Japanese media reporting on whale meat market
david @ tokyo
representative of the perspective one gets reading about the whale meat
market in the Japanese language media on my blog
(http://david-in-tokyo.blogspot.com). Quite a contrast with the western
media...
Whale meat abundance - Fisheries Agency in all out marketing effort,
but prices high
2006 / 09 / 10 - 13:37
Whale meat is piling up. This is due to the drastic reduction in sales
channels following the 1988 cessation in commercial whaling, in
contrast to increasing supply from expanded research whaling
programmes. As the Fisheries Agency looks to market the by-products as
"health food" to schools and hospitals, schools and the restaurant
industry have been seen introducing whale meat in lunches and new
dishes. However, state circumstances require that the wholesale price
of the meat, proceeds of which are required to cover the costs of
research whaling, cannot be lowered, meaning that there is still a long
way to go before prices are at a level where whale meat can easily be
enjoyed at household dinner tables.
A base for the marketing of whales caught in the deep-seas is a room in
a high class apartment building in Roppongi, Tokyo. "Geishoku Labo" is
a new company established in May with the backing of the Fisheries
Agency. Here at a large table in the reception room, customers are
served with whale dishes.
"Everyone is surprised - 'Did it used to be so delicious?'" says
company president Hiroshi Nakata. He says that whale meat is popular
for it's low calories and cholesterol, with several retailers providing
hospitals, schools and company cafeterias with lunches having displayed
an interest.
A large cafeteria operator, Nikkoku Trust of Tokyo, has plans to use
whale meat for it's special menu. "It should be popular amongst older
people for it's nostalgic taste, and amongst younger people for it's
intrigue. But it's still expensive so we can't use it as a regular menu
item", said a company representative.
Behind the establishment of the new company is a "whale surplus".
With the expansion of research whaling, whale meat supply is now more
than twice the level of a decade ago.
However, in the 20 years since the cessation in commercial whaling, the
majority of marine product wholesalers have ceased to deal in whale
meat, and thus distribution has not kept up with these increases.
Due to this, at the end of last year the whale meat stockpile stood at
3,900 tonnes, equivalent to annual supply. Next year with a further
expansion in whaling, an additional 1,500 tonnes is forecast to be
taken, bringing the total catch to 5,500 tonnes.
There are also moves towards utilizing the extra whale meat. In
Wakayama, in an effort to pass on local traditions that flourished
based around old style whaling, around 70% of primary schools will be
including such menus as whale meat tatsuta-age in school lunches once
every 2 months from this fiscal year. There is also an expansion in the
capital region, and according to Tokyo's Japanese Whaling Association,
approximately 3,500 schools nationwide now include whale meat in lunch
menus.
Lucky Pierrot, a hamburger restaurant with shops in the area around the
research whaling mother port of Hakodate, Hokkaido, has been selling
whale meat hamburgers for 380 yen since last year. Amongst the 20 or so
types of burger on offer, it is the 2nd most popular. "We only just
turn a profit on it. But we hope to continue to support our food
culture" says the managing director, Miku Oh.
However, despite these moves whale meat is not often seen on the
street. Even where it is sold, 100 grams typically costs 450 yen. In a
store specialising in marine products, popular bacon blocks were on
sale at the high price of 2,500 yen per 100 grams.
Sales of the whale by-products go towards financing research whaling.
The wholesale price of whale meat, set each year by the Fisheries
Agency in order to cover the annual whaling costs of approximately 6
billion yen, is now half the price at it's peak, down to 2,000 yen with
the increase in supply.
However, supply is still limited, and standard retail prices are 3
times as high as wholesale. The government is unable to lower the
wholesale price due the requirement to cover whaling costs.
Nakata of Geishoku Labo smiles wryly, "The Fisheries Agency is telling
me that 'we want you to sell the meat but don't overstimulate the
market'". There is a desire to re-establish distribution channels with
an eye to the resumption of commercial whaling, but even so for the
foreseeable future, as supply is limited, there is a concern that too
much demand would result in supply not keeping pace.
There are also concerns that overheated Japanese demand, which in the
case of tuna beckoned over-exploitation overseas and illegal
trafficking, could result in a deterioration of recovered whale
resources. "We don't want to repeat the tuna mistakes, but we'd like to
supply whale meat to households at at least prices comparative to
tuna," says Hideki Moronuki of the Fisheries Agency's Whaling section.