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Starting Issue with 2001 C5
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aRKay
Apr 20, 2012, 8:25:12 AM4/20/12
to
I have a starting issue with my 2001 C5. The battery is good and the
starter has been replaced. When I turn the key to start, there has been
a few seconds delay until the starter kicks over. I think this is to
allow time to check and cut off lights etc to give max cranking amps
to the starter. Last night I moved the key to start and after a few
seconds the light went out and the amp meter (on the dash) dropped
back but the starter never kicked over. I am starting to suspect a
computer module is screwing up. I was about to call for the wrecker
this morning and it is now starting.
How do you reset the computer that controls the starting sequence?
Are that codes that may show something?
starter has been replaced. When I turn the key to start, there has been
a few seconds delay until the starter kicks over. I think this is to
allow time to check and cut off lights etc to give max cranking amps
to the starter. Last night I moved the key to start and after a few
seconds the light went out and the amp meter (on the dash) dropped
back but the starter never kicked over. I am starting to suspect a
computer module is screwing up. I was about to call for the wrecker
this morning and it is now starting.
How do you reset the computer that controls the starting sequence?
Are that codes that may show something?
aRKay
Apr 20, 2012, 8:40:20 AM4/20/12
to
40-BCM B0432H
and
99-HVAC- BO348 and V1000H
What does 40-BCM BO432H mean???
Unquestionably Confused
Apr 20, 2012, 9:00:56 AM4/20/12
to
On 4/20/2012 7:40 AM, aRKay wrote:
>
> How do you reset the computer that controls the starting sequence?
>
> I just check the codes and got one that may mean something
>
> 40-BCM B0432H
>
> and
> 99-HVAC- BO348 and V1000H
>
> What does 40-BCM BO432H mean???
If you'll get a straight answer anywhere, it will likely be here but...
>
> How do you reset the computer that controls the starting sequence?
>
> I just check the codes and got one that may mean something
>
> 40-BCM B0432H
>
> and
> 99-HVAC- BO348 and V1000H
>
> What does 40-BCM BO432H mean???
AFAIK, the "H" suffix on your code indicates that the trouble code shown
is historic, i.e. occurred in the past but is not currently at issue.
Not sure how long ago the code was thrown (history is supposedly
retained for 40-50 ignition cycles) so just jot it down (so you can
share it with the tech if necessary to proceed further) and check again
in a few days or after the next starting problem and see what happens.
Is it back?
40-BCM refers to the Body Control Module
Next time it happens, run through the codes immediately and see if any
are shown as current, i.e. have a "C" suffix. That will be a good
starting point
Unquestionably Confused
Apr 20, 2012, 9:07:31 AM4/20/12
to
On 4/20/2012 7:40 AM, aRKay wrote:
> I just check the codes and got one that may mean something
>
> 40-BCM B0432H
>
> and
> 99-HVAC- BO348 and V1000H
>
> What does 40-BCM BO432H mean???
I doubt that B0432 is your culprit but...
>
> 40-BCM B0432H
>
> and
> 99-HVAC- BO348 and V1000H
>
> What does 40-BCM BO432H mean???
B0432 refers to a problem/code thrown by the rear window defogger relay
B0438, it seems, is related to the air conditioning as you might expect
from its category assignment.
Not sure on the V1000 other than it's historic
Dad
Apr 20, 2012, 10:51:31 AM4/20/12
to
"aRKay" <ar...@nospam.qsl.net> wrote in message
news:arkay-5AA1AB....@news.eternal-september.org...
>I have a starting issue with my 2001 C5. The battery is good and the
> starter has been replaced.
>
Why do you believe the battery is good? What kind of voltage does it
> starter has been replaced.
>
have and how good are the cold cranking amps?
>
>When I turn the key to start, there has been
> a few seconds delay until the starter kicks over. I think this is
> to
> allow time to check and cut off lights etc to give max cranking amps
> to the starter. Last night I moved the key to start and after a few
> seconds the light went out and the amp meter (on the dash) dropped
> back but the starter never kicked over. I am starting to suspect a
> computer module is screwing up. I was about to call for the wrecker
> this morning and it is now starting.
>
> How do you reset the computer that controls the starting sequence?
