Replacing diesel tank

[john warren]

Hello all...hope all is well and Happy Holidays.  I would like some input from other Passport owners if possible.  I'm currently in San Carlos, Mexico and and replacing my aft fuel tank on Warren Peace...P47.  The primary tanks are built into the keel of the boat below the salon floors.  Last week I drilled out the bungs and took the screws out of the teak flooring and then removed the subflooring.  I'm now where I can actually see the entire top of the aft tank.  Tomorrow I plan on sawing off the top of the stainless tank and leaving the sides of the old tank in place.  I will have a new stainless tank fabricated here in San Carlos next week and then put into the old tank.  Basically...the end result should be a new tank inside the old tank...sort of like a sleeve.  I will then fiberglass the top to make it permanent.  The issue is that the new tank will be slightly smaller on the sides (port and starboard) than the old tank.  The front, back and bottom should be fairly close dimensionally to the existing tank.  Question:  What do you think would be the best method to fill in the two inch gap on each side of the new tank to keep it stable and in place so there is no movement?  Wood, foam, metal or what?  The original tank is made of stainless steel and the new tank will also be made of stainless steel.  I don't want to fill the gap with something that will cause new corrosion or rust...even though the new tank is stainless.  The fabricator said he was building the new tank out of 304 stainless.  Any suggestions or ideas?

 

Take care all...

[George Louis]

No foam since if it gets wet with petrol may dissolve. I would use wood as shims and then straddle the top with a long piece of wood so if you ever roll the tank won't drop out. 

George Louis

Sent from my iPhone

On Dec 3, 2012, at 2:03 PM, john warren <johnwa...@gmail.com> wrote:

Hello all...hope all is well and Happy Holidays.  I would like some input from other Passport owners if possible.  I'm currently in San Carlos, Mexico and and replacing my aft fuel tank on Warren Peace...P47.  The primary tanks are built into the keel of the boat below the salon floors.  Last week I drilled out the bungs and took the screws out of the teak flooring and then removed the subflooring.  I'm now where I can actually see the entire top of the aft tank.  Tomorrow I plan on sawing off the top of the stainless tank and leaving the sides of the old tank in place.  I will have a new stainless tank fabricated here in San Carlos next week and then put into the old tank.  Basically...the end result should be a new tank inside the old tank...sort of like a sleeve.  I will then fiberglass the top to make it permanent.  The issue is that the new tank will be slightly smaller on the sides (port and starboard) than the old tank.  The front, back and bottom should be fairly close dimensionally to the existing tank.  Question:  What do you think would be the best method to fill in the two inch gap on each side of the new tank to keep it stable and in place so there is no movement?  Wood, foam, metal or what?  The original tank is made of stainless steel and the new tank will also be made of stainless steel.  I don't want to fill the gap with something that will cause new corrosion or rust...even though the new tank is stainless.  The fabricator said he was building the new tank out of 304 stainless.  Any suggestions or ideas?

 

Take care all...

--
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[Rcyoung]

Why not take out the old tank entirely? 

If you do leave it in, i don't think the gap needs to be filled entirely out of fear  of moisture or condensation being trapped. Just put some teak scraps or something to keep the new tank from rattling in the old tank due to vibration, healing pr bad weather. Remember drainage to  bilge for the unforeseen issue. 

Bob

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note™, an AT&T LTE smartphone

[Michael Moradzadeh]

I gotta agree,� filling the gap may create moisture pockets...

On 12/2/2012 5:28 PM, Rcyoung wrote:

Why not take out the old tank entirely?�

If you do leave it in, i don't think the gap needs to be filled entirely out of fear �of moisture or condensation being trapped. Just put some teak scraps or something to keep the new tank from rattling in the old tank due to vibration, healing pr bad weather. Remember drainage to �bilge for the unforeseen issue.�

Bob

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note�, an AT&T LTE smartphone

john warren <johnwa...@gmail.com> wrote:

