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I would like to say that I had several offers of help via email, but it
would be too time and labor intensive to try that. I don't even know what
questions to begin with. I have tried to get a couple of videos, and they
skip right from "this is an airbrush" to "and this is a finished paint job"
with no steps in between.
I have tried to contact a couple of shops around here that I suspect use
airbrushes for custom paint jobs, but they won't talk to me. I try to make
it clear that I will work for them for FREE for years to come (I have a
regular job) and will sign a "no compete" contract with them, but I don't
think they understand what I am offering, or they don't believe me.
There isn't anybody around here who will admit to what kind of equipment
they use, or how they accomplish their appointed task. There aren't even
any t-shirt airbrushers in this town.
I have contacted artists, schools, sign shops, auto shops, bike shops,
studios, graphic artists, embroiderers, print shops, hobby stores, craft
stores, paint stores, airbrush sales people at these stores locally,
continuing education departments, every body I can possibly think of that
might be able to help me or give me a lead as to who in the area might use
an airbrush, and be able or willing to give me some lessons. To no avail.
The college use to give airbrush lessons about five years ago, and quit for
a "drastic decline in the demand".
You might have much better luck than me, because I have to live in the
armpit of the world. The most backasswards town on the planet.
DON'T EVER MOVE TO EAST TEXAS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Or better yet, someone please do, I will pay you for lessons. I will be
your slave. I promise to never use the knowledge gained in competition with
you. I promise to never compete with you in any way whatsoever, for any
reason under the sun. I pledge my undying loyalty and will defend you
against any attacker whether the weapon is pen or sword.
jh
"sue" <bayo...@snet.net> wrote in message
news:S8hF6.1221$3x.3...@typhoon.snet.net...
Lightnen
http://www.coastairbrush.com/93.html
http://members.aol.com/gemartschl/
I suggest the Craig Fraser book "Automotive Cheap Tricks an Special Effects"
along with any of his Automotive Airbrush videos. The thing about his book and
videos is he shows you many different ways to layout and transfer your designs.
He also does this on metal sign blanks, which can be ordered from many places
including Coast airbrush (1st Link). He aslo has a website at
http://www.gotpaint.com
I also suggest the "The House of Kolor Automotive Urethane Paint System" video
by Dave Monnig. This will give you a better understanding of the House of Kolor
paint system that is wildly popular among many top custom airbrushers/painters.
He also has a video that that explains what type of equipment you may want to
use for different types of jobs. Right now you can order any three videos for
$75! That is a good deal. I am in the same boat as you are here in Detroit
where there's a collision/paint shop on every corner and in between! You
problem with finding someone to mentor your airbrushing is not exclusive to East
Texas. I think that the competitiveness of this industry makes people hard
pressed to part with tricks of the trade that may have taken them a lifetime to
learn or invent. I understand that you are willing to go the "no compete
clause" route but I doubt they would take your word for it if they don't know
you. You have to understand that they do this as their lively hood and probably
aren't willing to create competition, or are just straight out to busy to teach
since this business revolves around deadlines for work to be done. But then
again, some people are just flat out assholes. Anyway, check out the links and
see whats out there and don't give up on trying to learn. Their are many nice
people on this newsgroup that give out very good info and opinions. I
personally have had a lot of "stupid" questions answered here. Don't be afraid
to ask!!! Thats the biggest thing. I hope this helps and didn't put you t
sleep while reading this.
Later,
Gary
Just do a search for Auto Graphics there.
These magazines cover airbrushing on cars, motorcycles and so on.
They are excellent. I used to do that for a living, and learned most
of what I needed to know from them.
There really isn't THAT much to it. I wouldn't work in a shop for
free for more than a day or two to learn this, unless they have an
airbrusher to help teach you things. Get yourself a motorcycle tank
or car hood from a junkyard and go to it.
Wash the hood really well.
Take a green 'scotchbrite' pad and 'wet scuff' it. (Have a trickle of
water running over your scotch brite pad while you scuff). You don't
want any shiny areas where you're going to paint. As an alternative
you could wet sand it with 800 grit wet/dry sandpaper.
