@newssvr04-int.news.prodigy.com...
> There is so much power on tap it is almost scary! I appreciate all the
> advice everyone! Fitch, I am going to look into ordering a pyrometer very
> soon- just to be safe. Any particular setup that you would recommend?
> A word to anybody that is considering putting one of these on your
truck
> though- pick up a couple of extra 10-12ga (yellow) scotchlock connectors!
Please, please say you mean crimp connectors and not 'Scotchlock', which is
a 3M take-off on 'Wirenuts'.
Because I had a guy who pinched his wiring harness putting an engine in an
S-10, repaired it with 'Scotchlock's, and had a fire when they fell off
after about 300 miles.
Fitch R. Williams
> There is so much power on tap it is almost scary! I appreciate all the
>advice everyone! Fitch, I am going to look into ordering a pyrometer very
>soon- just to be safe. Any particular setup that you would recommend?
Geno's garage and TST both have good kits. I like the Geno's garage mounting
arrangement for the manual transmission version anyway.
Mike Simmons
Automotive Electrical 101
NEVER, EVER, use Scotchlock type connectors on automotive wiring, ESPECIALLY
underhood wiring! I can assure you that you will at some point have
problems with this connection! If you want your truck to maintain the same
reliability as factory, splice, solder and insulate with shrink tubing this
connection! If you don't know how to solder either learn (it's easy) or
have someone do it for you. In my (too many) years in this business, I
can't begin to recount the horror stories caused by the infamous Scotchlock!
Any questions? email me for specifics. Good Luck
Chryco Service Manager
Member SAE
Justin Tryles - "3689" <jackin...@prodigy.net> wrote in message
news:7t69q1$1gqe$1...@newssvr04-int.news.prodigy.com...
> There is so much power on tap it is almost scary! I appreciate all the
> advice everyone! Fitch, I am going to look into ordering a pyrometer very
> soon- just to be safe. Any particular setup that you would recommend?
> A word to anybody that is considering putting one of these on your
truck
> though- pick up a couple of extra 10-12ga (yellow) scotchlock connectors!
> The connection that you need to make at the fuel pump is a pain in the
rear
> to say the least and I GUARANTEE that you will drop at least one of them
in
> to the "black hole" of the engine compartment never to be seen again!
Other
> than that the install went quite smoothly and the power gain is
incredible-
> it will throw you back into the seat at a much lower RPM than when stock.
> Also, Fitch, you are correct that it only adds boost and fuel when needed
so
> you are not burning extra fuel unnecessarily. Only when you put the engine
> under load does it activate- and then it is a progressive boost- TST seems
> to have a winner with this one!
>
> Justin Tryles
> jackinthebox{at}prodigy{dot}net
>
> Fitch R. Williams <frwi...@ptw.com> wrote in message
> news:wY72NwYyMEML0igWQnu=+hHm...@4ax.com...
> > "Justin Tryles - \"3689\"" <jackin...@prodigy.net> wrote:
> >
Fitch R. Williams
>Automotive Electrical 101
>
>NEVER, EVER, use Scotchlock type connectors on automotive wiring, ESPECIALLY
>underhood wiring!
Amen. To Mikes excellent advice about soldering I would only add to be sure you
use rosin core solder intended for electrical uses.
One other thing, if you do use crimp on lugs (insert wire into lug, use pliers
type of tool to crimp into place) on the stranded automotive wiring, do NOT also
solder them. The wire will fatigue and break right where it enters the lug.
When I have a splice to make in automotive wiring that I may have to take apart
again, I almost always use space lug plugs. When I splice in wires to go to a
second trailer plug (off the factory supplied trailer wiring harness) I do it
exactly as Mike advises.
Gary Glaenzer
> "Mike Simmons" <mik...@fidnet.com> wrote:
>
> >Automotive Electrical 101
> >
> >NEVER, EVER, use Scotchlock type connectors on automotive wiring,
ESPECIALLY
> >underhood wiring!
>
> Amen. To Mikes excellent advice about soldering I would only add to be
sure you
> use rosin core solder intended for electrical uses.
>
> One other thing, if you do use crimp on lugs (insert wire into lug, use
pliers
> type of tool to crimp into place) on the stranded automotive wiring, do
NOT also
> solder them. The wire will fatigue and break right where it enters the
lug.
