Oil cooler line quick connects
89GMC
I replaced both fittings on my oil cooler lines where they go to the
oil filter adapter a few months ago when I had the adapter off to
replace the big o-ring in it.(Those not interested in a story please
skip down to paragraph 3 :-)) All was fine for about 1000 miles until
I take a long trip. Last sunday i'm up in ticonderoga NY the only
part of my 3 hr drive that i don't get cell phone service and the line
coming out of the filter adapter to the rad pops.
So I run out of oil, have to drive a mile, walked an hour, begged a
ride, got some oil and a new fitting and made it back to my truck. I
then burrowed through the snow I parked it in, tried to get the old
fitting off with the wrench I bought and couldn't swing it w/o taking
the oil filter off. What I could see is that the line came out of the
clip, I could see the nub that is on the line, that's how far out it
was. So I jam it back in, with vise grips, it feels like it clicks,
pour some oil in it, after a couple minutes tapping from the engine
goes away. I turn around and drive home and take the wife's car. 3
hour trip turned to 10.
Ok, now back from storytime.... Last night I crawl under there to
check it and the nub is popped out again. So I spend an hour taking
the old fitting off put the new fitting with new clip on, I had to put
it on first cuz i can't get a wrench on it with the line on. I
measure how far i think the line needs to go to click before I put it
on, and jam the line back in there. Now, I looked at the old and new
fittings side by side and they look the same, is there some trick to
these things? I think the new one is in there, i jammed that sucker
as hard as i could, i put vice grips on the line with some rubber hose
under em and used a wrench to wedge against it and pushed as hard as i
could. But now I'm scared to go on a long trip with this sucker, what
gives on these clips? Does anyone know of a better way? Should I try
and get custom lines made at a hydraulic shop? Those clips are the
sketchiest things i've ever seen considering what they do.
Thanks guys,
Ed
SnoMan
>Does anyone know of a better way? Should I try
>and get custom lines made at a hydraulic shop? Those clips are the
>sketchiest things i've ever seen considering what they do.
They are not troublesome as far as I am aware of. I do have a clue
here maybe though. It seems to be happening when it is cold out and
what grade oil are you using that migh be causing oil pressure to
skyrocket in cold especaily when engine is cold and you wind it up.
The clips will fail when pressure gets high enough.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com
Roy
"SnoMan" <ad...@snoman.com> wrote in message
news:t93gv2ps0bkco2qv9...@4ax.com...
> On 14 Mar 2007 07:10:32 -0700, "89GMC" <dzia...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>>Does anyone know of a better way? Should I try
>>and get custom lines made at a hydraulic shop? Those clips are the
>>sketchiest things i've ever seen considering what they do.
>
>
> They are not troublesome as far as I am aware of. I do have a clue
> here maybe though.
You haven't had a clue in your life.
It seems to be happening when it is cold out and
> what grade oil are you using that migh be causing oil pressure to
> skyrocket in cold especaily when engine is cold and you wind it up.
WTF! Are you out of your friggin' mind??? Guess they don't sell these trucks
in the northern states. The op's must have snuck in.
> The clips will fail when pressure gets high enough.
Pray tell at what pressure have you experienced a failure of the clips?
> -----------------
> TheSnoMan.com
89GMC
> "SnoMan" <a...@snoman.com> wrote in message
>
> news:t93gv2ps0bkco2qv9...@4ax.com...
>
> > On 14 Mar 2007 07:10:32 -0700, "89GMC" <dziar...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> >>Does anyone know of a better way? Should I try
> >>and get custom lines made at a hydraulic shop? Those clips are the
> >>sketchiest things i've ever seen considering what they do.
>
> > They are not troublesome as far as I am aware of. I do have a clue
> > here maybe though.
>
> You haven't had a clue in your life.
>
> It seems to be happening when it is cold out and
>
> > what grade oil are you using that migh be causing oil pressure to
> > skyrocket in cold especaily when engine is cold and you wind it up.
>
> WTF! Are you out of your friggin' mind??? Guess they don't sell these trucks
> in the northern states. The op's must have snuck in.
>
> > The clips will fail when pressure gets high enough.
>
> Pray tell at what pressure have you experienced a failure of the clips?