Use automotive urethane paint. House of kolors sells small kits to
get you started. I think Coast Airbrush carries these kits. Or, just
for practice (not for production) use t-shirt paint.
Wear a resporator while you are painting. Read the reduction ratio.
If you are painting on a dark base you will probably want to lay out
your underpainting in various shades of white/grey and detail with
black. Then use toners to color the project in.
Start simple.
These magazines will be worth gold to you if you really want to learn
this stuff. They were to me.
On Tue, 24 Apr 2001 11:42:03 -0400, "sue" <bayo...@snet.net> wrote:
Really a lot of learning the airbrush depends on just messing around
with it. I ran a sign and graphics shop for many years, and did a lot of
custom vans, bikes, helmets, etc...
If you want to learn how to do it, a good way to start is by going to a
local junkyard and picking up a car door, fender, or the like. Just make
sure the paint is in good shape. buy a couple of books to give you some
idea of the basics- there are a lot out there, and they are all about
the same in covering the essentials, I think, and get a few basic tools:
1- a double action airbrush of medium size. I use a Paasche VL, but
there are a lot of good ones out there. Buy a kit if you can, that has
bottles, a cup, hose, and several tips and needles of different sizes.
2- buy some frisket, high and low tack, and a couple of Xacto knives.
3- buy a pad of tracing paper and some transfer paper (like carbon paper
but non-greasy)
4- buy some airbrush paint. Almost all paints are acrylic-based,
water-soluble stuff, and will intermix with each other to some degree.
Createx seems to be the most widely-sold brand these days, and it has
several bonders, catalysts, etc. that will mix with their products for
specific adhesion purposes. Some of these bondo products won't work with
other brands. You will need some basic colors, and try to get some
opaques and transparents.
5- buy a few good brushes- I like to use a #5-7 sable, a #1 or 2 sable,
and keep some #0, 00, and 000 spotters handy
6- get yourself an air supply with a moisture trap and regulator. Canned
air, the stuff in spray-cans, isn't worth the expense and isn't very
good in relaibility. Use co2 tanks or Diver's compressed air from a
welding supply if you can't afford a compressor... most airbrushers buy
compressors eventually, though. I prefer co2 if I can't use a
compressor because it's cheap, dry, and non-flammable gas.
7- sand the door from the junkyard with some 600 grit wet-dry sandpaper
and put some art on it. You will probably screw it up, but that's ok-
learning curve here- then hose it off and do it again.
8- If you have uncooperative auto body guys in your area, so what? You
are doing art, not repainting car panels. If you need your art
clearcoated, auto paint supply stores are very helpful and
knowledgeable. (that's where the auto body painters get their info and
products, too). If you have some good stuff that needs a clearcoat and
you're apprehensive about doing the clear, get an auto body painter to
put some on.... that's what they do all the time. Find one who will work
with you- when you walk in the door with your art, YOU are the customer,
and they will have a mucyh different attitude.
9- Above all- remember that there is no "right" or "best " way! The
airbrush is just another artist's tool. It ain't all that hard to learn,
but never forget that you are an artist first and a technician second.
Use the airbrush where it's advantageous, and use a hair brush where
it's best for the job. A lot of airburshers try to do effects like wood
grain, rocks, etc. with only an airbrush, when underpainting or
overpainting with a hair brush renders a better final look. Art first
and always!
10- Enjoy yourself. If you are miserable, frustrated, mystified, or
whatever, either learn what you need to learn or put the airbrush in a
drawer and save it for another day. Some folks find that they just
aren't cut out for the tool, and there's nothing wrong with that... it
is exactly like discovering that pastel or some other medium isn't right
for them. It is just a tool and it isn't that hard to master. Go for it!