Hello all...hope all is well and Happy Holidays.� I would like some input from other Passport owners if possible.� I'm currently in San Carlos, Mexico and and replacing my aft fuel tank on Warren Peace...P47.� The primary tanks are built into the keel of the boat below the salon floors.� Last week I drilled out the bungs and took the screws out of the teak flooring and then removed the subflooring.� I'm now where I can actually see the entire top of the aft tank.� Tomorrow I plan on sawing off the top of the stainless tank and leaving the sides of the old tank in place.� I will have a new stainless tank fabricated here in San Carlos next week and then put into the old tank.� Basically...the end result should be a new tank inside the old tank...sort of like a sleeve.� I will then fiberglass the top to make it permanent.� The issue is that the new tank will be slightly smaller on the sides (port and starboard) than the old tank.� The front, back and bottom should be fairly close dimensionally to the existing tank.� Question:� What do you think would be the best method to fill in the two inch gap on each side of the new tank to keep it stable and in place so there is no movement?� Wood, foam, metal or what?� The original tank is made of stainless steel and the new tank will also be made of stainless steel.� I don't want to fill the gap with something that will cause new corrosion or rust...even though the new tank is stainless.� The fabricator said he was building the new tank out of 304 stainless.� Any suggestions or ideas?

�

Take care all...

--
Passport Owners Association http://passportyachts.org
To post to the group, use "reply all" or send email to Passpor...@googlegroups.com
To reply to just the author, just use "reply:
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[John Baudendistel]

Hello John. Why wouldn't you just cut out old tanks in their entirety? If you do as planned will you glue teak strips with 5200 to the bottom and a few around the sides to prevent movement and the two different metals from touching. You mentioned  the sides what about the bottom. I think that would work.  Possibly drill holes on the bottom and sides of old tank to ensure no water entrapment between the two.  John B

Sent from my iPhone

On Dec 2, 2012, at 5:03 PM, john warren <johnwa...@gmail.com> wrote:

Hello all...hope all is well and Happy Holidays.  I would like some input from other Passport owners if possible.  I'm currently in San Carlos, Mexico and and replacing my aft fuel tank on Warren Peace...P47.  The primary tanks are built into the keel of the boat below the salon floors.  Last week I drilled out the bungs and took the screws out of the teak flooring and then removed the subflooring.  I'm now where I can actually see the entire top of the aft tank.  Tomorrow I plan on sawing off the top of the stainless tank and leaving the sides of the old tank in place.  I will have a new stainless tank fabricated here in San Carlos next week and then put into the old tank.  Basically...the end result should be a new tank inside the old tank...sort of like a sleeve.  I will then fiberglass the top to make it permanent.  The issue is that the new tank will be slightly smaller on the sides (port and starboard) than the old tank.  The front, back and bottom should be fairly close dimensionally to the existing tank.  Question:  What do you think would be the best method to fill in the two inch gap on each side of the new tank to keep it stable and in place so there is no movement?  Wood, foam, metal or what?  The original tank is made of stainless steel and the new tank will also be made of stainless steel.  I don't want to fill the gap with something that will cause new corrosion or rust...even though the new tank is stainless.  The fabricator said he was building the new tank out of 304 stainless.  Any suggestions or ideas?

 

Take care all...

--

[John Warren]

I originally was going to take all of the tank out and then I thought that having a double wall might actually be a benefit...but, maybe not if moisture or condensation gets trapped in the inner wall.  I don't want to drill holes in the bottom of the old tank to let moisture out because both of the fuel tanks are actually set down in the keel....as in the bilge.  So...if I were to drill holes in the old fuel tank to let moisture, condensation or water escape from that 2" inner wall...it might also let water come into that area if the bilge were to get full of water.  The water might come from outside where the bilge is...to the inner wall which would be even worse because normally the water that is in my bilge is salt water mixed with fresh water.

 

Over the years...I've had everything in my bilge.  The engine is just aft of the bilge and if there is antifreeze that might come out from a loose hose clamp, or oil spill from changing the oil, or sea water from a raw water pump leaking or anything coming from the engine...it ends up in the bilge.  Also...I've had an ongoing problem with chain plates leaking over the years and that water is either from washing the boat down with fresh water or in heavy seas with salt water.  In addition to that...sometimes the float switches on the sump pumps don't work and the overflow from the showers will go into the bilge.  Also the water from the refrigerator and freezer holding plates when they thaw between cycles goes into the bilge.  Bottom line...when Sharon and I are seriously cruising...there always seems to be some sort of fresh or salt water in the bilge...not a lot...but some.  So, if I were to drill holes in the area that we're talking about...the bilge water would go into that area between the old and new tanks.

