Recurve setup .
Jesse
into archery and possibly bowhunting. I have just recently been given as
an early Christmas present a Red Wing Hunter Recurve . It is a 58" 50lb
bow .My father in law has had it restrung with a new 16 strand Dacron
string and purchased for me an armguard and glove.He used to make is own
wooden arrows.I am not sure I want to go that route.Can some one
recommend what arrows to purchase .I have a 28.5" draw and I am not
sure about what grain field point or broadhead to use.I was told that I
would need feathers intead of vanes for the fletching .Is this true?
I want to keep this as simple as possible .Don't need any fancy gadgets,
plus I am on a budget .Is making my own wooden arrows affordable or
should I look to aluminum or carbon .
Gary
Gary
Miss Elaine Eos
Jesse <jess...@earthlink.net> wrote:
There's a lot of opinion (like feathers vs vanes), a lot of data and a
lot of stuff to confuse the new people. I'm sure you'll get a few
responses here but, rather than duplicate information that others have
said better, I will suggest that you spend some time looking at
In particular, try some searches on "bowhunter", "new", "inexpensive",
"vanes vs feathers", "starter bows", etc.
FWIW, I got a Bear Game Over this year, and am loving it. It's far more
accurate than I'll ever be, and just a good, solid bow for the money. I
shoot carbon w/100g field tips and 125g broadheads. I have some vanes,
but prefer FOBs (http://www.starrflight.com), especially for hunting. I
got the very-straight Victory arrows (forget the number), thinking it
was important not to miss when shooting at an animal. Or, if I miss, I
want it to be my fault, not my gear.
All that said, there is a LOT of very nice modern gear out there.
Dozens of manufacturers, hundreds of sizes, colors & styles. And
they're all darned good. Take with a grain of salt any advice of the
form "XYZ is The Best, ABC only makes crap" -- folks get excited; it's
like Ford vs Chevy, Mac/PC, Harley/Other, etc. :)
I'm also of the opinion that 50lb is too much for someone just starting.
You may be strong and all, but a lightweight recurve (20-25lb) will help
you focus on form and not be wrestling with the bow while you're trying
to focus. You can always "up" to a heavier bow later but, when you're
starting, it's critical to develop good habits and form, and being
over-bowed makes that difficult.
Good luck!
--
Please take off your pants or I won't read your e-mail.
I will not, no matter how "good" the deal, patronise any business which sends
unsolicited commercial e-mail or that advertises in discussion newsgroups.
David Kerridge
Hello! My name is Dave, I live in northern lower Michigan, and I have
been bow hunting for about 50 years, I've taken Black Bears, caribou,
Mule Deer and White Tail deer. I have used both recurve and compound
bows, but I have gone back to my first love, the recurve. I even shoot
the recurve in the State and National Senior and earned gold silver and
bronze medals in competition, I've even shot along side Earl Hoyt and
taken his advise, after all he was the greatest authority on target
archery that I've ever heard of.
Well here goes my opinion. Like it or not, it is easier to shoot a
longer bow accurately than a short or magnum bow, its not that one is
better than the other, its like the accuracy you can get with a rifle
over a handgun, its just easier. All of the bows used in the Olympics
are recurves, and they are from 68 to 72 inches in length and have draw
weights from 28 to 36 pounds. In the Senior Olympics the same is true,
but there they have compound bow classes as well as the recurve.
Shooting distances are 40, 50 and 60 yards. My wife shoots a compound
and she is 60 years young and she can put her arrows in a target the
size of a mans head all day long at 60 yards, with my recurve, I can
keep them inside a peck basket at the same distance.
Now for some hunting comments. I knew Fred Bear, what a neat guy. He
gave me a few good pointers. If you don't want to practice a lot, then
take up another sport, the animals deserve your best effort. If you
constantly shoot 50 plus arrows per day, you will be ready and worthy
for any game your seeking, I really get into the worthy thing, probably
because I'm half American Indian. For hunting, 4 to 5 inch helical
feather fletching is the best way to go, the only draw back is if your
out in the rain, they will get and this can affect their accuracy, but
there are waterproof sprays that help a lot. As far as type of
shafting, I still prefer Port Orford Cedar shafting, they are much
quieter than anything else. I use a simple flipper arrow rest and a
leather shooting glove. A note on camouflage, If you've ever seen Fred
in movies, just think, did you ever see him in all that cammo stuff, the
secret is the quiet stalk with the wind in your favor, I have on many
occasions stalked to within 25 feet of 3 or more bedded deer and they
never knew I was there. Broadhead, I prefer a simple two blade
broadhead, sharp enough to shave with, and field tips of the same
weight. Bow weight, 40 to 50 pounds, very often you will have to shoot
very fast, like Fred did, so practice that, compounds are a serious
drawback here.
Hope all this helps. Ya Ya everyone has their own opinions, but as long
as I have been doing this, what I do works for me.
Dave