Need keyboard modification

[Michael McQuaid]

I'm looking for someone who can modify a Bluetooth folding keyboard.
It has a plastic sheet with the circuits embedded. I need two of the
connections modified so the caps lock key behaves as if it is a ctrl
key. The original ctrl key can be non-functioning. I have an extra
broken keyboard you play with first.

I'm looking for someone with experience working with tiny flexible
circuit cards rather than just someone brave enough to try. Pay is
negotiable since I don't know what it would take to do it
successfully.

--
Michael McQuaid
Information & Infrastructure Assurance
120 Boyer Building
201 E Hoover Ave
Ann Arbor, MI 48109
m...@umich.edu
http://mickmcquaid.com

[Tyler Worman]

you can also do this mapping with software. I do something similar on windows and Linux a since i'm use to sun keyboards that have that layout.

[Nathan Dotz]

Re-map ctrl to caplock ftw!

[Adam Davis]

Probably the easiest would be to use conductive epoxy/glue and small gauge wire, such as solid 30awg wire-wrap wire.  You can get both at Radio shack.  It would make a good beginning hacker's project.

Conductive glue:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=12925060
(Not available at the local stores, but you can ship to store for free, or order online.  There's also a circuit writer pen available in the stores that's meant to fix broken traces that might work if you affix the wire using a good adhesive.

Wire:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062642

-Adam

[Nathaniel Bezanson]

On May 14, 12:49 pm, Adam Davis <adavisatubas...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Probably the easiest would be to use conductive epoxy/glue and small gauge

Low-temperature solders also exist. I bought a pound of bismuth alloy
a few years back, and diced it up into half-ounce portions. I'll try
to remember to leave a few such packets at AHA next time I visit.

Whether gluing or soldering, experiment on the broken board a bit to
find what solvents/fluxes work best without dissolving the traces. In
particular, ascertain whether alcohol (for cleaning off the flux
afterward, to prevent corrosion long-term) would harm the traces in
the short term.

As for thin (smaller than 24AWG) wire: If you're buying it, it's
easier to find in solid form, as varnish-insulated "magnet wire" or
Kynar-insulated "wire-wrap wire". But you can also harvest it from old
printer cables and such, where you'll likely find PVC-insulated
*stranded* wire. PVC sucks in general, and the stranded stuff
obviously takes a bit more care to work with, but it's more flexible
and thus relevant to this project.

Good luck!
-Nathaniel-

P.S. If experience proves hard to find, I'm definitely brave enough to
try. ;)