 

Now do you see why I'm asking this question?  This small area between the old and new tanks may be enclosed forever if I glass over the top of the tank.  Maybe the answer is to not glass it over and let it breath.  Or maybe glass over three sides of it and leave the fourth side open for access...just in case?  Or...put a teak strip down that is removable for inspection from time to time?

 

More ideas?  Am I making myself more clear as to the issue?

---

From: Passpor...@googlegroups.com [mailto:Passpor...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Rcyoung
Sent: Sunday, December 02, 2012 6:29 PM
To: john warren; Passpor...@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [Passport] Replacing diesel tank

[robert c young]

My fuel tank is behind the companion way but  my bilge is permanently wet from stuffing box drip, rain down the mast, fridge drain etc. When you mentioned “permanently” sealed forever, I hope you have access to the tank to enable cleaning crud out periodically (once in 24 years in my case). This was a crucial cleaning because of the dirty slurry that plugged the filters.

[Bill Schmidt]

slow curing epoxy with microballons.

B.

--

[Bill Schmidt]

Geez, John. Have you considered the well being of those critters who must surely inhabit the wet dark crypts and recesses of your succulent bilge and keel hollow? Maybe you should fill that void with beer or, perhaps, yogurt? Maybe you should just leave the old leaky tank alone and let it feed all those petrol loving bacteria? Have you had an environmental impact report filed with the Mexican government yet?

Billy

----- Original Message -----

From: John Warren

To: 'Rcyoung' ; 'john warren' ; Passpor...@googlegroups.com

Sent: Sunday, December 02, 2012 7:20 PM

Subject: RE: [Passport] Replacing diesel tank

[Michael Moradzadeh]

I read somewhere that there was once a custom among thatchers -- roofmakers -- of putting a bottle of whiskey in the thatch of the roof as a treat for the next guy some number of years hence who re-thatched the roof.� Probably urban myth, but I like the idea

On 12/2/2012 9:42 PM, Bill Schmidt wrote:

Geez, John. Have you considered the well being of those critters who must surely inhabit the wet dark crypts and recesses of your succulent bilge and keel hollow? Maybe you should fill that void with beer or, perhaps, yogurt? Maybe you should just leave the old leaky�tank alone and let it feed all those petrol loving bacteria? Have you had an environmental impact report filed with the Mexican government yet?

Billy

----- Original Message -----

From: John Warren

To: 'Rcyoung' ; 'john warren' ; Passpor...@googlegroups.com

Sent: Sunday, December 02, 2012 7:20 PM

Subject: RE: [Passport] Replacing diesel tank

I originally was going to take all of the tank out and then I thought that having a double wall might actually be a benefit...but, maybe not if moisture or condensation gets trapped in the inner wall.� I don't want to drill holes in the bottom of the old tank to let moisture out because both of the fuel tanks are actually set down in the keel....as in the bilge.� So...if I were to drill holes in the old fuel tank to let moisture, condensation or water escape from that 2" inner wall...it might also let water come into that area if the bilge were to get full of water.� The water might come from outside where the bilge is...to the inner wall which would be even worse because normally the water that is in my bilge is salt water mixed with fresh water.

�

Over the years...I've had everything in my bilge.� The engine is just aft of the�bilge and if there is antifreeze that might come out from a loose hose clamp, or oil spill from changing the oil, or sea water from a raw water pump leaking or anything coming from the engine...it ends up in the bilge.� Also...I've had an ongoing problem with chain plates leaking over the years and that water is either from washing the boat down with fresh water or in heavy seas with salt water.� In addition to that...sometimes the float�switches�on the sump pumps don't work and the overflow from the showers will go into the bilge.� Also the water from the refrigerator and�freezer holding plates when they thaw between cycles goes into the�bilge.� Bottom line...when Sharon and I are seriously cruising...there always seems to�be some sort of fresh or salt water in the bilge...not a lot...but some.� So, if I were to drill holes in the area that we're talking about...the bilge water would go into that area between the old and new tanks.