Stanger
Lightnen
On Fri, 27 Apr 2001 14:43:04 -0700, "lightnen" <ligh...@mnsi.net>
wrote:
On Fri, 27 Apr 2001 14:43:04 -0700, "lightnen" <ligh...@mnsi.net>
wrote:
>Hay there Guy if those Mag's don't sell on e-bay Why not put a posting here
Mike
--
"Truth is so obscure in these times and falsehood so established, that
unless we love the truth, we cannot know it."- Blaise Pascal
<gfrede...@home.com> wrote in message news:3AE97F2B...@home.com...
I saw something this weekend that gave me one of those "aha" type moments.
I understand it a bit more, yet I still don't have the motor skills to be
able to apply the theory and concept.
I have been practising with my basic strokes and have found that my gun is
very finicky. I have a VL (actually two) and just bought a no. 1 tip and
needle set the other day and put it all together with the new stuff after a
thorough cleaning. When I fill the jar up with paint and start spraying it
doesn't start when I pull the trigger, it takes a second to kick in, and I
don't mean right after installing the jar for the first time, I mean every
time I pull the trigger, it takes a second, and almost all the time when I
am letting off the trigger it has a burst of color come out. Makes it
almost impossible for me to get a good line without having big circles on
each end. And I usually have to have the pressure on so high so as to make
the paint have that spatter effect, the little starburst. for now I am
using cheap paint for practice, and thinning it with an extender so it won't
dry as bad on the tip.
Anybody know what I am doing wrong???
jh
<gfrede...@home.com> wrote in message news:3AE97F2B...@home.com...
I have a pretty extensive collection of scrap sheet metal handy. I work in
a shop that has over a quarter million pounds of sheet metal currently on
hand. We have a bay of three racks, that has 18 columns, with each column
holding four rolls of sheet metal weighing in at about an average of 12000
pounds each. I wanna drive the overhead crane that moves the stuff so bad.
It looks like a really cool gizmo.
My home setup I have two VL's, both with a host of accessories. A
campbell/hausfield 5 horse 12 gallon comp. that is loud as hell, but I
don't mind the noise, as long as the neighbors don't say anything. I also
have a CO2 system scavenged from a friend that use to grow things indoors.
It is a twenty pound cylinder I think, about a couple feet tall. Lots and
lots of connectors and air tool accessories, enough to run several
airbrushes at the same time.
I have some things I have been trying to use as mask, but I just can't cut
out stencils very good at all. I have a great big set of exacto knives, and
I can't cut through the stuff I have very easy even with a brand new blade.
This stuff is kinda hard, I can't remember what it is called, but it's like
the transparency sheets for overhead projectors at school, remember those??
I got some contact paper the other night I am going to try and see if it
works better. One question I have about the tacky stuff, and the stuff you
have to spray an artist's adhesive to hold in place, these things are flat,
how do you get them to conform to helmets, and curved automotive
surfaces?????
Tracing paper and transfer paper, need some, will get. I also need some of
the basic supplies of prepping the surface, I don't know much about this
aspect of it and have held off trying to buy stuff until I have a pretty
good idea of what I need and why I need it.
I have lots of paints, mostly generic stuff, but they do sell Createx
acrylics at my local hobbylobby, I wish they sold the autoair. Not a very
big selection tho, and only the basic colors, no additives, clears,
extenders, etc.
I am trying to do what you suggest, tho I don't know a lot about the basics
of surface prep, finish, clear, etc. Or what kinds of paints and clears are
compatible. I want to eventually be able to do my own clearcoat, it's just
that I don't know anything about it, not that I don't want to.
jh
"Mike" <msta...@onewest.net> wrote in message
news:3AE9A79A...@onewest.net...
The sheet metal you mentioned will work for practice if you want to
paint it with some car paint, but an old door is better, because it's
already painted. It is also curved, may have chrome trim, etc., which
are all elements you need to know how to work around if you want to
really learn auto graphics. Flat panels don't give you the experience of
dealing with the real life problems you will encounter on cars and
trucks.
As far as prepping goes- all you really need for prepping auto work is a
few things.
