Yacht Specialties / Merriman steering wheel brake
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Francisco Garuti
Nov 28, 2016, 9:11:23 PM11/28/16
to Passport Owners
Anyone know of a source of information for servicing / fixing the YS pedestal wheel brake? Mine barely brakes anymore, I was wondering if anyone had information on how to make it work as a brake again?
Cheers!
Francisco Garuti
S/V Improbable Passport 40 1985
Bill Schmidt
Nov 29, 2016, 12:03:20 PM11/29/16
to Passpor...@googlegroups.com
Francisco, It's been a long while since I took the pedestal apart, but if memory is correct, when the brake assembly is out of the pedestal, the brake shoes can be adjusted by turning the around on their threaded shaft to tighten or loosen them. The pads are thick. I doubt they have significantly worn away. There may also be an adjustment of the control shaft, but I am really struggling to remember. Hope this helps.
Billy Manana
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Ernie Reuter
Nov 29, 2016, 12:16:47 PM11/29/16
to Bill Schmidt, Passpor...@googlegroups.com
I'm going to take mine apart also in the next day or so and see if this is correct....I think it makes sense for sure.....
Ernie
SV Iemanja
LIttle River SC
Francisco, It's been a long while since I took the pedestal apart, but if memory is correct, when the brake assembly is out of the pedestal, the brake shoes can be adjusted by turning the around on their threaded shaft to tighten or loosen them. The pads are thick. I doubt they have significantly worn away. There may also be an adjustment of the control shaft, but I am really struggling to remember. Hope this helps.
Billy Manana
On 11/28/2016 6:11 PM, Francisco Garuti wrote:
--
Anyone know of a source of information for servicing / fixing the YS pedestal wheel brake? Mine barely brakes anymore, I was wondering if anyone had information on how to make it work as a brake again?
Cheers!Francisco GarutiS/V Improbable Passport 40 1985
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Kevin
Nov 29, 2016, 12:43:09 PM11/29/16
to Passport Owners
Francisco,
I tore my YS pedestal down a few months back to figure out why the steering had become so tight (it was caused by one of the Delrin bushings swelling up and pinching the shaft that the steering wheel connects to) and took the opportunity to correct the lack of breaking on my wheel brake. Billy is correct: The brake is two half circles just like brake shoes on a car, except that the pads are on the concave side of the "shoes". The halves are joined by the threaded adjustment handle on one end and a threaded bolt on the other. When you get the pedestal open - the access to the brake is a bitch - you can first set the adjustment handle so that it has plenty of thread to tighten the brake down, then set the adjustment bolt on the other end to take out the slop so that the brake's pads are just off the shaft. This provides enough room for the shaft to turn without contacting the pads, but enough thread on the adjustment handle to tighten the brake halves down to that the pads grip the shaft.
Hope this helps.
Kevin Muilman
S/V Casi Cielo
1983 P40 #45
I tore my YS pedestal down a few months back to figure out why the steering had become so tight (it was caused by one of the Delrin bushings swelling up and pinching the shaft that the steering wheel connects to) and took the opportunity to correct the lack of breaking on my wheel brake. Billy is correct: The brake is two half circles just like brake shoes on a car, except that the pads are on the concave side of the "shoes". The halves are joined by the threaded adjustment handle on one end and a threaded bolt on the other. When you get the pedestal open - the access to the brake is a bitch - you can first set the adjustment handle so that it has plenty of thread to tighten the brake down, then set the adjustment bolt on the other end to take out the slop so that the brake's pads are just off the shaft. This provides enough room for the shaft to turn without contacting the pads, but enough thread on the adjustment handle to tighten the brake halves down to that the pads grip the shaft.
Hope this helps.
Kevin Muilman
S/V Casi Cielo
1983 P40 #45
Bill Schmidt
Nov 30, 2016, 12:02:13 PM11/30/16
to Passpor...@googlegroups.com
Oh, God! I don't have Alzheimer's after all.
Billy Manana
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Francisco Garuti
Nov 30, 2016, 5:28:24 PM11/30/16
to Passport Owners
How complicated is it to open up the YS pedestal? I was looking for ways to open it up and came to the conclusion that the only way was getting out of where it is right now. I might be wrong, but it requires dissasembling the whole of the steering cables right? Or is there a way to get to the brake without tearing the whole thing apart?
Thanks!
psherwood
Nov 30, 2016, 8:21:09 PM11/30/16
to Francisco Garuti, Passport Owners
Not complicated at all, as I recall. Once you take the compass off the
very top, it'll be obvious what machine screws have to come out. Have
some good penetrating oil handy, for soaking the SS machine screws in
their aluminum housing. When reassembling, use Tef-Gel or Lanokote on
the threads.
If your compass has a little red night light, as mine does, be careful
to remove it and disconnect the two slender wires before lifting the
compass up more than a few inches.
I don't recall having to totally disassemble everything to get at the
brake. You might need to disconnect the throttle cable and carefully
move it out of your way, but if you're reasonably careful that's pretty
straightforwardly done without complicating the reassembly process.
Phil
very top, it'll be obvious what machine screws have to come out. Have
some good penetrating oil handy, for soaking the SS machine screws in
their aluminum housing. When reassembling, use Tef-Gel or Lanokote on
the threads.
If your compass has a little red night light, as mine does, be careful
to remove it and disconnect the two slender wires before lifting the
compass up more than a few inches.
I don't recall having to totally disassemble everything to get at the
brake. You might need to disconnect the throttle cable and carefully
move it out of your way, but if you're reasonably careful that's pretty
straightforwardly done without complicating the reassembly process.