I used to see that too, till I started using TWO pieces of shrink wrap, one
over the other, at the joint. On big stuff (10 or larger), I use three
layers. Gives it that little bit extra support it needs to stop the
fatigue-ing.
G
BigCarl
made by Dyno Sources? Or all 3 of these essentially the same box? I want to
get one for my 1998.5 24v ISB 4x4 QC, but can't decide which one to buy.
Do all the boxes do the same thing to deliver more fuel? Any insight to
determine which one to buy would be helpful.
BigCarl
<tf...@pop.omah.uswest.net> wrote in message
news:37F66590...@pop.omah.uswest.net...
Gary Glaenzer
<wdg@[204.52.135.1]> wrote in message
news:x333N=x+5UwAH3MpT...@4ax.com...
> In article <ZaGJ3.1047$G62....@news.corridex.com> "Mike Simmons"
> <mik...@fidnet.com> writes:
>
>
> >Automotive Electrical 101
>
> >NEVER, EVER, use Scotchlock type connectors on automotive wiring,
ESPECIALLY
> >problems with this connection! If you want your truck to maintain the
same
> >reliability as factory, splice, solder and insulate with shrink tubing
this
> >connection! If you don't know how to solder either learn (it's easy) or
> >have someone do it for you. In my (too many) years in this business, I
> >can't begin to recount the horror stories caused by the infamous
Scotchlock!
> >Any questions? email me for specifics. Good Luck
>
> gradual electrolysis caused by current flowing through dissimilar metals
> in the presence of air (oxygen). The "physical" connection of the
> Scotchlock (or crimp-splice connector) *will* over time, begin to corrode
> and the connection will first become intermittent then eventially fail
> altogether.
>
> In the course of working 4 years for a commercial two-way radio company, I
> saw this happen literally hundreds of times in every make and model of
> vehicle known to mankind. Scotchlock and crimp-type electrical
> connections should only be used for TEMPORARY connections. We used alot
> of Thomas & Betts crimp connectors, but only the bare uninsulated type and
> then SOLDERED them with a high-power (Weller D-550) soldering gun and
> Ersin MultiCore solder. Once the connection cooled we would apply a couple
> wraps of SELF-VULCANIZING (very expensive) rubber tape and then apply a
> quality grade (Scotch-88) of black electrical tape. This connection would
> last an eternity. Without solder, the "mechanical" connection could
> perhaps be expected to last no more than a year or two at most. Any job
> that wasn't soldered was a guaranteed service call waiting to happen.
>
> The problem I see with do-it-yourself soldering jobs is generally the lack
> of sufficient heat (too small of a soldering iron) and improper soldering
> technique. The object is to heat up the connection to the point that the
> connection will melt the solder and cause it to flow evenly.
Yep. And one thing that an old instructor showed me is to put a drop of
molten solder on the iron where it touches the joint........this liquid
solder will have a much greater cross-sectional are to transfer the heat
than a single-point 'dry' contact.
What 2-way service and where?
Motorola here, western IL.
G
Bonus question: When was the crimp connector develoed and why?
You do not
> apply solder to the iron and carry it to the work on the tip. If your
> soldering job looks like it was globbed on (or dripped on) then you didn't
> do it right and the connection is likely going to fail.
>
> Liquid solder is not solder.
>
>
Curious George
>In article <ZaGJ3.1047$G62....@news.corridex.com> "Mike Simmons"
><mik...@fidnet.com> writes:
>
>
>>Automotive Electrical 101
>
>>NEVER, EVER, use Scotchlock type connectors on automotive wiring, ESPECIALLY
>>underhood wiring! I can assure you that you will at some point have
>>problems with this connection! If you want your truck to maintain the same
>>reliability as factory, splice, solder and insulate with shrink tubing this
>>connection! If you don't know how to solder either learn (it's easy) or
>>have someone do it for you. In my (too many) years in this business, I
>>can't begin to recount the horror stories caused by the infamous Scotchlock!