�

Now do you see why I'm asking this question?� This small area between the old and new tanks may be enclosed forever if I glass over the top of the tank.� Maybe the answer is to not glass it over and let it breath.� Or maybe glass over three sides of it and leave the fourth side open for access...just in case?� Or...put a teak strip down that is removable for inspection from time to time?

�

More ideas?� Am I making myself more clear as to the issue?

---

From: Passpor...@googlegroups.com [mailto:Passpor...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Rcyoung
Sent: Sunday, December 02, 2012 6:29 PM
To: john warren; Passpor...@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [Passport] Replacing diesel tank

Why not take out the old tank entirely?�

If you do leave it in, i don't think the gap needs to be filled entirely out of fear �of moisture or condensation being trapped. Just put some teak scraps or something to keep the new tank from rattling in the old tank due to vibration, healing pr bad weather. Remember drainage to �bilge for the unforeseen issue.�

Bob

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note�, an AT&T LTE smartphone

john warren <johnwa...@gmail.com> wrote:

Hello all...hope all is well and Happy Holidays.� I would like some input from other Passport owners if possible.� I'm currently in San Carlos, Mexico and and replacing my aft fuel tank on Warren Peace...P47.� The primary tanks are built into the keel of the boat below the salon floors.� Last week I drilled out the bungs and took the screws out of the teak flooring and then removed the subflooring.� I'm now where I can actually see the entire top of the aft tank.� Tomorrow I plan on sawing off the top of the stainless tank and leaving the sides of the old tank in place.� I will have a new stainless tank fabricated here in San Carlos next week and then put into the old tank.� Basically...the end result should be a new tank inside the old tank...sort of like a sleeve.� I will then fiberglass the top to make it permanent.� The issue is that the new tank will be slightly smaller on the sides (port and starboard) than the old tank.� The front, back and bottom should be fairly close dimensionally to the existing tank.� Question:� What do you think would be the best method to fill in the two inch gap on each side of the new tank to keep it stable and in place so there is no movement?� Wood, foam, metal or what?� The original tank is made of stainless steel and the new tank will also be made of stainless steel.� I don't want to fill the gap with something that will cause new corrosion or rust...even though the new tank is stainless.� The fabricator said he was building the new tank out of 304 stainless.� Any suggestions or ideas?

�

Take care all...

--
Passport Owners Association http://passportyachts.org
To post to the group, use "reply all" or send email to Passpor...@googlegroups.com
To reply to just the author, just use "reply:
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Passport Owners Association http://passportyachts.org
To post to the group, use "reply all" or send email to Passpor...@googlegroups.com
To reply to just the author, just use "reply:
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[Donald Fife]

Maybe we should perform a 1700 ceremony via the resurrection of a new fuel tank. The New Tank Shall Hold fuel,,,I'd be happy to perform the ceremony

Don Fife 530-545-3402

On Dec 2, 2012, at 10:02 PM, Michael Moradzadeh <m...@yachtpc.com> wrote:

I read somewhere that there was once a custom among thatchers -- roofmakers -- of putting a bottle of whiskey in the thatch of the roof as a treat for the next guy some number of years hence who re-thatched the roof.  Probably urban myth, but I like the idea

On 12/2/2012 9:42 PM, Bill Schmidt wrote:

Geez, John. Have you considered the well being of those critters who must surely inhabit the wet dark crypts and recesses of your succulent bilge and keel hollow? Maybe you should fill that void with beer or, perhaps, yogurt? Maybe you should just leave the old leaky tank alone and let it feed all those petrol loving bacteria? Have you had an environmental impact report filed with the Mexican government yet?

Billy

----- Original Message -----

From: John Warren

To: 'Rcyoung' ; 'john warren' ; Passpor...@googlegroups.com

Sent: Sunday, December 02, 2012 7:20 PM

Subject: RE: [Passport] Replacing diesel tank

I originally was going to take all of the tank out and then I thought that having a double wall might actually be a benefit...but, maybe not if moisture or condensation gets trapped in the inner wall.  I don't want to drill holes in the bottom of the old tank to let moisture out because both of the fuel tanks are actually set down in the keel....as in the bilge.  So...if I were to drill holes in the old fuel tank to let moisture, condensation or water escape from that 2" inner wall...it might also let water come into that area if the bilge were to get full of water.  The water might come from outside where the bilge is...to the inner wall which would be even worse because normally the water that is in my bilge is salt water mixed with fresh water.