>
Unhook the battery for more than just a few seconds. Not sure how much
>When I turn the key to start, there has been
> a few seconds delay until the starter kicks over. I think this is
> to
> allow time to check and cut off lights etc to give max cranking amps
> to the starter. Last night I moved the key to start and after a few
> seconds the light went out and the amp meter (on the dash) dropped
> back but the starter never kicked over. I am starting to suspect a
> computer module is screwing up. I was about to call for the wrecker
> this morning and it is now starting.
>
> How do you reset the computer that controls the starting sequence?
>
that would help as it just allows the computer to reset running
parameters, like fuel trim etc.
>
> I just check the codes and got one that may mean something
>
> 40-BCM B0432H
>
B0432 Rear Defogger Relay Circuit
> I just check the codes and got one that may mean something
>
> 40-BCM B0432H
>
>
> and
> 99-HVAC- BO348 and V1000H
>
B0348 Sunload Temperature Sensor Open
> and
> 99-HVAC- BO348 and V1000H
>
>
If you mis-typed the V1000H as there are no "V" codes, B1000H means
ECU Malfunction.
>
> What does 40-BCM BO432H mean???
>
You need a decision tree to trace the problem and then it does not
> What does 40-BCM BO432H mean???
>
mean in this case the ECU is bad. It can mean circuit is broken, like
a connection is loose, corroded, or a bad ground.
aRKay
Apr 20, 2012, 2:20:29 PM4/20/12
to
In article <7cWdncomHuVi6gzS...@bright.net>,
Wallmart 3 year 100% replacement warranty to the store. They
checked it with some machine and I think the battery is rated for
555 cranking amps and the reading was over 600. The battery passed
all tests.
> >
> >When I turn the key to start, there has been
> > a few seconds delay until the starter kicks over. I think this is
> > to
> > allow time to check and cut off lights etc to give max cranking amps
> > to the starter. Last night I moved the key to start and after a few
> > seconds the light went out and the amp meter (on the dash) dropped
> > back but the starter never kicked over. I am starting to suspect a
> > computer module is screwing up. I was about to call for the wrecker
> > this morning and it is now starting.
> >
> > How do you reset the computer that controls the starting sequence?
> >
> Unhook the battery for more than just a few seconds. Not sure how much
> that would help as it just allows the computer to reset running
> parameters, like fuel trim etc.
The battery was removed for about an hour. I reinstalled it last night
and it still would not start. This morning I got up and it is starting
perfect.
My guess (or wishful thinking) is disconnecting the battery may have
forced a reset and maybe this is why it is starting today
Does the BCM module control the starting sequence or is it controlled
by the ECM module?
> >
> > I just check the codes and got one that may mean something
> >
> > 40-BCM B0432H
> >
> B0432 Rear Defogger Relay Circuit
> >
> > and
> > 99-HVAC- BO348 and V1000H
> >
> B0348 Sunload Temperature Sensor Open
> >
> If you mis-typed the V1000H as there are no "V" codes, B1000H means
> ECU Malfunction.
> >
> > What does 40-BCM BO432H mean???
> >
> You need a decision tree to trace the problem and then it does not
> mean in this case the ECU is bad. It can mean circuit is broken, like
> a connection is loose, corroded, or a bad ground.
I am beginning to suspect a battery cable to the starter that will
pass voltage but craps out under load. These are hard to find.
"Dad" <knoc...@fisher.net> wrote:
> "aRKay" <ar...@nospam.qsl.net> wrote in message
> news:arkay-5AA1AB....@news.eternal-september.org...
> >I have a starting issue with my 2001 C5. The battery is good and the
> > starter has been replaced.
> >
> Why do you believe the battery is good? What kind of voltage does it
> have and how good are the cold cranking amps?
I carried the less than 1 year old battery that is still under a
> "aRKay" <ar...@nospam.qsl.net> wrote in message
> news:arkay-5AA1AB....@news.eternal-september.org...
> >I have a starting issue with my 2001 C5. The battery is good and the
> > starter has been replaced.
> >
> Why do you believe the battery is good? What kind of voltage does it
> have and how good are the cold cranking amps?