>
>
>
> > -----------------
>
> - Show quoted text -
When it failed the truck had been running for a good hour so it wasn't
cold, but for more info I'm using 10w30 mobil1 and the temp outside
was about 20 degrees if that helps.
89GMC
>
> - Show quoted text -
Am I crazy to just get some 3/8 npt to barb adapters and throw some
tranny cooler hose on there? I know I have to be careful around the
fan and rub points, but there is rubber in the middle now..... and I
could use the factory clip to keep it routed the same. Seems like this
is what comes with aftermarket oil cooler kits. I just don't want to
have to worry about this thing with my kids with me towing the trailer
this summer and I seriously have my doubts about those clips.....
SnoMan
>> WTF! Are you out of your friggin' mind??? Guess they don't sell these trucks
>> in the northern states. The op's must have snuck in.
The only one out of their mind is you Roy.
When you try to fix a problem for good you address ALL posiblities
because though it is not the case here with this poster I have seen
some that think it is okay to run 20w50 in a cold climate. Those clips
are not very viable and could tire with age and loose holding power.
You might make sure that the slot they ride in is clear of
obstructions and it lets clips fully seat. It is quite possible that
if this area is clear and clean and new clips are installed that the
problem will not return.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com
SnoMan
>Am I crazy to just get some 3/8 npt to barb adapters and throw some
>tranny cooler hose on there? I know I have to be careful around the
>fan and rub points, but there is rubber in the middle now..... and I
>could use the factory clip to keep it routed the same. Seems like this
>is what comes with aftermarket oil cooler kits. I just don't want to
>have to worry about this thing with my kids with me towing the trailer
>this summer and I seriously have my doubts about those clips.....
There are two reasons for those clips to begin with. The first was to
reduce assembly time when truck is built and the other is for GM to
patent its design to extract more money from replacement parts. Take
your pick as to which is more important to GM. I would not get in a
spin about this. If the clip comes loose there is a reason and find it
because there are ten of thousands of them out there and it is not a
common problem. I had one of these lines fail on my 2000 K3500 a year
ago just out of extened warranty. It rusted through after 36 K miles
if you can believe it and was starting to drip. I had no problems with
clip but had a LOT of problem with the fitting in tank as it was
rusted solid to the point I though I might have to replace the
radiator or at least the endcap and tank. I did get it loose finally.
Usually when these lines leak it is at where the metal line is swaged
to the rubber hose. Not a good design and GM could have used stainless
steel for these mission critical connection for engine oil and tranny
cooling. It would have cost them a few buck more for sure but given
price of truck it would be not a big issue to add a few dollars more
to its cost.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com
Roy
Note that once again you didn't answer the question!
> -----------------
> TheWrongAnswerMan.com
none2u
"Roy" <R...@home.net> wrote in message news:et9cq...@news1.newsguy.com...
>fittings or some other alternative from a high performance shop . Like
>summit racing for instance. Anything quick disconnect , could open from
>age, wear or vibration or poor quality control when made. Oil lines are
>critical. its not like an airhose in your garage that pops off when your
>using it , and its ok. Make something permanent and don't bother with it
>ever again.
shiden_kai
"89GMC" wrote
> Ok, 89 gmc k3500 454 th400 4wd
>
> I replaced both fittings on my oil cooler lines where they go to the
> oil filter adapter a few months ago when I had the adapter off to
> replace the big o-ring in it.(Those not interested in a story please
> skip down to paragraph 3 :-)) All was fine for about 1000 miles until
> I take a long trip. Last sunday i'm up in ticonderoga NY the only
> part of my 3 hr drive that i don't get cell phone service and the line
> coming out of the filter adapter to the rad pops.
Did you every replace the oil cooler lines themselves? If you
haven't done this, I would do it. Whenever I change oil cooler
lines (which is a lot as GM has issues with them), I always
include new fittings at the oil filter adapter. New line, new fitting,
really the only proper way to go, as I have seen these blow off.
Also, do you still have the plastic retainer rings on your oil cooler
lines that are designed to slide over the fitting where the snap ring
is located. This will keep the ring from popping out. But if you
have old lines, often this plastic retainer is brittle and broken or
simply not there anymore. You get new ones with the new set
of cooler lines.