 

Over the years...I've had everything in my bilge.  The engine is just aft of the bilge and if there is antifreeze that might come out from a loose hose clamp, or oil spill from changing the oil, or sea water from a raw water pump leaking or anything coming from the engine...it ends up in the bilge.  Also...I've had an ongoing problem with chain plates leaking over the years and that water is either from washing the boat down with fresh water or in heavy seas with salt water.  In addition to that...sometimes the float switches on the sump pumps don't work and the overflow from the showers will go into the bilge.  Also the water from the refrigerator and freezer holding plates when they thaw between cycles goes into the bilge.  Bottom line...when Sharon and I are seriously cruising...there always seems to be some sort of fresh or salt water in the bilge...not a lot...but some.  So, if I were to drill holes in the area that we're talking about...the bilge water would go into that area between the old and new tanks.

 

Now do you see why I'm asking this question?  This small area between the old and new tanks may be enclosed forever if I glass over the top of the tank.  Maybe the answer is to not glass it over and let it breath.  Or maybe glass over three sides of it and leave the fourth side open for access...just in case?  Or...put a teak strip down that is removable for inspection from time to time?

 

More ideas?  Am I making myself more clear as to the issue?

---

From: Passpor...@googlegroups.com [mailto:Passpor...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Rcyoung
Sent: Sunday, December 02, 2012 6:29 PM
To: john warren; Passpor...@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [Passport] Replacing diesel tank

Why not take out the old tank entirely? 

If you do leave it in, i don't think the gap needs to be filled entirely out of fear  of moisture or condensation being trapped. Just put some teak scraps or something to keep the new tank from rattling in the old tank due to vibration, healing pr bad weather. Remember drainage to  bilge for the unforeseen issue. 

Bob

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note™, an AT&T LTE smartphone

john warren <johnwa...@gmail.com> wrote:

Hello all...hope all is well and Happy Holidays.  I would like some input from other Passport owners if possible.  I'm currently in San Carlos, Mexico and and replacing my aft fuel tank on Warren Peace...P47.  The primary tanks are built into the keel of the boat below the salon floors.  Last week I drilled out the bungs and took the screws out of the teak flooring and then removed the subflooring.  I'm now where I can actually see the entire top of the aft tank.  Tomorrow I plan on sawing off the top of the stainless tank and leaving the sides of the old tank in place.  I will have a new stainless tank fabricated here in San Carlos next week and then put into the old tank.  Basically...the end result should be a new tank inside the old tank...sort of like a sleeve.  I will then fiberglass the top to make it permanent.  The issue is that the new tank will be slightly smaller on the sides (port and starboard) than the old tank.  The front, back and bottom should be fairly close dimensionally to the existing tank.  Question:  What do you think would be the best method to fill in the two inch gap on each side of the new tank to keep it stable and in place so there is no movement?  Wood, foam, metal or what?  The original tank is made of stainless steel and the new tank will also be made of stainless steel.  I don't want to fill the gap with something that will cause new corrosion or rust...even though the new tank is stainless.  The fabricator said he was building the new tank out of 304 stainless.  Any suggestions or ideas?

 

[John Baudendistel]

Ok no holes in the old tank. Teak strips along the bottom and sides glued in. Gives air circ for moisture to evap. I would not seal it. John

Sent from my iPhone

[John Warren]

I meant permanently sealing the top of the tank, but there would be an inspection hole/plate as there is now.  Teak strips might be a good idea to let air flow on all sides...not exactly sure where I'm gonna get teak in San Carlos, Mexico...another thing to put on the list.