>>Any questions? email me for specifics. Good Luck
>
>Mike speaks the full and absolute truth on this point. The issue is
>gradual electrolysis caused by current flowing through dissimilar metals
>in the presence of air (oxygen). The "physical" connection of the
>Scotchlock (or crimp-splice connector) *will* over time, begin to corrode
>and the connection will first become intermittent then eventially fail
>altogether.
>
I used to LOVE scotchlock connectors. Cars tr4ucks whatever. JOB
SECURITY it was called. There are three types of connections avalable
with scotchlocks. Those that are going to fail, those that have failed
and those that will fail again.
I started to hunt a better connector covering whilst working on 2 way
radio systems. Mobiles with exposed connections Had a aggrivating
ability to corrode the junction of any connection taped/shrinkwrapped
whatever. Most annoying were the trips up 300' feet to replace the
feedline which tho' tightly wrapped had leaked water and ruined the
coax. Accidently found the perfict solution for weatherproofing all
electrical connections whilst removing a 2 way radio I had installed a
couple years earlier.
I had run low on tape, so I used only what I had left in the box and
coated the junction with some Permatex red liquid gasket. Figured I
would fix it right when the truck came in for service. Forgot it of
course.
2 years later under the truck I found the connection had been welded
into a solid hunk of plastic. I cut it open and found the wires as
clean and shiney as the day I wired them.
Tried this cure on all exposed connections. Coax at 300+ coax under
chassis and wiring everywhere. Worked every time.
I started using this method on every connection in an exposed area
and have had no failures in over 28 years.
Just splice and wrap 'tightly' then coat the connection with the red
stuff. It tends to be somewhat messy if you don't take care, but it
works like a charm. Best effect is it will seal the tape and
insulation in a bond which is impervious to moisture even heavy road
salt.
I also use Permatex #2 to seal screw holes in exposed sheetmetal.
Installations like external speakers, sun visors etc.
Good stuff... LCM
Justin Tryles - "3689"
taps. Not wire nuts like you would use in household (120VAC) wiring. I
personally don't like tham but they are what TST supplied and they are about
the only alternative to cutting the factory wires.
Justin
Gary Glaenzer <glae...@rtpro.net> wrote in message
news:rvdck8...@corp.supernews.com...
>
> Justin Tryles - "3689" <jackin...@prodigy.net> wrote in message
> news:7t69q1$1gqe$1...@newssvr04-int.news.prodigy.com...
> > There is so much power on tap it is almost scary! I appreciate all
the
> > advice everyone! Fitch, I am going to look into ordering a pyrometer
very
> > soon- just to be safe. Any particular setup that you would recommend?
> > A word to anybody that is considering putting one of these on your
> truck
> > though- pick up a couple of extra 10-12ga (yellow) scotchlock
connectors!
>
Justin Tryles - "3689"
what TST supplied and that is what I used. The problem of cutting the
factory wiring is just that- you cannot quickly disconnect the TST product
should it fail or if you need to take the truck in for dealer service (the
box voids the warranty). I personally would feel much more secure using a
soldered connection but this just is not practical in this application. I am
cooking up a few alternatives but for now the Scotchlocks will have to do.
Another problem is the location of the wire that connects to the fuel pump-
it is buried and has NO slack in it at all- you can barely get 3 fingers
down there to work. The Scotchlock was hard enough to connect- I can't
imagine trying to solder down there! Do you think that if I were to cover
the Scotchlock connections with liquid electrical tape (like RTV) that they
would be more reliable in the long term????
Justin
Mike Simmons <mik...@fidnet.com> wrote in message
news:ZaGJ3.1047$G62....@news.corridex.com...
> Justin:
>
> Automotive Electrical 101
>
> NEVER, EVER, use Scotchlock type connectors on automotive wiring,
ESPECIALLY
> underhood wiring! I can assure you that you will at some point have
> problems with this connection! If you want your truck to maintain the
same
> reliability as factory, splice, solder and insulate with shrink tubing
this
> connection! If you don't know how to solder either learn (it's easy) or
> have someone do it for you. In my (too many) years in this business, I
> can't begin to recount the horror stories caused by the infamous
Scotchlock!
> Any questions? email me for specifics. Good Luck
>
Justin Tryles - "3689"
> Geno's garage .
Gary Glaenzer
it, that you clamp down with a pair of pliers, it cuts the insulation and
supposedly makes a connection?
