New to the forum...some questions

[Justin Maguire III]

all,

 

I've been on this mail list for a while, but haven’t really engaged. I own “Lintika”, a 198- Passport 42 (hull number 4) and i’m getting ready to do a fair bit of work on her. I’m currently in Seattle, but i’m going to be moving her to the bay area sometime around august.

 

My initial work list is:

- repower

- dripless shaft seal

- new prop

- new fuel tanks

- complete overahaul of steering system

- hurricane hydronic heating system.

 

while i’m at it, i’m also trying to consider what to do about her decks. Due to the costs this will not be something I deal with this year.  They’re definitely showing the wear. Sadly i’m cursed with a love of wood and teak so trying to convince me to peel and go to glass won’t work.

 

so.. a few questions:

- I know the deck is supposedly cored, but does anyone on the list know with how and how?

- for those who’ve pulled up their decks, are there common failure points or gotcha’s that I should be aware of?

 

if any of you have peeled your decks before and have pictures it would be greatly appreciated!

 

 

Cheers,

-Justin Maguire

 

 

Sent from Windows Mail

 

[P. Sherwood]

On my P40 the deck is cored with plywood, 3/4" IIRC.

I pulled off the teak deck planking in 2008. A lotta work; figure 6
man-weeks (oops, person-weeks), including deck hardware R&R. Pix and
some discussion of the steps I followed and the lessons I learned at
http://www.witanco.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=24. Click on the
thumbnail pic to go to the album; there are about four pages of photos.

Others have reported having satisfactory resanding/recaulking and
replanking done in La Paz and Mazatlan, respectively, so if you're
heading to Mexico you might consider holding off on the job until you
get there. Maybe a careful sanding and recaulking can squeeze a few more
years of service out of your existing teak.

As I recall, replanking was still quite a few thousand dollars in
Mazatlan, but undoubtedly significantly less expensive than the job
would have been in the States. If you search the list archives you'll
find the details.

Not sure what you mean by failure points. In the process of removing the
teak? In the deck itself? One common problem is that of sealing the
chainplates where they pass through the deck, but that's a separate issue.

Phil
s/v Cynosure
in Mazatlan doing transmission repair, then over to Baja and northbound
"Br'er Fox, please don't throw me in that briar patch!"

On 3/24/2013 02:09, Justin Maguire III wrote:
> all,

> I've been on this mail list for a while, but haven�t really engaged. I
> own �Lintika�, a 198- Passport 42 (hull number 4) and i�m getting ready
> to do a fair bit of work on her. I�m currently in Seattle, but i�m going

> to be moving her to the bay area sometime around august.
> My initial work list is:
> - repower
> - dripless shaft seal
> - new prop
> - new fuel tanks
> - complete overahaul of steering system
> - hurricane hydronic heating system.

> while i�m at it, i�m also trying to consider what to do about her

> decks. Due to the costs this will not be something I deal with this

> year. They�re definitely showing the wear. Sadly i�m cursed with a love
> of wood and teak so trying to convince me to peel and go to glass won�t

> work.
> so.. a few questions:
> - I know the deck is supposedly cored, but does anyone on the list know
> with how and how?

> - for those who�ve pulled up their decks, are there common failure
> points or gotcha�s that I should be aware of?

[John Warren]

Had our decks completely reworked in LaPaz this year and they turned out
beautiful. New bungs (1,150 to be exact), new screws, regrooved and
rebedded, sanded smooth and three coats of sealer. If you go to
LaPaz....contact Reggie the Carpenter.

Warren Peace
P47
John Warren

> I've been on this mail list for a while, but haven't really engaged. I
> own "Lintika", a 198- Passport 42 (hull number 4) and i'm getting
> ready to do a fair bit of work on her. I'm currently in Seattle, but
> i'm going to be moving her to the bay area sometime around august.

> My initial work list is:
> - repower
> - dripless shaft seal
> - new prop
> - new fuel tanks
> - complete overahaul of steering system
> - hurricane hydronic heating system.

> while i'm at it, i'm also trying to consider what to do about her

> decks. Due to the costs this will not be something I deal with this

> year. They're definitely showing the wear. Sadly i'm cursed with a

> love of wood and teak so trying to convince me to peel and go to glass

> won't work.

> so.. a few questions:
> - I know the deck is supposedly cored, but does anyone on the list
> know with how and how?

> - for those who've pulled up their decks, are there common failure
> points or gotcha's that I should be aware of?

> if any of you have peeled your decks before and have pictures it would
> be greatly appreciated!
> Cheers,
> -Justin Maguire
> Sent from Windows Mail

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[ga...@sailsidetrack.com]

Hi Justin,

 

We have Sidetrack, a 1985 P42 in Olympia.  When we bought the boat, we were told by our broker, who worked for the Seattle Passport dealer at the time, that the deck is cored with 4” squares of plywood, spaced apart so that a leak would not migrate beyond one 4” square.  I don’t know how a person would actually verify......maybe removal of the teak decking would show an underlying pattern of squares.

