Doc....
"Doc"
I fought the good fight.....and WON! No more code 43's. ESC system is
functioning as it should. The following is a lengthy but comprehensive
description on how to solve the problem.
First thing's first:
1) Have you checked the Knock Sensor (KS) wire that leads from the KS to
the wire grommet that runs behind the exhaust manifold? The wire has a
tendency to get lonely and decide to get it on with the manifold itself
(melting to the manifold in the process), causing a short circuit.
2) Have you R&R'ed the KS?
3) Have you R&R'ed the ESC (Electronic Spark Control) Module?
I did the following steps and STILL was getting code 43's. Here's how I
fixed it.
I learned that the EST (Electronic Spark Timing) system runs a self-check
each and every time you start her up. The test runs the first time the ECM
(engine control module) senses WOT (wide open throttle) after coolant has
reached at least 194F.
So, the first time you mash the go pedal after the engine has warmed up, the
ECM signals the ESC module to dial in as much advance as possible to induce
a knock to verify the system is working correctly. When the system senses a
knock, it backs the timing off and the test passes. If the ESC system
DOESN'T detect a knock, it simply assumes the system is shot, moves into
full spark retard to prevent engine damage, and sets code 43. In all
reality, the ESC system may be fully functioning, but if no knock is
present, the system just assumes it's not working.
The symptoms I was experiencing (and you too at this point) fit perfectly
with the self test process. You mash the pedal, get a massive surge of
power (ESC dialing in tons of advance to induce knock as part of the
self-test process), then get a massive bog (ESC self-test fails and defaults
to full spark retard), and code 43 is set.
I then thought to myself, if knock is what the ESC wants, knock is what
it'll get! I adjusted the ignition timing, and dialed in more advance, one
degree at a time, until the system was able to produce a knock during the
self-test process. Belive it or not, 4 additional degrees of advance was
enough to clear the codes.
Sometimes the simplest explanation is the right one eh? Start dialing in
more advance, a degree at a time until code 43 is no more. If you are
unfamiliar with this process (a few additional steps are required to set
timing on computer controlled engines), post back to the group and I'll run
it by you a step at a time.
Hope this helps!
Doc
"Sean" <st...@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:IXI99.20541$cH2.1...@ursa-nb00s0.nbnet.nb.ca...
> Yo Doc,
>
> How's the battle going with the code 4# sega? Did you finally beat it and
> what did you do if you did?
> I was driving last night and just when I thought I wouldnt see the code
> again it popped up....
> The usual..... pedal to the metal..... great instant pick-up then bog
right
> down.... SES light comes on... you know the drill :)
>
> Sean
>
>
Martin Riddle
Just curious.
""Doc"" <som...@nowhere.net> wrote in message
news:VLS99.461$iK1.18...@newssvr16.news.prodigy.com...
Gary Glaenzer
"Martin Riddle" <martin...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:ceW99.5526$ob2.4...@newsread1.prod.itd.earthlink.net...
Martin Riddle
manual for this fault.
"Gary Glaenzer" <nobul...@mchsi.com> wrote in message
news:AmW99.69266$aA.13955@sccrnsc02...
"Doc"
It doesn't matter when the timing is set, as base-spark timing is something
the ECM can't change as the distributor has to be physically moved to do so.
Follow these steps:
1) Reset (clear codes) from the ECM.
2) Fire her up and dial in 1 degree of advance per timing setting
instructions on fan shroud label (EST must be disabled to set base-timing)
Or post back and I'll tell ya how.
3) Drive her for a few days and see if the codes disappear. If they do,
yee-haw! If not, repeat steps 1-3 until they're gone.
Or you could take a really simple approach and forget about the timing light
and just move the distributor a few degrees counter clockwise to accomplish
the same thing!
Take er' easy!
Doc