Wallmart 3 year 100% replacement warranty to the store. They
checked it with some machine and I think the battery is rated for
555 cranking amps and the reading was over 600. The battery passed
all tests.
> >
> >When I turn the key to start, there has been
> > a few seconds delay until the starter kicks over. I think this is
> > to
> > allow time to check and cut off lights etc to give max cranking amps
> > to the starter. Last night I moved the key to start and after a few
> > seconds the light went out and the amp meter (on the dash) dropped
> > back but the starter never kicked over. I am starting to suspect a
> > computer module is screwing up. I was about to call for the wrecker
> > this morning and it is now starting.
> >
> > How do you reset the computer that controls the starting sequence?
> >
> Unhook the battery for more than just a few seconds. Not sure how much
> that would help as it just allows the computer to reset running
> parameters, like fuel trim etc.
and it still would not start. This morning I got up and it is starting
perfect.
My guess (or wishful thinking) is disconnecting the battery may have
forced a reset and maybe this is why it is starting today
Does the BCM module control the starting sequence or is it controlled
by the ECM module?
> >
> > I just check the codes and got one that may mean something
> >
> > 40-BCM B0432H
> >
> B0432 Rear Defogger Relay Circuit
> >
> > and
> > 99-HVAC- BO348 and V1000H
> >
> B0348 Sunload Temperature Sensor Open
> >
> If you mis-typed the V1000H as there are no "V" codes, B1000H means
> ECU Malfunction.
> >
> > What does 40-BCM BO432H mean???
> >
> You need a decision tree to trace the problem and then it does not
> mean in this case the ECU is bad. It can mean circuit is broken, like
> a connection is loose, corroded, or a bad ground.
pass voltage but craps out under load. These are hard to find.
Dad
Apr 20, 2012, 3:54:49 PM4/20/12
to
news:arkay-CC45EF....@news.eternal-september.org...
BCM = Body Control module
ECM = Engine control module
starter cable is not bad, I do suspect a bad connection somewhere.
>
I worked with a fellow that was replacing his starter every few
months. That many starters can't be bad so a new mechanic looked at it
and found the timing trigger was mislocated. The starter was trying to
start the engine under a very high load. You need a decision tree and
someone that knows how to repair your car. The more you mess with it
the more connections and wires that can be poorly connected. It is
also a good idea to clean and reseal all connectors you work with and
the grounds should be cleaned when you start popping codes. Do you
have any dielectric grease or cleaner? I like Boeshield T-9 as a
cleaner/protectorate but you still need the dielectric grease for a
good seal.
> In article <7cWdncomHuVi6gzS...@bright.net>,
> "Dad" <knoc...@fisher.net> wrote:
>
>> "aRKay" <ar...@nospam.qsl.net> wrote in message
>> news:arkay-5AA1AB....@news.eternal-september.org...
>> >I have a starting issue with my 2001 C5. The battery is good and
>> >the
>> > starter has been replaced.
>> >
>> Why do you believe the battery is good? What kind of voltage does
>> it
>> have and how good are the cold cranking amps?
>
> I carried the less than 1 year old battery that is still under a
> Wallmart 3 year 100% replacement warranty to the store. They
> checked it with some machine and I think the battery is rated for
> 555 cranking amps and the reading was over 600. The battery passed
> all tests.
>
Needs to be tested under load.
> "Dad" <knoc...@fisher.net> wrote:
>
>> "aRKay" <ar...@nospam.qsl.net> wrote in message
>> news:arkay-5AA1AB....@news.eternal-september.org...
>> >I have a starting issue with my 2001 C5. The battery is good and
>> >the
>> > starter has been replaced.
>> >
>> Why do you believe the battery is good? What kind of voltage does
>> it
>> have and how good are the cold cranking amps?
>
> I carried the less than 1 year old battery that is still under a
> Wallmart 3 year 100% replacement warranty to the store. They
> checked it with some machine and I think the battery is rated for
> 555 cranking amps and the reading was over 600. The battery passed
> all tests.
