View this page "Everything TF"
Joe
Click on http://groups.google.com/group/Tidalforce/web/everything-tf -
or copy & paste it into your browser's address bar if that doesn't
work.
Joe
All suggestions for additions, etc welcome.
Best,
Joe (mobile)
-----Original Message-----
From: deerfencer1 <deerf...@aol.com>
Date: Monday, Jun 11, 2007 3:12 pm
Subject: [TF] Re: View this page "Everything TF"
To: TidalForce Forum <Tidal...@googlegroups.com>
That's excellent, Joe--great work!
Thanks,
Larry
On Jun 11, 12:08 pm, Joe <joe...@gmail.com> wrote:
This page is looking pretty good (if I do say so myself). Includes
Anderson repair directions, and some other technical details
accumulated over the years some may find interesting.
Joe
plasmadust
used. Not the 280 series.
I have a copy of the GM tech training manual with details of how to
crimp oan such if you need me to copy (GM spies will be all over me I
suppose) you.
http://www.powerandsignal.com/docs/Catalog/met480.pdf
DC
Joe
The (other) fixer,
Joe
PS Added links to Sheldon Brown's excellent site too.
Richard Papa
Thanks from all,
Rich
Joe
jumper to the controller to enable use of a non WaveCrest battery.
Nimbuzz
Joe
I wanted to get the warning out because many of us need new power and I killed my motor by installing a jumper intended for using non-WaveCrest batteries.
My advice is stay out of the controller if you can, and totally keep all power disconnected while the controller is open. Be careful not to repeat my costly mistake.
I did not expect the controller to so easily destroy the motor from a split second short on the battery data pins. This implies a short on the battery data cable (from a cut or crush to the cable) could also burn out something in the motor.
Beta tester,
Joe (mobile)
DaveVt
the controller while trying to install the "B" battery cable. The
motor went completely dead. Fortunately Wave Crest was still giving
warrenty service and it was repaired, but I lost a lot of good biking
time.
Dave in Vermont
> jumper to the controller to enable use of a non WaveCrest battery.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
Nimbuzz
electronics though. Boards are low voltage and a short can kill. It is
a valuable warning to us all. Thanks for the heads up.
There is an error on the original link
<<Repacking the battery hub
The battery hub can be disassembled and the original batteries and
Battery Management System (BMS) can be removed. I don't think anyone
has yet to repack the hub with a Lithium product, but this is the
goal. The original battery hub and BMS can only be repacked with
genuine high quality Saft NiMH cells by L.E.V.T.>>
...As Lolinu has now installed Lithium A123 cells in his hub.
Richard Papa
Oh Joe, I am so sorry my friend.
I can't believe you did not unplug and leave the bike for 5 mins before
opening the dashboard. This is a real harsh lesson for all. Don't forget
the caps need to discharge too!
If anyone opens their dash for whatever reason then I suggest you unplug
everything first and leave the bike for a while and let the caps discharge.
This should not take too long but no need to rush these things. I suggest
our Joe wrte this into the Everything TF page.
If I can help I will Joe. We will see.
Poor Joe :(
Rich
Joe
offered to the group. It too probably has the same part(s) in need of
repair on the DSP board as my hub. I am really impressed with the
quality of the hardware in the hub. I'm guessing there are at least 2
temp sensors, one each inside the coils on opposite sides of the hub
because I see "extra" wire leads from 2 of the 7 coil pairs. The hub
shell, magnets, coils and heat syncs are all very heavy. I get a
sense of the individual hand building that went into each one of these
hubs.
There are really NO user serviceable parts inside the motor hub (ie no
fuses). I highly advise against anyone trying to open theirs unless
they feel qualified and comfortable working with delicate electronics,
heavy metal parts, loose ball bearings, strong magnets and very tight
tolerances. I now have an even greater appreciation for our hubs, our
members who work on them, and LEVT who services them.
Thank you for the hub Bill. And thank you for all your very
knowledgeable and informative posts to the group.
Best,
Joe
Joe
Ignorance is bliss? I've opened my dash many times just for fun and
experiment not knowing I was playing with nitroglycerin >:-O Long
ago I would have tried installing a non-wc jumper just for fun if I
had a jumper that fit. I had no idea I was risking quick and easy
destruction of my motor every time I opened the dash up. Actually now
that I'm thinking about it, you risk this every time you disconnect or
reconnect the A hub data cable too since essentially it's the same as
the B data connector inside the controller. A little carelessness or
forcing or shorting could conceivably blow your motor logic.
