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Small new/old site in the San Gabriels (Los Angeles)

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Mkword

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Mar 3, 2000, 3:00:00 AM3/3/00
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I've been hiking the front range of the San Gabriels for a few years now
looking for a decent bouldering site ... but all the granite up there is pretty
crappy. I've climbed at Stony Point, Malibu and Williamson for a number of
years, but I always fantasized about something pretty close to my door in
Pasadena.

Well, I found it. Not *it*. But a close enough *it*.

Three miles of hiking on a fireroad brings you to an outcropping. Above it,
there is a decent bouldering traverse on a separate outcropping with many
vertical problems waiting for the brave. But below, on a different, bigger
outcropping is a decent top-roping site. For the overly ambitious, yes, it
could be bolted for lead climbing. But the routes are short (20-40ft) and
there's nothing that hard there.

Yet, the north side sports some long easy routes and a shorter wall offers what
appears to be two or three thin face routes in the 5.10 to 5.11 range -- on
pretty solid rock. On the south side, there are a few other lines as well.
The bottom section of the south face is amazingly Gunks-like in color, texture
and features -- but easy in the 5.4 - 5.6 range. The upper sections of the
south wall offer some overhangs and roofs, though short. These sections are
more like boulder problems that require a top rope as they are 30-40 feet off
the deck.

My reason for posting this is ...

I was wondering if anyone has climbed at this site before.

There are three bolts in the top pinnacle of the outcropping (now chopped).
Plus a 1/4" Rawls on a 5.5 route on the north side. Clearly, people have
climbed here, but not for some time.

It seems like with some imagination all these routes can be TRed without
drilling new bolts, but the natural anchor points are pretty skimpy. At least
a bit below the level I like to climb on.

Has anyone climber here recently (last five years or so)?

If anyone is interested in reinstating the TR bolts ...

-Nick

"The interesting point about Hollywood's writers of talent is not how few or
how many they are, but how little of worth their talent is allowed to achieve."


-Raymond Chandler

Rex Pieper

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Mar 3, 2000, 3:00:00 AM3/3/00
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mkw...@aol.comxspam wrote:

>My reason for posting this is ...
>
>I was wondering if anyone has climbed at this site before.

>Has anyone climber here recently (last five years or so)?

Not exactly sure where you're talking about...I did find a small boulder at the
end of the road to Mt. Lowe, but this sounds different.

>If anyone is interested in reinstating the TR bolts ...

Sure...I'm 13 min. west of Pasadena...give me a shout if you want to
play tour guide.

-Rex Pieper

remove ".XSPAM" from signature to reply

Andy

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Mar 3, 2000, 3:00:00 AM3/3/00
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<< Sure...I'm 13 min. west of Pasadena...give me a shout if you want to play
tour guide >>

How about the Eagle Rock area. Any routes on "the Rock"?


Andy

These are my opinions and I couldn't care less if my employers disagree

Rex Pieper

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Mar 3, 2000, 3:00:00 AM3/3/00
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as...@aol.comxnospamx (Andy) wrote:

>How about the Eagle Rock area. Any routes on "the Rock"?

Yes, if you like old 1/4" bolts placed in conglomerate rock and
climbing illegally...

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