Re: Digest for INA-Nonsuch-Discussion-Group@googlegroups.com - 14 updates in 4 topics

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John Newell

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Mar 11, 2017, 7:59:06 PM3/11/17
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Ralph, the original equipment winches for the Nonsuch 26 was a Barient 8 for the mainsheet and a 19 for the halliard. On Mascouche they were both self tailing. My 8 was getting tired dealing with the main sheet so I retired it to the cabin top to replace a standard 8 used for reefing or choker. and got a good deal on an Andersen 28 to replace it. It is a super winch which is smooth as silk. I would not hesitate to use one for the halliard too.  

I believe you would find the 8 too light to use for the halliard and the original 19 is obsolete. Its parts impossible to find. I replaced mine with a Harken 42 when they were selling off the old model. It is way overkill, but it will outlast me. The first time I used it the effort was far more than the 19! I realised that I had refinished the cabin top and the camber was sufficient for the halliard to come into contact with it for a few inches when taught. It was a very effective brake. A second eye further aft solved the problem.

Cheers,

John Newell
Mascouche 26C 1
Toronto

On Sat, Mar 11, 2017 at 11:46 AM, <INA-Nonsuch-Di...@googlegroups.com> wrote:
Thor Powell Mariner's Cat V - 26C - North Channel <thor....@gmail.com>: Mar 10 10:42AM -0800

I have a Classic and yes the box the two golf carts take most of the
space. I don't have photos unfortunately. The box is on a shelf so the top
is about a foot down. There is space behind and aft but all I can get in
there is 6 20 inch fenders 4 flat foam fenders and the shore power cable.
The start battery is on the other side but the top is only about a foot off
the bottom so does not take much space.
 
The diodes will fool the regulator. One of the side effects of diodes is
that there is a voltage drop associated with them. This drop is not
constant and varies from around 0.6 volts to 1.1 volts depending upon how
much current is flowing through them. At very high charge currents the
voltage drop can actually be as much as 1.6 volts. The higher the current,
the higher the voltage drop. This means that the output voltage of your
alternator at say 14 volts is not being presented to the batteries. The
batteries will only be "seeing" between 12.9 and 13.4 volts depending upon
the charge rate. Obviously this drastically reduces charging capability.
The charge voltage on the batteries is simply too low.
 
AGM and gels are nice offer quick charge rates and flexible placement but
they remain expensive. I have used Trojan wet cell golf cart batteries
and for what do they have lasted 8 - 9 years. No refrigeration so they are
not heavily taxed. We need 10 to 15 days between full charging and so
far they have been fine. I use a 120 amp alternator with a separate
regulator that is restricts charging to no more than to 80 amps due to
the belt.
 
 
 
On Thursday, March 9, 2017 at 3:26:22 PM UTC-5, Tom Schoenhofer wrote:
Rick Oppegaard <rickop...@gmail.com>: Mar 10 11:36PM -0800

Hi Guys.
I have 4 6V house batteries and a 12v start battery in the stbd laz. of my
26C. It for sure takes up most of the room but I can still fit a few things
in there. I had to cut out the plywood that separates the laz into two
compartments, and build a stout platform to hold the batteries securely.
 
Rick.
84 26C
Puget Sound
Ralph Bush <ralph...@gmail.com>: Mar 10 11:07AM -0800

As previously mentioned; I am almost always sailing alone which makes sail
raising with the non self tailing winch a hassle. I find it difficult to
crank on the winch with one hand while maintaining pressure on the halyard
with the other all while attempting to stare upward to keep track of the
head of the sail. A self tailing halyard winch sure would be nice!
 
On the other hand; virtually all I use the self tailing feature of the
mainsheet winch for is to cleat it off once i have the sail trimmed. If I
want to sheet the sail in I don't crank on the winch; but luff up a bit and
pull the sheet in by hand.
 
It occurs to me that I should swap the halyard and sheet winches and get
the self tailing feature where I will actually use it. Has anyone else
done this, or have a reason why doing it would be a bad idea?
 
Thanks for any insights!
 
