Dry Hopping - Bellingham Homebrewers Guild

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Message from discussion Dry Hopping
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From: Todd Quessenberry <t...@quessenberry.com>
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Subject: Re: Dry Hopping
Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2012 15:42:15 -0800
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For whatever it's worth, my process for dry hopped beers generally looks =
something like:

Start primary ferment @ 62F, slowly raise to 68F by day 5.
Somewhere between days 7 and 10, rack to secondary, add dry hops (loose =
pellets), purge carboy w/ CO2, keep holding @ 68F.
After ~5 days on hops, drop temp to 30F for a day or two to crash yeast =
and hops.
Package.

But most of my beers are malty or sour and not dry hopped, so what do I =
know ;).

Todd

On Nov 5, 2012, at 6:38 PM, Jesse Nickerson <jessenicker...@gmail.com> =
wrote:

> Kable - I have carbonated in the first keg but that is keeping it cold =
(to make the CO2 for soluble and the reason for doing the next transfer =
under counter pressure (i.e. into a pressurized keg.) If you prefer to =
keep the beer warm while dry hopping it might be tough to simultaneously =
carbonate. I do think the advantage of transferring into a CO2 purged =
vessel STILL makes this a good choice.
>=20
> Gary - in terms of the concern over the secondary I see where you're =
coming from. I tell people at the shop my opinion on secondary =
fermentation quite a bit:....
> It will, without a doubt in my mind, make virtually every beer better. =
 For some beers, it's close to a requirement (high OG beers like barley =
wines and imperial insert-style-here type beers.) For most though, we're =
talking about fairly subtle improvements at the risk of major flaws =
(contamination and oxidation.) SOooooooo, if you can do it gently and =
sanitarilly, you should. If you're not sure (or not feeling like doing =
it - I fall into that "lazy" category too sometimes) then the beer may =
be better off with an extended primary.
>=20
> The cool thing about the technique I was describing is that many of us =
keg our finished beers anyway. So, its really of no extra concern =
sanitation-wise and all but eliminates the risk of oxidation until the =
beer is completely drank.
>=20
> Oh yeah...pellets... My brew kettle uses a little bazooka screen =
covered pick up tube that clogs like crazy with pellets and no steeping =
bags. So, generally I use whole leaf hops exclusively (unless there's a =
variety I can only get as pellets.) For dry hopping though, I feel like =
pellet hops are more processed than whole leafs and as a result will =
inevitably fall short on delicate characteristics such as aromatics. So, =
though they can be harder to cram into a carboy neck and might soak up a =
more measurable amount of your precious beer, I think they're the better =
choice for dry hopping. That being said, almost every commercial brewery =
 uses pellets (even for dry hopping.) I think it's more for logistical =
and cost concerns though.  I'd be interested to hear what pro brewers =
thought of strictly the quality of pellets vs whole leaf for dry =
hopping...
>=20
> Jesse
>=20
> On Mon, Nov 5, 2012 at 4:35 PM, Gary Hardwick =
<gary.hardw...@gmail.com> wrote:
> I can't imagine temperature changes over a short period having that =
great of an effect. The end product will be consumed in a few weeks =
anyway so oxidation and other off flavors due to aging wouldn't be of =
much concern to me. Oxidation and contamination due to racking into a =
secondary is a concern, hence why I don't do it. (on top of being lazy)=20=

>=20
> When I bottle beer I ferment at 62-64ish, cold crash, bottle, =
condition at 70 for 2-3 weeks, chill to 36-40ish for a week, and then =
drink. I haven't noticed any off flavors due to those swings.=20
>=20
>=20
> On Mon, Nov 5, 2012 at 2:09 PM, Justin Bajema <justinbaj...@gmail.com> =
wrote:
> I've been dry hopping in the keg.  I throw the hops in a bag, rack the =
beer into the keg with the hops, and hook up to CO2 and put in the =
fridge.  I don't bother to remove the hops from the keg.  As I =
understand it, the risk of extracting vegetal flavors from the hops is =
much lower at lower temperatures.  And you get to see how the hop aroma =
changes over the couple weeks that the beer is on tap.
> =20
> - Justin
>=20
>=20