>
ECM = Engine control module
>
>> >
>> > I just check the codes and got one that may mean something
>> >
>> > 40-BCM B0432H
>> >
>> B0432 Rear Defogger Relay Circuit
>> >
>> > and
>> > 99-HVAC- BO348 and V1000H
>> >
>> B0348 Sunload Temperature Sensor Open
>> >
>> If you mis-typed the V1000H as there are no "V" codes, B1000H means
>> ECU Malfunction.
>> >
>> > What does 40-BCM BO432H mean???
>> >
>> You need a decision tree to trace the problem and then it does not
>> mean in this case the ECU is bad. It can mean circuit is broken,
>> like
>> a connection is loose, corroded, or a bad ground.
>
> I am beginning to suspect a battery cable to the starter that will
> pass voltage but craps out under load. These are hard to find.
>
Why was the starter replaced and who changed it? Most likely your
>> >
>> > I just check the codes and got one that may mean something
>> >
>> > 40-BCM B0432H
>> >
>> B0432 Rear Defogger Relay Circuit
>> >
>> > and
>> > 99-HVAC- BO348 and V1000H
>> >
>> B0348 Sunload Temperature Sensor Open
>> >
>> If you mis-typed the V1000H as there are no "V" codes, B1000H means
>> ECU Malfunction.
>> >
>> > What does 40-BCM BO432H mean???
>> >
>> You need a decision tree to trace the problem and then it does not
>> mean in this case the ECU is bad. It can mean circuit is broken,
>> like
>> a connection is loose, corroded, or a bad ground.
>
> I am beginning to suspect a battery cable to the starter that will
> pass voltage but craps out under load. These are hard to find.
>
starter cable is not bad, I do suspect a bad connection somewhere.
>
I worked with a fellow that was replacing his starter every few
months. That many starters can't be bad so a new mechanic looked at it
and found the timing trigger was mislocated. The starter was trying to
start the engine under a very high load. You need a decision tree and
someone that knows how to repair your car. The more you mess with it
the more connections and wires that can be poorly connected. It is
also a good idea to clean and reseal all connectors you work with and
the grounds should be cleaned when you start popping codes. Do you
have any dielectric grease or cleaner? I like Boeshield T-9 as a
cleaner/protectorate but you still need the dielectric grease for a
good seal.
gn643202
Apr 21, 2012, 7:39:42 AM4/21/12
to
On 04/20/2012 01:20 PM, aRKay wrote:
> The battery was removed for about an hour. I reinstalled it last night
> and it still would not start. This morning I got up and it is starting
> perfect.
>
> My guess (or wishful thinking) is disconnecting the battery may have
> forced a reset and maybe this is why it is starting today
Was the connection good. Did you clean the contact points real
> The battery was removed for about an hour. I reinstalled it last night
> and it still would not start. This morning I got up and it is starting
> perfect.
>
> My guess (or wishful thinking) is disconnecting the battery may have
> forced a reset and maybe this is why it is starting today
good between the battery and the cable?
aRKay
Apr 21, 2012, 10:43:39 AM4/21/12
to
In article <vpSdnZmLdJvjAQ_S...@giganews.com>,
The battery has side terminals and it never entered my mine to clean the
cables before connecting. There may be a bad connection somewhere but
I don't thing it is at the connection to the side terminals of the
battery.
cables before connecting. There may be a bad connection somewhere but
I don't thing it is at the connection to the side terminals of the
battery.
aRKay
Apr 21, 2012, 10:53:29 AM4/21/12
to
In article <X4GdnaFN8puLIgzS...@bright.net>,
Which one handles the starting sequence? I read the description of
both and it is not very clear which one controls the starting sequence
> >
> >> >
> >> > I just check the codes and got one that may mean something
> >> >
> >> > 40-BCM B0432H
> >> >
> >> B0432 Rear Defogger Relay Circuit
> >> >
> >> > and
> >> > 99-HVAC- BO348 and V1000H
> >> >
> >> B0348 Sunload Temperature Sensor Open
> >> >
> >> If you mis-typed the V1000H as there are no "V" codes, B1000H means
> >> ECU Malfunction.
> >> >
> >> > What does 40-BCM BO432H mean???
> >> >
> >> You need a decision tree to trace the problem and then it does not
> >> mean in this case the ECU is bad. It can mean circuit is broken,
> >> like
> >> a connection is loose, corroded, or a bad ground.