God, they're even worse than wire-nuts!
G
Justin Tryles - "3689" <jackin...@prodigy.net> wrote in message
news:7t8cq0$3m4o$1...@newssvr04-int.news.prodigy.com...
Mike Simmons
answer is yes (at least I hope so!). Therefore GET RID of the scotchlocks
in short order or else you WILL have problems. Naturally, Murphy's Law
being alive and well, these problems WILL occur at the most inconvenient
time.
Secondly, let's dispell the myth the the TST device will void your warranty.
It will not!! Please read your warranty carefully (a novel idea!) and you
will see it is so. What can happen however is that if some sort of damage
occurs to your truck that is attributable to the TST device, Chryco "can"
deny payment of that warranty claim. They don't routinely do that unless it
is a case of gross abuse or negligence.
So in the interest of maintaining a safe and reliable truck, get rid of the
damned scotchlocks. Even if TST supplied 'em, they WILL give you trouble.
You indicated that the one location is hard to get to, well how hard will it
be to get to on a cold winter night or in a rainstorm, hmmmm? It ain't
gonna get any easier than right now! Sorry for being so strident on this
subject, but I'm trying to do you a favor... trust me.
Chryco Service Manager
Member SAE
Justin Tryles - "3689" <jackin...@prodigy.net> wrote in message
news:7t8de6$1ob8$1...@newssvr04-int.news.prodigy.com...
Fitch R. Williams
>Any insight to
>determine which one to buy would be helpful.
The TST box apparently has the exhaust smoke much better controlled and
certainly develops all the power you can practically use in the truck.
Fitch R. Williams
>How do I get a hold of them? Do they have a web site???
>
>> Geno's garage .
try http://www.turbodieselregister.com/genosgarage.htm
It worked for me. You can order on line, which i did, although it doesn't say
so.
Justin Tryles - "3689"
the Scotchlocks are working.
Justin
Gary Glaenzer <glae...@rtpro.net> wrote in message
news:rvfeh7...@corp.supernews.com...
Justin Tryles - "3689"
damn Scotchlocks to a soldered connection. If what you say is true about the
warranty, which given your choice of career is more than likely true, then I
will be spending next weekend redoing my connections! Reliability is first
priority for sure!
Justin
Mike Simmons <mik...@fidnet.com> wrote in message
news:7UPJ3.1073$G62....@news.corridex.com...
Fitch R. Williams
>Well the warranty issue is the ONLY thing holding me back from changing the
>damn Scotchlocks to a soldered connection. If what you say is true about the
>warranty, which given your choice of career is more than likely true, then I
>will be spending next weekend redoing my connections! Reliability is first
>priority for sure!
I agree that the scotch lock connections are not very reliable. However, is
there really a reliability issue here in the sense of leaving you stalled on the
road some place? It was my impression that if the wire fell off, the worst that
would happen is that the truck would run like a stock truck. Is this not the
case?
Steve St.Laurent
Looks like you got it in ok so now you know the feeling! (hehe) I would
definately get the boost and pyro gauges - the pyro is mandatory and the
boost gauge can help you diagnose problems. I put mine on an a-pillar mount
and it's a real slick setup. My gauges are DiPricol that I got from TST.
The boost gauge is really cool with a lighted needle but the pyro needle
isn't lighted. I raced a guy in a newer regular cab short box 2wd chevy
small block the other day and I blew him into the weeds!! It was hilarious!
-Steve St.Laurent
'98 Quad Cab Long Bed (CMNSPWR), 4x4, ISB, 5sp, 4.10 LSD, Prime-loc remote
fuel filter,
boost & pyro gauges, TST Powermax, Permatech spray in liner, Grizzly
stainless nerf bars,
BFG 285/75R16 AT KO's
http://my.voyager.net/stevest
Justin Tryles - "3689"
the Powermax has a total meltdown! If that happened just (after
disconnecting the neg batt terms) unplug 2 wires and reconnect the stock
MAP sensor and you are back to normal. That is the one (and only) good
reason for the Scotchlocks- quick and easy disconnect! This is a definite
bonus for when you need to take the truck in to the dealer too! Unless they
happen to see the Scotchlock connector on the pump wire they will be none
the wiser to your mods- your warranty would remain intact! Even if they did
discover the scotchlock connector- what can they prove by it? I can have the
box completely out of the truck (except for the 2 Scotchlocks) in less than
a 1/2 hour. I think I may keep the Scotchlocks for now and just cover them
in liquid electrical tape (available at marine supply shops) to help keep
out the elements. If they ever give me trouble I will then look into some
sort of soldered connection. As you say- the truck will revert to stock if
one (or more) of the TST connections fail so it really should not be any big
deal!