 
1983 N26C #104
 
“Hyggelig”
EYC, Toronto, ON
R D Young <rdyo...@me.com>: Mar 10 03:01PM -0500

Ralph, All the winches on our boat are self-tailing but years ago, in the maintenance section of the Nonsuch website, I saw a piece of equipment another owner had added to their boat which you might find useful. I think they called it an inside-out cam cleat. It’s a cam cleat mounted on the inside of a u-shaped bracket which mounts on the mast, about 8’ off the deck, with a single big hose clamp. With this bracket in place I can go to the mast and raise the sail hand over hand very quickly to within a foot or so of the black band. After each increment of halyard is hauled in, a slight outward/downward tug on the halyard secures it in the cam cleat, then you repeat until the sail is as high as you can get it by hand, return to the cockpit and use the winch just to tension the halyard. The final tensioning of the halyard pops the halyard out of the cam cleat. It works very well. If you can’t find this on the website or envision it from my description, let me know and I will see if I can find a picture of the one I made for our boat.
 
David Young
Bay Cat, 30U #402
Traverse City / Suttons Bay, MI
 
Ralph Bush <ralph...@gmail.com>: Mar 10 12:18PM -0800

Hi David;
 
I have seen this method used in the past. Since I sail alone most of the
time I make it my mission in life to leave the cockpit as little as
possible once I have left the dock - hence the purchase of a Nonsuch.
 
I can get my sail about 3/4 of the way up by hand, but then I have to
switch to the winch.
 
 
 
On Friday, March 10, 2017 at 2:07:49 PM UTC-5, Ralph Bush wrote:
R D Young <rdyo...@me.com>: Mar 10 04:03PM -0500

Even when sailing alone, I almost always raise sail at the mast because it is so much easier and faster to get the sail up from there. There is a ton of friction in the halyard path between the mast and the cockpit. In really rough conditions, I clip on when I leave the cockpit. I do everything else from the cockpit. Different strokes…
 
David Young
Bay Cat, 30U #402
Traverse City / Suttons Bay, MI
 
Peter Grabow <pke...@gmail.com>: Mar 10 09:30AM -0800

Hello Everyone!
 
I am adding panels to my dodger/bimini set-up to create a full enclosure on
my 30 Ultra. I have reviewed a number of photos of our boats and have
gleaned some good ideas (like the main-sheet winch chafe panel on
Persistence).
 
My question - for those with full enclosures, are you able to sail with the
enclosure in place?
My concern is the main-sheet damaging/rubbing the 'glass' on any tack where
the boom is forward of a close-reach...
As the main-sheet cuts across the corners of the combing when on beam-reach
or running, can you sail on these tacts with the enclosure in place? Or is
it not possible without damaging the 'glass'?
 
I am meeting tomorrow morning with my canvas person, so any
input/experience you may provide will be greatly appreciated!
 
Many thanks!,
Peter Grabow
S/V CAKEWALK III 30 Ultra 430 1987
Jersey City, NJ
R D Young <rdyo...@me.com>: Mar 10 01:28PM -0500

Peter, We’ve had a full cockpit enclosure for 8 years or so and sail with it all up several times each year without many problems. Our canvas encloses just the area within the cockpit coaming and we have a Cressman boom extension. This setup minimizes but doesn’t quite eliminate chafe on the enclosure when sailing off the wind. The biggest issue we have with ours is the main boom block and sheet chewing up the upper aft part of the bimini if we ease the choker too much when raising or dousing the sail, especially in rough seas.
 
If you spend much time on your boat, you’ll love the extra usable space an enclosure will provide you in inclement weather and soon learn to deal with any issues that may crop up. Good luck.
 
David Young
Bay Cat, 30U #402
Traverse City / Suttons Bay, MI
 
"Ed Brost" <ed.b...@gmail.com>: Mar 10 01:31PM -0500

We installed a full enclosure on SaSeaCat 3 seasons ago and sail with all the panels closed when the weather is bad (cold or raining) without problem.
 

 
We had a slit cut in the panel to allow the sheet to move to/from the winch and a sacrificial panel installed. The main area where there is rubbing is across the aft panel when on a run. That panel saw damage but not a hole until this year. We had it repaired and installed a sacrificial panel but I think it will wear through in a few years. We also have a boom extension to allow the sheet to clear the back of the Bimini but we still need some choker tension to clear the bimini.
 

 
At dock, we make sure the sheet is clear by adding a bit of choker before leaving the boat. We also have a sacrificial strip at that location.
 

 
We have windows in the bimini to allow clear view of the sail.
 