1- You want good adhesion, both of your work and the clearcoats that
will follow. To make sure you have good adhesion, you will want to strip
off any wax/dirt/silicones that may be on the surface. First, wash the
panel thoroughly with soap and water. Then use some wax stripper. Some
wax strippers also remove silicones, which are very probelmatic. If you
see any fisheyeing in the soap and water wash, plan to deal with
silicone. Have a good supply of clean rags, and change rags very often
when using the stripper.(This lifts the silicone off the surface and
gets it away. Otherwise, you will just spread it around). I like to use
the Scott wipes for this- they are clothlike heavy paper towels that
come in packs.
2- After stripping the wax, clean the door again with 409, which is real
strong and will cut the cleaner and any wax residue off the surface. It
may also take a little paint with it. Then do this step again. Wipe the
door dry, and you're ready to go. Essentially, with this step, you are
preparing the surface for the use of water based paints.
3- If your airbrush paint isn't adhering well at this point, you may
want to scuff the area with some 400 or 600 wet-dry sandpaper to tooth
it up. Clean again with the 409 to get the paint dust off the surface.
As far as clearcoating and panel painting; as I mentioned before, you
are dealing with two essentially different things here. You will have to
decide for yourself how much of a technician you want to be. Do you
consider yourself a craftsman or an artist? If you want to learn the
craft of autobody paint and surface repair well enough to be an expert
clear coater, you'll need to either go to a school for the trade or get
on with a body shop doing the grunt work. If you want to produce art,
then just find yourself an autobody guy who will do the clearcoating for
you, and simply hang out and watch and learn as he does the work.
Believe me- if your art is good, it won't be long until these guys are
calling you up to do some jobs for them... the art is the one thing that
they can't do well.
More than anything else- at this point in the game, EXPECT to screw
things up! Expect to try something and have problems of incompatibility,
adhesion, etc. That's the quickest way to learn what will work and what
won't!
Remember that the airbrush is just another tool in getting the job done.
I once did an award winning van that was widely featured in a bunch of
magazines and a hard cover book; on this job, I mostly used conventional
brushes, and painted with tube acrylics. I only used the airbrush for
sky, background work, and a few effects. On hard surfaces, the new fluid
acrylics that have been developed over the past 10 years really work
well with brush and airbrush equally, so don't discount conventional
tools, and use them wherever they'll work best for you.
To mask curved surfaces requires lots of smaller wedge-shaped pieces of
frisket. On cycle tanks, helmets, etc. I lay my tracing paper drawing
on the surface first and determine where the frisket will need to be
tight and smooth. These areas will require smaller pieces of frisket,
and they go on first. On areas that I see will simply need to be
protected from overspray, I'll let the frisket develop wrinkles to
follow the curves. Often, I'll slap some tape around the edge of the
tight frisket before I put the overspray frisket on, just to give me a
quick guide as to what is what.
Another thing to think about- if you're still learning how to handle the
airbrush, you may want to learn on more forgiving surfaces. Primed
masonite panels are good for this; the stuff is hard, but more porous
than metal, and can be primed and painted with about anything from house
paints to car paints. Hot pressed illustration board is also very good
to learn on, too, and presents a lot of the same problems you may
encounter with metal.
Airbrushing is very versatile, and you may find that your best market
isn't even in the auto/bike area! Right now, for example, I'm
concentrating on stringed instruments and fine art, but in the past,
I've made a lot of money doing murals in buildings, restoration of
ceramic figurines, model airplanes and Ho guage trains, etc.... lotsa
ways to make money with the blast, for sure! Keep lots of options at
hand, is all I'm saying.
Good luck- hope this helps!
Stanger
Art is one of those things that escapes me. I just have never been any good
at it. At best I could botch a copy of someone else's work, I sure have
never created any of my own. If I have a picture I might be able to copy
it, prolly not, but maybe.
I want to be able to do this just for the sake of doing a scene on my own
tailgate. I don't want anybody else to do it, I want ME to do it. I want
to learn how to do this for me, not for love, not for money, not for fame or
notoriety. I want to do this. I.
jh
"Mike" <msta...@onewest.net> wrote in message
news:3AE9A834...@onewest.net...