 

Today is the "cut day".  Yesterday I went to the boat to remove that last of the hoses and tubes from the top of the tank.  I put a vacuum cleaner hose down the inspection plate and put on blow to get the fumes out of the tank...even though it is empty.  I tried a small cut with a high quality cutting wheel with my grinder...what a freaking mess that created...including sending sparks everywhere.  Then I tried a Saws all with much better and cleaner results.  The circular cutting disc on the grinder last much longer than the cutting blades on the Saws all, but the saw has almost no mess and no sparks at all.  Today...Sharon and I are going to the boat armed with about 10 blades and are starting the big cut.  I'll take some before and after pictures with and without tank top.  I guess it's OK to post pictures on this forum if they are small?

---

From: robert c young [mailto:rcy...@optonline.net]
Sent: Sunday, December 02, 2012 9:54 PM
To: 'John Warren'; 'john warren'; Passpor...@googlegroups.com

[John Warren]

Environmental Impact Study...haven't thought of that Billy Boy.  When I was here last year to recharge the batteries (BSS...before shoulder surgery) I looked into the bilge and saw lots of water...I thought.  I could see and smell a little diesel floating on top of the water, so I simply turned on the bilge pump to get the water out.  I went outside the boat to see how much water had splashed on the boat yard pavement under the boat stands and could smell diesel.  What I thought was water was pretty much pure diesel all over the place (probably about 15 or so gallons)...and all of the Mexican workers were walking by noticing the big spill and smell...everyone looking at Warren Peace and it wasn't because she was sitting there looking so pretty.  I took some dish soap and water hose to disperse what was on the ground....BIG MISTAKE!  Just made things worse.  Glad I wasn't at Svendsen's Boat Yard!  Nope I haven't considered an impact study.

 

I had my wonderful experience with the Mexican government/bank last week when I applied for my second 10 year permit.  I'm now good for another 10 years.  Very different process than it used to be.

 

Critters in Mexico...no way!

---

From: Bill Schmidt [mailto:bi...@windwitch.com]
Sent: Sunday, December 02, 2012 10:43 PM
To: John Warren; 'Rcyoung'; 'john warren'; Passpor...@googlegroups.com

[John Warren]

Don....I'll be taking you up on that one!  The metal fabricator is very good and he is going to pressure test the tank before delivery to the yard, but a ceremony of "The New Tank Shall Hold Fuel" sounds like a great idea to me.  Why don't you start working on that one....please!

---

From: Passpor...@googlegroups.com [mailto:Passpor...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Donald Fife
Sent: Sunday, December 02, 2012 11:11 PM
To: Michael Moradzadeh
Cc: Passpor...@googlegroups.com

[ChinaDoll]

John,

Not sure if I posted to the group when I replaced the tanks on China Doll. Sounds like you're getting some good general advice from everyone in the group, but here are some items learned during my 'big' fuel tank replacement project. When I redid my tanks I selected 1/4 inch thick certified 5052 H32 aluminum and had the tanks framed and welded by a welder in La Paz to my specifications. I supervised the build and pressure tested the finish tanks to +2 psi / 24 hr ensure there were no structural issues and no leaks. The welder was certified for welding 5052 pressure tanks and had excellent 'stir' techniques in making seam formed welds.

If forming SS304 tanks, make sure the welder forms the tanks (frames and fabricates) in a method that will limit having any welded seams below the top of the tank. This is done using a bending brake to form the bottom and sides frames of the tank. The top is then welded into place leaving no welds at or near the bottom. Welding SS304 leaves the seems in a an active state (lower on the galvanic scale than regular iron steel) and the welds on SS304 are prone to crack near the bottom due to addition stress formed near the tank bottom.

I would not place SS in any metal housing because this instantly forms unavoidable metal crevices and activates the metal even if both parts are passivated. You cannot allow SS304 tanks to sit in any (fresh / salt) water accumulation and the metal has to have free flowing air moving around the outsides to keep the metal dry. Lastly, and very important when dealing with SS fuel tanks, you cannot seal or glue on any tank surface or have the tank rest on any material or sealant that contains carbon or any metals. An example is black rubber contains carbon and will activate SS when in constant contact with the surface.

One last point, tensile strength and thickness on large tanks is very important; non certificated 'thinner' plates of an unknown hardness (Rockwell Test), unknown forming formulation (%Cr, %Mo, etc), can split open if not engineered correctly. Also, baffling in these larger tanks made of SS has to be done correctly to keep seams from popping open in rough seas due to the uninhibited force of the moving fuel in tank greater than 10 to 15 gallon of diesel in size.