 
With those features we are snug as bugs sailing in inclement weather with all the panels installed.
 

 
…..Ed
 

 
Ed and Marlene Brost
 
SaSeaCat N30U 322
 
Sarnia Ontario
 

 

 

 
From: ina-nonsuch-discussion-group@googlegroups.com [mailto:ina-nonsuch-discussion-group@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Peter Grabow
Sent: March 10, 2017 12:30 PM
To: INA Nonsuch Discussion Group <INA-Nonsuch-Discussion-Group@googlegroups.com>
Subject: Sailing with full enclosure in place
 

 
Hello Everyone!
 
I am adding panels to my dodger/bimini set-up to create a full enclosure on my 30 Ultra. I have reviewed a number of photos of our boats and have gleaned some good ideas (like the main-sheet winch chafe panel on Persistence).
 
My question - for those with full enclosures, are you able to sail with the enclosure in place?
My concern is the main-sheet damaging/rubbing the 'glass' on any tack where the boom is forward of a close-reach...
As the main-sheet cuts across the corners of the combing when on beam-reach or running, can you sail on these tacts with the enclosure in place? Or is it not possible without damaging the 'glass'?
 
I am meeting tomorrow morning with my canvas person, so any input/experience you may provide will be greatly appreciated!
 
Many thanks!,
Peter Grabow
S/V CAKEWALK III 30 Ultra 430 1987
Jersey City, NJ
 
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Roger Mongeau <roger.m...@gmail.com>: Mar 10 01:38PM -0500

Hello Peter,
 
With my NS22, when the boom is forward of a close-reach, I need to remove the two aft panels and release the rear of the side panels to prevent the main-sheet from rubbing too much.
 
Roger Mongeau
NS22 #27
27 Celcius
Magog, Canada
 
Thor Powell Mariner's Cat V - 26C - North Channel <thor....@gmail.com>: Mar 10 10:55AM -0800

We have no issues at all with our Genco bimmini/dodger sailing with is
fully up, however I dislike sailing that way as I like to feel the wind. We
will sail with the front window removed all the time as well . So there is
a progression to it, first the front window goes in and that cuts the cold
wind, then the top bimmini to dodger window if it is raining then the rest
if need be.
 
One thing is we have to watch it when we reef as we need to hoist the
topping lift or it will hit the aft bimini bar.
 
We use the full enclosure all summer at anchor when it rains. To avoid
putting up the 6 pieces just keep bugs out Debbie has fashioned a massive
screen that goes over the dodger and bimini. Small weights hold it in
place. We have sailed with this as well and it often cuts the wind just
enough to make it pleasant.
 
Stows in a bag the size of a basketball, Takes 2 minutes to put up or take
down . If anyone is interested I can get Debbie to make up a list of
materials and instructions.
 
T
 
 
 
 

 
On Friday, March 10, 2017 at 12:30:01 PM UTC-5, Peter Grabow wrote:
Doug <dsanfo...@gmail.com>: Mar 10 11:49AM -0800

Peter, As a former owner of a 30C I have attached a photo showing the
enclosure that was on my boat 16 years ago. We could sail with the
enclosure up and it was nice in cold weather and rain.
 
<https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-oz-TLWSv6iY/WMMC16jfH7I/AAAAAAAAAIo/2xeH3Y7-SC0gNElYBDKUffqp4NGEV4FlwCLcB/s1600/Enclosure.JPG>
Doug
 
On Friday, March 10, 2017 at 12:30:01 PM UTC-5, Peter Grabow wrote:
caped...@gmail.com: Mar 10 11:56AM -0800

That would be most appreciated. Thank you and thanks to Debbie too!
Tim In STL
 
On Friday, March 10, 2017 at 12:55:06 PM UTC-6, Thor Powell Mariner's Cat V
- 26C - North Channel wrote:
Jim in NVa <cosg...@verizon.net>: Mar 10 09:39AM -0800

I would order the bumpers and rivets from Mike, but he's away until April
and I'd like to replace the bumpers before FATE splashes in a couple of
weeks while the wishbone is down on the deck. Looks like dock fender
material. Has anyone replaced their bumpers with material other than from
Mike and, if so, what did you use?
 
Thanks,
 
Jim Cosgrove
FATE 30U #343
Galesville, MD
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