The way I see it is you have to crawl before you walk, and walk before you
run. I just want to be able to stick some paint to a piece of sheet metal
without it peeling right back off. Then my next goal is actually being able
to paint something somebody else besides me will recognize. I think my
first step is actually some drawing classes. It seems you have to be able
to draw the picture in pencil onto whatever surface you want it on. I din't
know that. Now I do. Time to learn to draw. First things first.
Thanks for your replies, and the others who replied privately who didn't
have a bunch of smart-ass shit to say. I gained a lot from these people,
even tho' I am not actually closer to being able to accomplish my task. I
now know the steps involved in that task, and can now make a plan of action.
and now I hope I can learn how to do this and become a badass at it. I will
take my stuff to those guys who blew me off and flaunt it in their face.
Piss on em.
But the point is that I thank the people who had honest, sincere replies
that were helpful, it is very much appreciated.
jh
"Mike" <msta...@onewest.net> wrote in message
news:3AEEDCF8...@onewest.net...
I have been to the Texas State Fair once. ONCE. I don't believe I will
ever go back. I mean, not during the fair. I do like going to the
fairgrounds, watch the sharks eat, go across the street to that dingy little
tattoo parlor get some ink. Remember the name of that bar that has an
incorporated washateria inside?? Wash some clothes, and wash down some
brews at the same time, what a concept.
I don't think that would be the best place or time to start asking about
"how do I do that"?? I just thought maybe I would find someone who lives
kinda close to me that wanted some free labor. Someone else mentioned they
might not believe me when I tell them I would not compete, which is why I
would sign a contract, a binding agreement that has recourse and remedy for
the injured party if the covenant is broken.
But that's okay too, it won't be the first thing I have had to learn how to
do all by myself. Hell, I grew up without parents, and I can feed myself.
Must be doing something right. I was just hoping to get into a situation
where I would have a teacher, in a hands on environment, I do much better in
the classroom, than at home with a book. I learn by watching, and seeing it
done, then copying and imitating. But that's just me.
Thanks for the suggestion, I just don't think it's very wise. If he was
there every week, then it would be ok. Not smart, because I imagine that
every one and his dog would have already asked by now.
jh
"DamselNDistress" <nog...@yet.com> wrote in message
news:n74ret8jt4m9j7m9d...@4ax.com...
Another tip- when you're sketching out an idea, it's handy to have a set
of colored pencils at hand. I usually work out my sketches in pencil on
tracing paper so I can overlay another piece and combine seperate
elements. Sometimes I'll use my projector to copy an image onto tracing
paper as well, especially if something has a lot of tedious sketch time
involved in it. Then, when the pencil is where I want it, I'll run it
through a copier and make a couple of copies. I use colored pencils on
the copies to get my color theme down, so I have a real good idea of
what I'm doing before I even kick on the compressor. You can also use
markers, water colors, or even your airbrush paint for the coloring- I
like the pencils because they are quick and transparent.
The advance work you do will really make a big difference in the final
job, both in time and quality of work. Sometimes, the sketching part of
the work is a lot harder, takes longer, and is more involved than the
spray work, especially if I get into some complex masking or something
with a lot of elements going on. I'll have up to 15 little hunks of
tracing paper with element on them sometimes, all over the floor and
board, getting lost while I'm waiting to transfer them to the final
work. Gotta love it!
Stanger
p.s.- In my previous post, I forgot to mention that you can use all
those sheet metal scraps for practice just fine. Degrease them with
acetone, clean them with 409 afterwards, then use a can of sray primer
and a can of spray paint on them for your background. I go down to the
Ace hardware here and just pick up a couple of cans for that purpose,
and I like to practice on the big popcorn tins you see all over the
place. Eat the popcorn while your'e working on the tin.
Was that Kent Lind or Pat Reynolds who was the "other famous artist" with
Terry Hill?
Mike
--
"Truth is so obscure in these times and falsehood so established, that
unless we love the truth, we cannot know it."- Blaise Pascal
"DamselNDistress" <nog...@yet.com> wrote in message
news:n74ret8jt4m9j7m9d...@4ax.com...