 

From personal experience, I cored some 2-3” holes on the foredeck when I installed a new windlass and encountered a core that appeared to be laminated teak veneer about 1½” thick, slightly moist, and loosely glued together.  I did not encounter the edge of a 4” square showing the “frame” of fiberglass surrounding it as I had hoped.

 

We purchased our boat in Mazatlan and had the decks refurbished and refastened there before we shipped it to Seattle at a cost of about half.  I understand there is also a  good teak deck company in La Paz as well, if your travels take you to Mexico.

 

Cheers,

Gary Wilson

[P. Sherwood]

When fairing my deck after removing the teak -- we sanded most of the
gelcoat off -- a pattern was vaguely visible that supported the
4"-squares claim.

Phil

On 3/24/2013 08:46, ga...@sailsidetrack.com wrote:
> Hi Justin,
> We have /Sidetrack/, a 1985 P42 in Olympia. When we bought the boat, we

> were told by our broker, who worked for the Seattle Passport dealer at

> the time, that the deck is cored with 4� squares of plywood, spaced
> apart so that a leak would not migrate beyond one 4� square. I don�t

[Jim Melton]

I had a need to go into my deck, both the side deck and the top of the cabin.  Before I started drilling holes, I called Bob Perry.  He told me that most of the early P40s, including my 1982, were cored with 4" pieces of mahogany plywood.  Once I got up enough courage to drill, I discovered that side decks and most of the cabintop was, indeed, cored with those 4" squared, but there's a section right back toward the companionway stairs (where I mounted my liferaft) that is cored with foam.  Bob was surprised when I told him about that.

In addition, as Gary mentions below, I have a certainly larger and much thicker piece of plywood right up at the bow which provides great backing for mounting the winch!

For what it's worth...

Hope this helps,
   Jim

At 3/24/2013 09:46 AM, ga...@sailsidetrack.com wrote:

Hi Justin,
 
We have Sidetrack, a 1985 P42 in Olympia.  When we bought the boat, we were told by our broker, who worked for the Seattle Passport dealer at the time, that the deck is cored with 4” squares of plywood, spaced apart so that a leak would not migrate beyond one 4” square.  I don’t know how a person would actually verify......maybe removal of the teak decking would show an underlying pattern of squares.
 
From personal experience, I cored some 2-3” holes on the foredeck when I installed a new windlass and encountered a core that appeared to be laminated teak veneer about 1½” thick, slightly moist, and loosely glued together.  I did not encounter the edge of a 4” square showing the “frame” of fiberglass surrounding it as I had hoped.
 
We purchased our boat in Mazatlan and had the decks refurbished and refastened there before we shipped it to Seattle at a cost of about half.  I understand there is also a  good teak deck company in La Paz as well, if your travels take you to Mexico.
 
Cheers,
Gary Wilson

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[John Baudendistel]

Welcome Justin.  We have Dream Keeper 1985 p42.  On ours we have rebed and bunged the 990 or so screws.  There are tricks to get them out.  We then resurfaced the decks.  This was about 6 years ago and they are doing fine.  It's time for the re caulking this year.

John and Laurel Baudendistel

Sent from my iPhone

--

[John Baudendistel]

The 4 in squares is right on.  Around the windless it is thicker, with a large chunk of mild steel embedded in fiberglass under it. 

John

Sent from my iPhone

On Mar 24, 2013, at 2:09 AM, Justin Maguire III <justin_...@hotmail.com> wrote:

--

[Justin Maguire III]

All - thank you for such a generous set of replies (and fast! I need to check in more regularly :) )

I've done some more digging around and i think the 4 inch squares thing is correct. For those who replied about having the decks re-done in lapaz... that might be a bit away. I was thinking more about using the pre-fabbed panels which are bonded... I reached out to http://www.teakdecking.com/ and they quoted 100$ per square foot. 

OUCH.. but a system like this seems like it would be best, i'm just not sure i could (even if i had that kind of coin laying around) justify that spend with a straight face.

I guess the first step is to take the old off and fair the decks no matter what as the current state is pretty bad. 

Cheers,

-Justin 

[Bill Schmidt]

Justin, 2 thoughts: The cost of new teak may not be all that bad. How many square feet do you need  (even if you replace it all)? Second: a lot of the current teak, removed and sanded, then rebedded, may be entirely ok. Most of it, probably all, is 1/2" or better in thickness. You may need a few new boards, but not all. I'd sure find a good boat yard and get their input. After all, there are so many old, gorgeous woodies in Puget Sound that excellence in teak restoration  is close by.

Billy Manana

--

[Frank Grek]

hey justin,

as far as the faux teaks are concerned, i've heard they get SUPER hot. so hot you can't walk on them. and unlike real teak, pouring some water on them doesn't cool it down. it doesn't absorb into the wood. so if you're going to go down this road, i'd google around and talk to people with it first.

good luck,
frank

[Justin Maguire III]

yeah - that definitely seems to be the consensus ... so i'm definitely going to stay with the real thing.... just might take me a year to pay for it! :)

 

-mag3