It may be a better bet to get certified built tanks made of certificated metals that have been pretested (pressure +2psi) for survey, insurance, and resale purposes. Going this route, I would certainly remove the old tanks completely from the boat and place the tanks on closed cell high density foam stringers that are applied using high strength water-proof headliner spray-on glue. The stringers should be placed no more than a foot-1/2 apart if possible and run along the hull sides from the top straight down vertically to two feet above the very bottom 'spine' of the boat, in about one-inch wide strips. It is best to secure the stringers to the hull using the spray glue; you'll notice that the glue reacts in a good way to form a super strong bond between the 'pink' or 'blue' board closed cell stringers and the exposed unpainted resin that's typically found under the existing tanks.

Oh, and one more thing, if possible, and if you're using a standing tube for fuel quantity checks, be sure to 'build' (place) a water sump and pit-cock system into the lowest point of the tank. This will allow the occasional needed draining of water contaminates from the tanks and placing the pick up in with the sight-glass system simplifies the plumbing and reduces the chance of leaks in an open ended pit-cock. It's tough to explain this without a diagram so I will have to leave it up to your imagination.

HTH,

-Rob.

[Bill Schmidt]

Wow!

B.

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[John Warren]

Hello all from San Carlos, Mexico.  Well, I've had two days to cut open the top of the tank, cut out the baffle, clean the sludge out of the tank...and do some more bleeding with the now very sharp edges.  Nothing like a man with his tools...saws all and grinder with a cutting wheel!  Of the comments that I've received from POA and discussions here at the boat yard...one common thing keeps coming up...let the tanks breath and keep the metals of the old tank and new tank separated.  I did find out once inside the tank that it is not stainless, but is black iron.  I think now that the tank is open and fairly clean...I'll have the inside of the tank glassed to keep the two metals separated and the old tank will make a nice form for the fiberglass.  If I glass the inside of the old tank it will also seal the bilge from the tank (since it had a leak) and also capture the moister inside the old tank.   One comment at the boat yard this morning was...why not make a whole new tank out of fiberglass and keep the existing shape and volume.  I'm about to pull the trigger with the metal fabricator here in San Carlos and the tank which would be made out of SS304 would be smaller due to being able to get through the companion way.  Any comments on the idea of building a new tank out of fiberglass inside the old tank and keeping the existing shape?  Attached are pictures of the good, the bad and the ugly...minus the blood.

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From: Passpor...@googlegroups.com [mailto:Passpor...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of ChinaDoll
Sent: Monday, December 03, 2012 9:15 PM
To: Passpor...@googlegroups.com

Subject: [Passport] Re: Replacing diesel tank

[kenyon]

Hey John,

What ever happened with this project?  I'm in the same boat.  My main tank which is pretty much like yours has a leaked since I've owned the boat, so I have just used one of the others.  I found the leak at one of the welds and was planning on fixing it using a 3M product used for sealing airplane wings to use as fuel tanks.  My neighbor across the dock repaired his tank using this technique last year.  There are actually 2 products, one to "fillet" the seams of the tank, and another that just coats the rest of the surface.  My original plan was to tear it out and build a FG in tank in it's place, but this solution seems so much easier even though it might not last as long.

I am also glad to see that someone else has as many damn wires running through their bilge as I do!

Kenyon

[John Baudendistel]

Hello,

I found out my "water leak" was a hot water fitting, so lucky for now the water tanks do not leak.  This is repaired along with a new shower sump pump.  Bilges are back to normal.  John

Sent from my iPhone

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[Kenyon Stewart]

I meant the other John :-)

Sent from my iPad

[John Warren]