> >
> > I am beginning to suspect a battery cable to the starter that will
> > pass voltage but craps out under load. These are hard to find.
> >
> Why was the starter replaced and who changed it? Most likely your
> starter cable is not bad, I do suspect a bad connection somewhere.
It failed the same way about four months ago and the tech that checked
it said the tests shows the starter was bad. He got the old starter to
crank by tapping on it with screw driver.
> >
> I worked with a fellow that was replacing his starter every few
> months. That many starters can't be bad so a new mechanic looked at it
> and found the timing trigger was mislocated. The starter was trying to
> start the engine under a very high load. You need a decision tree and
> someone that knows how to repair your car.
Sort of like finding a good Doctor.
>The more you mess with it
> the more connections and wires that can be poorly connected. It is
> also a good idea to clean and reseal all connectors you work with and
> the grounds should be cleaned when you start popping codes. Do you
> have any dielectric grease or cleaner?
No and I cannot work on this part of the car from home. Can't get under
it without having a lift
"Dad" <knoc...@fisher.net> wrote:
> "aRKay" <ar...@nospam.qsl.net> wrote in message
> news:arkay-CC45EF....@news.eternal-september.org...
> > In article <7cWdncomHuVi6gzS...@bright.net>,
> > "Dad" <knoc...@fisher.net> wrote:
> >
> >> "aRKay" <ar...@nospam.qsl.net> wrote in message
> >> news:arkay-5AA1AB....@news.eternal-september.org...
> >> >I have a starting issue with my 2001 C5. The battery is good and
> >> >the
> >> > starter has been replaced.
> >> >
> >> Why do you believe the battery is good? What kind of voltage does
> >> it
> >> have and how good are the cold cranking amps?
> >
> > I carried the less than 1 year old battery that is still under a
> > Wallmart 3 year 100% replacement warranty to the store. They
> > checked it with some machine and I think the battery is rated for
> > 555 cranking amps and the reading was over 600. The battery passed
> > all tests.
> >
> Needs to be tested under load.
Since it now starts, I plan to take to someone that has a load tester
> "aRKay" <ar...@nospam.qsl.net> wrote in message
> news:arkay-CC45EF....@news.eternal-september.org...
> > In article <7cWdncomHuVi6gzS...@bright.net>,
> > "Dad" <knoc...@fisher.net> wrote:
> >
> >> "aRKay" <ar...@nospam.qsl.net> wrote in message
> >> news:arkay-5AA1AB....@news.eternal-september.org...
> >> >I have a starting issue with my 2001 C5. The battery is good and
> >> >the
> >> > starter has been replaced.
> >> >
> >> Why do you believe the battery is good? What kind of voltage does
> >> it
> >> have and how good are the cold cranking amps?
> >
> > I carried the less than 1 year old battery that is still under a
> > Wallmart 3 year 100% replacement warranty to the store. They
> > checked it with some machine and I think the battery is rated for
> > 555 cranking amps and the reading was over 600. The battery passed
> > all tests.
> >
> Needs to be tested under load.
both and it is not very clear which one controls the starting sequence
> >
> >> >
> >> > I just check the codes and got one that may mean something
> >> >
> >> > 40-BCM B0432H
> >> >
> >> B0432 Rear Defogger Relay Circuit
> >> >
> >> > and
> >> > 99-HVAC- BO348 and V1000H
> >> >
> >> B0348 Sunload Temperature Sensor Open
> >> >
> >> If you mis-typed the V1000H as there are no "V" codes, B1000H means
> >> ECU Malfunction.
> >> >
> >> > What does 40-BCM BO432H mean???
> >> >
> >> You need a decision tree to trace the problem and then it does not
> >> mean in this case the ECU is bad. It can mean circuit is broken,
> >> like
> >> a connection is loose, corroded, or a bad ground.
> >
> > I am beginning to suspect a battery cable to the starter that will
> > pass voltage but craps out under load. These are hard to find.
> >
> Why was the starter replaced and who changed it? Most likely your
> starter cable is not bad, I do suspect a bad connection somewhere.
it said the tests shows the starter was bad. He got the old starter to
crank by tapping on it with screw driver.