Incidentally, on a side note, I found a sign shop a couple days ago that I
hadn't called yet. I put off calling them because I figured they only did
vinyl and other such stuff. As I drove by the other night, I glimpsed a
part of their ad that said auto graphics. WooHoo!!! So I called them up
and we talked for quite some time. Extremely nice fella, right around the
corner from my house. He said he didn't do much airbrushing because those
were his most expensive jobs, and he only sprays signs, not autos or tanks,
etc. The auto graphics were like the vinyl stickers for windows and such.
But he did say I was welcome to come by and check out his setup, and use it
anytime I wanted to try and learn, but he couldn't really give me any
instruction.
I asked about being able to watch him on an upcoming airbrush job, he said
when he got another that would be ok.
I can't believe he offered to let me come in and sorta take over the spray
booth, he seemed to imply that I was welcome to come in as much and as often
as I want. Said he was all for someone learning, he would help anyway he
could, but he just didn't feel like he could teach, time constraints
prevented it, and he also said he wasn't sure if he could teach this stuff
if he tried. But he doesn't use the airbrush much either, so he's not a pro
at it, he just knows a thing or two, and he only uses it for very specific
purposes, like nature scenes. I kinda feel like a turd in a punch bowl
going up there and trying to paint some stuff in his shop. It would be nice
tho'. As I am kinda cramped on space and a good place to spray.
I might check into it. It might turn out to be a good thing.
jh
"Mike" <msta...@onewest.net> wrote in message
news:3AF038D7...@onewest.net...
I have been trying my practice projects with assorted surfaces, mostly trash
cardboard boxes (not wax coated), I have tried some fabrics, but they still
get the little spiders and star bursts. I still haven't figured out what I
am doing wrong, that's why I need someone who can watch me and say "no, no,
NO, you #$%^(#$%& idiot, do it this way". Someone I can just watch. And if
I learn how to deal with certain problems from the getgo, then I will have
them licked all the way through this struggle. I get spiders on fabric, so
obviously I am a screw up. That is why I threw all my little pellon squares
away, I still got the same results. And I did try some acrylic enamel on
some aluminum before, the prethinned stuff, I didn't add anything at all to
it, just used it like it was, and that was the best yet, no spidering, nice
even coat. Just had to stop using it, don't have adequate ventilation. But
now that I have a connection with a spray booth designed just for this type
of thing, I might have to start doing that more. Get some more of those
acrylic/enamels and play with them. First things first, I have to prep one
of those panels and see if it will work at all, or if I am going to have to
start all over with the learning process.
jh
"DamselNDistress" <nog...@yet.com> wrote in message
news:qd70ftc54aadl5g0v...@4ax.com...
On Thu, 03 May 2001 01:51:08 GMT, "Michael V" <airbru...@home.com>
wrote:
Mike
--
"Truth is so obscure in these times and falsehood so established, that
unless we love the truth, we cannot know it."- Blaise Pascal
"DamselNDistress" <nog...@yet.com> wrote in message
news:t5n2ftoqmivsaubqg...@4ax.com...
If it's real easy to do, then I am sure some of the people here would like
to see them, and as few messages as this group gets daily, I don't think
anybody would complain about binaries being posted. It wouldn't bother me,
but then again I have a high speed connection.
I like looking at other people's artistic accomplishments. I am on this box
every night of the week looking through websites and message boards,
checking out all the pics I can look at.
If it's not that much trouble for you, and the folks here don't mind, I
would like to see them here, but you don't have to send them to just me, for
just my sake. Or maybe a spinoff newsgroup can be started for
airbrush.binaries.
jh
"Mike" <msta...@onewest.net> wrote in message
news:3AF186CA...@onewest.net...
On Fri, 04 May 2001 04:52:28 GMT, "Michael V" <airbru...@home.com>
wrote:
>Reminded you of an old hippie? Hmmm. Did he have an accent? Sounds a little
Which brings up another question. On average about how many new messages do
you guys see on this ng per day?? I only get about 5-10, do I just have a
really crappy newsfeed????
jh
"DamselNDistress" <nog...@yet.com> wrote in message
news:35q2ftkr1ovcovtpd...@4ax.com...