Ian
Martin Riddle
news:1173881432.1...@n59g2000hsh.googlegroups.com...
There should be a bracket along side the oil pan that holds the lines in
place. This I believe keeps them from working out, cause you cant remove
them if the brackets in place.
Cheers
89GMC
Thanks for the info Ian, no I haven't replaced the lines yet, I only
replaced the fittings which came with the new plastic clips in them.
The one that I replaced seems fine but the other one even thought it's
only 1000 miles old, no matter how far I shoved it in there, it would
not seat in the clip. Are you saying that there is another piece that
should go over the line itself? On the line all I have is the
circular raised ridge. On the fitting I have some o-rings deep down
in there and then the clip that sticks all the way back out of the
fitting and has the two little clips on the side of it that look like
they are supposed to hold the line in.
Also do the new lines come with the fittings already on? If not do
you have a recommendation for how to make sure the new ones are
seated? Sorry if i'm a little paranoid on this now, I put the
fittings on first then the line in cuz i could only move the damn
fitting with a 12 point box end. But if i have to cut a notch in a
wrench i'm ok with that, if the ends should be put on before screwing
them in.
Thanks,
Ed
shiden_kai
"89GMC" wrote
> Thanks for the info Ian, no I haven't replaced the lines yet, I only
> replaced the fittings which came with the new plastic clips in them.
You know what, I'm thinking of a later style....sorry. The one
that you are fighting with use the plastic clips that are similiar to
fuel filter quick release fittings and heater hose quick release fittings.
Even with the old style that you have, I still always replaced the
cooler lines and fittings as a set. Never had a problem when done
that way.
You may need to unscrew the fitting and then install it on the end
of the cooler line and see what the hell is going on. You also need
to have the cooler line at the proper orientation going into the fitting,
the cooler lines have some slight bends in them and you may need to
rotate the line slightly to make sure you are lining it up properly with
the fitting.
Hope some of this helps.
Ian
89GMC
Thanks Ian, all of this definitely helps, sounds like it's time for
some new lines or at the very least to pull them off and see what's
up. Appreciate all the help.
Ed
aarcuda69062
SnoMan <ad...@snoman.com> wrote:
> When you try to fix a problem for good you address ALL posiblities
This cracks me up. Less than a week ago, you were chastising me
for this exact thing.
This means that you are either the worlds biggest hypocrite or
you've actually managed to learn something.
none2u
about my transmission
"aarcuda69062" <none...@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:nonelson-83C04F...@newsclstr02.news.prodigy.com...
aarcuda69062
"none2u" <non...@notrealatall.bye> wrote:
> "aarcuda69062" <none...@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
> news:nonelson-83C04F...@newsclstr02.news.prodigy.com...
> > In article <og9gv25ve3j73lgn5...@4ax.com>,
> > SnoMan <ad...@snoman.com> wrote:
> >
> >> When you try to fix a problem for good you address ALL posiblities
> >
> > This cracks me up. Less than a week ago, you were chastising me
> > for this exact thing.
> >
> > This means that you are either the worlds biggest hypocrite or
> > you've actually managed to learn something.
>
> You've mistaken me with somebody else, I haven't posted here since Jan
> about my transmission
??????
89GMC
>
> - Show quoted text -
Ian, you were right they needed to twist to get in there correctly. I
pulled the clamp and line off and once i twisted it went into the new
one a lil farther, also made sure the clamp that holds them to the
block was good and tight, lines looked ok no leaks, or rust(are they
aluminum?) so I didn't replace them. So far so good, thanks all for
the help.
Ed
89GMC
> "89GMC" <dziar...@gmail.com> wrote in message
>
> - Show quoted text -
Thanks Martin, good call I did notice that while I was under there,
once I took off the front skidplate the nut on that clamp was tight,
but the lines could still move a little, it's definitely a good
failsafe, and would have saved me a cold walk :) I ended up taking
down the clamp and nut and cleaning the threads up and put it back on,
nice and tight now, between that and the new ends/clips I think I'm
good to go. I'm starting to think now that these lines are not
original because they actually look to be in very good shape, I took
one out and it looked pretty darn good.
Thanks again for the help guys, seems to be up and ok so far,
Ed