Phil
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Michael Moradzadeh
Nov 30, 2016, 10:55:40 PM11/30/16
to psherwood, Francisco Garuti, Passport Owners
I have found it necessary, in some cases, to use an impact driver to do that initial disassembly of the top parts of the binnacle. An electric or air one, rather than something you smack with a hammer, is a good choice.
And yes, on reassembly, Tef-Gel.
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Ernie Reuter
Dec 1, 2016, 9:28:42 AM12/1/16
to psherwood, Francisco Garuti, Passport Owners
So i did this yesterday. As phil says...compass off, 4 slotted flat heads removes the top case of the bin that holds the throttle and shifter. Remove the cotter pins that hold these linkages. There are 2 7/16" hex heads that hold the linkages to the housing. These come carefully so as not to drop. Now the housing is free. Look inside and youll see the brake mech as described above. 2 bolts with clearance holes on the port side and threaded into the brake brackets on the star side. My lower one was almost completely out. I used a ratcheting open end to reach down. Actually you might be able to get your fingers down or perhaps someone with small hands could help. Follow the above directions to tighten but not over tighten these 2 bolts. Tef gel for sure on reassembly since youll likely need to do this again down the road.
Ernie
SV Iemanja
Little River SC
Not complicated at all, as I recall. Once you take the compass off the very top, it'll be obvious what machine screws have to come out. Have some good penetrating oil handy, for soaking the SS machine screws in their aluminum housing. When reassembling, use Tef-Gel or Lanokote on the threads.
If your compass has a little red night light, as mine does, be careful to remove it and disconnect the two slender wires before lifting the compass up more than a few inches.
I don't recall having to totally disassemble everything to get at the brake. You might need to disconnect the throttle cable and carefully move it out of your way, but if you're reasonably careful that's pretty straightforwardly done without complicating the reassembly process.
Phil
On Wed 11/30/16 15:28, Francisco Garuti wrote:
How complicated is it to open up the YS pedestal? I was looking for ways
to open it up and came to the conclusion that the only way was getting
out of where it is right now. I might be wrong, but it requires
dissasembling the whole of the steering cables right? Or is there a way
to get to the brake without tearing the whole thing apart?
Thanks!
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psherwood
Dec 1, 2016, 11:12:13 AM12/1/16
to Ernie Reuter, Francisco Garuti, Passport Owners
Great writeup. And while you're at it, do yourself a favor by replacing
the #@*$% slotted screws with phillips head screws.
Phil
On Thu 12/1/16 07:28, Ernie Reuter wrote:
> So i did this yesterday. As phil says...compass off, 4 slotted flat
> heads removes the top case of the bin that holds the throttle and
> shifter. Remove the cotter pins that hold these linkages. There are 2
> 7/16" hex heads that hold the linkages to the housing. These come
> carefully so as not to drop. Now the housing is free. Look inside and
> youll see the brake mech as described above. 2 bolts with clearance
> holes on the port side and threaded into the brake brackets on the star
> side. My lower one was almost completely out. I used a ratcheting open
> end to reach down. Actually you might be able to get your fingers down
> or perhaps someone with small hands could help. Follow the above
> directions to tighten but not over tighten these 2 bolts. Tef gel for
> sure on reassembly since youll likely need to do this again down the road.
> Ernie
> SV Iemanja
> Little River SC
>
> On Wednesday, November 30, 2016, psherwood <p...@witanco.com
> Passpor...@googlegroups.com
> <mailto:PassportOwner...@googlegroups.com>.
>
the #@*$% slotted screws with phillips head screws.
Phil
On Thu 12/1/16 07:28, Ernie Reuter wrote:
> So i did this yesterday. As phil says...compass off, 4 slotted flat
> heads removes the top case of the bin that holds the throttle and
> shifter. Remove the cotter pins that hold these linkages. There are 2
> 7/16" hex heads that hold the linkages to the housing. These come
> carefully so as not to drop. Now the housing is free. Look inside and
> youll see the brake mech as described above. 2 bolts with clearance
> holes on the port side and threaded into the brake brackets on the star
> side. My lower one was almost completely out. I used a ratcheting open
> end to reach down. Actually you might be able to get your fingers down
> or perhaps someone with small hands could help. Follow the above
> directions to tighten but not over tighten these 2 bolts. Tef gel for
> sure on reassembly since youll likely need to do this again down the road.
> Ernie
> SV Iemanja
> Little River SC
>
> On Wednesday, November 30, 2016, psherwood <p...@witanco.com
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Ernie Reuter
Dec 1, 2016, 1:05:00 PM12/1/16
to psherwood, Francisco Garuti, Passport Owners
I would second that Phil....
Ernie
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Don Fife
Dec 1, 2016, 11:51:10 PM12/1/16
to Michael Moradzadeh, Passpor...@googlegroups.com
Under the compass is a round two inch wide piece held down by four screws. It has two tits that the shift and fuel levers attach to via bolts. The shift lever tit broke while I was single handing to La Paz in 2008. I used a temporary fix using a small vise grip to pull up or push down the cable. Once in La Paz I found a welder to weld the part back together. I thought it was aluminum and he thought it was aluminum. No problem, come back in the morning and pick it up. I returned and he said he was sorry but he could not weld the part. I was in shock, how was I to get this out of date part. He then handed me the part and said it is plastic! He fixed it with some kind of glue and it is still working flawlessly. Moral of the story, do not force or hammer on this part. TLC is needed to remove the screws. Michael is right, leave the hammer in the tool kit.
Don
SV Bugler
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