Kenyon...Sharon and I just got back to Grants Pass, Oregon about a week ago.  Gone to Mexico for almost six months this year.  Even with all the work we had done on Warren Peace...this was one of the best cruising seasons to Mexico that we've had.  We did two major projects this year.  1)  Replaced the aft keel fuel tank with a brand new stainless steel tank.  I cut the top off the old tank...cleaned it out...epoxied it...painted it...and lined it with plastic (same stuff used as a cutting board in the kitchen)..then dropped in a beautiful new tank built by Hernandez Brothers in Guaymas.  The new tank was a work of art...very good welding done by Hernandez Brothers.  We dropped in the new tank...replumbed the old diesel lines and rewired the old sending units.  Good as new.  I did the math on the loss of total volume and I think I lost about five gallons total with the new tank.  Beautiful new stainless tank...$1000.  All the labor was done by me.  Project #2)  Had the original decks of Warren Peace resurfaced and only had to replace one plank.  Total project took about a month and that was with Reggie the Carpenter taking about four days for vacation.  The project was to remove 1,150 bungs, remove all the old screws, replace with new screws if necessary, rebung with slightly larger bungs.  After that Reggie regrooved the entire deck and cockpit area by saw and by hand in hard to get to areas.  (We did not remove any deck hardware).  He then put new rubber goo in all the grooves and let sit for three days to cure.  He did not tape...he covered the entire deck with rubber goo...obviously mostly in the seams and very little on the deck..however the entire deck was black.  (He did tape the grooves that were next to fiberglass...like the cabin roof)  After that he came back with a circular sander and carefully ground off all the rubber and the very top of the deck with 80 grit sand paper.  He actually finished sanding with a rougher grit 60 very lightly with an orbital sander.  I have pictures of the entire project and my decks look brand new with still lots of teak remaining.  Reggie says if I maintain the decks as he recommends...the decks should last another 30 years.  While in LaPaz...I brushed on four coats of Semco penetrating oil which rejuvenates the deck with natural oils.  Trust me...the decks are gorgeous!!!  I paid $$$$ for his service, but mucho less than new teak decks.  Also...I discussed having the teak decks removed and he told me that to have the teak decks removed....prepped...and surfaced with non skid would probably cost more than what I paid.

 

I have attached five pictures, but have many more.  These pictures are before the Semco oil treatment.  The very last day of hard sanding we had to leave the marina because the project was so dirty environmentally.  We motored out to a bay about five miles away from the marina, anchored and then I ran the main engine and genset all day long to keep the inverter going at max rate...2,000 watts.  At anchor we ran two heavy duty sanders and a 10 gallon shop vac (plus refrigeration to keep beer cold) all day long off the Outback Inverter....got to say good things about making AC power off that inverter.

 

As some Passport Owners have stated...it's not a Passport unless it has teak decks.  On the other hand...I've seen other Passports without teak decks and they look nice also.  It's simply a matter of preference in my opinion.  If you could see pictures of Adagio without her teak decks...you'd be amazed...that boat was refitted very nicely.  My preference...I love the look of teak and makes the boat look elegant!  Takes maintenance...yes...but, worth it.

 

Kenyon...I have lots of pictures of both projects...if you want to...give me a call and I'll forward the pictures of destruction and renewal so you can see the projects.

 

Miss all you guys in the Bay Area....you've got to get down to the Sea of Cortez at some point in the future..

 

Take care....

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From: Passpor...@googlegroups.com [mailto:Passpor...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of kenyon
Sent: Tuesday, April 30, 2013 5:21 PM
To: Passpor...@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [Passport] Re: Replacing diesel tank

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[Bill Schmidt]

OK, these are all gross! Where are pictures of the results?

Billy Manana

[John Baudendistel]

Yes.  Let's see John and Sharon sitting on their chairs upon the new decks having a sundowner!  John

Thanks, 

John Baudendistel

jo...@ets247.com

[John Warren]

I hate to tell you this...but, I don't have any pictures of the finished deck...I mainly took pictures of the process just to remind myself of how Reggie did it.  Literally within a couple of days after completion...we left LaPaz and island hopped all the way back to San Carlos for several weeks.

 

I'll take pictures for you next year when we return to San Carlos...however, I can tell you that the deck looked brand new as it did in 1985 with only a few flaws.

 

Take care...Billy Boy

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From: Bill Schmidt [mailto:bi...@windwitch.com]

Sent: Wednesday, May 01, 2013 10:00 AM
To: John Warren; 'kenyon'; Passpor...@googlegroups.com