Hello Charles
Things have been very quite over the last few days/weeks on this forum.
On my behalf I apologies, for being overly busy. (Don't you just hate when Life gets in the way of your plans?"Well" then welcome to my life.) ;-)
I will have a new Lace Wood walking stick made, Hopefully by this weekend. Everything is glued up and my turning will continue this evening. (after I go grocery shopping.)
You know what I find very funny. Im working on a highly figured wood, and if I realy use the Legacy's finer abilities, I will rune the beauty of the wood.
Dose anyone out there have any pictures of some of there projects that they would like to share? I have an idea of how this walking stick will end up. but if any of you have any suggestions, to deal with highly figured wood. Please feel free to enlighten me.:-)
Now to the store, and then I can play.
have a good night.
C.A.G.
----- Original Message ----- From: Charles Poneleit To: Legacy-Ornamental-Mills@googlegroups.com Sent: Wednesday, June 17, 2009 5:30 AM
Subject: <No Subject>
Take care and have a great day
Chuck the WoodChuck
" I have an idea of how this walking stick will end up. but if any of you have any suggestions, to deal with highly figured wood. Please feel free to enlighten me.:-)"
When it comes to using highly figured woods, I found you should stay away from flutes, reeds and spirals. If you do make a spiral, make it a really long pitch with very few starts to make wide sides that the grain can show really well. I do think that making multi-sided items (5 to 8 sides depending on the diameter of the wood) from highly figured wood can "frame" the unusually grain patterns in specific sections. By break up the length of the walking sticks with bands and rectangle shaped sections people would look closer at the details. If you wanted to add other embellishments, then I would probably only add a dash of twists for the grip area or fluting on the handle end or at the very tip of the stick. Let the wood do the talking.
You could also highlight specific sections by adding bands of contrasting wood to break up sections. One method that I saw in an old furniture book describes making a donut shaped piece, and cutting it in half. Then glue the two pieces around a groove cut in the shaft. Structural integrity of the walking stick would not be compromised since you would not have to make any mortise and tenon joints, or add a screw to mount the band.
Can't wait to see the pictures of the finished cane,
Thanks Tim
I am taking your advice, and letting the wood do the talking, for me. (so to speak.)
I was planning to use contrasting woods in the handle, but perhaps the band or bands idea, for contrast just might also work ? ( I will play with that idea for a while. )Thanks Tim!
The game plan is to have a finished product (Cain) by Sunday eve. If all go's well I will be posting pictures real soon. Dose anyone know how to make the grain pop out on film? My pictures almost never show off the beauty of the wood . "O" well that's a problem for tomorrow.
But now its time for bed.
talk to you (All ) latter.
Again Thanks, Tim for the good advice.
have a good night.
----- Original Message ----- From: Tim Krause To: Legacy-Ornamental-Mills@googlegroups.com Sent: Thursday, June 18, 2009 9:22 PM
Subject: Working with Figured Wood
Hi Curt,
You asked:
" I have an idea of how this walking stick will end up. but if any of you have any suggestions, to deal with highly figured wood. Please feel free to enlighten me.:-)"
When it comes to using highly figured woods, I found you should stay away from flutes, reeds and spirals. If you do make a spiral, make it a really long pitch with very few starts to make wide sides that the grain can show really well. I do think that making multi-sided items (5 to 8 sides depending on the diameter of the wood) from highly figured wood can "frame" the unusually grain patterns in specific sections. By break up the length of the walking sticks with bands and rectangle shaped sections people would look closer at the details. If you wanted to add other embellishments, then I would probably only add a dash of twists for the grip area or fluting on the handle end or at the very tip of the stick. Let the wood do the talking.
You could also highlight specific sections by adding bands of contrasting wood to break up sections. One method that I saw in an old furniture book describes making a donut shaped piece, and cutting it in half. Then glue the two pieces around a groove cut in the shaft. Structural integrity of the walking stick would not be compromised since you would not have to make any mortise and tenon joints, or add a screw to mount the band.
Can't wait to see the pictures of the finished cane,
I recently bought a nearly new model 1200 ornamental mill from someone who had barely used it... so although it is not new most things have never been used or have been only used once or twice. The original owner told me that he made two things with the mill and was downsizing when he put the mill up for sale.
My question is that the "Y" axis seems very stiff when manually pushing or pulling the router assembly "front to back" or vice versa compared with the "X".axis which glides the full 6 foot length with minimum pressure exerted. .
Is this normal for the stiffness in the "Y" axis and does it eventually loosen up more freely in time with use?
The videos I have seem makes it look like the "Y" axis glides effortlessly. (especially the one making the tendon).
It seems that all pieces are assembled correctly and I have sprayed dynaglide to help it along but to very little improvement. Of course the "Y" axis screwlock is released when I attempt to manually move the assembly..
The machine does have the "Z" axis upgrade on it so the carrier is slightly different (looks bigger and no dust collector) as well as the template follower being different.
Any ideas or suggestions from the experienced users? Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
I doubt this is the case, but is the y axis track full of saw dust? Slide the y axis all the way forward and remove the screws that hold the carriage to the delrin bushings. Slide the carriage back and see if the track is compacted with saw dust. It happens to my model 900 all the time.
Otherwise, the tight fit may be because the delrin bushing are so new that it actually has no play. Dynaglide is your friend. It will become very loose in about 40 hours of work.
----- Original Message ----- From: Sanat To: Legacy-Ornamental-Mills@googlegroups.com Sent: Thursday, June 18, 2009 6:53 PM
Subject: Model 1200
I recently bought a nearly new model 1200 ornamental mill from someone who had barely used it... so although it is not new most things have never been used or have been only used once or twice. The original owner told me that he made two things with the mill and was downsizing when he put the mill up for sale.
My question is that the "Y" axis seems very stiff when manually pushing or pulling the router assembly "front to back" or vice versa compared with the "X".axis which glides the full 6 foot length with minimum pressure exerted. .
Is this normal for the stiffness in the "Y" axis and does it eventually loosen up more freely in time with use?
The videos I have seem makes it look like the "Y" axis glides effortlessly. (especially the one making the tendon).
It seems that all pieces are assembled correctly and I have sprayed dynaglide to help it along but to very little improvement. Of course the "Y" axis screwlock is released when I attempt to manually move the assembly..
The machine does have the "Z" axis upgrade on it so the carrier is slightly different (looks bigger and no dust collector) as well as the template follower being different.
Any ideas or suggestions from the experienced users? Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
> I doubt this is the case, but is the y axis track full of saw dust? > Slide the y axis all the way forward and remove the screws that hold > the carriage to the delrin bushings. Slide the carriage back and see > if the track is compacted with saw dust. It happens to my model 900 > all the time.
> Otherwise, the tight fit may be because the delrin bushing are so new > that it actually has no play. Dynaglide is your friend. It will become > very loose in about 40 hours of work.
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