Quality of body work
Bob
In the restoration of my car, I have discovered that at some point
the rear body work was replaced. When I stripped the paint on the car,
the rear section was originally painted a light yellow with no primer.
There was no Bondo under this yellow. On top of this yellow there were
small amounts of Bondo before the final blue paint job. From the
cockpit forward there seemed to be a lot of bondo applied on top of a
flat black primer, plus a lot of bondo on top of the bare aluminum.
Also, on the aluminum I found an 18" rondel with the # 42 inside of
it.This outline of the rondel and numbers is barely visible and is
only a discolour of the aluminum. My real question is..How particular
or fussy was the factory with their paint jobs? Secondly, does anyone
know of a car being raced in bare aluminum with the # 42 on the nose?
I also wanted to say thanks to everyone in this group for their
knowledge and having a forum to share their interest in these cars.
Regards, Bob
Vic Thomas
Unless the factory used a particular car themselves, most Elevens
were sold unpainted.
Regards
VFT
Peter Yeomans
series one and series 2 please?
Regards
Peter Yeomans
Peter Yeomans
HI everyone - I have been away for 7 weeks and this post to our chat room below was forwarded to me by Bruce as a follow up to his previous information a couple of months back-I have a photo of his high top piston designed by a specialist race engineer but cant post to this site.
Regards Peter Yeomans
"Hi Guys,
Pardon my intrusion into this forum but I may be able to throw some more light on FW engines.
A few observations after playing with many FW engines over the years.
FWP 1020 early blocks have no lumps on the side for crank clearance in 1500 size so are only really useful for 1100 engines. They can be used and the trick was to take the oil in and out of the crankcase side to the cooler / filter.
The head has no generator mount on the front but it can be used in extreme cases. The chambers are quite a bit deeper than FWA/E car heads and need to have high crown pistons to be really of any use.
I have also measured differences of up to 0.060" in depth measured at the valve centre lines to the chamber face between the valve heads. The shallowest head was 0.516" the deepest was 0.577"
A standard FWA /E car engine head is close to 0.420" in depth.
The chamber widths are also markedly different.
FWP and E heads are usually a touch under 3.0" wide whilst FWBP heads vary from 3.164" up the 3.207"
The FWB head is low compression with deeper chamber and shorter valve by about 3/16". The pistons used where also dished to lower the compression ratio.
However the valve sizes on the FWBP 1500 head are bigger than the FWE. So if you have an FWBP 1500 pump engine, with the use of high top pistons with a wedge built on top you can get good compression ratio without milling the head face. This is desirable as it leaves the head nice and strong. We are doing a race engine right now with this set up.
I'll keep you posted on results in next couple of months.
By the way the FWBP block came in two sizes, 1020 and 1500 the only difference being in the bore for the liners and the crank stroke.
The nice thing about these FWB blocks is that they are identical to the FWE block but do need to have the extra oil gallery and take off drillings done to make them work as replacements for ruined FWE blocks.
I have two of them running in Elite race cars with absolutely no problems.
We make a crank case stiffening systems and use fully counterweighted billet cranks with "phantom" 2 & 4 mains. With a light flywheel and special JE pistons and good rods these engine will spin reliably to over 8,000 RPM We also line bore the blocks to suit the Ford/MG bearing set up but tighten the tolerances, as the blocks expand more than you think when hot. We experience oil pressure of 70 psi hot running on a standard car type oil pump. I also reduce the amount of oil that goes up to the cam shaft a bit by using an adjustable flow valve in the valve gear take off port in the side of the block.
I hope this info helps.
Cheers,
Bruce Mansell
Vic Thomas
Dear Peter
I have had cause to make both types from scratch
using a very heavy homemade jig. Want to buy it ?
I will look up the lengthe s for you.
Rgards
VFT
ps Mike Brotherwood has made dozens.
Bob
couple of sets of blue prints for the series 1 DeDions. I can call him
and see if he has any copies. My car is a series one and I will
measure it for you. Just give me a day or two to get to it. Regards,
Bob
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