jib track and forestay after teak removal

[Brian]

We pulled the teak off our decks last weekend. We're going to have
someone else finish the deck. He suggested that I put some kind of
plastic piece under the jib tracks to avoid standing water between the
jib tracks and the edge of the cabin top. Did anyone else do this?
Does anyone have a problem with water sitting inboard of the jib
tracks?

We're also looking at what to do with the inner forestay chainplate.
This doesn't seem very well anchored to begin with - it is though-
bolted to the bulkhead between the head and forepeak, and there is a
big door just under it. Is there some sort of metal reinforcement
above the door going out to the hull? Seems like it should be anchored
well into the bottom of the hull...Might just put some kind of plastic
under it to keep ir at the same level - otherwise I'll have to drill
new holes in the bulkhead if we drop it down on the new deck. Then put
some big backing plates on it...

Thanks in advance!

[Brian]

Sorry, forgot to sign this!

Brian
Toloa, 1984 P40

[Jon Ash]

Brian: this is a fuzzy photo of the bracket I fabricated for the inner
forestay chain plate on Caribbean Soul P40. Seems to work well The design
was suggested by the boat designer.

[Jon Ash]

and here is the photo

[Brian Moloney]

Here is a photo of the current setup

-----Original Message-----
From: Jon Ash [mailto:ddoc...@verizon.net]
Sent: Saturday, March 06, 2010 5:48 AM
To: Jon Ash; Brian; Passport Owners
Subject: Re: [Passport] jib track and forestay after teak removal

and here is the photo

[Bette Reuter]

Here's the information I sent to Brian in reply to his query about water around the jib tracks.  If you have a fast connection and would like me to forward you the pictures referenced below, just let me know.

Ernie and I had removed our teak decks.  We did not want water to stand behind and near the jib tracks so we raised them up with 1/8" G10.  We also put in drains every 3 feet so as not to block off any of the track fasteners.  I am sending you some pictures:  G10 epoxied down and with putty shaped as a nice round edge between G10 and cabin house,  G10 primed and initial sanding with finger showing one of the drains, G10 with a piece of track laid over it in correct position to show how it would look, then G10 with machinists dye used during sanding (it shows what was sanded without any missed spots; one removes 100% of the dye before painting). and then G10 finish painted with Imron.  Hope this helps.

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