I already tried running the script on the 3FR but Photoshop keeps getting an
error a few iterations into the run. I am using 32-bit XP on a single-core
machine with a bit more than 1 GB of memory available to Photoshop, but
perhaps the size of this RAW is just too large for whatever the script is
trying to do with it. I would guess a 64-bit version of PS wouldn't have
the same sort of problem.
Originally I applied the slider values you communicated to the .3FR file and
Imatest showed significant oversaturation for most of the colors, but now I
see that the slider values are from running on the H-software DNG, so I need
to re-do the Imatest but the computer is busy doing the script for the next
few hours so that will also be in tomorrow. It's possible that the .3FR
and the .DNG will have identical errors, but until I try, I don't know,
because I'm not sure what is different about the H-software version of the
DNG from an Adobe software version.
--
You should also reshoot the CC24 RAW so that is isn't overexposed. The DNG
Profile Editor reports that the three yellow squares (I think) and the white
square have at least one channel clipped to 255, so I have been unable to
use that tool to create a camera profile, either. If you reshoot the CC24
dimmer, post another link to it, along with the H-version of the DNG. I
almost always just shoot my target handheld in P mode, and don't have an
exposure problem. If you have a gray-card you can set the exposure in
M-mode using that. Green grass might be a substitute for a gray card to set
the exposure with, although if it is well-fertilized, dark grass you might
shoot at EV -0.5 to make sure it also doesn't overexpose.
Imatest also complained that there is a vertical gradient (darker or lighter
at the top that then bottom, not sure which), and maybe you can guess why
that is, based on the way it is tilted and what is behind you. You might
also try making it more of a 45-degree angle, pointed up a bit more at the
sky, and shoot more down on it behind careful not to create a shadow of any
kind on it. If I'm at a location is relatively clear of trees and
buildings except along the horizon, I actually put it flat on the ground,
sidewalk, driveway or street, then stand back a ways and zoom in quite a
bit, and shoot the target at an angle from 45 to 60, with the wider edge
about 3/4 of the way across the frame. Because you define the four corners
separately it doesn't matter that it isn't parallel with the camera. You
can think of what would be visible from the camera's point of view if the
target was a mirror, and make sure that mostly only sky would be in that
imagined reflection. Don't have the sun glaring off of it, too much,
either. You can judge this by if the black plastic between the squares has
too much glare. The easiest way to keep glare from happening is to not have
the sun directly "across" the target from your camera position.
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Antonio" <ans...@gmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 17, 2009 5:00 PM