Just paid over $500.00 at the dealer to have the right one done and
now I can hear the left side begininng to whine.
I just had the ball joints replaced. Would the bad ball joints cause
the wheel bearings to go out?
Thanks
Ed
>I just had the ball joints replaced. Would the bad ball joints cause
>the wheel bearings to go out?
Not really though bad aligment can add a bit a strain to bearings
sometimes. versized tires and lifts can be very hard on bearings and
ball joints.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com
The hub assembly will cost you about 200/250 bucks. DON'T buy the
cheapest one.
Tool wise you will need a 13 and an 18mm combination wrench, 12,13 and
18MM sockets. LARGE socket that fits the axle nut(51 or 52 MM forget
which)some sandpaper or a way to clean off rust/crud Torque wrench. Lug
wrench. Pry bar. Regular screwdriver. Dead blow hammer. Jack and stands.
Jack it up, pull the wheel off and use a pin to lock the rotor in place
so you can remove the axle nut. Then TAP the end of the axle to loosen
it up. Now remove the caliper and bracket using the two 18mm bolts that
hold the bracket to the spindle. Hang the caliper and bracket with
heavy wire so it doesn't strain the hose. Now pull the rotor off.
Disconnect the wiring that goes to the wheel sensor (it is on top of the
frame behind the rubber shield). And remove the bolts that secure the
wire to the frame and the A Arm, the one at the end can just be pried
open gently and the wire removed, the others wrap around the wire. Now
you can remove the three bolts that hold the hub to the spindle. They
will be TIGHT and they have loctite on them. Once they are out give the
hub a few hard whacks with the mallet to break the rust free and remove
it, make sure the O ring comes out. You will want to tap the axle out
and catch the washer that was under the nut. Now clean up the spindle
where the hub bolts on. Clean the rust off the brake backing plate where
it is sandwiched between the hub and spindle, clean the rust off the
rotor hat (part that goes over the studs)on both sides. Clean the ENDS
of the hub retainer bolts where they are rusted, Don't remove the blue
thread locker though. Now reverse the process to install the new one.
Put a LIGHT coat of a non petroleum lube on the new Oring and get the
bolts all started in the hub before you tighten any of them.
The bolts securing the hub to the spindle get tightened to 77 ft pounds,
the axle nut gets 107 ft pounds. Brake caliper mounting bracket bolts
are 133 ft pounds.
Should take the average DIYer about 2 hours.
--
Steve W.
Steve:
Thank you very much. You answered all of my questions perfectly.
This really hepls. I needed those toruqe values and I wasn't sure if
it was metric. Now I can be prepared.
Thanks again for taking the time.
Ed in Spokane
James
>Steve:
>
>Thank you very much. You answered all of my questions perfectly.
>This really hepls. I needed those toruqe values and I wasn't sure if
>it was metric. Now I can be prepared.
>
>Thanks again for taking the time.
If you torque brake caliper bracket bolts to 133Ft lbs you will likely
break them. The officail GM dealar manual call for 70Nm or 52 ft lbs
and 102 ft lbs on axle nut (it would not hurt to do a bit more but you
do not really want to be less than 102 on this nut.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com
Want to bet. Those numbers ARE factory numbers. The book is sitting next
to me on the shelf, Oh and I just did one yesterday as well.
The 52lb ft is for the REAR brake caliper mount NOT the front.
GM Manual section 5-62 Disc Brakes
Caliper bracket to knuckle mounting bolts (Front)- 133lb ft
GM Manual section 3-83 Front Suspension
Steering knuckle to wheel hub - 77lb ft
Speed sensor to wheel hub - 13lb ft (not usually needed because most new
hubs come with sensors installed)
Drive axle nut - 103lb ft.
--
Steve W.
I've only seen a GM dealer hub that came without the sensor for that
very reason. Most of the aftermarket ones come with a fitted sensor.
Oh IF you did need to reuse the old sensor for some reason and it is a
bit long you can use a file and take a small amount off the sensor tip.
Just go slow and stop when it is free.
--
Steve W.
Near Cooperstown, New York
A couple weeks later, a friend of mine needed a CV shaft for his
Suburban. The bolts were from the outside, and we just spun them
out with a socket wrench. Much easier.
The guy who let us use his garage didn't have an air wrench, he
did everything by hand. I was really wishing I'd brought my plug
in impact wrench for the dissembly. For removing lugs, and other
such bolts. Would have made the job much easier.
--
Christopher A. Young
You can't shout down a troll.
You have to starve them.
.
"Steve W." <ya...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:f8o58i$vbb$1...@aioe.org...
: edk...@msn.com wrote:
:
: The hub assembly will cost you about 200/250 bucks. DON'T buy
Got it done yesterday. It all went smoothly. Used a gear puller to
slip the hub off the axel.
Well worth the time and effort.
Thanks agin for the good information.
Ed
Find a use for your old hub yet? I've turned a few into bar stools. Also
have made a few wind powered items using them as well.
My "offical" computer based GM dealer manual version Jume 2005 says
otherwise. It clearly speel of torque for front disk brake brackets.
It would take a bolt a lot bigger than those to relaibly take 133 ft
lbs without premature failure.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com
> Find a use for your old hub yet? I've turned a few into bar stools. Also
> have made a few wind powered items using them as well.
Don't the studs poke ya in the butt?
Cant make out half of what Snojob said but my gosh I have the "Service &
Parts Operations" disc too and heres what they say:
"Caliper Bracket to Knuckle Mounting Bolt (Dual Piston Front Caliper)
180 N·m 133 lb ft"
That is a direct copy and paste! Wow once again Snoball has failed to
figure out torque specs. Yeah big surprise.
(Now lets see which one of his lame insults he's going to use that we've
already heard a thousand times before.)
-----------------------------------
Snojob Follies:
SBJ: Dumb brake question
http://tinyurl.com/2ya3wo