Another question for you Fitch. I have noticed that the oil filter is
HUGE on the diesel. Do you have to get it from a dealer or is an aftermarket
(Fram (yuk), Purolater, Mobil1) filter available? Also, how often do you
change your fuel filter? The owners manual recommends a change interval but
do you recommend doing it more often? Sorry to pester you with all the
questions but you seem to be the diesel expert here! If you are considering
the Powermax for your own truck all I can say is that I am VERY impressed by
the available power (and I was impressed by the truck in its stock
configuration!). Acceleration is now quite unbelievable for a full size,
diesel powered, 3/4 ton, 4x4 truck- and I can only imagine what it would
pull a 5th wheel like! Quite honestly this truck could use 2 more gears even
on top of the OD 5th gear! Of course, if Dodge did that they might not sell
anymore Vipers! :-) (OK- so it isn't THAT fast but you get the idea!) Thanks
for the info, Fitch.
Justin
Fitch R. Williams <frwi...@ptw.com> wrote in message
news:S=P3N3wLw1rx67b...@4ax.com...
Justin Tryles - "3689"
gauges- probably order in a week or so. How hard was it to install the
sending units???
Justin
Ortonville, MI
Steve St.Laurent <ste...@voyager.net> wrote in message
news:37f8c0eb$0$10...@news.voyager.net...
Justin Tryles - "3689"
Justin
Fitch R. Williams <frwi...@ptw.com> wrote in message
Steve St.Laurent
hardest part for me was getting a large (15/16" I think) fitting out of the
block for the boost gauge. I broke 3 extensions getting it out but it
finally came!
-Steve St.Laurent
'98 Quad Cab Long Bed (CMNSPWR), 4x4, ISB, 5sp, 4.10 LSD, Prime-loc remote
fuel filter,
boost & pyro gauges, TST Powermax, Permatech spray in liner, Grizzly
stainless nerf bars,
BFG 285/75R16 AT KO's
http://my.voyager.net/stevest
Justin Tryles - "3689" wrote in message
<7tbbnq$3nec$1...@newssvr03-int.news.prodigy.com>...
Fitch R. Williams
> Another question for you Fitch. I have noticed that the oil filter is
>HUGE on the diesel. Do you have to get it from a dealer or is an aftermarket
>(Fram (yuk), Purolater, Mobil1) filter available?
I ran filters from the Dealer up until now. The Dodge dealer sells the Fleet
Guard filters painted gray. I have recently started using filters I purchased
on line from Geno's Garage. There was a recent change in the Fleet guard filter
that is recommended for use on the ISB. The filter now recommended is the Fleet
Guard Stratapour. They are available from Geno's Garage for $8.25 each plus
shipping.
>Also, how often do you change your fuel filter?
I have changed it every oil change since the truck was new.
>The owners manual recommends a change interval but
>do you recommend doing it more often?
Nope. 6,000 miles on the 1995 truck since it had 18,000 miles on it (Its at
around 130K now). The oil in my 1995 truck is clear enough to read the dip
stick markings right through it at 6,000 miles. I have recently had oil
analysis done on the oil (DELO 400 15W-40) after 6,000 miles which indicated
that it could go farther if the filter was changed. I see no reason to change
it more often than 6,000 miles.
However, I should also note, this truck is regularly driven on an average trip
length that is greater than 20 miles (most often 40 or 50 miles).
I just went 6,000 miles for the first time on the 1999 truck. It has 18,000
miles on it. I plan to stick with the 6,000 mile interval on this truck also
unless oil analysis or some other objective evidence convinces me to go to the
7,500 miles that is permitted. I am using the Stratapour filter on the 1999
truck (and when the 6 other regular filters on my shelf are used up I will use
the Stratapour on both trucks).