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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html =
charset=3Diso-8859-1"></head><body style=3D"word-wrap: break-word; =
-webkit-nbsp-mode: space; -webkit-line-break: after-white-space; ">For =
whatever it's worth, my process for dry hopped beers generally looks =
something like:<div><br></div><div>Start primary ferment @ 62F, slowly =
raise to 68F by day 5.</div><div>Somewhere between days 7 and 10, rack =
to secondary, add dry hops (loose pellets), purge carboy w/ CO2, keep =
holding @ 68F.</div><div>After ~5 days on hops, drop temp to 30F for a =
day or two to crash yeast and =
hops.</div><div>Package.</div><div><br></div><div>But most of my beers =
are malty or sour and not dry hopped, so what do I know =
;).</div><div><br></div><div>Todd</div><div><br><div><div>On Nov 5, =
2012, at 6:38 PM, Jesse Nickerson &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:jessenicker...@gmail.com">jessenicker...@gmail.com</a>&gt; =
wrote:</div><br class=3D"Apple-interchange-newline"><blockquote =
type=3D"cite">Kable - I have carbonated in the first keg but that is =
keeping it cold (to make the CO2 for soluble and the reason for doing =
the next transfer under counter pressure (i.e. into a pressurized keg.) =
If you prefer to keep the beer warm while dry hopping it might be tough =
to simultaneously carbonate. I do think the advantage of transferring =
into a CO2 purged vessel STILL makes this a good choice.<div>
<br></div><div>Gary - in terms of the concern over the secondary I see =
where you're coming from. I tell people at the shop my opinion on =
secondary fermentation quite a bit:....</div><div>It will, without a =
doubt in my mind, make virtually every beer better. &nbsp;For some =
beers, it's close to a requirement (high OG beers like barley wines and =
imperial insert-style-here type beers.) For most though, we're talking =
about fairly subtle improvements at the risk of major flaws =
(contamination and oxidation.) SOooooooo, if you can do it gently and =
sanitarilly, you should. If you're not sure (or not feeling like doing =
it - I fall into that "lazy" category too sometimes) then the beer may =
be better off with an extended primary.</div>
<div><br></div><div>The cool thing about the technique I was describing =
is that many of us keg our finished beers anyway. So, its really of no =
extra concern sanitation-wise and all but eliminates the risk of =
oxidation until the beer is completely drank.</div>
<div><br></div><div>Oh yeah...pellets... My brew kettle uses a little =
bazooka screen covered pick up tube that clogs like crazy with pellets =
and no steeping bags. So, generally I use whole leaf hops exclusively =
(unless there's a variety I can only get as pellets.) For dry hopping =
though, I feel like pellet hops are more processed than whole leafs and =
as a result will inevitably fall short on delicate characteristics such =
as aromatics. So, though they can be harder to cram into a carboy neck =
and might soak up a more measurable amount of your precious beer, I =
think they're the better choice for dry hopping. That being said, almost =
every commercial brewery &nbsp;uses pellets (even for dry hopping.) I =
think it's more for logistical and cost concerns though. &nbsp;I'd be =
interested to hear what pro brewers thought of strictly the quality of =
pellets vs whole leaf for dry hopping...</div>
<div><br></div><div>Jesse<br><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote">On Mon, Nov =
5, 2012 at 4:35 PM, Gary Hardwick <span dir=3D"ltr">&lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:gary.hardw...@gmail.com" =
target=3D"_blank">gary.hardw...@gmail.com</a>&gt;</span> wrote:<br>
<blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 =
.8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">I can't imagine =
temperature changes over a short period having that great of an effect. =
The end product will be consumed in a few weeks anyway so oxidation and =
other off flavors due to aging wouldn't be of much concern to me. =
Oxidation and contamination due to racking into a secondary is a =
concern, hence why I don't do it. (on top of being lazy)&nbsp;<div>

<br></div><div>When I bottle beer I ferment at 62-64ish, cold crash, =
bottle, condition at 70 for 2-3 weeks, chill to 36-40ish for a week, and =
then drink. I haven't noticed any off flavors due to those =
swings.&nbsp;</div><div class=3D"HOEnZb">
<div class=3D"h5"><div class=3D"gmail_extra">
<br><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote">On Mon, Nov 5, 2012 at 2:09 PM, =
Justin Bajema <span dir=3D"ltr">&lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:justinbaj...@gmail.com" =
target=3D"_blank">justinbaj...@gmail.com</a>&gt;</span> =
wrote:<br><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 =
.8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">

<div>I've been dry hopping in the keg.&nbsp; I throw the hops in a bag, =
rack the beer into the keg with the hops, and hook up to CO2 and put in =
the fridge.&nbsp; I don't bother to remove the hops from the keg.&nbsp; =
As I understand it, the risk of extracting vegetal flavors from the hops =
is much lower at lower temperatures.&nbsp; And you get to see how the =
hop aroma changes over the couple weeks that the beer is on tap.</div>

<span><font color=3D"#888888">

<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>- Justin</div>
</font></span></blockquote></div><br></div>
</div></div></blockquote></div><br></div>
</blockquote></div><br></div></body></html>=

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