As far as I recall, there has never been any previous warnings about
any of these potential problems posted by any of our members or from
WaveCrest.
This reminds me of a story one of my friends told me a long time ago
about their dog chewing their computer's mouse cord until sparks went
flying and smoke came out of the PC. The dog was happy and wagging
her tail but my friend was not. I told my friend I thought
electronics had advanced to a point where this was not a problem. I
hate being proved wrong.
Best,
Joe
On 10/8/07, Richard Papa <papa...@btconnect.com> wrote:
>
>
Nimbuzz
and these components are not suppose to be accessed without basic
electronic knowledge which includes disconnecting the power. Many
circuit boards these days can even be damaged by the tiny power of
static. It's too bad this happened and you are a hero for warning us
to be more/extremely careful but I don't think it is the fault of any
lack of warnings. You can't short any circuit board without risking
everything.
<< As far as I recall, there has never been any previous warnings
about any of these potential problems posted by any of our members or
from WaveCrest. >>
When these setbacks happen to me it usually ends up that something
substantially good/better comes out of it all. Hopefully this will be
true for you as well -- Oh ya, you were about to be squished by a semi
so yer Head Guardian Angel zapped yer motor to save your butt. When
you get your motors back you can ride fearlessly into the future, at
high speeds!!
Uncle Albie
On Oct 8, 12:43 pm, Joe <joe...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Rich,
> Ignorance is bliss? I've opened my dash many times just for fun and
> experiment not knowing I was playing with nitroglycerin >:-O Long
> ago I would have tried installing a non-wc jumper just for fun if I
> had a jumper that fit. I had no idea I was risking quick and easy
> destruction of my motor every time I opened the dash up. Actually now
> that I'm thinking about it, you risk this every time you disconnect or
> reconnect the A hub data cable too since essentially it's the same as
> the B data connector inside the controller. A little carelessness or
> forcing or shorting could conceivably blow your motor logic.
> As far as I recall, there has never been any previous warnings about
> any of these potential problems posted by any of our members or from
> WaveCrest.
>
> This reminds me of a story one of my friends told me a long time ago
> about their dog chewing their computer's mouse cord until sparks went
> flying and smoke came out of the PC. The dog was happy and wagging
> her tail but my friend was not. I told my friend I thought
> electronics had advanced to a point where this was not a problem. I
> hate being proved wrong.
> Best,
> Joe
>
lolinu184
project.
I thought i had warned you all before on static electricity when
touching any components.
Anyway do you think levt can help? If you get stuck with that motor i
would be willing to buy it from you for one of my projects.
bMF
you would figure that with anything I/O related that hooks to the
outside world, the circuit should be designed to survive something as
common as the possibility of a cable coming unhooked & re-attached
under power without fatal results.
You don't expect your monitor or video card to blow up when you plug
the video cable back in, even if it were only one in a hundred times
of that happening there would be mass outrage.
As you point out about being a beta tester, it speaks to the almost
protypical nature of first gen design, as I've seen the like numerous
times.
However that comes with the territory when trying to get a product
launched, it's impossible for the designers to cover all the bases
first time at bat.
>From the sound of things it wasn't static but a power spike, not that
such distinction means a whole lot from the end user standpoint but
may be significant as far as troubleshooting goes because it's
typically a straight line to the blown component.
At least trace back where that line leads, to what device took the
hit.
Depending on the part & availability you might get lucky.
I'm still working on my A-hub & have yet to crack open my motor so
can't advise you much.
Fluxface got Devin's motor working that got blown under similar
circumstances from using Batteryspace external packs so it would be
worth it to check with him if the same fix would work.
Seeing as how he got it up & running again in relative short order I
wouldn't give up hope just yet.
I know it looks darkest b4 the dawn, but until you know for certain
how serious it is, I think there's good reason to hold out some hope
that it may be a straightforward, if not a simple matter to get it
going again.
_ .
_\=\_
(o)+(o)
PGrace
that needs a data cable. This would suggest that hitting the right
exposed pin on the data cable (which is male), while the battery is
attached, could fry the motor.
It sounds very risky to plug in any data cable after connecting any
power cable. The TF manual does mentions this on page 9, but it could
use a bigger "This can destroy your bike"