> >
> I worked with a fellow that was replacing his starter every few
> months. That many starters can't be bad so a new mechanic looked at it
> and found the timing trigger was mislocated. The starter was trying to
> start the engine under a very high load. You need a decision tree and
> someone that knows how to repair your car.
>The more you mess with it
> the more connections and wires that can be poorly connected. It is
> also a good idea to clean and reseal all connectors you work with and
> the grounds should be cleaned when you start popping codes. Do you
> have any dielectric grease or cleaner?
it without having a lift
aRKay
Apr 21, 2012, 5:33:20 PM4/21/12
to
In article <arkay-6D44F8....@news.eternal-september.org>,
from my first posting I have had a delay for some time from when I put
the key to START until the the starter does its thing. I have assumed
this 3 to 5 second delay is normal for one of the computers to run the
starting sequence to check everything before commanding the starter to
do its thing. I am still not clear if the BCM controls the starting
sequence.
Today the C5 is starting better than ever and there is NO delay in the
starting sequence. The starter is working perfect.
My revised (wishful thinking) is two things may have fixed the starting
issue. One is the Dad comment that removing the battery forces the
computer to reset. I had the battery out of the car for at least an hour
taking back to Wallmart for test. The other item is making sure the
negative terminal is connected good to the battery. There is little room
to get a wrench on the side terminal and something tells me the
installer at Wallmart last year may not have made a good connection.
When I removed it I was surprised at how easy it was to remove the side
terminals. I know my connection was good because I used a small special
side terminal wrench that I keep in the car at all times. I picked it
up at Wallmart when I purchase the battery in Aug 2011.
A half-assed negative battery terminal connection could cause or
contribute to the starting issues.
Stay tuned to see if the fix really works. It is working perfect today.
aRKay <ar...@nospam.qsl.net> wrote:
> In article <vpSdnZmLdJvjAQ_S...@giganews.com>,
> gn643202 <jerry...@jperkins.us> wrote:
>
> > On 04/20/2012 01:20 PM, aRKay wrote:
> > > The battery was removed for about an hour. I reinstalled it last night
> > > and it still would not start. This morning I got up and it is starting
> > > perfect.
> > >
> > > My guess (or wishful thinking) is disconnecting the battery may have
> > > forced a reset and maybe this is why it is starting today
> >
> > Was the connection good. Did you clean the contact points real
> > good between the battery and the cable?
Very interesting and Jerry's comment got me to thinking. If you recall
> In article <vpSdnZmLdJvjAQ_S...@giganews.com>,
> gn643202 <jerry...@jperkins.us> wrote:
>
> > On 04/20/2012 01:20 PM, aRKay wrote:
> > > The battery was removed for about an hour. I reinstalled it last night
> > > and it still would not start. This morning I got up and it is starting
> > > perfect.
> > >
> > > My guess (or wishful thinking) is disconnecting the battery may have
> > > forced a reset and maybe this is why it is starting today
> >
> > Was the connection good. Did you clean the contact points real
> > good between the battery and the cable?
from my first posting I have had a delay for some time from when I put
the key to START until the the starter does its thing. I have assumed
this 3 to 5 second delay is normal for one of the computers to run the
starting sequence to check everything before commanding the starter to
do its thing. I am still not clear if the BCM controls the starting
sequence.
Today the C5 is starting better than ever and there is NO delay in the
starting sequence. The starter is working perfect.
My revised (wishful thinking) is two things may have fixed the starting
issue. One is the Dad comment that removing the battery forces the
computer to reset. I had the battery out of the car for at least an hour
taking back to Wallmart for test. The other item is making sure the
negative terminal is connected good to the battery. There is little room
to get a wrench on the side terminal and something tells me the
installer at Wallmart last year may not have made a good connection.
When I removed it I was surprised at how easy it was to remove the side
terminals. I know my connection was good because I used a small special
side terminal wrench that I keep in the car at all times. I picked it
up at Wallmart when I purchase the battery in Aug 2011.
A half-assed negative battery terminal connection could cause or
contribute to the starting issues.
Stay tuned to see if the fix really works. It is working perfect today.
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