I will plan a trip soon. I guess at this point, anything would help.
jh
"--Shiva--" <shiv...@pcis.net> wrote in message
news:9cs7ls$9mr$2...@63.78.119.62...
> On Thu, 3 May 2001 02:51:42 -0500, "james" <pyr...@tyler.net>
> wrote:
>
>
> >I have been trying my practice projects with assorted surfaces, mostly
trash
> >cardboard boxes (not wax coated), I have tried some fabrics, but they
still
> >get the little spiders and star bursts.
>
> too high a pressure, or too thin a paint
> I use Cretex straight from the bottle, on cloth, and when that
> happens its either or... OR the material has soaked up paint and
> is no longer porous
>
> another thing, LIBRARY....
> go get all the books they got on airbrushing, and READ...
> One got one once, that gave a problem section-if the paint is
> doing this, then THIS is what's wrong, and gave a list...
> THAT applies no matter what the material/paint you are dealing
> with...
> take car body paint, turn the pressure WAY UP, and it will
> spider especially if the gun is too close. this don't matter
> which gun, either...
> I spray cloth at 20# and have no problems, but when I get the big
> compressor going and set it at 60, I GET PROBLEMS...
> YMMV, especially with whatever gun you are using.
>
>
>
On Fri, 04 May 2001 14:42:03 GMT, DamselNDistress <nog...@yet.com>
wrote:
Mike
--
"Truth is so obscure in these times and falsehood so established, that
unless we love the truth, we cannot know it."- Blaise Pascal
"Mike" <msta...@onewest.net> wrote in message
news:3AF2AE78...@onewest.net...
Mike
--
"Truth is so obscure in these times and falsehood so established, that
unless we love the truth, we cannot know it."- Blaise Pascal
"DamselNDistress" <nog...@yet.com> wrote in message
news:v8g5ft4lhqeg8et9m...@4ax.com...
My boys are both fanatic Roth fans, and my oldest son met him last year
when he wnet to a buddy's wedding in Salt Lake. I live in Idaho, about
250 miles n. of Lehi, but my son came over from Portland, where he
lives, for the wedding. He said Ed was totally cool, but was
disinterested in doing any new stuff. He was very pleased at the
re-issue of his car models from 30 years ago, but never really knew how
big the current revival of his work is to the Gen Y crowd... he's a car
God all over again to kids 18-25.
Stanger
On Fri, 04 May 2001 23:54:37 GMT, "Michael V" <airbru...@home.com>
wrote:
>The only other person I can think of that paints with Terry is Pat Reynolds.
Mike
--
"Truth is so obscure in these times and falsehood so established, that
unless we love the truth, we cannot know it."- Blaise Pascal
"DamselNDistress" <nog...@yet.com> wrote in message
news:6388ftsdnogoc1k24...@4ax.com...
I have been looking at all the available vcr tapes, and want to start buying
them as soon as I can get out of this crunch I am in. One every few weeks
shouldn't be too bad. I think I want that book first.
I am planning on trying to make that LV expo, there is a wind tunnel there I
want to go to. If I can make it all a one-shot trip that would be cool.
jh
"--Shiva--" <shiv...@pcis.net> wrote in message
news:9d2gsj$8vq$0...@63.78.119.85...
> got my Air Brush Action Magazine...
> and it shows a seminar for automotive airbrushing.
> the 1 day class is either held in Atlantic City OR Las Vegas
> Atlantic City is june 18
> with an optional 4 day class afterwards June 19-22
>
> Las Vegas is Sept 24, with 4 day class 25-28
>
> cost for the 1 day is $150 OR 100 if you sign up for the 4 day
> class too
> the 4 day class is $495
>
> Teacher is Craig Fraser
>
> info? 800.232.8998
>
> they also got a web site if you are interested in VCR tapes...
> several places sell tapes on auto painting..
> Coastal Air, and Dixie Art
>
>
>
>